R1: Dear Christi, You can put a bullnose on almost any rock type, including Dakota Mahogany. But are you sure that you want to use this granite for kitchen tops! And why tiles rather than slab??? Have a good look at the quality of the surface at the right angle for reflections - there are a number of minerals in this granite which tend to pit. Dr. Hans, Australia

R3: We just remodeled our kitchen and had granite installed on countertops and an island that is . We purchased slabs that were 5' X 10'. Our island was done with one solid piece. There should be a supplier who carries large slabs, but it also depends on the particular pattern you choose. Some patterns only come in certain size slabs. Good luck. Carolyn, USA

R1: Dear Sabrina, It is partly true that 8 x 5 is getting close to the upper limits of many commercial granite slabs. However, in a well-stocked slab yard with slabs that have been gang-sawn you should find some granite slabs that are slightly longer (9ft) and up to 6 ft high. There are a number of considerations here that you should be aware of. When granite blocks of that size are quarried there are serious weight limitations in lifting machinery at the quarry, lifting machinery at the processing plant, and for transport. A block of that size can approach 16 - 20 tons depending on its composition (and width). There are also limitations as to the length and height of blocks for some processing plants. Having said that find a granite that you like, the quarry, and ask them for details of their block sizes and for processors who might have the right equipment to cut blocks of longer length. Some of the granite blocks that I quarry to order are up to 3.5m long but then only one processor has the saw that can process it. I was recently asked to quarry an obelisk 10 meters long with a base of 1.5m. No problem, but the lifting and processing logistics were too much. Dr. Hans, Australia 

R1: Dear Stephanie: When I say borderline I mean "my" borderline! Many say that I am my own worst customer! St. Cecilia, if treated with the right sealer in the right way is going to be an enjoyable choice.
Why do I define it borderline? Well, because, unfortunately, even the best impregnator / sealers are just as good as the operator who applies them, and St. Cecilia is one of those stone that needs a caring and knowledgeable professional to do the job right. Let me give an example: At a certain point in time one of my best dealers discontinued buying the sealer that I make. I asked him if there were any problems and he candidly told me that he had a 
problem selling it because the back label of the can recommended to wait for at least 24 hours between application (St. Cecilia would need between 3 to 4 applications), and the contractors buying the product didn't like the idea to go back to the same place for two or three days in a row to seal a piece of stone! So, my dealer decided to carry another product from the competition. Can that particular product be used differently? Of course not: Every single stone sealer under the sun has to be applied with an interval of at least 24 hours in between applications, but the manufacturer of that particular product was clearly a better salesman that I, and wrote on the directions that the following applications could be done after only half an hour. And THAT, even if it's a lie, would fit the schedules of the contractors better than my product! Now, do you understand what borderline means in my book? Maurizio, USA

R1: Dear Mary: True geological granite is either white, or light gray (the Italian Bianco Sardo -- a.k.a. "Luna Pearl", or Grigio Sardo), or pinkish (The Spanish Rosa Porrino). There are a few domestic ones, out of New England, still in the whitish and light gray hue. Its porosity is medium (twice as much as the average marble) and it can be easily kept under control with a good-quality impregnator sealer. Many other light colored "granites" are in fact quite absorbent and not suitable -- at least in my book -- in a kitchen environment.
To find out if a "granite" is very porous at the yard, walk through it holding a cup of water in your hands. When you see a stone that grabs you, go there and rub some of the water on its surface. If you see that it gets dark right away ... away you go! Maurizio, USA 

R1: Dear Lenore: GO FOR IT!! Blue Pearl -- an Anorthosite from Norway -- is a stone that for all the intents and purposes of a kitchen countertop is much better than geological granite, not to mention its unmatchable beauty. It's actually one of the best material available for the purpose: quite dense and needs no sealing. Not 
now, not ever. Just enjoy it!! Maurizio, USA

R1: Dear Kathryn: Forget about the "you MAY be sorry" thing. You WILL be sorry, period, end of story, no debate and shut up!! :-)
There's no such a thing like a better black "granite". And as far as the finger marks, etc. thing goes, no sealer can prevent those. Impregnator/sealers for stone (which are not recommendable with black "granite" to begin with) only help preventing inbedded stains, not surface stains. That's the very reason why hone-finished black "granite" will drive you insane!
The only possibility to minimize the problem is to have a color enhancer applied to the countertop. This will turn the surface of the stone from gray to permanently black, but still with no shine. Maurizio, USA

R1: Dear Christy: While I never heard of this "Emser Antique White Travertine" if it is travertine and it's finished with a matt finish (honed), then you shouldn't worry too much about it's maintenance requirement. Of the three statements proffered to you by your contractor, only one is correct, namely that travertine scratches relatively easy (not any more, however, than all marbles and compact limestone). In fact, it's not very porous; contrary to popular misconception the scientific truth is that it's a stone which is just as dense as most compact limestone (which in turn are denser than marble). As far as the idea that it breaks easy is concerned, it shouldn't happen if they executed the installation properly. If the installation is not well executed, even ceramic or granite will break.
The application of the color enhancer did not hurt your stone, but won't do much good to it in terms of protection. The right intelligence about its daily maintenance will go a much longer way than the application of a color enhancer. But it doesn't seem to me like they gave you much of that, did they! Maurizio, USA  

R1: Dear Deborah: I am one of the fiercest advocates against the use of marble in a kitchen as a material for a countertop. However, there's nothing wrong with using marble in a kitchen.
So, now, what's the story here?! ...Well, there's nothing wrong for as long as one accepts the idea that their White Carrara marble (or any other marble, for that matter), will end up looking like the one of your grandpa's bakery, that is, all stained, scratched, worn down and beat up!
It's not the case with the vast majority of the American and North European consumers, to whom even the smallest blemish represents a major issue. In consideration of the preponderant general scenario, marble is certainly not the right choice for a kitchen, but if you accept it for what it is and -- most importantly -- for what it will get to look over years of intensive use, then there's no law that says the you can't use it. Of course, you'll want it with a hone finish (not polished, that is) like your grandpa's. To minimize staining you will also want to consider having it sealed with a good-quality impregnator / sealer for stone. Hone-finished marble is more absorbent that its polished counterpart. Maurizio, USA 

R1: Dear Stuart: As you probably know, Ceasarstone (Which to the best of my knowledge is not available in the US) is a so-called "engineered stone," which is a fancy name for manmade (94% granite chips mixed with 6% epoxy resin, if memory serves me right). Wearability wise is comparable to "granite." It does not need to be sealed, but, due to the presence of the resin, I don't think that's as heat-resistent as "granite." I personally like "granite" better, providing that one can choose the right one. Maurizio, USA 

R1: Dear Brenda: Either your friend never cooks, or she has a low-hone-finished travertine in her kitchen floor. There are no other options. If you like it polished, then the salespeople are 100% right and your friend 100% wrong. By the way, they make more money when they sell stone, than when they sell tiles! Maurizio, USA

R1: Dear Renee: . Go read the issue about selecting a good fabrication facility (and stone) and see if it can help you decide to buy natural stone over engineered one. Maurizio, USA

R1: Dear Susan: I'm afraid that you didn't read our "excellent site" long and hard enough. If 
you did, you would have never considered black granite with a hone finish!! If you can get out of the contract, do so! If you can't, apply the color enhancer and no sealer. Yes, it will become black, but at least it will be almost manageable, maintenance wise. You can't have both ways! Maurizio, USA

R1: Dear Esther: If I were you I'd move out of Vancouver, BC and go somewhere else where you will make sure that nobody carries that stone. Maurizio, USA

R1: The question regarding suitability, is that with the addition of an impregnator that product would be fine for a kitchen. Regarding your other questions, there is not a general rule that can be applied except that when represented as a % any granite that is .12 or less is low absorbency, .12-.23 medium and .23-.34 on the upper edge of absorbency that could be managed with properly applied and maintained impregnator. Most stones that are suitable for a kitchen application are going to contain felsic and mafic minerals. Steven, USA

R2: Dear Karen: The answer could be a variety of stones, but the ones that comes to my mind would be hone-finished beige marble (Crema Marfil, Botticino), or Travertine (contrary to popular misconception, travertine is a quite dense stone), still with a hone-finish. The application of a good-quality stone impregnator is advisable to help eliminate the (though naturally limited) absorbency factor. In most cases 1 application of a stone impregnator for non-porous stones will do plenty.
Keep in mind, however, that the typical hone-finish delivered by the factories and / or fabrication facilities is a "medium" hone, which means that there's still a certain degree of shine. This finish will get damaged by acidic spills (lemonade, orange juice, vinegar, tomato sauce, salad dressing, etc., through a loooong list!) or by the use of wrong cleaning agents. Such surface damages will appear in the form of duller spot that look like "water stains", or "water rings". Of course, they are neither. They are marks of corrosion left behind by the acids, and no sealer could help preventing them, because they are related exclusively to the chemical makeup of the stone, not it's porosity. A low-hone-finish (totally flat, with no sheen whatever) is therefore recommended. The damages will still occur, but wouldn't be visible. To obtain that, either the fabricator knows how to do it with the honing elements available at their shop, or the surface could be acid washed with a mild solution of water and muratic acid (available at any hardware store). Maurizio, USA

A 1884: Please tell me more about travertine in the kitchen as a counter--is there any useful substitute?? I love the look, Guthire, May 15.

R1: Dear Guthire, Why not look at a fine-grained beige-coloured granite instead - something like Brisbane Beige. It should be available in parts of the US. Dr. Hans, Australia  

R1: Dear Darlene: As far as the trendy thing is concerned, to the best of my knowledge 
"granite" has been trendy since the Ancient Romans, that is since mankind  learned how to quarry it. I believe it's safe to say that it's going to be trendy for at least another 2,500 years!! Maurizio, USA

A 1816: Hi- I am reading the posted questions on problems with stains on granite kitchen countertops. Is there one type or color most resistant or better choice than other? I am debating whether or not it is worth the expense to install granite vs formica. Darlene, May 14.

A 1805: We asked our builder to put granite counter top in our new house after looking at the sample in design center. Later we found out the granite that builder installed in the kitchen has totally different color and pattern, nothing looks like the sample. Although we understand there may have some variations, we still feel very disappointed. And we are not sure how to talk to the builder? Would you please give us some suggestions? Jun, May 14.

A 1802:At what temperature will a granite countertop crack, Benusa, May 14.

R1: Dear Benusa: It much depends from the thickness of the granite. In the case of a 2cm slab it will probably take a few thousands degree Farenheit. If it is "granite" instead (which is approximately 98% of the instances), it's anybody guess. I still wouldn't worry about it. Maurizio, USA 

R2: Recognize that black when honed is gray. Now every time it gets wet or oil hits it it will be black there. Does it hurt the stone? NO. Does it drive consumers batty? It appears so.
Steven, USA

A 1786: After reading advice on your website, I can see that I have to choose the 'granite' for my kitchen countertops carefully. Some quarries publish the ASTM test results, but what values of absorption by weight, hardness and flexural strength would be considered 'excellent', 'good', 'satisfactory' or 'poor' for kitchen countertop? Neil May 14.

A 1760: I would like to have countertops in my new kitchen like the countertops of high school chemistry days. I understand that to be honed slate. What can I expect in terms of care (the problems seem to be in NOT using impregnators, waxes, etc.) and how does honed slate compare in performance and cost (installed) to other popular solid-surface materials such as granite, marble, Corian and soapstone? Patty, April 25.

R1: Well the slate requires more maintenance. I remember that our chemistry labs actually had soapstone. I find this material easier to have than slate. Cost wise I think a New England slate is comparable in cost to soapstone. The problem is probably more correctly identified as slate is softer than other natural stones used in a kitchen setting. Steven, USA  

R2: There are certainly drawbacks to any type of countertop material but granite is definitely the most durable product of them all. While it is true that oils have an impact on granite I would not call it a discoloration. Oils in general, whether from cooking or from your own skin will darken the stone. This can be minimized, but not eliminated, with the use of a good penetrating sealer. Lynn, USA

A 1739: Hello, we are remodeling our kitchen and we are a bit confused to what materials to use for the countertop. We LOVE the look of granite yet we are not sure about the care - staining, scratching, etc. Can you advise what is the best for looks, care, and resale? Mary, April 20.

R1: The looks of granite are not the only selling point. It is the most durable of all the products available. Staining and scratching should be of minor concern. The lighter granites will darken when exposed to oils from hands or cooking but generally this is over a period of time. This can be minimized by using a good penetrating sealer. Scratching should not be a concern in that the only material harder than granite is diamonds. You can, in fact, dull your knife by cutting on a granite countertop. If there is a disadvantage to using granite it is that it is VERY hard. Dropping a glass or dish will guarantee breakage. There are also design limitations because fabrication requires specialized tools and makes features in solid surface impossible to reproduce in granite. Lynn, USA  

R1: The one you like the best and fits your lifestyle. Steven, USA  

R1: Some stones require impregnators others don't. Select what appeals to you then use the absorption test listed on this website to test. Steven, USA

R1: The wear and tear you associate with normal use would also affect the products you describe. The key to the equation is matching expectations with specific products. When it comes to counters, consumers, or stone there is not a "one size fits all" policy that will succeed. Rather the kitchen should be tailored specifically to the person or family using it. 
Steven, USA  

R1: The linear measure is the running 12" divided unit typically used to derive front edge and sink pricing. Steven, USA 

R4: Definitely not a good choice for counter top, mainly for two reasons :-
1) Not possible to have stone polished enough/not hard enough.
2) Gets dirty very quickly and difficult to clean because surface not smooth. a) Gets stained easily and when liquids spilt on it, they are absorbed very easily. A.Vaziri. 

R2: It depends on where the counter is. In a kitchen, it would deteriorate and stain. In a bath or as a display counter it, could be fine. Steven, USA

A 1702: I have friends with granite countertops that stain and mar easily, and know others with counters that seem pretty impervious. I want the least porous toughest granite I can get, and don't care a whole lot about color. Advice please. Adrienne, April 14.

R1: Dear Adrienne, go back to your friends who had the seemingly impervious granite and ask them what it is and what they think of its performance. Odds on it would be a dark granite - dark grey, black or dark red. Blacks tend to be the softest of the three, dark red the hardest. It is difficult to scratch the dark red varieties and there are quite a few around. Check them out on Findstone. (Dr. Hans), Australia

R1: Dear Yvonne: I hope is not too late! Do NOT, I repeat, do NOT even think about honed black granite!! It's not porous, but troublesome aplenty it is!! Polished black "granite" -- if you can live with the shine -- is very, very, VERY enjoyable, and easy to maintain if you use the right products! Maurizio, USA 

R3: Dear Dan: I personally like the real thing better (but then again, I'm a hard-core stone guy), but I can fully appreciate your concerns about maintenance issues, mostly -- but not limited to -- related to the degree of absorbency of the different "granites."   Maurizio, USA

R1: I am a granite fabricator and owner of a small shop. With all that said, the bottom line is that beauty is in the eye of the beholder and that there are pros and cons for all surfaces. What I recommend to my clients is to take large pieces of the surfaces they are contemplating and simply put them in their home and use and abuse at will. One of the surfaces will eventually draw the homeowners to it. Garner, USA. 

R1: Dear Michelle: If you don't like the polished look of granite, stay away from it. Honed granite is NOT OK! Maurizio, USA

R1: Dear Eric: Are you talking to me?  Maurizio, USA  

R1: The absorption of Corian is not bad. Its ability to be stained is high though. The answer for both is it depends on the color you choose. Try the absorption (lemon juice test to test the granite). As a natural stone site we will have a bias in that direction however. Steven, USA  

R1: Dear Pam: Ceasar stone is a very enjoyable material, but for all I know is not much cheaper than natural granite (at least not here in NE of the US).   Maurizio, USA

R1: Dear Jackie: As far as your "granite" counter top goes,   For your soapstone top you need to use mineral oil. Maurizio, USA  

R2: Dear John: Yes, I can. Despite what some salesman will try to say to you, DON'T. Maurizio, USA

A 1548: We are looking at granite slabs for our kitchen and are becoming increasingly frustrated by the process. We don't seem to be able to get a straight answer from anyone. It is almost as if we have encountered some secret society! Our original granite choice (Blue Lorenzo, Blue Volga and who knows how many other names it goes by-) was estimated at $11,000 by the fabricator working with our kitchen designer. It was suggested we choose a less expensive piece of granite, yet when I asked for a cost breakdown of the estimate, I was told that the fabricators did not break down the cost of the materials from the cost of the actual fabrication. Furthermore, when I went to several of the wholesale showrooms to look for "less expensive" pieces of granite, I was told they could not give out granite prices and that we should a fabricator. 
Are fabrication costs linked to the specific granite slab? Do more expensive granite slabs cost more to fabricate? Can you recommend alternative granites to Blue Volga that are less expensive? 
Am I unrealistic in asking for a cost breakdown? I know the granite itself is not that pricey-that between landing on the dock and reaching my countertop there are a number of mark ups-I just want to be sure that the prices I am paying are legitimate and appropriate. Kathey, March 17,

R4: Kathey: You have picked a beautiful but very expensive granite for your countertops. As a fabricator, I can tell you that the labor prices do not vary by material, it is the material cost that varies. Granites that I buy from China are a fraction of the cost of those that come from Russia or Norway. It is not customary to provide a customer with a breakdown of their estimate as this provides them the opportunity to shop this around with other fabricators. As long as you are comparing apples to apples when seeking bids, then you should get good estimates. I must admit that $11,000 sounds high but that could well be because you are in a market that does not have enough fabricators to keep them pricing competitively. There are many granites that may please you and perhaps you should pick several and get prices on all. One that you may like that is less expensive is Emerald Pearl. Another option for less expensive material is to opt for 2cm instead of 3cm.thickness It is generally about 30% cheaper. Good luck. Lynn, USA

R2: From what I understand prices of granite depend greatly on shipping. ex. India, Brazil, Canada, etc. Marmar, USA. 

A 1531: I just found on the internet a company which claims that Jerusalem stone is LESS porous than limestone and GOOD for countertops??!! Also other internet references led me to believe this. Are there different types? Fisher. March 13.

R1: Dear Fisher: I'm glad to see you were skeptical. It's a lie. You do NOT want Jerusalem stone -- or any other limestone, for that matter -- as a countertop natural for your kitchen. Porosity is not the issue, the natural chemical makeup of all limestones and marbles (Calcite) is, and there's no product on the market (sealers of what-have-you) that can overcome the problem related to calcite-based stones (sensitivity to pH active substances.) Maurizio, USA

R3: Madeline: We are a fabricator that has begun importing granite with a "new" finish we are calling Venezian. Instead of the slabs being processed with a polished finish they acquire a slight texture and have a matte finish. The texture resembles a rock that has been underwater for some time and the softer aspects have gradually washed away. It has a rather smooth feel. As for maintenance, it requires regular sealing as most granites do. If you are working with a fabricator now, talk with them about finding a source for this finish.
Lynn, USA

R1: Try Cypress Wood Counter tops - My mother had them and absolutely loved them they were rustic yet beautiful and very functional - Polyurethane works wonders. Skip the stone and go for the wood. I am telling you this even though we install granite counter tops. Rebecca, USA. 

R3: Marjorie: Rebecca is correct, it is whatever you prefer. We have a fabrication shop which use 2cm almost exclusively. The market, in general, has gone to 3cm but I believe that is driven by designers and fabricators unwilling to work with the thinner granite slabs. 2cm material is about 30% cheaper if that has any bearing in the matter. Under mount sinks look great and, in fact, I have this in my kitchen and love it. Lynn, USA 

R1: The preferred thickness for granite counter tops is whatever you prefer. Any of the thickness should be very adequate. Rebecca, USA

A 1500: We just purchased a builder's model house which has honed granite countertops. The builder told us the honed finish makes fingerprints less visible. I would actually prefer a more glossy and vivid appearance (the way the countertops look when they are wet), but do appreciate the fingerprint aspect since we have four children. I do not know what kind of granite this is, but it is overall gunmetal gray in appearance, with dark taupe and black grains.
My questions: - What are the pros and cons of a honed finish? 
-The builder did not mention anything about sealing. Would a sealer be able to make the surface a bit shinier? Or a polish?
- If the surface is not sealed, will it gradually get duller and duller?
- Does granite normally require periodic resurfacing? For countertops, typically how often? 
Thanks for any help you can give. Pat, March 7, Reply

R2: Dear Pat: If it is Charcoal Gray like it sounds, you don't need to have it sealed. The stone absorbs just about nothing. The finish that you have now will never change and it WILL represent a maintenance nightmare (despite what the builder tells you). All types of surface stains (that no sealer would eliminate), including finger prints will be very obvious and a constant eyesore. I would try to have a color enhancer applied to it (after testing).  Maurizio, USA

Thanks for responding. Are you saying that the honed finish is what will cause the maintenance nightmare? If so, is it possible to have someone come in and refinish the granite to a more glossy surface (as our builder suggested)?  Pat, Reply 

R4: If it is a granite, you will have no problem with orange juice are acids, only oil and fat. If the counter top is by placement not the right one you can always say you don't like this and send it back before placement. Tiledoc,

R2: Trust me, you will not need to do the lemon juice test on granite. There is nothing that will damage the finish of polished granite. The finish is achieved with diamond impregnated polishing pads since diamonds are the only thing harder than granite. Red wine, citrus acid, etc will have no effect on granite. Marble is another matter entirely. All of the colors you mentioned are perfectly suited for kitchen use. Did you know that the only product which harbors less bacteria is stainless steel? So much for the solid surface industry claiming that it is porous and breeds bacteria. As for you question regarding pits or pores...we purchase epoxy or resin treated UbaTuba for cosmetic reasons only. There are usually hairline fissures in this material and the treatment will disguise that. Structurally, this material is more than adequate. Also, I do not know what area of the country you are in but you might want to do some more shopping for granite. $8,000 sounds high. Good luck. Lynn, USA

R1: Insist upon viewing the slab. I was in the same situation with the builder of our home. Find out who they are purchasing the granite through & call them. I insisted upon knowing who they were using as a fabricator. (I found out I paid for the fab, the installer, the sales
guy to the builder, & the builder!!!!!) I could have cut out two middlemen - the sales guy & the builder!!! But, then I wanted the builders warranty (not just for counters, but cabinets, etc) Anyway, I called the builder's rep & insisted upon viewing slabs & he tried to dissuade me (we get slabs from Atlanta, Virginia, they are not locally available, blah, blah) I told him I'd make the drive to wherever I needed to go (we paid $7000 for these counters, I didn't care about an over night trip!!) I live in the Raleigh area. As it turns out, the fabricator they used was an hour away. (Funny, huh) The slab was delivered there. I drove up, had a long talk with the fab. Saw some inconsistencies on one of the slabs (Giallo Ornamental), & the fab suggested using that area for the sink cut out. He was very knowledgeable & I felt comfortable using these people. Also, be aware that Giallo Veneziano varies in coloring (this is one of the stones I started out with, Venetian Gold the other) some can be very peachy,
others golden. VIEW your slab!! My friend is stuck with a very gray Venetian Gold (did not view) - she hates it!! Another upside, I ended up going with a granite outside the builder's stock color choices! When I expressed concerns with the builders rep over color variations in the stones I mentioned earlier, he sent someone out with samples (I wanted a creamier not peachy background stone). I looked at all kinds of interesting stones. (not likely to be in most people's houses) Another alternative - I could have saved around $1500 to $2000 going around the builder. Have the builder put formica counters in your kitchen (ask them NOT to secure tops!!! Just lay them on) Have your granite person template after cabinets are in, & schedule installation for day after closing or shortly thereafter. If you go out on your own, you will have far more selection. Take measurements of counters, go to big box stores & get quotes on materials you like, this will give you an idea of what you will spend on your own. quotes through www.findstone.com Check reps thoroughly.
Also, I ed the person who showed us the samples & they came back & did a travertine kitchen backsplash (almost half the cost of going through thebuilder!) I am also having the upstairs bathroom done with Verde Marinache granite tops (looks live a river bed - flowing water & pebbles) Point is, I could have never gotten this through builder. 
Your builder wants your business - this is a very profitable area for them - INSIST, INSIST, INSIST!!!!! Wear them down or go elsewhere, knowing what I know now, I would NEVER not view my slab! Dan, USA,

R1: Faye, The resolution will lie with you. The description you gave about soapstone is accurate. The comparison to granite is not apples to apples though. 
1) Most granites are polished and available in many colors. Soapstone start light gray and eventually oxidizes to a dark gray/green. You use mineral oil to help even out the oxidation. It is a matte finish also. 
2) Most granites will not easily scratch. therefore they would require professional tools and professional abilities to remove them.
3) Cost- most soapstone countertops are more expensive than granite countertops.
Hope this helped. Steven, USA,  

R1: Michael, Don't be an idiot. You did a test and it performed poorly. NO! don't use it. How was that for unbiased? Steven, USA,  

R1: Well, I am not ing to dissuade you. I believe that you would be better suited using an engineered quartz product like Caesarstone over the Corian. The only thing I want to correct is the idea that marble is porous. It is not. It is just a calcium carbonate product that is soft and acid reactive. But then so is concrete and Corian. A light colored granite that does not need to be sealed multiple times per year is Bianco Sardo or Bianco Romano. They both need to be impregnated properly when 1st installed and checked based on how heavily used your kitchen is. The impregnation process is easy enough that I call it simple. Steven, USA,  

R1: Pat, The answer is whatever strikes your fancy. If you like tumbled marble then use it. Many other stones, ceramics, porcelains, and metals could be used also. You could also use wood bead board. Steven, USA,

R1: Well, I agree that limestone is too soft for most kitchens. I also get a fair amount of consumer complaints about honed black. Why don't you try soapstone? It is a good material and it only requires mineral oil every so often to help its darkening process. Steven, USA,

A 1437: Why do customers find seams acceptable on some solid surface countertops, when they have a fit if the granite tops have the slightest seam? We fabricate our countertops to where our seams are minimal and slightly seen, but what is so hard to understand that granite cannot be fabricated throughout the kitchen with no seams? Feb 12.  

R3: As a customer who had a beautiful granite countertop surface installed in our kitchen this past summer, I would recommend our fabricator's way of handling the seam issue. First, he encouraged us to visit his shop for our very first "serious" discussion, just to acquaint us with the materials and overall process of natural stone surface preparation. We got a tour of his slabs on hand and were shown the stone workers using the grinding machines in back. Then, when it came time to choose our material, we were given a list of several wholesale warehouses to visit, to view and select our slabs from. 
Any consumer that gets to see granite slabs first-hand immediately will understand that seams are going to be necessary. We collaborated with our fabricator on how best to plan the placement of seams to fit the ideal layout of our pattern and countertop runs. At the end of the day, we knew exactly what to expect and had no problem whatsoever with the end result. 
Above all, the emphasis must be that granite is a NATURAL product, cut in manageable blocks from mountainsides halfway around the world (Brazil in our case) - we felt grateful just to get some of it into our kitchen, no matter how the seams were placed! Cheers, Steve, USA,

R1: I don't understand the question. Would you please elaborate on what information you want. Generally, all granite and solid surface material come in sheets or slabs of specific sizes, therefore, all solid surface countertops have seams. Some materials that are one solid color can be adequately face sanded with a matching resin to render the seams invisible. Steven, USA

R1: Usually all dark colored "granites" are a good choice. Just choose the one you like the best, take home a piece of scrap of it, and run my little "lemon juice test." Maurizio,  

R1: Dear Al: I'm not the one who's saying that honed black granite is trouble. All the people who had it installed in their kitchens -- bar none -- are saying that, and I'm just reporting the facts on the forums I participate in. 
Honed black granite is gray, but everything humid that touches it -- even slightly humid, such as your fingertips -- will make it appear black. If it's just water, when dry it will leave some mineral deposit on the stone's surface that you will have to clean; if it's something with some oil in it (including your fingertips), the darker spots will remain, unless you clean them right away and all the time. Bottom line: While the same granite in its polished form will still get soiled but won't show much (only from a low angle, and when the light hits the spots in a certain way), therefore it will never represent an eyesore, and you can plan to clean it, say, once a day, in its honed form it will show every single little spot as soon as it occurs, in a dramatic way, from any angle and under any light. I hope you can picture it in your mind, because, believe you me, it is yucky!! 
The application of a penetrating sealer (impregnator) would be totally useless, because, first -- due to the inherent density of the stone -- only an insignificant amount will go in, and, second and most importantly, an impregnator helps prevent deep staining (which are not an issue with black granite), not certainly surface soiling. 
The only solution to minimize the problem would be the application of a stone color enhancer, which is basically a mineral oil that will "stain" the stone uniformly and almost permanently. This would mean to turn the countertop black -- though still honed. 
The question is: what were you looking for, a honed finish regardless of the color, or a gray honed color? You just can't have it both ways. Maurizio,  

R1: "Granite" is 100% natural stone. Engineered stone is 94% natural stone chips and 6% epoxy resin. Corian is plastic. Maurizio,

R2: Dear Sir, The problems faced by Kitchen floors on the over all use of the kitchen and varies from county/culture as the cooking habits and kitchen use is different. Kitchen is not a large area where specific stone can be ordered and installed, therefore normally the selection is based on the best locally available material. As your mail do not give the particulars of your country/address it would be difficult to give you specific options on choice of stone. Please revert back with your address. Arun, India,

A 1372: I am so confused on this granite issue. We are remodeling our kitchen and I was sure that we would use granite until our kitchen designer advised us against it because we have children. She said that if peanut butter, cheese, etc. was ever left on the granite it would have a permanent grease stain. Is this so? After reading some of the other questions it looked like stains could be taken out but it looked like it could be time consuming. Are there better colors to get or types of stone to get to avoid this maintenance or is granite not kid friendly. Rob. Jan 25.

A 1362: Hi, I have fallen in love with Walnut Cobblestone!!! I have several questions for you. First, what classification of stone is cobblestone...during my research to find info about this stone, I have noticed that the usual categories for stone are granite, marble, travertine, sandstone, slate, etc. I am not having much luck finding ANY info about this stone - please help me understand the origin and make up of this beautiful stone!!! Secondly, I REALLY want to use it for my kitchen countertop. I have been given many
different opinions - pretty split down the middle about doing it (or not). I am a cleaner as I go and understand it will not be a smooth surface. If sealed properly, I have been told that it should perform beautifully. I know I will have to seal it periodically to prevent absorption of stains. Please give me the pros and cons about using it for this application. Thank you so much...your site is very insightful!! Stefanie, Jan 23,

R1: Cobblestone generally refers to a rounded stone used for paving. Walnut is a color associated many times with a travertine. If this is the case (I am not saying it is) then you do not want it for a kitchen countertop. I don't think the definition I supplied would come in slabs. Travertine does not make a good countertop. It is soft and acid reactive but not overly absorptive. Regards Steven, USA,

R1: Dear Jeri: Trust me, you are NOT interested in locating Piera Cardosa for your kitchen countertop. Magazines have the tendency to publish anything that looks "different" to keep stirring interest in their publication, but they don't know the first thing about many of the things they report about, especially when it comes to stone. Look how popular honed black granite for kitchen countertops has become, just because pictures of it were published by several magazines. The trail of tears left behind from the owner of such a maintenance nightmare could solve the drought problem of the Sahara desert!! 
Pietra Cardosa has a rate of absorbency which is much higher than granite, and hardly controllable with an impregnator-type penetrating sealer, to begin with (no matter what some salesman will try to say to you). On top of that it's chemically unstable and sensible to acidic spills almost as much as marble. Leave it on the pages of the magazine, and consider yourself lucky to have inquired about it in this forum. Maurizio, USA

R1: Dear Faye (is it still you, from Central Florida?): 
Try my Lemon Juice Test. Take a piece of the scrap "granite" you want to test and spill a few drops of lemon juice onto it. If you see that under the drops of lemon it develops very quickly dark spots, it means that it's a very absorbent stone and I would advise you (and anybody else, for that matter) against it. If it takes, say, a minute or so to be absorbed, then you're dealing with a degree of absorbency that's easily manageable with the application of a good-quality impregnator-type sealer. If it doesn't absorb at all, then you have a winner right there! Go for it, and don't bother sealing it.
But hold your horses for an extra minute!
Now, why lemon juice and not simply water?
Because lemon juice is highly acidic, and, if for any chance, the "granite" you're considering is a mixed stone (with some calcite in it), it would etch. That is, it would have a permanent dull spot where the lemon was sitting, after you clean it up. If that's the case, you do NOT want that stone in your kitchen. Maurizio, USA,  

R3: Claire, Here is the counterpoint. I challenge any of the other panelists as to their practical, hands-on experience with Pietra de Cardoso. We are perhaps the largest importer of Cardoso in the U.S. (usually 2-3 containers per year when we can get our hands on it - it can be very difficult to acquire sometimes). Through the years we have furnished, fabricated and installed scores of kitchen countertops, custom kitchen sinks (both made from slab material and ones machined from a solid block of Cardoso with drainboards, etc.), fireplaces, etc. It is a wonderful material if you are looking for an alternative to a highly polished stone. It has a true "old world" look and feel to it. It is harder than Soapstone, softer than granite (comparable in hardness to Corian). It is more porous than most granites, less than some. We recommend using either a good quality impregnator or color enhancer (if you wish to darken it). Not only is it good enough for my customers but I have it in my own kitchen and abuse it daily (I have the resources to acquire nearly any stone I wish but I chose Cardoso for my own kitchen!) Maurizio is correct about honed black granite - we refuse to fab it any longer. It is nothing but problems because of it being near impossible to get a uniform finish. But he is wrong about Cardoso. No, it will not perform like Blue Pearl, but not everyone wants that look. Joe, USA,

R1: Dear Claire: Pietra Cardosa is just as absorbent as some "bad" "granites", plus it etches, too! That's more than plenty, believe you me!! Ciao, Maurizio, USA,  

R2: Dear Deanna: Is there any limit to what one would say and do to sell his or her product over the competition, especially when this competition is so far superior?! 
"Granite" is a product of nature, and, as such, does have its limitations, but, please, let's not compare it to a piece of plastic!! 
What's more, if properly selected, the limitations of "granite" are, by all intent and purposes of a kitchen countertop, totally immaterial. 
The greatly exaggerated venom spit out by that saleslady is not totally groundless, however. With a precious few exceptions, no rumor stems from absolutely nothing! 
The fact is that the mercantile classification of "granite" includes a variety of (natural) stones (mostly 100% siliceous) the vast majority of which have little to do (if anything at all!) with geological granite. For the intent and purposes of a kitchen countertop, many of these different stones are just as good, or even better than true granite. Many others, alas, are -- in my opinion -- an embarrassment (to say the least) to the stone industry, and, ultimately, the responsible of the rumor so colorfully spread by the plastic saleslady. 

Most people totally neglect to expose the problems that end-users would find if they'd go out buying "granite" and stumble upon one of those numerous stones that are (falsely) marketed as granite, but, if you ask me, should be banned altogether from a kitchen environment. Of course, the salesmen from this side of the fence, will "prove" that those stones are granite by showing you the invoice of the distributor (!), and will assure you that every problem will be once and for all solved by the application of the totally overrated, over promoted and over applied "miracle-in-a-bottle," "you-don't-need-to-know-s#@t-about-stone" that go under the label of "Stone impregnator-sealers." (I do make one of them, and a darn good one at that, so you can't certainly say that I'm biased!). 
The fact is that there's no substitute for professionalism and (specific) education, and no salesman carrying around some bottle and some fancy brochure can overcome that. 
So than, what to do? Does one has to give up buying "granite" because of this possible and hardly detectable pitfall? 
No. Although the stone industry is totally and shamelessly unregulated, there are quite a few good guys out there, and it should not be so difficult to spot them. What's more, here comes my infamous "lemon juice test" to the rescue!!. Rely on it more than anything you can hear in your shopping adventure, and, I promise, you will be a very "happy camper," proud granite countertop owner!   Maurizio, USA

Thank you so very much for your informative . Also, is there a kit available for testing absorption on the various granites, or is that something I need to ask a local vendor? In addition, could you tell me why you chose not to use a sealer? Finally, another BIG THANK YOU for taking time to respond. I might get my granite countertop after all! Yeah! Deanna in Oregon, Jan 18.  

Maurizio has already responded to you. The reason I didn't use an impregnator is #1 my wife likes to use bleach based products to clean up (I use my wonderful stone specific formulated products when I do it.) #2 The stone isn't very absorbtive.I followed my own advice and purchased a stone countertop that was low absorption with characteristics that I liked. Regards Steven  

R2: Dear Lorie: In my opinion slate is not a good material for kitchen countertops. Being soft it does scratch easily. I really don't know of any "harder" slate. The "best" (the "less worse" better defines it!) is the one coming from New England. At least is not absorbent. Other slates, such as those coming from India of China, are very absorbent, too! In my fabrication shop I never wanted to get involved with slate or soapstone (nor honed black granite, for that matter), so I don't know about their fabrication costs. What can I say, I'm a weird businessman: I'd rather let a customer go some where else, rather than doing something stupid for him or her, just for the sake of making a sale. Maurizio, USA,  

A 1331: I am looking for information on soapstone countertops. I am a builder in the Portland Oregon area and have approximately 80sq ft of countertop that I would like to install soapstone on. Please provide any pertinent information. Trish, Jan 15.  

I understand that soapstone is one of the softer stones but it is also my understanding that scratches & dings can be sanded out & treated with mineral oil to return them to normal appearance. Whereas with granite such problems are relatively unfixable (reason #1). Granite seems to be very trendy right now, soapstone has been used for the last century or so in New England farmhomes so surely it is durable (reason #2). Granite slabs are very expensive, I don't like the tile look because of the grout issues (sealing, staining, etc.), soapstone slabs are relatively affordable since my husband, a builder, can fabricate them (reason #3). Overall, soapstone made sense to me but I'm certainly open to expert advice, which is where you brilliant folks come in!! Thanx so much for your time - any insight is very much appreciated. Trish, January 18,  

A 1315: I live in the US, and have a good friend in India, and I have though about purchasing Marble for my kitchen countertop direct from India. I certainly could save a lot on the raw material, however the bigger question is this: I know that much of the cost comes from the fabrication and installation. Is it possible to still have the fabrication done in India, to save cost, and is there a good model for how to do this? Josh, Jan 10.

R1: Dear Josh: Saving money is everybody desire, but you're not going anywhere near at having a cheap kitchen countertop with your theory. How's going to template? Who's going to unload the truck? Who's going to install the darn thing? What about if there's something wrong that needs rectifying in the field; do you have the equipment and the necessary know-how to do that? What about if one of the components breaks during the trip (it does happen and more often that you may think!)? Who's going to pay for freight and custom? And ... most important of all, who's the idiot who wants marble in a kitchen?! Now, draw your own conclusions. Maurizio, USA

R1: It depends on what you find reasonable. Utilizing 18" tiles requires a flat substrate and a lot of cuts on the tiles themselves. Stop for a moment and assess which cost is most important. The cost of putting the countertops in inexpensively or the total cost including longevity of the installation. If you put something in and it looks bad how long will you want to keep it in? Beyond that, It is true that you can beat a $65.00 SF installation with granite tiles but only by about $10-15 SF.Steven, USA,

R1: Here is the very BEST help I can give you, and that's the only possible answer (among the sensible ones, that is): YOU DO NOT WANT ANY OF THOSE THINGS IN YOUR KITCHEN!!! Maurizio, USA,

R1 Mike, Wow, man, you do need an expert for this one, all right! ok Ready? Get your local Yellow Pages and check the listings " Marble Natural" Here in the North East you'd be paying on or around $ 350, Now I'm so strained by this complex answer that I need a vacation ,Maurizio, USA  

A 1122: Looking for the best in kitchen flooring!  Trying to research the differences in granite, marble, limestone, tile, slate, and brick.  What would be most durable?  Provide the most sanitary environment? Provide the least upkeep? Thank you. Sharon, USA, Oct 4,
R6: Granites and ceramic tiles are the most durable materials, marbles and limestones can be scratched. Pores of limestones and some marbles can be sealed by dirt. Surface of slates are not smooth. I recommend you granite with not quite polished surface to avoid slipping. Daniel, Slovakia
R5: For durability and ease of maintenance, I would suggest either honed granite or matte porcelain. Aesthetics come into play however, and usually polished surfaces convey the image that most are looking for. Polished surfaces of these two types of materials would also be durable and relatively easy to maintain, but would eventually show wear patterns which would require some polish restoration. With good impregnation (sealing) and maintenance, both of these materials should be very durable, easy to keep looking new, and santized. Bob, USA,
R4: The answers to your questions...granite, granite and granite. But serviceability is not the be all and end all, it depends on what sort of effect you want.  Granite can be stylish but it can also make your home look cold and hard.  Marble in a home reminds me of a wonderful silk garment but most need the same amount of care.  Slate is warm, durable and casual - used inside it needs regular sealing.  Bricks in the right home sound great but abrasion can be a problem in high traffic areas. Decide on the look you want and balance that with the maintenance requirements. Jim, Australia,
R3: Granite.. tile........... slate............... limestone..... brick............... marble in that order for all questions asked. Steven, USA,
R2: Granite. Pini, USA,
R1: See my answers in the previous months. Maurizio, USA,

A 1085: I am sure this is one of your least important questions, but here goes, I have been looking for a simple blackboard for my kitchen, thinking I would walk into my first store and I would have many choices, now after 100 stores and craft exhibits, I have not come upon any selection of blackboards! Any suggestions? Karen, USA, Sept. 2,
R1: Come to think of it, I haven't seen an old fashion blackboard in the retail market for quite a while also.  Seems like those "dry erase" white boards are the in-thing.  However, you could make your own without too much trouble since an old fashion blackboard is only a slab of slate. Slate is readily available (try local fabricators, or pool table supply houses --Yes the material under the felt on a pool table is traditionally slate -- Have the material cut to the size you want and build a frame around it. Or cut it your self, slate being relatively easy to saw with a masonry blade available from any hardware store on a skill saw. Or you could probably find an old school house blackboard through a building materials recycler, and cut that to size. Don't give up --there is nothing like the sound of chalk screeching across the black board to get everyone’s attention. JVC, USA,

A 1068: Care: I have looked at 'honed' granite for kitchen countertops that have a softer look than the typical high polish. I have been given various descriptions about how this granite who hold up, particularly to stains. It makes sense that honed granite might be more susceptible to stains but is this a real issue? Barbara, USA. August 16
R1: Dear Barbara: The "look" of honed granite is very "in" nowadays. Your concerns are legitimate. A honed stone surface is actually more absorbent than the same one finished to a polish, because the polishing process tightens the surface pores, somehow. The increase in degree of absorbency is only marginal, however, in the case of "granite". If the "granite" you would like to have is not too absorbent (whether honed or polished it doesn't matter) you can solve the porosity problem with a good-quality stone impregnator-sealer.
But ... What you have to understand now is that if you settle for a honed-finished "granite" you will naturally lose depth of color, over the same granite when polished. The most dramatic example is black granite: Once honed, it becomes gray. A good sealer will prevent staining agents to be absorbed into the stone, but won't prevent, of course, surface soiling. Sticking to the example of black granite, surface soiling -- especially of an oily nature -- will show a lot and represent a real eyesore!  To continuously keep your countertop clean, you will become a slave of it! To minimize the problem, you should opt for a penetrating sealer that's a color enhancer, too. What this product does is seal the stone below surface just as well as an impregnator sealer, but it will also make the stone almost as dark as if it were polished. Ciao and Good-luck! Maurizio, USA
 
A 1067: Suitability: I have been shown a slab apparently labeled "Italian soapstone" that the dealer is calling basalt. It is a uniform medium blue-gray material that has the soft feel of limestone. The dealer has used this in one counter and claims that it is a very dense and hard material and seems to think that it could be an ideal countertop for a kitchen if one likes the 'plainness'.  I can find no information on this material as a countertop. Any suggestions where I would look?. Barbara, USA, August 16,
R1: Dear Barbara: It can't be soapstone. Soapstone is very dense (therefore it won't take any sealer in), and is extremely soft. It’s used by many amateur sculptors and may be professional too. I'm sure because of its softness and its natural resistance to chipping, to make figurines and stuff. One can actually carve it -- without chisel and hammer -- by using special hand-held shaping tools. Nowadays it's very "in" as a material for kitchen countertops because of its look and feel (it actually feels like soap). As far as I am concerned, because of its extreme softness, I wouldn't use it as a kitchen countertop in my own home, not even if they pay me to have it! But it's just me: My wife and I actually use the kitchen a lot!
The stone you describe sounds to me like the Italian "Basaltina". It's a volcanic, extrusive rock that wanted to be "black granite", but never made it there! It's dark gray, very smooth to the touch, and very, Very, VERY absorbent. Because of that, even in this case, I wouldn't have it in my own kitchen! Let's make no mistake, I make a stone sealer (and, I would say, a pretty darn good one at that!), and business logic would dictate that I should sell as much of the stuff as possible. But what can I tell you, I am a naive Italian and a lousy salesman, too: I care about the satisfaction of the final consumer more than any business logic. I know I shouldn't, but I just can't help thinking that people like you are, after all, those who pay all our bills, and I am so stupid to respect that! Sealers do help a great deal in situations that can be helped. When we go into stones that "require a lot of sealer", even the best product would turn out to be just a fix. Try Black Absolute "granite" with a hone finish (have it sealed it well, maybe with a color enhancer. If you need more info, I am there to help you. Maurizio, USA
 

A 1061: Corian: I have a client who is in the medical business and has heard that granite or marble countertops are high risk for Salmonella (not sure how to spell this) poisoning. Could you tell me if there is any truth to this? She has also been told that marble is more porous than granite therefore is more of a risk. Lorne, USA, Aug 6.
R1: Dear Lorne: I'm glad to see that your friend in the medical business just "has heard" about that caka-baloney (not sure how to spell this); that is, he did not make that statement himself, or else I'd have some serious doubt about his medical abilities! Whoever talked to your friend so "intelligently" doesn't have a clue about Salmonella (yes, you spelled it right) and. Most importantly, he doesn't know the first thing about stone, either! I'm ready to bet money that that guy is somehow involved (or got that information from someone involved) in the "Corian" business.
The makers of the "Corian" garbage (that's how I feel about it) are mighty worried about the growing popularity of natural stone as a material for countertops. They have good reason to be: Stone looks much better than plastic (that's what "Corian" is), it doesn't scratch so easily, it is heat-resistant (if you put a hot pot onto a piece of "Corian" it will melt) and, to top it all, in many a case it turns out to be competitive price-wise, too! All that considered, who would be so dumb to buy "Corian"? Hence all the lies about stone being naturally soaked with "Radon" gas (can anybody actually believe that!!!!), and now that Salmonella garbage.
Regardless, just for the sake of the scientific truth, marble is not more absorbent than granite. In fact, it is the opposite: granite is, on average, twice as absorbent as marble. There are several considerations, however, to keep in mind. First off, regardless of absorbency (porosity), you do NOT want a polished marble (or travertine, or any other polished calcite-based stones) in your kitchen. The problem with these types of stone is not their absorbency (well, limestone is very absorbent, too), but their chemical make-up. Being that their major component is Calcite (Calcium Carbonate) they will react to acidic spills (orange juice, lemonade, vinegar, tomato sauce, salad dressing, most pop sodas, etc.) and get damaged by them on . The resulting visual effect is a "dull spot" -- kind of a water-spot -- or ring, or splatter, that is nothing but an etch mark, a mark of corrosion that the acid left behind.
These kinds of surface damage are those that make all the stone "geniuses" out there to conclude that marble is porous, because their limited IQ goes only by the look: "they look like stain, therefore they are stains".
To the best of my knowledge, no sealer -- as of this writing -- can prevent those surface damages from happening. They can be fixed, of course, but it's a chore that's beyond your average homeowner's abilities.
Another consideration to evaluate is the fact that marble is much "softer" than granite, therefore it scratches easily (not as easily as "Corian", though!). Therefore, granite is your "man" when it comes to a superior material for a kitchen countertop, no doubt. (Green marbles are a pretty good choice, too. In fact, they are not marbles. But that's another story).
But now I must talk about granite. As I had the opportunity to report in many other occasions, the industry world-wide is pretty much unregulated, to the point that when somewhere, in some remote corner of this blessed planet someone finds a pretty stone that can be polished and doesn't look like marble, they label it "granite" no matter what on earth that poor thing actually is (by the way, they don't look like granite, either!).  The result is that the vast majority of the stones traded as granite are, in fact, related to granite like a cat to a cow. Hence, we can have "granites" that are extremely dense (therefore less absorbent than granite and marble, too), while at the other end of the spectrum, we have "granites" that are as absorbent as sponges (and you do NOT want these latter types in your kitchen, no matter what some stone "Guru" is going to tell you about "using a good-quality stone sealer..."). In every industry that's unregulated, for as long as confusion and specific ignorance rule, everybody's happy (with the exception of the consumers, of course, but who cares? They are only there to pay all our bills, that’s all!)
My Italian blood goes into boiling when I hear about all the slanders put out by interest groups against natural stone; but it also boils by realizing that the practices implemented by the majority of stone industry operators, with the blessing of the recognized stone authorities, are unethical, to say the least. That's why, among other activities, I also offer consultation services (most of the time for free). Nonetheless, I'm upset. Maurizio, USA .
 
A 1056:I work in a restaurant and I am looking for some type of stone used tableside for appetizers that cook at the table. I have used something like this before but not sure of the stone. We put the stones in a 500 degrees oven for a couple of hours and then used them table side. any ideas? Brian, USA, July 24.
R1: What you are probably looking for is soapstone. This type of stone heats well, and holds the heat for a long period of time.  It is the stone of choice for lining stoves, and fireplaces in place of fire-brick. JVC, USA
 

A 1022: DIY: Thank you for such an informative website.  You may have answered my questions already but would love confirmation on this.  I bought some granite tiles (couldn't afford slab).  The tile (keep in mind, you see 1 example) had some veining and movement.  I'm going crazy trying to put this in an order on my countertops that makes sense -- I feel like I'm trying to put a Rubic's Cube together and all the squares have different colors, and patterns for that matter.  Any suggestions, or should I just give it up and go for that "mosaic" look? Solvi, USA. June 23
R1: If you can get your money back for the tile, there is a way I can probably make slab kitchen countertops available to you at a price you can afford. I have quite a few "pre fabricated" countertops that can be had for a very reasonable price.( + shipping , I don’t know where in the US you are, I am in Michigan). For an example, you could get a 25.5" X 96" countertop in granite, with a 1 1/2" bullnose edge on the two short and one long edge. You then just need to cut it to the size you need, (Cutting off the side that will be against the wall). I could sell it to you for about $310.00 total per piece (have some 36x72 Islands available as well for around $490.00 full 1 1/2" bullnose edge on all four sides) you can me for more information.
If you decide to go with the tile, to achieve a pattern with assorted pattern tiles, (I can't see what you have so have to guess a bit). When you can't get the patterns and such to match, see if you can sort it out into two piles of LOTS OF VEIN / PATTERN and ALMOST NO VEIN / PATTERN. Set aside Middle of the road piece for now. If you can sort out enough that way, then go for a Checker-Board pattern using the heavy and light veined tiles as you would red and black tiles on a checker board. Nice thing about tile is you can to this and see what it looks like before you glue anything. Good luck. Bill, USA

A 987: Inform me about standard thickness of granite countertops.  Ira, USA. May 18
R2: Dear Ira: There are no standards (official, that is). In general, however, kitchen countertops are manufactured in either 2 cm. (approx. 3/4"), or 3 cm. (approx. 1 1/4"). In the case of the 2 cm. a "lamination job" is recommendable. Lamination is the application of a strip of the same granite under and all along the edges of the counter. After the glue is properly cured, the shop operator will provide to shape and polish the edges as chosen by the customer. I like this kind of fabrication better than the 3 cm. In fact, visually it looks thicker than the 3 cm. (it is, in fact, 4 cm. -- approx. 1 1/2"). Overall it is lighter, which means that it's more "cabinet and floor friendly", but it is indeed stronger where it counts (along the edges, that is). Maurizio, USA
 
R1: 3/4" you can double it at the edge. Pini, USA.

A 983: I need to find something like a sealant and cleaner for red quarry tile we have in our liquid fill rooms. We are a neutricutical manufacturer so we mix food products in that room. Vanessa, USA. May 11 
R1: Dear Vanessa: That was one bad choice! Best advice? Rip the darn thing out and have waterproof tiles (ceramic or porcelain) installed. Sorry. Maurizio, USA

A 982: Pros and cons, honed verses polished granite for kitchen countertops. USA, May 10
R2: None whatsoever. (Absolute black, however, it's a pain in the neck to keep clean, when finished honed). You should be much more concerned with the type of "granite" you choose, than its finish. Maurizio, USA
 
R1: Hi! Honed is big porous polish is small, you better off with polish or seal heavily the hone surface. Pini, USA.
 
A 1050: Hi! I just completed gutting my kitchen and am searching for a specific granite for a countertop.  It is called Bianco Romano (beiges with hints of cream and tiny splotches of a reddish -brown).  I reside on the North Shore of Massachusetts (near Salem, MA).  If you know of a dealer in my area which carries this product, or know the following information, would you please email me the information:  
        1.   Price per linear foot for countertop
        2.   Price per linear foot for backsplash
        3.   Price of cutouts for an undermount sink and cooktop
        4.   Cost of a 1/2 bullnose edge (one side only)
        5.   Installation charge
        6.   Delivery charge
        Kate, USA, May 10.
 
A 981: I bought a beautiful lot of travertine marble,(polished & finished) cut into tiles 16"x16"x5/8". There are two different color ranges, the majority of it was a golden/taupe color that I successfully installed, as flooring.  I have plenty of the second color which is just like the gemstone (cat's eye), anyway what I would like to do is install this as a counter top, I'd even have enough to do the wall up to the base of the cabinets.  I would like to do this myself. Can you give me instruction in doing this.  What would I use as an underlayment? Cement board? Would I use a marble thinset to set it or an epoxy?  I am not crazy about a wood edge on stone countertops. I would like to join pieces together on the end, and cut it to make an attractive edge, like a granite countertop.  Is there some type of router attachment I can use to cut it? Or is it all industrial machinery they use to give it a finished edge? Also, would I use and epoxy and if so what type? And finally, I would like to hone and polish it, to try and make it look like one big piece.  Thank you. USA. May 9

R1: Simply put: YOU DO NOT WANT TO USE YOUR BEAUTIFUL POLISHED TRAVERTINE AS A KITCHEN COUNTERTOP MATERIAL. Maurizio, USA
 
A 977: I am remolding my kitchen and had my heart set on granite for a 5' island. I live in the Upper Peninsula of Michigan and the cost of bringing a slab that large is prohibitive.  We have found granite tile in 12" squares locally.  My questions is two fold: What do you think of putting tile on a countertop and what do you think of putting this granite tile on the kitchen island that will be used for most everything? USA, May 4
R1: Using tiles instead of a slab is not that bad of an idea, if you accept the look of the finished job. You major concern, however, should be on the type of "granite" you'll be using. Some of them are really a bad idea (slabs or tiles, it doesn't matter) as a material for kitchen countertops. Maurizio, USA

 
Q 966: I would like to use marble on my kitchen counter tops instead of the recommended granite.  The marble is a heavily veined one and I am prepared to "suffer" ring marks from glasses. This stuff is costly tho’ and I don’t want to make a mistake.  Will acids such as vinegar, lemon juice and tomato juice ruin the counter top even if not wiped up after one minute?  Will wine ruin it?  Can I sufficiently seal the marble and if I take a lot of care by sealing once a year will I be happy or will I regret not putting granite? Diana, USA. May 1
R2: Dear Diana: If you don't want to lose your own marbles, do NOT use polished marble in a kitchen! Only certain green marbles would be suitable. To answer your three specific questions: 1. Yes.  2. Yes.  3. Yes, you WILL regret it (sealing has nothing to do with it). Maurizio, USA
 
R1: Hi! Marble not a good idea, acids such as vinegar, lemon juice and tomato juice ruin the counter top even if not wiped up after one minute. YES. Pini, USA.
 

A 968: I have recently purchased "Natural" cherry cabinets for my kitchen and would like to know what color you would recommend to match the Natural Cherry. Please advise.  My floors will be tiled in a neutral tile color. Colleen, USA, April 25.  
R2: Dear Colleen, I can recommend you granites: NEW RUBY (homogenous), CARPAZI (homogenous), JACARANDA (veined), PARADISO CLASSICO (veined), marbles: ROSSO LAGUNA, ROSSO CARPAZI. Daniel, Slovakia

R1: Though this answer is late I believe you have two distinct directions to move in. Blend or contrast.
Though not specifically a granite by strict definition is Dakota Mahogany, a white is Bianco Romano, and a green Is Verde Jewel. Steven, USA  

A 941 a: I'm in the process of buying a granite counter top for my kitchen. Prices range from $ 70 to $90 linear ft. I found a dealer selling it at $55 a linear ft installed. What questions should I ask to make sure I'm getting quality product. I don't know if there are different grades of granites. Christopher, March 16, USA.

R1: Dear Christopher: Wow, man, in which part of the country do you live? Here in the Northeast we're talking about $120 linear ft.! And that's without the sinkhole, the faucet-holes and the backsplash! Since, wherever it is that you live, the cost of a slab can't be any lower than here in the Northeast, I would have three questions for the guy who bid $55 installed.  
1. Are you related with Santa?
2. How do you manage to steal granite slabs without getting caught?
3. What kind of medication are you on?
The average cost of a granite slab is around $11 per square foot. The average cost for templating and installation comes in at around $12 per square foot. So far we are at $23 per square foot, that translates into $48 per linear foot. How can one possibly manage to fabricate (labor), amortize the machinery (rather expensive stuff), pay his overhead and make a profit out of $3.5 per square foot ($7 per linear foot) beats me and -- in my humble opinion -- any logic. As far as different grades of granite is concerned, the answer is YES, there are, but ... NO, there aren't! See my answer to Q 909. You're a lucky fellow, all right! Maurizio, USA