Marble and Granite Installations
in Residential Dwellings.
Daily Maintenance - DOs 'n' DON'Ts -
by Maurizio, USA
Congratulations, you've got one of Mother
Nature best in your home!
It is time now to make sure that you're going to follow a few basic guidelines
for its proper maintenance and preservation. Maintenance of natural stone
is not much more difficult than any other material you're familiar with.
The difference is mostly in the cleaning agents. Natural stones - especially
calcite-based stones such as marble, travertine, limestone, etc. - have
a delicate chemical composition that may interact in "strange" (damaging)
ways with the chemistry of cleaning solutions that were not specifically
formulated for the task. Once you know WHAT to use, all you have
to do is follow the basic DOs 'n' DON'Ts listed here:
GENERAL
Spills can be very different in nature from one another. Most of them
will turn out to be detrimental to stone if unattended. Orange juice,
lemonade, wine, vinegar, liquors, tomato sauce, yogurt, salad dressing,
perfume, after shave, wrong cleaning products and so on, through a long
list, most likely won't damage "granite" and "green marble" surfaces,
but will ETCH polished marble, travertine, limestone, onyx and
alabaster. Therefore,
DO pick up any spill as quickly as you can get to it. DON'T rub
the spill, only blot it.
DON'T use any generic cleaning product on your natural stone,
or nearby it (i.e.: a liquid toilet bowl cleaner when the toilet is set
on a marble floor), unless the label specifies that it's safe on natural
marble (cultured marble is manmade, and it's basically a plastic
material).
FLOORS
The means: A cleaning chore - any cleaning chore - is seldom a
matter of a cleaning product only. Other factors are involved, such as
a cleaning rag, a sheet of paper towel, a scrubbing pad, a squeegee, and
so on. Without this additional means, the cleaner alone won't do much
good! What's more, many a time the type and quality of the means is just
as important as the quality of the cleaning product. If one uses some
sub-par means, the cleaning product will not work at its best. This fact
is never been truer than in the case of a glossy floor. I often noticed
households using what I define as pathetic mops, many a time not so clean,
either, teamed with tiny buckets on which to prepare the solution! A good-quality
mop and the proper mopping bucket are key to obtaining the best results
at mopping your highly polished stone or porcelain floor. In all my experience
I reached the conclusion that sponge mops are not the best types of mop
for a highly polished floor. My very favorites are good sized, closed-loop
cotton string mops. It's always best to buy at least a couple of mop-heads,
so that, when one is dirty, all you have to do is throw it into the washing
machine and use another one in the meantime. The mop bucket is very important
too. Small buckets only hold little water (which, of course, will get
dirty real quick), plus they don't have any provisional means to wring
the mop properly. Professional-type mop buckets with a wringer, that hold
a good 4 GL of cleaning solution are highly recommended. Excellent mop
handles and heads, as well as a terrific bucket with wringer on wheels
(by "Rubbermaid") are available in the cleaning isle of The Home Depot.
They are relatively inexpensive, too. It's a well worth investment if
you have a lot of hard floors in your house!
The care:
NEWLY INSTALLED FLOORS. The best thing to have done to a brand-new
polished stone floor is a detailing job by a properly trained
janitor, or a professional stone refinisher. Detailing means deep-cleaning
the floor virtually square inch by square inch, removing all possible
grout residue or film and adhesive, taking care of possible small damages
left behind by workers, or a possible few factory flaws, and open the
pores of the stone by using some special cleaning agent, so that the stone
can "breathe" and dry properly. Should you decide not to have your floor
detailed,
DON'T damp-mop your floor immediately after installation and grouting.
While you wouldn't cause any real damage, the fine powder most likely
left on the floor will be trapped in the water and may leave ugly and
hard-to-remove streaks all over its surface. For the first week or so,
just vacuum and dust mop (NON treated dust mop!) your floor as often as
you can. You will know it's ready to be washed when your hands remains
clean (no whitish powder) after rubbing it on the floor. After that, or
in the case of a
NEWLY RESTORED (REFINISHED) FLOOR.
DO damp-mop your floor regularly. Don't use just water: it won't
cut through soil and will leave streaks. We recommend using a solution
of water and "Mb-1", Marble, Granite and More Floor Cleaner, in the proportion
indicated in the bottle's back-label. DON'T use more than that.
While no damage would occur, a visible film would be left on the floor
surface that will require rinsing, thus wasting time and, what's more,
a very important feature of the product. DON'T rinse. The formulation
of Mb-1 includes specially selected inorganic salts that are meant
to be left on the surface of the stone and act as moisturizers, as well
as optical brighteners. When used in the right proportion and with the
right means, Mb-1 will leave your floor totally streak-free and
it will actually enhance the shine of your floor! Should you decide not
to use Mb-1,
DON'T damp-mop your floor using a solution of water and stone soap.
Like any other soap, stone soap WILL leave a hard-to-remove deposit
on the surface of the stone. Stone soaps have very limited applications
and, most importantly, quite different than cleaning a highly polished
stone floor, no matter what the label on the bottle says (salesmanship
has nothing to do with proper stone care!). Even so-called "rinse-free"
stone soaps are a marketing scam. In fact, by reading the back label on
their bottle, one will learn that every so often (when you can't stand
to look at your streaky and smeary floor any longer, that is!) you should
be using a heavy duty stripper/degreaser (made by the same company, of
course!) to remove all the "precious" scum that has been accumulating
on your otherwise beautiful floor by not rinsing it after damp-mopping
it. Always use a pH neutral floor detergent, opposed to a soap.
DON'T damp-mop your floor using a solution of water with a commercially
available cleaner, unless its label specifically indicates that its use
is safe on natural marble (cultured marble is not marble:
it's manmade plastic material). Worse yet,
DON'T
damp-mop your floor using a solution of water and vinegar. That would
be literally devastating to the finish of marble, travertine, limestone,
etc.! Vinegar is not a real cleaning agent to begin with, and it's highly
acidic (Acetic Acid). Use vinegar in your salad bowl, or for any other
cooking purposes it was meant for.
If your floor is in a foyer, or any other room with direct access to the
outside,
DO use proper floor mats. The leather or rubber of your shoes
won't damage your floor: dirt WILL. Don't look for "pretty" mats, look
for good ones! "ASTROTURF" mats by the Monsanto Co., (heavy-duty outside
the door and finer inside) are among the best, in my professional opinion.
They come in colors, too! A good Janitorial Supply Company should carry
them and even custom cut them for you. Look in the Yellow Pages and call
around. Most Janitorial Supply Companies do retail, and gladly so!
DO clean your floor mats often. When they get saturated with dirt
and sand they won't work anymore.
The preservation.
Many customers ask me what should they do to PRESERVE the factory
finish (or the finish of a newly restored floor). No matter how elaborate
the answer could be, at the end it only spells: W-O-R-K. No work
= no shine. There is no exception to such basic equation! If one's willing
to work in order to protect the "showroom finish" of his or her car by
regularly waxing it, the same principle should apply to a polished stone
floor (actually, even more so. After all, you don't walk on your car!).
"Mb-7" Marble, Granite and More Polish Preserver is an
excellent performer. Don't expect miracles, though! For starters, the
product should be applies as soon after installation, or restoration as
possible. It is meant to preserve the polish of the stone surface, not
to make it! If you think to apply it when the floor is beginning to show
damages (wear and tear patterns), Mb-7 will do a terrific job
at preserving … the damages! What's more, by the same principle that a
good-quality car wax will not preserve the original "showroom finish"
of your car for ever, so will Mb-7 with your polished stone floor.
Absolute protection is impossible, but if used regularly as directed,
Mb-7 will make your floor age gracefully and it will never represent
a real eyesore. Mb-7 must be applied with either a professional,
or a small residential floor buffer (available at Sears and other appliance
stores).
KITCHEN COUNTER TOPS
I want to assume that your kitchen counter-top is made either out of "granite"
or green marble. While any spray cleaner off the shelves of your local
supermarket could prove itself too harsh - therefore damaging - for the
delicate makeup of calcite-based stones like marble, travertine, limestone,
etc., theoretically it could be safely used to clean "granite" and green
marbles (at least most of them). However, all true granites and many other
"granites" (stone that are traded as granite, but granite are not) and
all green marbles need to be sealed with a good-quality impregnator-type
penetrating sealer (Mb-4 is an excellent impregnator and, to the
best of my knowledge, the only one that comes with a 20-year warranty),
and these sealers - although invisible - must be dealt with from a maintenance
point of view. In other words, while generic spray cleaners wouldn't (maybe)
damage the stone itself, they could turn out to be detrimental to the
impregnator-sealer, which will eventually lead to staining of your unprotected
counter top. In order not to take chances,
DO clean regularly you kitchen counter top with "Mb-5"
Marble, Granite and More Spray Cleaner, full strength, especially
in proximity of the cooking and eating areas.
DON'T let any spill sit too long on the surface of your counter
top. Clean spills up (preferably by blotting) as soon as you can.
VANITY TOPS
DO clean it regularly by using "Mb-5" Marble, Granite and
More Spray Cleaner. Considering the typical light-duty cleaning necessary
on a vanity top, Mb-5 can be diluted in a proportion of 2 : 1
with tap water (2 of water and 1 of Mb-5) and still perform flawlessly
(you can buy an extra spray-bottle at any hardware store). As far as the
mirror over your vanity top is concerned, DON'T take chances with
a regular glass cleaner: possible over-spray could spill on the marble
surface and may damage it. Therefore,
DO clean your mirror with the same solution of water and Mb-5.
even if you over-spray it, nothing bad is going to happen to your marble.
DON'T use any powder cleanser, or - worse yet - any cream cleanser,
such as "Soft Scrub".
DON'T do your nails on your marble vanity top, or your perm nearby
it.
DON'T put any wet bottle onto it (perfume, after-shave, etc.). Keep
your cosmetic and fragrances in one of those pretty mirror trays, and
make sure that the legs of the tray has felts tips.
SHOWER STALL
Tiled shower stalls - whether ceramic or natural stone - represent a very
delicate and demanding environment, because of the heavy-duty nature of
their use. There is quite a difference in use between the walls of the
bathroom outside the stall, and the same walls inside it! because of that,
the first real and utmost concern is that the installation is done properly,
because a poor executed installation will inevitably lead to an expensive
failure. besides all the plumbing work (which also includes the shower
pan) and the proper sheeting with the right material (no green-boards,
there!), it is important that a provision of 1/16" gap (the thickness
of a round toothpick) in between tiles is made, to grant for proper grouting.
While in the walls outside the shower stall an installation "butt-jointed"
(that is without any gap in between tiles) is acceptable and, I concede
it, prettier too, the same type of installation inside the stall will
mean a virtually sure installation failure. In fact, the grout would only
bridge the bevel where the tiles meet, but won't have any "root". As a
consequence, with the hot water hitting those grout lines day in and day
out, plus the heavy-duty cleaning that's typically necessary inside a
shower enclosure, that "ornamental" grout will first soften, then come
out. The consequence of that is that the water will start finding its
way in between tiles and, by gravity, accumulate under the tiles of the
shower floor creating all sorts of problems that, eventually, will call
for a total remaking of the shower stall.
Assuming that your shower stall was installed properly (please, every
so often, do monitor your grout and caulk lines, and address any problem
immediately!),
DON'T use any cleanser, either in a powdery or creamy form.
DON'T use any generic soap film remover, such as 'TILEX SOAP SCUM",
or "X-14 SOAP SCUM", or the likes on your polished stone shower stall.
DON'T use any generic mildew stain remover, such as "TILEX MILDEW
STAIN REMOVER", or 'X-14 MILDEW STAIN REMOVER" or the likes on your polished
stone shower stall.
DON'T use any magic self-cleaner, such as "SCRUb-FREE" and the likes,
or any harsh disinfectant, such as "LYSOL".
DO clean your shower stall daily. The easiest way is to use one of
those windshield-cleaning tools (the one with a scrubbing net on one side
and a squeegee blade on the other side). After everybody has taken a shower,
spray the walls and floor of the stall with a diluted solution of water
and Mb-5, scrub swiftly, then squeegee. When eventually you will
notice an accumulation of soap film (especially on the lower part of the
walls and on the floor pan) that looks and feel like wax, use "Mb-3"
Soap Film Remover. To clean it off, Mb-3 was specifically
formulated to be effective at doing the job of cleaning soap scum and
hard mineral deposits, while not interacting with the chemistry of natural
stone.
If, over time, some mildew will appear
on the grout lines of your shower enclosure,
DO clean the mildew stain with "Mb-9" Mildew Stain Remover.
This product, too, has been formulated to be safe on natural stone, while
very effective at removing mildew and other biological stains.
Should you wish to have more detailed information about the above recommendations
and products, send an email.
Do mention the name of the product.
© Mb I/02
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