R2: Dear Lonnie, Briefly the cons, it scratches very easy and some say it's bland. The pros, for others nothing matches the look of a well honed slate, it is impervious to water and is resistant to most chemical attack it also cuts easily. As for treatments, either none take a chance on one of the many commercial treatments or if you can out up with the smell for a few day's boiled linseed oil was traditionally used in my area. If it was used for blackboards it's usually tops. Good Luck Bryan UK

Q 4079: Hi i have a chip in my granite countertop in my kitchen, can i repair it with a special kit. its a dark color, so i can probobly use a dark epoxy to repair it. however, i'd like to know is there something special i can use. Thanks, Linclon, Oct 29. Reply

Q 4078: I am in the process of remodeling my kitchen/family room. I have chosen "imperial red" granite for the countertops and a multicolor slate for the floor. Are these good choices as far as performance and durability? Easy care? Any advice is appreciated because there is still time to make changes if I act soon. Great site! Thanks, Renee' from Fort Worth, Texas, Oct 29. Reply

Q 4077: I have marble countertops in the kitchen. Some vinegar got on the counters and where it sat for more than 5 minutes we have a light spot. I believe that it is the sealer that got discolored (might be polyurethane). What is the best way to get rid of these and bring the normal shine back, Jack, Oct 29. Reply.

Q 4076: I OWN A PEDESTAL MADE OF BEAUTIFUL ALABASTER STONE WHICH FELL AND NOW HAS SOME CRACKED PIECES.
HOW CAN I REPAIR IT WITHOUT IT BEING THAT NOTICEABLE? WILL A CLEAR EPOXY GLUE WORK? HOW SHOULD I APPLY IT?
WILL IT ACTUALLY DRY CLEAR? I WOULD REALLY APPRECIATE ANY ADVICE YOU CAN GIVE ME. THANK YOU LINDA, Oct 29. Reply

Q 4075: We moved into our home three years ago, and discovered that the previous owner used Mop and Glow on the agglomerate marble kitchen floor, and hallway leaving a heavy wax build up that had yellowed. I stripped the wax off the floor using Tile Lab Heavy-Duty Cleaner and Stripper. It is very dull and has no shine on it. I used Aqua Mix Marble Re-Polishing System on one 12x12. This give it a little bit of shine. What would you suggest I use or do to get a super shiny floor like new marble? Eddie, Oct 29. Reply

R2: I suggest you use a marble powder with red pad and clean water with high speed scrubbing machine to get a better shine and maintain with buffing once a week Abdul Aziz

Q 4073: email me relevant information on how to cut granite, and any available classes I could take. Chiris, Oct 29. Reply

Q 4071: Hi! my slate countertops in our kitchen have become scuffed and scratched. I do not believe they were sealed when installed. How do I remove the scratches? Is there a rubbing compound that is safe? Jim, Oct 29. Reply

R1: Dear Jim: Nope. Now, listen very carefully to me: get rid of your slate countertop as fast as you can. It may hurt your wallet, but remember, it's only money! Your mental health should come fisrt! Ciao and good luck, Maurizio, Expert panelist

R1: Dear Bernadette: OK, let's see ... Once upon the time, some 65,000 years ago, the first humanoids started roaming a planet that later on was to be named earth. It's around that time that the love story between humankind and stone began. And they lived happily there after!! Now, is there anything else that you want to know? Ciao and good luck, Maurizio, Expert Panelist

R1: Dear Barab: Personally I'm very much against waxing a kitchen countertop. But then, it's just me, my wife and I use the our top as a food handling surfaceand we don't think that wax is a good idea. Now, remember, when it comes to natural stone, maintenance is an all too important yet neglected subject that should begin before you even select it, as you can tell from several of this very site's postings! Don't become another statistic! To get my thorough and in-depth maintenance guidelines for residential stone installations gimme a holler at: info@findstone.com. You'll be glad you did! Ciao and good luck, Maurizio, Expert Panelist

R1: Dear Mrs. Milcetic, Bush hammered is a technique to create a flat, rough textured surface. It can be done on concrete as well as stone. The bush hammer or chisel is a square surface with multiple points that impact the surface. Chisels come in sizes to fit the smallest carving hammers to large jack hammers. Hand held bush hammers also come in a variety of sizes. Someone in your construction company ought to be familiar with this. Good luck, JVC, Expert Panelist

Q 4067: I have just recently put down a Kashmir White floor down in my kitchen, and am getting Kashmir White countertop and backsplash. At looking at your website, it seems like I havn't made the best choice. Please advise how to clean the countertop and floors. I have seen you need to use soap and water. When you say "soap", what kind of soap are you referring to? Also, I dont believe my floors were sealed, and they have a brownish color in some of the tiles? What should I do about this? Thank you, Baine, Oct 29. Reply

Q 4066: What would the best rpm be for finishing edges and polishing granite? Thanks, Alex, Oct 29. Reply

R1: Dear J.F.: The uretic acid of your cat urine etched (corroded) the surface of the stone. On this left side bar you'll see a link to my "Lord of the Ring" article. Click on it and you'll have yhe answer to your problem. Ciao and good luck, Maurizio, Expert Panelist

R1: Dear Steve,Yes you should continue to apply the same impregnator your fabricator used. This type of material is quite absorbent without it. Regards, Steven, Expert Panelist

Q 4063: Hi – I found some 4” slate tiles that I would like to use for a small bathroom countertop. Is slate a good choice for bathrooms? If not, do you have any suggestions of a material that has the same look as dull slate? Thanks a million! TARA, Oct 24. Reply

R2: Dear Tara, You can use the slate if you like. The bath vanity should be sealed when the installation is complete. Alternate materials are soapstone, honed marble or granite. Regards, Steven, Expert Panelist

R1: Dear Vicky: Forget it, those stains are too old. They'll never come out. Ciao and good luck, Maurizio, Expert Panelist

R1: Dear Ray: Streaking in your new granite countertops? What are you talking about? "How can I polish them than you" ?? ... Can you please translate that for me? By the way, why don't you have the fabricator who made good money out of you solve the problem? If they can't, then gimme a holler at: info@findstone.com Ciao and good luck, Maurizio, Expert Panelist

Q 4060: I am down to two choices of granite, and after reading your site, I am wondering if one of these is a better choice for a kitchen counter: Baltic Brown and Dakota Mahogany? Thank you for your time and advice. Ellen, Oct 24. Reply

R2: Dear Ellen, Both products in their natural state tend to have a fair amount of "pitting". Check with your countertop supplier to see if the slabs are factory "resined". If so then it is a matter of personal preference. Regards, Steven, Expert Panelist

R1: Dear Per: Oh, you're wrong about that! Personally I give more advice about selecting the right stone for the right place (when I have a chance, of course!), than maintenance tips after the cutting of the ribbon (see my answer to the posting 4058 right below yours!) So, I really don't know what and how extensively you read this place, but if you had read it deep enough you would have found out that always tell people to stay away from slate in the kitchen. Now, please, don't ask me what you have to do to make it enjoyable. If I -- or anybody else for that matter -- had an answer to that, I wouldn't be telling people not to use slate, would I! Get rid of it. It's only money! You have an option, though: you can always ask the merchants who sold the slate to you how to make it enjoyable! I'm sure they know everything about it and then some!! Ciao and good luck, Maurizio, Expert Panelist

R3: Dear Per, If you like it just enjoy it. Slate has it's problems but so do many other materials, marble being just one example. A good piece of Welsh slate as I have seen, will last hundreds of years on a kitchen floor and look even better for it. Bryan UK

Worse yet, I have a piece of the material in the garage that I have been using for testing. On one section that I applied five applications of the sealer I placed a glass and dripped a few drops of cranberry juice around the base of the glass. I left it overnight and it resulted in a very visible
stain. Interestingly, I also left a few drops of vegetable oil on both the unsealed section, the 1x, 2x, and the 5x Sealed sections of the test slab. The oil stained the unsealed area and slightly in the 1x sealed section, but did not penetrate any where where I used 2 or 5 applications of the sealer.

Q: Should I buy more of the same sealer and continue applying it until the cows come home? Will I eventually achieve a water tight (cranberry & wine, etc - proof.) surface? Can I change my strategy at this point and apply a petroleum based sealer? Sincere Thanks, Murphy, Oct 24. Reply

R1: Dear Murphy: Water-tight with that stone? Not in your lifetime! Yes, keep sealing it, and sealing it, and sealing it ... It's going to be any day now before it's sealed ... Any day ... "Now, remember, when it comes to natural stone, maintenance is an all too important yet neglected subject that should begin before you even select it, as you can tell from several of this very site's postings! Don't become another statistic! To get my thorough and in-depth maintenance guidelines for residential stone installations gimme a holler at: info@findstone.com. You'll be glad you did!" Now, this is what I tell to most inquirers. As you can't tell, it's right on the money, but, alas, a little too late in your case!
Ciao and good luck, Maurizio, Expert Panelist

Q 4057: I just moved into a new home with travertine floor the in entry hall. I was concerned about the floor absorbing stains (had a previous major problem with a marble floor in a prior house) so asked the builder to seal the floor. He did so but the floor now appears murky as if construction dust had not been properly cleaned from the tiles when the sealer was applied. I would like to have the sealer removed and the tiles cleaned. How can I remove the sealer? After cleaning, I may or may not reseal since in reading responses to other questions re travertine it sounds like travertine floors do not require sealing. Any help will be appreciated. Thanks, Mike, Oct 24. Reply

R2: Dear Mike, You probably need a professional too look at the floor to be sure.
Depending on the type of sealer used, it may be as simple as applying a new coat and buffing the floor until completely dry.
Or the floor will need to be chemically stripped using some pretty caustic chemicals. Either Acetone or Methylene Chloride. Please note both are quite caustic and require proper ventilation and personal protection equipment when used.
Then you can start over with the sealer. Though the travertine itself is quite dense the "fill" and the grout are not. Regards, Steven, Expert Panelist

R1: Dear Mick: Dish soap to clean it and counter-gloss to keep it shiny! ... Quite interesting! Let me guess: whas that the suggestion of you fabricator, or a stone retail outlet near you? Regardless, I'd suggest you to have your fabricator find out what the heck of a stone you actually have (no granite under the sun is blue shaffire, no matter what the invoice of the stone distributor says) and then solve the problem of the dullness. Ciao and good luck, Maurizio, Expert Panelist

Q 4055: I have a 4500 rpm table tile saw which works well on ceramic tiles, but I am now working in marble 12"x12" 's. What blade should I use to avoid edge chips? I saw a MD415 on their web-site listed as best for marble. I don't want to use my tile cutter (score type) on marble. I think it would not break cleanly given the veins in the natural stone. Any other recommendations? Thanks. Mark, Oct 24. Reply

Q 4054: I saw an inquiry about a science lab table. We picked up two from a local high school. They are old. They are oak with a table top that I am trying to identify. Black, looks like marble and someone mentioned soapstone. Without actually seeing it, is there any way to get a closer identification as to what this is. My reason is two-fold...

A) I may use this in a room where my kids may play/eat snacks on it...
B) It has a lustre to it, how do I make it shine again.

It does not appear to be a manmade composite. There were some of those tables there and this one was not one of them. When I knock on it, it sounds like stone. (I compare this to knocking on my soapstone sink in my basement!) I didn't think that soapstone could shine the way this does though.

Thoughts/comments/ simply tests?
Thanks.Mike, Oct 24. Reply

R2: Mike. If the tops were used in a science lab, I doubt that they are of marble, a stone that reacts chemically with any acidic substance. An easy way to determine if the tops are soapstone, or marble is to make some scratches on the bottom side of the slab with a knife or rasp, and collect the resulting dust. (you won't need much.) The dust will feel greasy (soapy) when you rub it between your thumb and finger if it is soapstone, it won't if it is marble. The dust will fizz if you add a drop of hydrochloric, or mureatic acid, or even a strong vinegar, if it is marble, it won't if it is soapstone. If it is marble, and you want a polished finish, you will need to get the top refinished by someone who does this sort of thing. If it is soapstone, you can resand it with wet/dry paper through as fine a grit as you choose, and either let it go at that, or use mineral oil to give it a deep dark luster. Good luck, JVC, Expert Panelist

Q 4053: I have marble floors, shower stalls and countertops of marble. How do I clean them safely? Jervis, Oct 24. Reply

Q 4052: We would like to install travertine marble in our shower we installed tumbled marble on our countertops via your advice that we read.It came out beautiful. We have tile now with no leaks or mildew we need to know if we can install over the exsisting tile, or do we need to remove it totally. We will trust your advice, Geri, Oct 24. Reply

R2: Geri, You could tile over the existing tile. YOu would need to scratch all the tile so that the new setting material could bond to it. Stagger the tile courses so that grout joints don't line up with each other. Regards, Steven, Expert Panelist

R1: Dear Lisa: Yes, of course. "Black Galaxy" -- a gabbro from India and, very definitely, one of the best choices possible for a kitchen countertop (I have one myself for 6 years!) -- is NOT supposed to do what you're reporting. I know exactly what happened to it and how to put a permanent remedy to the situation so that you can enjoy your countertop for the rest of your life and then some! Gimme a holler at: info@findstone.com. I'll be glad to help! Ciao and good luck, Maurizio, Expert Panelist

Q 4050: I am sending you a power point of my kitchen layout, I am planning to use Verde Laura, (imperial Green), (Verde jewel), for my counter top. I lived in Herndon, VA area. Somewhere I read you are in NJ or Penn? I'd like you give me a price fabricate and install? I cook a lot, need low maintain and worry free granite. let me know ASAP. or if you can recommend a local fabricator can be trust and know what they doing, I'd be appreciated. Thanks Ling, Oct 24. Reply

Q 4049: Can you recommend a stone I can hand carve or pneumatic if I have to, that would have low water absorption and safe to use as a birdbath. I have access to Texas Red Rose Granite from Marble Falls Texas but it seems to me that that might be very absorptive. I am thinking an alabaster or a low grain marble would absorb the least. Is this right? Thanks Leslie, Oct 24. Reply

Q 4048: I am about to mosaic my existing bathroom sink and countertop - the sink is porcelain, the countertop is tile that was coated with "Duraglaze". I'm not sure which adhesive/grout will work best for this. Any suggestions? What is the best way to rough up the surface of the countertop to promote adhesion? Any ideas would be appreciated. Thanks, Kristy, Oct 24. Reply 

R1: Dear Kim: The shower stall -- due to the way you're describing it to us -- must be ripped out and redone: you jhave a lot of water under those travertine tiles! The good news is that you don't have to spend the money to do it. The house inspector should have been knowledgeable enough to realize that (if I did it without even seeing it!!). He's (his insurance, rather) supposed to pay for it. I just finshed helping a homeowner in court to win an identical case! About the stone restoration contractor, be very, VERY cautious and do NOT take chances. Unfortunately there are lots of quacks out there! I wrote a very comprehensive article titled "How to Shop for a bona fide Stone Restoration Contractor" that will give you all the intelligence you need to tell a champ from a chomp! Gimme a holler at: info@findstone.com. For your stone's sake, you'll be glad you did! You can also ask me how to get my comprehensive maintenance guidelines on residential stone installations. Remember, when it comes to natural stone, maintenance is an all too important yet neglected subject that should begin before you even select it, as you can tell from several of this very site's postings! Don't become another statistic! Ciao and good luck, Maurizio, Expert Panelist

Q 4045: I found a granite that I want and the fabricator is not able to get it for me in 1 1/4". The name they used on it was Mello Yellow and it comes from Brazil. Do you have any idea of the granite I am talking about? And what the "real" name is for it? I would really appreciate your input in this matter!! JT, Oct 24. Reply

R1: Dear John: OK, here it goes: don't even consider for a split second to hire the fabricator that you defined as "seemed very knowledgeable". That guy does not have a clue. The resining process (which does not include any baking!) is done in the factories only with very porous "granites" in order to reduce their absorbency rate. Blue Pearl can't be resined because it won't take any resin in (the resin must go inside the stone, not on top of it). Blue Pearl, which is either a Larvikite (the lighter color) or ar an Anorthosite (Blue Pearl GT) typically doesn't need to be sealed. Of course, all the other fabricators told you tha they seal it all the time. But then again, they also believe that's granite! And besides, they have sealed their brains, too! After they've been thoroughly washed by the "salesmen", that is! I wrote a very interesting article on "How to Shop for a Kitchen Countertop" that will give you all the intelligence you need to venture yourself with confidence in the stone industry jungle! Gimme a holler at: info@findstone.com. You'll be glad you did! You can also ask me how to get my comprehensive maintenance guidelines on residential stone installations. Remember, when it comes to natural stone, maintenance is an all too important yet neglected subject that should begin before you even select it, as you can tell from several of this very site's postings! Don't become another statistic! Ciao and good luck, Maurizio, Expert Panelist

R1: Dear Joe: Phooooleeeese!! :-) Ciao and good luck, Maurizio, USA, Expert Panelist

R1: Dear Joan: Rip it out. You'll be glad you did! Ciao and good luck, Maurizio, Expert Panelist

I looked at several countertops, and have to say it is not at all like corian, which I don't find terribly attractive. The engineered granite I saw was so similar to the natural granite of the same color and pattern, it was difficult for me to tell the difference. Is this typical of engineered granite, or was that a fluke?

I am attracted by the idea of a durable product that costs less then natural granite and is easy to maintain. However, I don't want to put in something that is going to make a large difference in resale value of the home. I know natural granite counters generally adds quite a bit of value over corian. But have no idea how this new product is looked upon as far as quality/resale value.
Any thought or opinions? Also, is there any difference between engineered and cultured granite? Thank you, Jessica, Oct 24. Reply

R1: Dear Jessica: Well I really don't think that $5 or so less per square foot (if that much!) makes something like engineered stone "less expensive" then natural stone. Your builder information is wrong (what a surprise!) Egineered stone is not any more durable and it does scratch easier than "granite" (althoug it's still to be considered scratch resistent). Since the matrix of engineered stone is natural stone, the cleaning requirements are exactly the same as natural stone. As far as staining goes, there are lots of "granites" that won't stain and that won't need to be sealed. And yes, natural stone does add much more value to the estate than a miser 5 bucks a foot. Of course, the problem is how to select the right "granite". You GC is certainly not the right guy to do that! I wrote a very interesting article on "How to Shop for a Kitchen Countertop" that will give you all the intelligence you need to venture yourself with confidence in the stone industry jungle! Gimme a holler at: info@findstone.com. You'll be glad you did! You can also ask me how to get my comprehensive maintenance guidelines on residential stone installations. Remember, when it comes to natural stone, maintenance is an all too important yet neglected subject that should begin before you even select it, as you can tell from several of this very site's postings! Don't become another statistic! Ciao and good luck, Maurizio, Expert Panelist

R1: Dear Javier: No way, Javier! Ciao and good luck, Maurizio, Expert Panelist

R1: Dear Jack: To the best of my knowledge, no. Ciao and good luck, Maurizio, Expert Panelist

R1: Dear Jeff: Either way, really. It much depends from the skills of the operator. Not many know how to float a wall properly. Ciao and good luck, Maurizio, USA, Expert panelist

R1: Dear Houston: When it comes to natural stone there's seldom a home-brewed concoction that one can come up with. The mildew problem is most definitely one of the most glamorous instances. Of all the "wonderful" things you listed, only MB-9 was formulated to do the job without damaging the stone surface. To the best of my knowledge it's the only product of its kind on the market. It has to be rinsed, though. I always suggest to apply it 10 minutes before the first one takes a shower. In that way the rinsing will be automatic! Ciao and good luck, Maurizio, Expert Panelist

R1: Dear Henry: There are special acid treatments available. The marble surface won't be shiny anymore, but it'll work. If you wish, I could do some research for you to find a supplier. Gimme a holler at: info@findstone.com. Ciao and good luck, Maurizio, Expert Panelist

R1: Dear Grossman: In which trade do you operate?! I hope you're not going to tell me that you're involved with stone, somehow!! Rip out the floor just because is not like it was when it was brand-new anymore?! Wow, some solution! Get hold of a professional stone restoration contractor to re-hone those floors (no, there won't be any dust). Now, be very, VERY cautious and do NOT take chances. Unfortunately there are lots of quacks out there! I wrote a very comprehensive article titled "How to Shop for a bona fide Stone Restoration Contractor" that will give you all the intelligence you need to tell a champ from a chomp! Gimme a holler at: info@findstone.com. For your stone's sake, you'll be glad you did! You can also ask me how to get my comprehensive maintenance guidelines on residential stone installations. Remember, when it comes to natural stone, maintenance is an all too important yet neglected subject that should begin before you even select it, as you can tell from several of this very site's postings! Don't become another statistic! Ciao and good luck, Maurizio, USA, Expert Panelist

R1: Ginger. I have had clients use different solutions (tea, tobacco, etc) to stain a light crème colored limestone before sealing. This particular limestone is very porous, and we have even used water colors to paint relief carvings getting a great pastel color affect. However, all limestone is not the same, and if your surround is all ready sealed, or it is of a very compacted, low porosity stone, you probably wont have much success. This is one of these deals where you first need to test your chosen procedure on a scrap of stone or an out of the way area on the surround to see what the results are going to be before jumping in all the way. Good luck, JVC, Expert Panelist

Q 4033: I have a travertine floor new, and it was sealed with silox 8 3 coats. My grandson spilled Orange juice on it and i wiped it up immediately and washed with warm soapy water, but it has left a look of not polished so after much cleaning with just water and soap it remains the same. I resealed it 3 times and no change. Help, Oct 24. Reply

Q 4032: Could you tell me if it would be possible to get a solitary board with different stone marbles.What is the price ? Could you send it ? Sim, Oct 24. Reply

Q 4030: I'm looking to install Avanza countertops in my kitchen. This product is carried through our local Lowe's Home Improvement Store and is manufactured by US Stone. Does anyone have any information on this product and a timeline that I would be facing with measurement and installation. Paula, Oct 24. Reply

R1: Dear Mary: Like you said, there are no data available to answer your question. Ciao and good luck, Maurizio, USA, Expert Panelist

Q 4028: We have an old table with an alabaster top which has been out in all weathers for several years. It has developed stains from dirt and moisture. What is the best way to clean off at least some of these darker stains. Thanks, Chris, Australia, Oct 24. Reply

Q 4027: I am a landscape architect working with the University of California Davis. We are working on a project that will use large slabs of stone for informal seating and a fountain. The project must use stone quarried and fabricated within 500 miles of Sacramento CA. We are looking for earth toned colors of granite or other stone, but have only been able to locate the Cold Springs Granite quarry in Raymond CA. This quarry only does white and black stone. Do you have an suggestions on stone quarries or sources. Best regards, Charles , Oct 24. Reply

I've purchased a travertine "Sunset" (I believe some call it Golden Senena(spelling?)...) to install in my master bath. It has a wave of gold and white through it, very beautiful for the Mediterranean look we are striving for. The tile is honed, filled, and polished 18''x18''. You said that travertine is not very absorbent but when I apply water to the "polished" surface the colors of the tile soon come out. Is my tile very porous and if so, should we reconsider a master shower install? I say "polished" because it does not look shiny unless the water is applied. Perhaps powdery from the fabrication?

I picked up a dozen tiles and noticed that there are some very small chips on the honed edges. Is this to be expected and will the grout help to hide? Some of the top fills also seem a little rough. Can the semi rough surface be polished up and the filled gaps smoothed out in the grouting process?

We want the colors to stand out. I would like to purchase a sealer from you that would enhance the stone's characteristics. Please let me know what you would recommend and how to purchase from you (I could not find a link at this site). Also to attain a high shine can the sealer help with this? Where can I get the MB-5 and MB-3 cleaners that you mentioned? Do you sell them?

Last question, should the tile be sealed prior to final polishing / cleaning? I read on a web site that recommended sealing the stone tile top prior to grouting (being careful to not get in grout cracks) to prevent grout color leakage on top of the stone. Recommended?

Thanks for your time and Best Regards,- Larry, Oct 24. Reply

Q 4025: We are having tumbled stone installed for our kitchen backsplash. Any problems if they are installed butted against each other or should a small spacing for the grout be left between the 4" square tiles. Should sanded or unsanded grout be used. What treatment should be given after the istallation so that the grout and tiles won't stain with oil or vapors from cooking. Juan, Oct 24. Reply

Q 4024: Recently I have had several bids for travertine installation from different contractors. Some say that wire lathe is the best installation method on my kitchen floor because of a 3/4" high spot in the kitchen nook area. There is a 4'x2' corner in the kitchen nook area that is concrete (kitchen dimensions are 12'X17' with island and cabinets already installed). The rest of the floor is a raised foundation that consists of 1"x5" planks and 5/8" plywood on top of that. Others have said that 1/4 or 1/2" wonderboard or backerboard is just fine. These people said they would just float up to the high spot in the corner by using mastic or thinset underneath the wonderboard. My main concern is cracking. I am not too concerned with uneven tile as much as I am having the tile crack at the wonderboard seams. Which method is preferred? Has anyone experienced travertine cracking due to non-flat wonderboard installations? Any help would be appreciated. Alien, Oct 24. Reply

Q 4023: Maurizio we are in the process of looking at slate for a shower. The slate is from China and the various colors are gorgeous. We would like some advice about using Color Enhancer to bring out the natural color and than using a sealer to help reduce some of the problems that may result from using slate in a shower. Is it advisable to use a color enhancer first, let it cure and then go with a sealer? Charity, Oct 24. Reply

Q 4022: My son recently purchased a coffee table with a hexagonal slate top. The slate is a dark charcoal gray, is very rough-surfaced and is sealed. There are some round light gray stains and a few scratches in the slate. What is the best was to return the top to a uniform color. He has tried to clean it with tri-sodium phosphate and other "home made" cleaners, with no avail. Do we need to strip the top and reseal? Ed, Oct 24. Reply

Q 4020: I'm bidding a construction clean-up in a retail space and they have a limestone floor which looks like it was finished with something other than a penetrating sealer and it has some scratches in it and the specs call for the floor to be clean and looking new is there anything I can do to get this floor looking new without doing a major job on it. Please get back to me as soon as possible because they want the bid in right away.Bob, Oct 24. Reply

Q 4019: We have a new residential villa with the entire exterior tiled with natural brown stone which I was told is of limestone family.

We would like to protect the same with some kind of protective and transparent coating from becoming stained and decolourized. It is noticed that wherever there is water spray (from irrigation sprinklers) the colour of the stone has changed.

Can you suggest name of some good coating material and their source? Borah, Oct 24. Reply

R1: Dear Carolyn: I wrote a very interesting article on "How to Shop for a Kitchen Countertop" that will give you all the intelligence you need to venture yourself with confidence in the stone industry jungle! Gimme a holler at: info@findstone.com. You'll be glad you did! You can also ask me how to get my comprehensive maintenance guidelines on residential stone installations. Remember, when it comes to natural stone, maintenance is an all too important yet neglected subject that should begin before you even select it, as you can tell from several of this very site's postings! Don't become another statistic! Ciao and good luck, Maurizio, USA, Expert Panelist

R1: Dear Carolyn: Are you sure that there's nothing else you want to know?! Don't you think it should be fair for you to ask those "few questions" to the fabricator who eventually is going to make money out of you? And if they are not expert enough to answer those questions for you, can you think of any good reason why anybody else should spend the considerable amount of time (not to mention the skills) necessary to make such an in-depth research for you for free? If you can come up with a convincing answer to my latter question, then, maybe, I'll help you out. If not, gimme a holler at: info@findstone.com. Ciao and good luck, Maurizio, Expert Panelist

R1: Dear Betsy: Which goes to prove three important issues:
1. That sealing marble is a totally useless practice that doesn't do squat to protect it from its only real "enemy", pH active chemicals.
2. That the dealer and contractor who sold the marble to you don't know the first thing about its proper maintenance (as usual!)
3. That the dealer and contractor you've been dealing with gave you so much intelligence about stone, that now you don't even know what you're looking at and what to do with it! You don't need to replace your vanity top. It can be easily repaired, but it is not a DIYer project by a long shot. You'll need the services of a professional stone refinisher. Now, be very, VERY cautious and do NOT take chances. Unfortunately there are lots of quacks out there! I wrote a very comprehensive article titled "How to Shop for a bona fide Stone Restoration Contractor" that will give you all the intelligence you need to tell a champ from a chomp! Gimme a holler at: info@findstone.com. For your stone's sake, you'll be glad you did! You can also ask me how to get my comprehensive maintenance guidelines on residential stone installations. Remember, when it comes to natural stone, maintenance is an all too important yet neglected subject that should begin before you even select it, as you can tell from several of this very site's postings! Don't become another statistic! Ciao and good luck, Maurizio, Expert Panelist

R1: Dear Barb: Unfortunately, without seeing it, I haven't gotten a clue! I honestly never heard about such a thing! What did your fabricator say to you? I am honestly interested. Now, remember, when it comes to natural stone, maintenance is an all too important yet neglected subject that should begin before you even select it, as you can tell from several of this very site's postings! Don't become another statistic! To get my thorough and in-depth maintenance guidelines for residential stone installations gimme a holler at: info@findstone.com. You'll be glad you did! Ciao and good luck, Maurizio, Expert Panelist

Q 4013: What do you think about using Raw Silk Ivory as a large kitchen island? Would it be too porous and stain easily? My top three choices are Shavakashi Light, Ghilbi and Raw Silk Ivory for the kitchen island and I need to make a decision very soon, Oct 24. Reply

Q 4011: My breccia oniciata vanity top has become dull. I think my cleaning people may have used some harmful chemicals on it recently. It is 18 years old, and I don't know if it ever had a sealer on it. What can I do or use to bring back the shine. I was wondering if I could use a paste wax on it, or sealer. Thank you for your help. Al, Oct 24. Reply

Q 4010: You are very kind to help people. I have an office building with approximately 50 people working in it. I would like to put down a durable attractive surface that is not SLIIPERY WHEN WET. I was hoping you could give me some ideas. Preferably in a bright color, ie not what I have seen so far in slate.Granite looks terrific , but I am paranoid about someone slipping and busting their ass , then suing mine. Mitchell, Oct 24. Reply

Q 4009: A client wants to hang a random slab of marble from the ceiling in their shop can you suggest any safe systems for this - the slab will not be backing onto a wall. I would appreciate your help ASAP. Adam, Oct 24. Reply 

Q 4007: I had just insatalled a granite stone on my kitchen counter top . I have a stain most likely it is oil stain how do I get rid of it . Is this going to be a problem for me as I cook a lot especially Asian style cooking. I have Beta Rosa granite stone . Please advice. Thanks, Moitry, Oct 23. Reply

Q 4006: How can i remove a rust stain from a bathroom vanity top? Nora, Oct 23. Reply

Q 4005:   I'm in the process of putting down a new travertine floor going out to the pool. We live in Florida and on the Gulf waters. Do I need to seal this new floor or not? Thanks Doug, Oct 23. Reply

Q 4004: Do you have any information about Green Marinache Granite? We are thinking about purchasing this particular one. We will have light cherry cabinets. Thanks. Richard, Oct 23. Reply

R1: Dear Rick: I take it that your fabricator were not very convincing with their recommendations! What did they tell you, to use "Windex" or water and dish soap?! ... (By the way, I hope they didn't seal your Verde Peacock!) You have very good resons to be concerned, because when it comes to natural stone, maintenance is an all too important yet neglected subject that should begin before you even select it, as you can tell from several of this very site's postings! Don't become another statistic! To get my thorough and in-depth maintenance guidelines for residential stone installations gimme a
holler at: info@findstone.com. You'll be glad you did! Ciao and good luck, Maurizio, Expert Panelist

R1: Dear Dan: Get real, will you! You need special power tools (that can't be rented) and very expensive blades (one blade alone is more expensive than paying a pro do the job for you!), not to mention the necessary skill. Just forget about it! :-)
Now the question is: Do you know how to select the right "granite" for your kitchen? I don't have to try to "sell" you anything: this very site is soaked with the tears of people who didn't do their homework before selecting the right type of "granite"!
Now, remember, when it comes to natural stone, maintenance is an all too important yet neglected subject that should begin before you even select it, as you can tell from several of this very site's postings! Don't become another statistic! To get my thorough and in-depth maintenance guidelines for residential stone installations gimme a holler at: info@findstone.com. You'll be glad you did! Ciao and good luck, Maurizio, Expert Panelist 

Q 4001: I just installed new marble, but I want to give it a final polish with a buffer, need to know what product to use? Robert, Oct 23. Reply

Q 4000: What is the best method of installing Granite? I have seen some that put strips of wood down before the Granite and others put a board surface down and then put the Granite down. We are thinking about putting Granite on our Kitchen counter top. I would like to have some one that can do a good job and do it the right way. I have seen some jobs that the seams do not look very good. I would appreciate your answers to these questions. Thanks. Russell, Oct 23. Reply

Q 3099: The marble we bought for our bathroom has imperfections and my husband would like to seal it. Is there a way we can put a sealer on the marble and what can we use? Shari, Oct 23. Reply 

Q 3098: Hi, we have about 2232 square feet of concrete decking around our in ground pool all of which is inside a screen room it is over 10 years old now, and about 50% is under cover . the original concrete had a light cream color added to the mix when laid ,which looks good when it has just been power or chemically washed. However we live in north Florida where we have a lot of sun and rain during the summer and it seems like I am always cleaning the deck to keep it looking good and to stop the mildew, I tried painting the under cover area which has helped the mildew a bit but it still seems to be constantly dirty looking. Can you suggest anything we could do to cover the deck which would look good be non slip and low maintenance, which would not cost us a fortune ? any suggestions are welcome. Sheila, Oct 23. Reply

Q 3095: What is the proper way to attach a granite table top to a pedestal base? T.L. Minor, Oct 23. Reply

Q 3094: We wonder if you can help?We have unearthed a sandstone floor in our utility room which for over 100 years has been covered with linoleum.The floor is in excellent condition having had two layers of lino and two carpets covering it for most of its life but there is a large amount of old glue spread all over giving it an abnormal appearance.Could anyone recommend a safe way of removing the glue.We are willing to use elbow grease if necessary! All suggestions would be most appreciated. Ann, Oct 23. Reply

Q 3093: How do you get white bleach spots off of a non-sealed black slate table top? The bleach bottle left huge white spots where it was sitting? Doesnt wash off. My boss is very upset, Vince, Oct 23. Reply

Q 3092: My wife and I had settled on Giallo Veneziano in our family room and I called in an installer yesterday. He did a good job trying to sell Turkish travertine and downplayed Giallo's virtues. Furthermore, my wife was disconforted by this remark you had made in one of your earlier postings re: Giallo Veneziano ("Giallo Veneziano" is traded as granite (yeah, right!). It's rather absorbent and will require some serious sealing before using it. I don't know "Pocono Green", but the other two stones you've listed are a much better choice than "Giallo Veneziano" from a maintenance point of view. They are both much denser and require no sealing at all. Maurizio, USA Anyways, this is a low traffic area and we can impregnate w/ sealer if necessary. Is this still a bad choice ?, Vishwanth, Oct 23. Reply

Q 3091: I have an antique chest with a marble top. The marble is broken and I would like to know the proper way to repair it. thanks, Wanda, Oct 23. Reply

Q 2924: I was wondering if you had any luck inquiring about the monument business? Could you give me any advice or direction from your own experience. Right now I'm just trying to get started by engraving brick. A friend offered a rather large fund raising project if I want it. I have only been able to find a couple of web sites that offer a limited amount of advice. I'm an Allstate agent looking for a change! Dean, Oct 9, Reply 

Q 2847: Interested in the marketing research of the Stone Industry. What do I need to do to acquire this info.Michael, Oct 4, Reply

R1: Dear Tracey Thank you for your enquiry. Flexible based adhesive use will not allow stones to move freely when there is such large movement in substrates. It's purpose is to accommodate minimal movement only.

The reasons substrates move is varied and many. From dry weather for months and shrinkages in the underlying ground to concrete bases not being correctly cured (i.e. 1 day per mm of slab) when using natural stones.

It would be impossible for me to ascertain this "from behind a computer", but addressing your problem of filling in the crack is what is to hand.

There are a number of fillers and the most commonly used in Australia in the stonemasonry field is a mix of sandstone dust and a glue such as Araldite 4217, but these are only used for fissure cracks and very small anomalies.

However, unfortunately, this will only fill the gap and will not give a seamless look. Short of removing those tiles and having them replaced, you will always see the seam that you repair.

The preferable method is to have the damaged tiles cut out and replaced.If we can help you any further please don't hesitate to contact us. Cheers FindStone

Q 3089: I'm interested in buying some bulk amount of tumbled and/or polished stones, native to New Jersey. We have some 3rd graders at a newly re-opened school planting their own garden. We thought the stones would act as a "water" feature...So my questions are: What are some common stones from New Jersey and can I buy tumbled or polished stones someeeeplace here in our state and how much should I expect to have to pay for them? Thank you. L. Spada, Oct 22. Reply

R1: Dear John: Polished marble, travertine, "granite" (the right one though!). Or, hone-finished marble, travertine. Or, tumbled marble, travertine. Stay away from limestone and slate. You can get my free maintenance guidelines for residential stone installation by hitting the link at the bottom of this page's left side bar titled: "Maurizio's Dos and Don'ts". Treasure them; you'll be glad you did! Ciao and good luck, Maurizio, USA, Expert Panelist

R1: Jerald: As usual, there are no standards about that. What else is new, in the stone industry! As far as I am concerned, 1/32' to 1/16" is just about the right size for a seam. More than that ... try to work things out with your fabricator. You can get my free maintenance guidelines for residential stone installation by hitting the link at the bottom of this page's left side bar titled: "Maurizio's Dos and Don'ts". Treasure them; you'll be glad you did! Ciao and good luck, Maurizio,USA, Expert Panelist

Q 3085: The whoever is Vince Granacher and I fabricate solid surface in Jasper, Indiana and let a stone fabricator in Evansville, Indiana handle any "granite" requests that my customers may have. (I cannot afford the equipment for doing granite.) I noticed in one of your answers to questions that you liked soapstone for kitchen sinks but not for countertops. Could you elaborate? I have a customer that loves the look of soapstone as it does not have the shiny look of most granite samples she has seen, but still is natural stone. I have advised her of the softness issue with soapstone, but this to her is not an issue that is any worse than the Corian that it would replace. The upside to soapstone is that I can fabricate using carbide cutters like I use in solid surface. Any other downsides besides softness? Bram, Oct 22. Reply

R2: Dear Bram: Soapstone is soft (VERY) and not absorbent (it won't take in any impregnator sealer in). If a homeowner really uses her or his countertop, it will scratch and nicks like crazy. To "repair" the scratches, producers of soapstone encourage people to mask them by rubbing mineral oil on the stone surface. Since, like we've seen before, the darn thing won't absorb anything, the mineral oil will be lingering right about on the surface of the stone. Now, if someone is heavily into take-outs or reservations instead of cooking, that wouldn't be a problem; but if one cooks, then, unless one likes his or her food to taste like Oklahoma crude ... The same problem does not exist (or is much less dramatic) in the case of a sink. Nobody puts food in a sink (I think ...). Ciao and good luck,Maurizio, Expert Panelist

R1: Dear Karen: Cultured marble (plastic) on a floor?? That's a first all right! I didn't even know that they made tiles of that stuff! Mixed with hardwood?? Wow, what a brilliant idea! After all you guys did to those cultured marble tiles, I do believe (although plastic is not really my field of expertise) that the only solution is to replace them. Ciao and good luck, Maurizio, USA, Expert Panelist

Q 3083: WHAT FAMILY DOES QUARTZITE FALL UNDER GRANITE, SANDSTONE, MARBLE?

I WAS GIVEN SOME QUARTZITE THAT I HAD INSTALLED IN MY KITCHEN FOR COUNTER TOPS AND IT IS PINK WITH WHITE RIPPLES THROUGH IT. IT HAS A SEMI SHINY SURFACE. THE PERSON WHO GAVE IT TOME DID NOT KNOW MUCH ABOUT IT. THERE ARE ALSO STAINS (LOOKS LIKE DRIPPING WATER, WHERE IT HAD BEEN STORED OUT SIDE. CAN YOU TELL ME IF THIS CAN BE RESTORED, OR WHATEVER IT NEEDS TO TAKE IT OUT? Bridg, Oct 22. Reply

R1: Dear Bridg: Did you actually pay money for that thing? If so, I feel deeply sorry for you. Ciao and good luck, Maurizio, USA, Expert Panelist

Q 3082: HOW CAN I CLEAN MY BLACK GRANITE KITCHEN COUNTERTOP DAILY WITHOUT USING HARMFUL, TOXIC MATERIALS? SAME QUESTION ONLY FOR A BLACK MARBLE BATHROOM VANITY TOP, Suzi, Oct 21. Reply

Q 3081: I am in the process of remodeling my kitchen. I have a reasonably sized kitchen and have already ordered the cabinets. I have seen a Granite Countertop displayed called "Giblee" with an Ogee edge and it looked beautiful. My cabinets are Honey Spice Maple (a couple of shades darker than natural). What should I look for ? Is this a suitable color for a countertop ? My kitchen will be U shaped with a "step-up" on one side. The first side is 62 inches, the next side is 114 inches and the last side is 77 inches (and a step-up). Obviously the sides will overlap as they meet in the corner. There is also another smaller countertop across the kitchen which is 18 inches, a 30 inch cooktop, and another 18 inch counter. I am located in NJ. Is there any way to avoid unsightly seems ? and Finally, what kind of price range, installed, should I consider for this Giblee counterop ? Scott, NJ, Oct 21. Reply

Q 3080: Is it necessary to support granite under a drop-in stove top? The supports, right now are provided by the cabinet frame only. Lynda, Oct 21. Reply

Q 3079: I have Giallo Veneziano countertop. I am trying to find out what type of cleaners to use on it and what not to use to clean it??. Can you please recommend a cleaner which disinfects? Thanks, Lombardi, Oct 21. Reply

Q 3078: Hi. I made a 2' x 2' decorative mosaic floor insert using porcelain mosaic tile on mesh. I had a professional tiler install it on a floor at the same time time he installed the surrounding 12" ceramic tiles. The porcelain tiles in the mosaic were about 1/8 inch thinner than the large surrounding ceramic tiles. He used thinset adhesive, but didn't make it thicker under the mosaic. Thus, the mosaic insert is not level with the surrounding tiles. When I asked why he didn't increase the amount of thinset under the mosaic, he replied that he could not because thinset has to be thin for strength. Is this true? What should have been done in this case to achieve a level surface when materials of different thicknesses are used? Thanks. - Madeline, Oct 21. Reply

Q 3077: I bought a necklace at a yardsale. It appears to be handcut marble beads. The colors range from a milky white with the slightest purple vein to deep purple colors with deep variegated purple veins. The strand was so long and heavy that I have subsequently made it into 2 necklace and earrings. The only marble that I can find that sounds similar is Bulgarian Moura marble, but it doesn't quite fit the color characteristics. Any ideas on what I have? Brenda, Oct 21. Reply

R1: Try a solvent based sealer but call manufactuer first toll free to see if it's been used on similar installations. Best, TP

Q 3075: I have a white kitchen tile table that has a chip in one tile and a huge crack in another. Is there any chance of repairing this? I have found the tiles at the store are thicker than the ones in my table.Karen, Oct 21. Reply

Q 3074: I'm hoping someone in your community can assist. Several years back a contractor installed cement steps from my front porch to my driveway. There is one step, a curved walkway, three steps, a platform and four more steps. This contactor's expertise was in carpentry. That being said, the stairs are an eyesore and I'd like to cover them with something. I've investigated granite and it would be very expensive. Do you know of any brick/tile or epoxy that can cover cement and have a more attractive look. The other thing I should mention is that all of the heights and widths are not the same. The cement was drying too fast and so sizing is an issue. I've even considered blasting them out, but this is very expensive. Thanks for any advice/information. Judy, Oct 21. Reply

R1: Dear Patti: Of course! Terrazzo is nothing but marble chips held together by a cementious bonding. You need the services of a stone restoration contractor to re-grind and refinish your terrazzo floor. Ciao and good luck, Maurizio, Expert Panelist, USA

I can calculate the maximum overhang for various sized and shaped bases, but I suspect that the criteria for maximum overhang is very different for a round section, compared to a rectangular counter overhang. Also, a square pedistal that supports the top at four corners is very different than a round pedistal that supports the top all around its perimeter. This is very complicated. I suspect my best hope is to get some advice from experienced experts.

I don't want to have the top break or sag. Any advice would be greatly appreciated, Mary, Oct 21. Reply

Q 3071: I am a stone supplier in Texas. I have had numerous questions concerning the true classification of travertine, limestone, sandstone, and marble. Is travertine a metamorphic limestone? Sandstone an oolitic limestone? Dolomite a condensed limestone? Travertine an arkosic sandstone? Finally, a customer told me that stonehenge is made out of granite. I looked up on the internet that it is made up of Sarsen ( a hardened sandstone from England ) and Bluestone ( an igneous basalt from Wales ). Would you please clarify. Derek, Oct 21. Reply

R2: Dear Dereck: Quite an unusual request from a stone supplier! Travertine is, well ... travertine. It is not limestone (although it's the same make up) The difference is the way it was formed. Sandstone has nothing to do with limestone, since its a silicate rock, opposed to calcite-based. Dolomite is dolomite (many a time is classified as marble) but it's mostly made of Magnesium Calcium arbonate. The information about Stonehenge that you found on the internet is correct. You can get my free maintenance guidelines for residential stone installation by hitting the link at the bottom of this page's left side bar titled: "Maurizio's Dos and Don'ts". Treasure them; you'll be glad you did! Ciao and good luck, Maurizio, Expert Panelist, USA

R1: Dear Daniel: Use a solution 1:2 of bleach and water. Ciao and good luck, Maurizio, Expert Panelist

Q 3068: I recently had a granite kitchen counter top installed. This morning I found two circular stains in the granite probably caused by salid oil. how can I get rid of these stains. Thanks for any advice you can give; Celeste, Oct 21. Reply

R2: Dear Celest: You're going to have to poultice the oil stains out by following the guidelines on stain removal that you'll find on this page's side bar. You can get my free maintenance guidelines for residential stone installation by hitting the link at the bottom of this page's left side bar titled: "Maurizio's Dos and Don'ts". Treasure them; you'll be glad you did! Ciao and good luck, Maurizio, Expert Panelist

R1: To specify a kitchen counter:
Material e.g. granite
Color / Trade name e.g. Absolute Black
Surface finish: e.g. polished
Thickness e.g. 3/4", 1 1/4"
Edges: select from www.findstone.com/edge1.htm
No. of drop-in sinks e.g. 0/1/2/3
No. of undermount sinks e.g. 0/1/2/3
No. of stove cutouts e.g. 0/1/2/3
Divide your kitchen counter into rectangular pieces and give the dimensions and length of polished edge needed of each piece e.g. Piece 1: 25 1/2" x 96" with Polished edge: 96")
Dimension of backsplash:
Any special remarks:
Delivery location with zip code and phone no:

R1: Dear Brandell: You're going to have to poultice the stain out by following the guidelines on stain removal that you'll find on this page's side bar. You can get my free maintenance guidelines for residential stone installation by hitting the link at the bottom of this page's left side bar titled: "Maurizio's Dos and Don'ts". Treasure them; you'll be glad you did! Ciao and good luck, Maurizio, Expert Panelist

Q 3064: We have just had Volga Blue granite installed in our kitchen. This granite has a very shiny finish. It looks beautiful. There are some dull spots on the top of the counter around the edge. It looks like it needs to be polished. We are calling the fabricator but wanted to know what you think. Also how do I maintain this finish? The fabricator used a stone polish. Laurie, Oct 20. Reply

Q 3063: We want to build our house out of limestone (top to bottom), however need more info eg : life span, if heat/cold resistant (we're in theBlack Sea region), outside maintenance, which limestone to use, does it stain, etc.

I have contacted Findstone for info on prices etc to buy from a Turkish company, so at this stage just thinking of pro's and con's. We want to make a comparison with limestone and brick.

Your info would be greatly appreciated. Thanks Kim, Oct 20. Reply

Q 3062: I have been given the task of repairing a family heirloom. This heirloom is a blue Austrailian jade statue. The statue is broken in about four places. It is aproximatly two feet in height and while I know that this is not exactly the kind of question you usually answer, I was wondering if you could posibly suggest a web site that sells products for this sort of thing. However, if you know of an epoxy that I could use that would minimize the apearence of the cracks that would be wonderful. Dan, Oct 20. Reply

Q 3061: I live in Hong Kong and am doing up my kitchen,I have choosen a black granitefor my counter tops and performed the lemon Juice test ,the lemon Juice did not get absorbed ,but after I cleaned up I saw a light grey stain , which you menion is etching of the stone, I really would like to like to know what I should do should I choose anther granite or is this the problem with all black granite. thanks Kavita.Oct 20. Reply

Thank you for your reply, I was so keen on black ,so I searched a lot of shops for the black that would not etch,belive it or not could not find one, none of the suppliers could guarantee that the stone would not etch ,it was unbelivable as my mum has black granite in her kitchen in both houses and they do not have any problem of course they are in India, and I am in Hong Kong. I have finally decided to go with Verde UbaTuba and that passed the lemon juice test. I am now in search of a good cleaner for my stone, I can only imagine I will have to get it from the US as no one seems to have any Idea. can you shed any light on this one. This site is great I am so glad I found it. thanks again Kavita.

Q 3059: We have just had a new slate floor installed in our basement. After 1 week, we applied 2 coats of sealer to slate & grout (Miton 42 - acrylic solvent sealer) as instructed by the installer. About a week after the sealer, my husband was cleaning up some construction dust, etc. and mopped some of the new floor with a mop that contained much soap (from a previous clean up of the old cement basement floor) DUHH! Now the some of the grout on the slate floor has white residue in the "mopped" areas (presumably it is soap?). I have cleaned the grout multiple times with water and it seems to be helping a bit, but whenever it dries, the white appears again. What I'm wondering is if
we could apply more sealer over these areas (would it get rid of the "whiteness") or do I just keep cleaning with water until it is all removed. HELP! Jerry, Oct 20. Reply

Finally, I'm dealing with what appears to be a good fabricator/installer. We haven't agreed on a final price, etc. Any advice on how to deal with them? They want a 60% downpayment, etc. What is a common practice?I know I've asked a lot of questions, any advice you can give would be wonderful.Thanks, John, Oct 20. Reply

R1: Dear John: You're right, Formula 409 is a well known "stone killer". True geological granite is light grey or pinkish or whitish with darker speckles. Does your "Waterfall" look like that? Then it's NOT a true geological granite. But that doesn't mean that's a "bad" stone. Many a "granite" are better than granite for the intent and purposes of a kitchen countertop. 50% down is pretty much standard. How to deal with your fabricator?  To get a web link gimme a holler at: info@findstone.com. Ciao and good luck, Maurizio, Expert Panelist

R1: Dear Jim: I don't know this "Sparks Stone Glamour" product. Is it a strippable topical finish, or a permanent one (Urethane-based or something)? Without that piece of information I can't give you any advice. For daily cleaning you can get my free maintenance guidelines for residential stone installation by hitting the link at the bottom of this page's left side bar titled: "Maurizio's Dos and Don'ts". Treasure them; you'll be glad you did! Ciao and good luck, Maurizio, Expert Panelist

R1: John. Find a good stone restoration company, Pay them for a consultation and have them look at the situation, and then follow their advice. Any problem of this nature needs someone familiar with the possible solutions to actually "eyeball" the situation. Good luck, JVC, Expert Panelist

R1: Dear Rick: As usual, there are no (stone) industry standards. Sorry, you're going to have to swallow what the fabricator told you. 1 1/16 sounds a little slim to me, but yes, it's true, there can be variations between one slab and another. Gang-saws are not famous for their precision cut. You can get my free maintenance guidelines for residential stone installation by hitting the link at the bottom of this page's left side bar titled: "Maurizio's Dos and Don'ts". Treasure them; you'll be glad you did! Ciao and good luck, Maurizio, USA, Expert Panelist

Q 3053: My designer and I found a polished stone called Samah and had it honed by the fabricator. It comes in slabs and should look great (colorwise) on my fireplace which we are refacing. After reading other Q/A's on this website I am now worried sick about whether this is limestone or ??? I need to know if anyone has heard of this stone and does anyone know what it is and whether it is a good choice for a fireplace surround. Also, if it can be used in this application should it be sealed? I need HELP ASAP!!! Mac, Oct 20. Reply

R1: Dear Harekrishna: If you look toward the end of this page's side bar you'll find a link to an article of mine about sealers. Just click on it. You can get my free maintenance guidelines for residential stone installation by hitting the link at the bottom of this page's left side bar titled: "Maurizio's Dos and Don'ts". Treasure them; you'll be glad you did! Ciao and good luck, Maurizio, USA, Expert Panelist

R1: Dear Suzi: One Lb. of "granite" is exactly, well ... 1 Lb.! :-) Joke aside, which one "granite"? Ciao and good luck, Maurizio, USA, Expert Panelist

Q 3050: I need help on how to take care them and also there appears to be a rusty water stain drips. How can I get them out? Do we need to seal this stone? It is a light pink and creme color. Eln, Oct 19. Reply

Q 3048: My coffee table has a 22d x 48L Italian Marble top - 1 inch thick. It was ACCIDENTLY broken. The break is along the 22 inch depth about 10 inches from the edge of the marble top. Is there a way I could repair it or must it be done professionally. It would cost quite a bit to have it done. I have inquired. Any suggestions. Marie, Oct 19. Reply

Q 3047: email me relevant information on tiling my fireplace with slate. I've already tiled it. My concern is wether or not I should apply a sealer prior to grouting. If so which would be best to use for slate. Thank You, Brady, Oct 19. Reply

Q 3046: I have a small alabaster statue of St. Michael (about 8 or 9" high). I recieved it about 50 years ago from my Mom...but was told that alabaster is so soft that I should NEVER try to clean it. After all this time, it REALLY does need SOME kind of cleaning and I would like to know what to use (successfully and completely). Can you help me? Bev, Oct 19. Reply

Q 3045: When I bought the kitchens counter tops had granite but the granite tiles are about .5 inches and the grout is below the granite so its not flat. is there ANY WAY TO FIX THIS PROBLEM. like to put something on top of the grout to even it up. Vishal, Oct 19. Reply

Q 3043: Hello.. I have marble tiles in my bathroom and right next to the bathtub are two spots/stains that are brownish orange.. They could have possibly came from shampoo or bath oil. Is there any way to get rid of these buggers? I tried scrubbing with soap and water but that was a lost cause... Should I use bleech or will that just corrode the marble finish? Please help, Peter, Oct 19. Reply

Q 3042: I had Granite counter top installed somehow there is a stain showing up and I am having difficulty cleaning the stain . I tried putting in powder and making the spot wet hoping it will soak the stain out. That did not work also I tried Windex that did not help either please advice the stain seems to be an oil stain. Hoping to hear from you. Thanks Moitry. Oct 19. Reply

Q 3041: There is discussion about removing the 4 ft granite strips on the outside walls of our business building. The granite has been there over 30 yrs. The problem is unslightly streaks. The caretakers used salt to thaw the snow/ice on the sidewalks and the salt/snow/ice mixture splashed onto the granite facade. In their hurry to remove the salt stain, a cleaning product was used which made the matter worse. Now there are highlighted streaks sweeping along the granite wall covering. Help! It would be a shame to replace the beautiful granite. Mike, Oct 19. Reply