Q 3040: I bought my home 4 years ago, and much of the appeal was due to the attractive stone exterior. I do not know the type of stone used - I 've always heard it called 'fieldstone.' I realized when I bought the house that there was some cracking of the mortar and that I would need to repoint sometime soon. On closer inspection, though, I find that several of the stone slabs themselves are soft and crumbling. They are not so much spalling or flaking as they seem to be rotted, like cardboard, at least on the surface. What do I need to do? The house was built in 1929, from what I presume to be natural stone from the area (Philadelphia, PA). The softest stones are a brownish color, and this seems to be the predominant color. Some of the larger blocks are darker (gray/black) and
they seem to be holding up fine. Any help is appreciated. Regards, Brook, Oct 18. Reply

Q 3038: I am looking for an expert who is willing to examine a botticino conglomerate marble hearth and give an expert opinion in the county court.

The lady lives in Blackburn Lancashire. Any charges must be reasonable.

The hearth had a hairline crack when it was first delivered and fitted but she was told that this was a feature of the marble. The crack has now developed into something substantial. Can you help at all? Ansbro, Oct 18. Reply

R1: Dear Laurie: There's no way, I repeat NO WAY that you have an acid etch on your Verde Butterfly (unless you spilled Hydrofluoric Acid on it, which I highly doubt you have in your household!). Was that countertop sealed? If the answer is yes, then that could just be the problem. If you want me to elaborate more on this particular subject gimme a holler at: info@findstone.com. You can get my free maintenance guidelines for residential stone installation by hitting the link at the bottom of this page's left side bar titled: "Maurizio's Dos and Don'ts". Treasure them; you'll be glad you did!
Ciao and good luck, Maurizio, USA, Expert Panelist

Q 3035: We are about to install ceramic tile floors thru our foyer and kitchen. I had always heard that when installing tile floors or even a tile countertop (be it granite tiles or ceramic) that Dura-roc should always be laid down below the tiles. My tile man who has been in the family business for over 30 years says no! He informed me that Dura-roc eventually crumbles and splits and he only glues and screws down (every 8 inches) ¾ inch plywood over top of my sub-flooring. Is this true – will I have problems if we don’t install Dura-roc or I think I’ve heard it also called greenboard? Thanks for your help. Jill, Oct 18. Reply

R2: Jill, DoRock and Greenboard are two different things. Greenboard is drywall that has been treated to be somewhat moisture resistant. You absolutely DO NOT use that as a base for your floor application. DuRock is a cement board made specifically as a backing for tile applications and will not rot, crack or disintegrate. Another option for underlayment would be HardiBacker (my personal favorite) and not that much more than DuRock. You do not want to use mortat & tile directly on plywood - even if it is treated wood. It would be a waste of a good installation if you omit the backer board. Regards, Adriana

Any help would be greatly appreciated! Nick Pagani, Oct 18. Reply

Q 3033: I am a consultant and i would like to know the different rates for both exporting and importing limestone to DUBAI, Renny, Oct 18. Reply

R1: Dear Robert: Just about nothing, I'm afraid! If frequency is not a problem with you, you can try with a good-quality car wax once every couple of months or so. Ciao and good luck, Maurizio, USA, Expert Panelist

R1:  Dear Steve: Well, usually stone and agglomerate tiles are sold at ... stone retail outlets! Do you want to do it yourself? Buy some publication on the subject and keep your fingers crossed. You can get my free maintenance guidelines for residential stone installation by hitting the link at the bottom of this page's left side bar titled: "Maurizio's Dos and Don'ts". Treasure them; you'll be glad you did! Ciao and good luck, Maurizio, USA, Expert Panelist

R1:  Dear Thall: Contact me directly at: info@findstone.com. Ciao and good luck, Maurizio, Expert Panelist

R1:  Dear Jay: Floating is very good. Wonderboard is just as good an much more practical. 3/16" grout lines? Fire the guy without any further comment. I ain't kidding around, I do mean it. NEVER use sanded grout with natural stone, unless it comes tumble-finished. About the sealing thing, read my answer to the posting # 3019 below. You can get my free maintenance guidelines for residential stone installation by hitting the link at the bottom of this page's left side bar titled: "Maurizio's Dos and Don'ts". Treasure them; you'll be glad you did! Ciao and good luck, Maurizio, USA, Expert Panelist

R1: Dear Looking for industry standards in the stone industry?! Dream on!! Ciao and good luck, Maurizio, USA, Expert Panelist

Q 3026: Hello, I am having a countertop built for a serpentine wine bar. It is being constructed out of a layer of 2cm absolute black granite with a 4" piece of 2cm granite laminated to the underside of the edge, then a full profile is cut into the edge on all (4) edges. The top is 14' long, so there is a seam at the 7' mark. My producer is telling me that the laminating of the edges, then cutting the profile in, is causing the granite to bow - this is causing a 1/16" difference in the heights of the 2 pieces at the seam.
Does this sound plausible (?) another local fabricator does not think the bowing should be happening? Or is it more possible that it is a case of one slab coming in 1/32" under and one slab coming in 1/32" over? The manufacturer wants to put a chamfer on the seam, but this will allow material to collect in the seam - not a good thing in a commercial situation. Any suggestions, or information would be greatly appreciated! Rosemary Clement, Oct 17. Reply

Q 3025: Would you please give me the straight story on using travertine limestone for floors. My builder seems to think its the neatest thing since apple pie. I have heard negative comments concerning durability and maintenance. Lynda, Oct 17. Reply

Q 3024: I'd really appreciate your guidance. We just purchased a 40yr old home with a greenish slate entry way, it has quite a few stains...any suggestions? Robyn, Oct 17. Reply

Q 3023: Hello! We would like to put down tiles on the back porch floor. The porch is covered by the roof but it is open on three sides. What type of subfloor should we have? Also, what type of outdoor tiles should we install and how? Thank you! Mike, Oct 17. Reply

R1: Dear Mary: I have no idea, either. To try to figure out what happened I should get to know exactly what your tile contractor did to that pan, including -- but not limited to -- the name of the powder he used. Forget about any sealer, they wouldn't do you any good. Ciao and good luck, Maurizio, USA, Expert Panelist

R1: Dear Katheleen: Yes, get out of the deal as fast as you can! That Volga Blue has clearly been "doctored" by the factory (in Ukraina) with application of some topical makeup to ... well, ... make up for the professional deficiency of the local operators. The lemon juice, damaged the makeup, NOT the stone. Under the circumstances you have the legal right to back up of the deal: you are shpping for bare stone, not for shoeshine! Give your fabricator another chance your fabricator by shopping around and find a different supplier with Volga Blue slab that are not "doctored". Volga Blue is one of the best materials that money can buy for a kitchen countertop, but it's extremely difficult to process, even with the sophisticated machinery available in the processing plants. If the slabs come from Italy, then it's going to be a joy to own, but if it comes directly from Ukraina ... well, you already know the story! ... Same machines, different operators! Now, think about this: how about if I hadn't made my little lemon juice test available to the readers of this site? ... :-) You can get my free maintenance guidelines for residential stone installation by hitting the link at the bottom of this page's left side bar titled: "Maurizio's Dos and Don'ts". Treasure them; you'll be glad you did! Ciao and good luck, Maurizio, USA, Expert Panelist

R1: Dear Josy: There's no such an animal like a "water stain". Water never stained marble, never will! For the time being, let's just say that polished marble for a bar top was a very poor choice. But it's too late for that, is it! Didn't your stone supplier or your interior decorator tell you that?! I mean, it's very old news! You can get my free maintenance guidelines for residential stone installation by hitting the link at the bottom of this page's left side bar titled: Maurizio's Dos and Don'ts". Treasure them; you'll be glad you did! Ciao and good luck, Maurizio, USA, Expert Panelist

Q 3019: "We are considering using travertine for the floors, walls and INSIDE shower walls (however not the floor) of our new bathroom. I've read everything you've got posted about the advantages/disadvantages of travertine, but I want to make sure I'm completely clear on this: is it correct that we do NOT need to fill or seal the travertine EVEN inside the shower itself? Also, in yours "do's and don'ts" article, does everything you wrote about cleaning and caring for marble apply to travertine as well? Many thanks, Brenda, Oct 17. Reply

R1: Dear Randy: Very definetly on the polished surface. If the lemon juice didn't do anything on the polished side, then the material is quite appropriate. You can get my free maintenance guidelines for residential stone installation by hitting the link at the bottom of this page's left side bar titled: "Maurizio's Dos and Don'ts". Treasure them; you'll be glad you did! Ciao and good luck, Maurizio, USA, Expert Panelist

R1: Dear Jessica: You don't need to spend $25 or more, but, unfortunately, unless you listen to 34-year-experience-Tony-know-it-all (who swears that using water and vinegar is the best thing one can do to stone!? ... Wow!!), there's no answer to your quest. Specialty cleaning agents for natural stone didn't come about out of fancy; they came about ouf of necessity. You buy natural stone, you have to care for it accordingly! You can get my free maintenance guidelines for residential stone installation by hitting the link at the bottom of this page's left side bar titled: "Maurizio's Dos and Don'ts". Treasure them; you'll be glad you did! By the way, I hope you didn't have your Blue Pearl sealed. Ciao and good luck, Maurizio, USA, Expert Panelist

R1: Dear Anne; Polishing stone is an art and never comes in a bottle. Stone is polished by abrasion and friction, not by applying something onto it and buffing it up. It takes a proven professional, because no two stones polish the same way. Ciao and good luck, Maurizio, USA, Expert Panelist

R1: Dear Kerry: No, it's not granite. It's a so called engineered stone, made with quartz and epoxy resin (in the proportions you indicated). In my neck of the woods (NE USA) is not any cheaper than "granite". It's maintenance is indeed easy and it does not need to be sealed, but there are several "granites" that don't need to be sealed, either, and are just as easy to maintain as engineered stone. There are basically no cons about it, besides the fact that it does look ... well, manmade! Ciao and good luck, Maurizio, USA, Expert Panelist

R1: Dear Polly: Absolutely! You can get my free maintenance guidelines for residential stone installation by hitting the link at the bottom of this page's left side bar titled: "Maurizio's Dos and Don'ts". Treasure them; you'll be glad you did!Ciao and good luck, Maurizio, USA, Expert Panelist

Q 3010: I am an architect working on a residential project using Leuders limestone in a bathroom. The stone slabs are installed in a shower room (10' x 10'). The stone contractor used thick slabs and surface ground them to drain. Presumably, he sealed it. Soon after my clients moved in the slabs began to spall and despite numerous attempts to "fix" it (with epoxy and whatever), the stone continues too spall. Can these slabs be properly sealed at this point to stop spalling? Did we use the wrong material in this installation? Do you know of any Leuders limestone used in similar projects? I will appreciate your reply. Lisa, Oct 16. Reply

R2: Dear Lisa: You don't give up, huh! ... I do admire your persevarance, but, unfortunately, even in this site you won't find anybody with a "magic solution" to your problem. It's terminal, alas. Ciao and good luck, Maurizio, USA, Expert Panelist

R1: Dear Maggie: The lemon juice test is meant to be used on "granite" only, to determine its suitability as a material for a kitchen countertop or a kitchen floor. Saturnia (which is a fancy way to say crosscut travertine) is a calcite-based stone. The lemon juice test does NOT apply to it. Pefect factory hone-finish does not exist. The machines they use to produce the finish in the factory are the same they use to polish the stone surface. They were never engineered to do hone-finish. The factory operators simply take out the last two rows of grinding elements, and, voila', you have a hone-finish that, if you ask me, makes me feel like puking! In my opinion, with all its much detectable grinding swirl marks (that's what you probaly have in your foyer) it's not fit for sale, plain and simple. Customers who buy Saturnia stone, or any factory hone-finished stone, should budget the services of a good stone refinishing contractor to have their floor honed in place (once installed) with a good-quality honing powder to perfectly even the finish. Your "Giallo Veneziano" wasn't sealed at all, or was sealed very poorly after the installation. It's too late now to come up with a solid soltion. What you suggest is not feasable, because the application of oil all over the countertop is unsanitary to begin with, and, what's more, wouldn't allow any penetrating sealer applied afterwards to bond. You may want to consider using a solution 50/50 of mineral spirit and boiled linseed oil. Although I'm not crazy about organic sealers, among the species boiled linseed oil is the best. You can get my free maintenance guidelines for residential stone installation by hitting the link at the bottom of this page's left side bar titled: "Maurizio's Dos and Don'ts". Treasure them; you'll be glad you did! Ciao and good luck, Maurizio, USA, Expert Panelist

Q 3007: Please send maintenance information for Perlato Royal Agglomerate Marble Tiles. Gail, Oct 15. Reply

Q 3006: I am an architecture student in the process of my first stone carving project. What are my options with sealing limestone? I have seen a piece that was finished with a method using beeswax. Could you please describe this process to me as well as any other relevant sealing/finishing processes. Is there a book that you recommend? Thank you for your time Laura, Oct 15. Reply

Q 3005: Should Travertine be sealed? If so, should a cleaner be used prior to sealing? Can you recommend a good product. Mary, Oct 15. Reply

Q 3004: I am studying Interior Design and need all info I can get on natural material - Stone please. Thanx, Ria, Oct 15. Reply

R1: Dear Chung Cheng:Each and every one of the problems you listed are NOT acceptable. Two different degree of gloss is plain pathetic. Applying a coating over the surface of the stone will NOT polish it. The chip must be repaired with epoxy filler, then ground flush with the stone surface and then that area has to be re-polished to match the rest. I doubt very highly that the "Michelangelo"
who produced your "masterpiece" has even a clue about doing that, since they couldn't even polish the edges! Demand your money back and go somewhere else. Black Galaxy should be one of the best countertop material possible. For what you report you have a piece of crap! I can print this out if you want. Ciao and good luck, Maurizio, Expert Panelist

Q 3001: DOES GRANITE COUNTER TOP NEED TO BE TREATED/SEALED EVERY YEAR OR SO? HOW DOES SILESTINE COMPARE TO GRANITE? Litesout, Oct 15. Reply

Q 3000: My 3 month old granite countertops have pits. The pits are growing in size and in number. I'm worried that my installer did not use a sealing product. Or, is this normal for granite? If it is, I was never informed and I am extremely disappointed. Please advise. Robin, Oct 15. Reply   

Q 2999: Dear sir.... I wonder if you can advise me on the accepted standrds for lime stone in Flextral strength - tests C880 modified.. the tested lime stone is used for external building cladding. the results are 9.1 wet and 10.1 dry....N/mm2 please advise if the results are accepted..Tamer, Oct 15. Reply  

R1: Dear Robert: I never like plywood. Personally I prefer cement board (Hey, I'm Italian!). Epoxy is a good idea, but there's also a type of setting material available at the HD, called Stone Setting Adhesive, by the Custom Builder company. It's easier to handle than epoxy and you won't have problems with migration of moisture. At the end of this page side bar click on my guidelines for maintenance of residential stone installation titled: "Maurizio's Dos and Don'ts". You do want to treasure those! Ciao and good luck, Maurizio, Expert Panelist

R1: Dear Lisa: Kinda fancy, huh! ... Verde Antique from Vermont is very good. I never heard about Blue Green, but typically quarzite is extremely porous. Slate is a big NO-NO in my opinion. The other one I never heard of it. Ciao and good luck, Maurizio, Expert Panelist, USA

Q 2995: Dear sir, we need some information on standards for marble stones re dimensions and quality, best regards, hamid, Oct 15. Reply

R1: Dear Kathy: The "granites" you mention are in the very porous side (not extremely, just "very"). However, if the slabs have been resined by the factory, then one application of a good-quality stone impregnator formulated thin (solvent-based) will do plenty. If not, it will have to be sealed by the fabricator how many times as it takes. There's no way of telling, because it all depends from the brand of the impregnator used. Ciao and good luck, Maurizio, USA

Q 2992: i am studying interior design with rhodec international and i am stuck on a subject!!! this is where i am asking for your companies help.
email me relevant information on natural stone, if possible request samples and technical information on the samples, how to maintain, prices, pros and cons. much appreciated. Lee , Oct 15. Reply

R1: Dear Mark: Man, can't you find somebody more expensive?! I wouldn't want no Mickey-Mouse-$3.50-a-foot contractor installing stone in my house for all the gold in the world!! I do mean it! A good contractor worth its salt gets at least $5:00 a square foot for ceramic tiles!! $10.00 per square foot for natural stone is the low-side of the norm nationwide. Enough of that. Well, I guess that with your mention of the white Italian marble in uncle Tony's backery you already answered you own question. If one wants the Mediterranean look but ... can't accept it, then I have no answers.
Soapstone for a sink is quite all right. I don't like soapstone for a countertop. Concrete is unsanitary. Ciao and good luck, Maurizio, Expert Panelist, USA

Q 2989: Do you have experience with countertops made of Verde Merinace "granite"? It seems so unlike other granites - are the green 'filler' parts softer than the stone inclusions? How well does it perform as a kitchen countertop material? Thank you, Teffy, Oct 12. Reply

R2: The Verde Marinoche will make a fine counter. It does not require the application of an impregnator usually. Regards, Steven, Expert Panelist

R1: Dear Pierre, There are many limestone quarries in the UK. Find one fairly close and arrainge a tour. JVC,Expert Panelist

R1: Dear Jerry: Nope, sorry. Ciao and good luck, Maurizio, Expert Panelist, USA

Q 2985: I'm looking at having eldorado stone vs natural stone layed on my home. Can you tell me the difference in average price per square foot on having them layed? Patricia, Oct 12. Reply

Q 2984: Could you recommend some granites which are most resistent to staining, absorption, scratching, without minerals that would rust, pit etc.? If they can be in any of the white gray blue black colors with veining is even better. They are to be used in for entry flooras well as the counter, bathroom floor, bath, shower and shower walls. Thank you, Michael, Oct 12. Reply

Q 2983: Hi, I've read your response regarding grinding a floor flat, and that's what needs to be done in my new bathroom. I'm in New Mexico...as I'm as far from NJ as you'd want to get, I'm guessing I either have to do this by myself or find a competent contractor. Obviously the one who put the floor in was unfamiliar with that "level & flat" This is a gorgeous 800 sq ft bathroom, but the tiles are not level. The contractor ground them to "lip" them in a few places which basically succeeded in ruining the finish and calling attention to the areas. The floor is travertine, with a marble inlay of three 18" sq pieces of marble surrounded by a border made of 3" X 14" pieces of Abaco Listell (stone with a stone inlay of colored leaves that runs all the way through the peices).
Can I buy the grinder and do this myself, or should I prepare to import someone and their tools to the mountains of New Mexico. (nice place...wanna visit?)
If I can buy the grinder, do you sell them? And the grinding and polishing materials? Oct 12. Reply

Q 2982: We are planning to put in a pool. Our architect has recommended shellstone for the patio which is also to enter into the house. Can you give us an idea on how maintenance intensive this product is? And if it is a high maintenance product can you recommend a low maintenace one?We have heard this stone is porous. What does that mean? In terms of maintenance? Bryann, Oct 12. Reply

R2: Dear Bryann: Most of the time, the idea of "maintenance" is only in people's mind. If you expect a material -- any material, whether natural stone or not -- to stay like new forever in an outdoor installation, then you're in for some serious sessions with your shrink. Shell stone, is absorbent. So what? So are a whole lot of other stones and different materials. Leave it alone, let it age the way Mother Nature intended, get to appreciate the "lived in" look that it will achieve over years of use and abuse, and by happy. Just clean it the same way you would clean a wood patio, or brick, or concrete, or what-have-you. If you can't accept that, thern stay away from stone altogether. You won't find any other material that will suit you, but at least you won't be blaming stone for anything. :-) Ciao and good luck, Maurizio, Expert Panelist

R1: Thomas, Unfortunately without a site review it is all conjecture. Probably the new area was not properly prepared for settling and moisture. It may need to be replaced. Regards, Steven, Expert Panelist

Q 2979: I am interested in Verde Fire. They are selling it as a granite. Is it suitable for a kitchen? How difficult is it for the fabricator to work? thanks Mary, Oct 11. Reply

R2: Dear Mary, I think it is neat. My people tell me it makes a great looking counter. It is being resined but I think more for pitting and veins than absorption. Moderately difficult to fabricate is how I would classify it. I think you will like it. Regards, Steven, Expert Panelist

R1: Ena, Well no they are not true geologic granites. They are mercantile granites. They both are factory resined and should with some occasional maintenance make nice counters. The New Venetian Gold is somewhat more stable. Regards, Steven, Expert Panelist

Q 2976: We are considering installing Verde Jewel in our kitchen. Will this work well as a countertop? Will it need to be sealed? What will I need to do to prevent problems with stains? Chris, Oct 11. Reply

R2: Chris, I like Verde Jewel. It is an Indian stone that looks great, quite stable, and low absorption. It makes a great counter. Regards, Steven, Expert Panelist

Second, against the arguments of some of the experts who post answers on this site, I have a black honed slate slab countertop, also new, in the kitchen. (I read about the opinions of the experts on this site AFTER having purchased and installed the countertop.) I am not concerned about scratches or imperfections that will invariably appear in the stone over time, and I would rather not seal the stone. I would instead prefer to use linseed oil or baby oil periodically to enhance the stone's patina. Is this the best route, or should I use a topical or impregnating sealer? If I do seal or impregnate, may I then use baby oil periodically as an additional measure?

Finally, and also regarding the countertop, I am under the impression that I could wipe it down as a daily cleaning process using a slightly damp rag. I assume that process would not cause the type of etching described on this site. Am I correct in this assumption? If not, what can I use on a daily basis for upkeep on this surface? Thank you very much for your help. Dana, Oct 10, Reply

This is a comment to Tony's answer: 34 years of "experience" on the stone maintenance business and you still recommend water and vinegar!! ... I made so much money as a stone restoration contractor by fixing the damages made to polished marble by water and vinegar that I used to say that I was selling vinegar by the square foot, not by the gallon!! Fortunately, over the years, slowly but surely, most of the "geniuses" who used to recommend that, realized how ignorant and stupid they were. A few law suits here and there help them to understand that they should keep their mouth shut, too. But after 34 years you're still at that point! ... WOW, you're amazing, man!! If you ask me, there ought to be a law to put self-proclaimed "experts" like yourself in jail and have the keys thrown away! This is a site for experts, pal. You don't belong here. Get permanently lost. Nobody will miss you and your "vast knowledge" on the subject, I promise you. Ciao, Maurizio, USA, Expert Panelist

R3: Dear Dana, Hmm, well lets see,
Don't worry about sealing the black slate as the damage won't be from absorption. If you must wipe it down with oil use mineral oil. It won't give you the same effect as soapstone will. The Brazillian multicolor on the floor -
The citrus cleaner to remove grout haze should not hurt the slate. It then should be cleaned thoroughly (preferably by a professional and have a topical sealer applied. You choose based on how glossy you want the floor to be.
Regards Steven, Expert Panelist

R1: Flagstone is a generic descriptive term that does not identify the stone lithology. If you can provide us with information pertaining to the actual kind of stone it is, (i.e. sandstone, limestone, slate, marble granite etc etc.), then possibly we can provide you with the information you seek. Not every stone can be polished, not every stone needs sealing. What category Bouquet Canyon Flagstone falls into is a mystery to me. JVC

Q 2972: I have read your comments on the results of the lemon test.
We are operating in a market that is hungry for French limestone,a number of customers have called regarding stain caused by "fruit juice", saying that the honed surface of the kitchen benchtop has eroded. Could you suggest remedial work,and would an impregnator sealer have prevented this happening. Regards,Phillip, Oct 10, Reply

R2: Dear Phillip: The only remedial work possible is to professionally re-hone the stone
surface to match -- as much as possible -- the factory finish. Nope, no impregnator/sealer for stone can do the first thing to prevent the kind of "stains" you're reporting (acid etching, that is), but I do have a good tip for you that could solve your problem permanently. Gimme a holler at: info@findstone.com. You can get my free maintenance guidelines for residential stone installation by hitting the link at the bottom of this page's left side bar titled: "Maurizio's Dos and Don'ts". Treasure them; you'll be glad you did! Ciao and good luck, Maurizio, Expert Panelist

R1: Dear Gary: If the staining agent (oil, in this case) found it's way in, there's got to be a way to get it out. Did you try my guidelines on stain removal that you can find toward the end of this page's side bar? If the acetone poulticing won't work, then your best bet is to get hold of the Miracle Sealant Company people and ask them what to do (you'll find their phone number on the 511 bottle.) You can get my free maintenance guidelines for residential stone installation by hitting the link at the bottom of this page's left side bar titled: "Maurizio's Dos and Don'ts". Treasure them; you'll be glad you did! Ciao and good luck, Maurizio, Expert Panelist, USA

R1: Dear Barbara: You have to find out from the people who sold the "granite" to you, what kind of "black granite" it was. You also want to know if they ever sealed it. Let me have their answers, then I may be able to help you (hoping that they won't lie to you about the real origin of the stone). Ciao and good luck, Maurizio, USA

Q 2968: I just found the findstone site yesterday. Have been looking at "granite" for 2 years. Am supposed to meet with kitchen designer tomorrow to finalize plans. After finding your site, called him and told him to hold off on countertop plans. I had four choices in mind. Ubatuba, Black Galaxy, Emerald Pearl, and Verde Fontaine. Like Ubatuba and Black Galaxy really well. They go with the stainless/natural look of my kitchen. That is truly not important to me though. I cook alot, everyday, and usually spend all day Sunday cooking and baking. I heard the usual-seal, no need to seal, stains, scratches, dirty, etc., and thought I had finally come to a decision. Could you please tell me which one you would recommend for someone who loves to cook, and lives in the kitchen-mine really gets a workout, and I want the least fussy, most durable thing I can get? Any help would be appreciated. You sound so professional and knowledgable when I read your comments and replies. Thank You, Crystal, Oct 10, Reply

R2: Dear Crystal, I am not an expert, rather, I am a very recent purchaser - 2 weeks ago. We chose Ubatuba because of the look with the inclusions and the colours. We loved the look. We are seeing some very thin cracks in the surface and are concerned and have asked for advice. Look for yellowed pieces - advice offered to us is that this is granite that has been left out in the sun and been ultraviolet damaged (??). Also, we have a chip right in the middle of our bench, approx 10mm by 7 mm by about 2mm deep. It is almost as if it has flaked off. This seems to be an uncommon problem with Ubatuba. We cook a lot too. I cook meals, my wife cooks pastries and cakes etc.
We chose stainless steel cooktop, sink, range hood. Also, lemon 100mm square tiles laid on the diamond as a splashback, blackwood cabinets with leadlight doors. The effect is rather nice indeed. The main thing I would suggest you do is to check the workmanship of the company you select. Look especially closely at the quality of any joins. Ubatuba is (so they said to me, a novice) difficult to cut without chipping and if they are not very good you will end up with very "chippy" seams.
We had a 40mm edge made from two pieces laminated together. The seam is quite
good. A "full benchtop" join across an 800mm section does not look as good. Good luck. My feeling is that the company doing the work is a critical concern (sorry to state the obvious, we were unhapy with our supplier).

Q 2967:  I think we have a big problem......... Our builder had the wrong faucet configuration (4 inch centerset) drilled into our cultured marble vanities. We have widespread faucets being delivered Tuesday. Is there any way to fix it without it looking tacky or are we gonna have to replace the entire vanity top? Builder swears we told him we were getting faucets that would use the standard 4 inch centerset drilling. Unfortunately, now it's a big debate. Any information you could provide would be appreciated. Thanks! Helen,Oklahoma, Oct 10, Reply

R2: Dear Helen: What has this got to do with the price of toothpaste in Nicaragua?! Cultured marble is plastic material. Go back to the people who sold it to you; they should be experts in plastic. We are not. Ciao and good luck, Maurizio, Expert Panelist, USA

Q 2966: Kindly advise availability of grinding stone for sandalwood for use in temples, Senthilnathan, Oct 10, Reply

Q 2963: I am a project engineer, working in Oman, I am supose to select a good type of cladding stone. So I want your advice for selecting the stone(sandstone & limestone), what are the tests required, and how to compere the good stone from the other. If you wish to guide me please to send me the stages of selecting, fixing, and maintening, with list of stone in the world and locations. Khalid, Oct 10, Reply

Q 2962: We have a sandstone fronted house where the blocks are rough cut(ie,not smooth and flat like bricks). A previous owner has cut some of the blocks to affix a piece of timber on which a pergola was erected. What can we do to repair the sandstone that has been cut, to return it to the original appearance. Is there a type of sandstone mortar that we can use to trowel on and shape the blocks to match the surrounding blocks? Jenny, AUSTRALIA Oct 10, Reply

Q 2960: Can you tell me where to order Krud Cutter from. Do you think it would cut through kerosene smoke that has stained our kitchen walls? Jean, Oct 10, Reply

Q 2959: We are remodeling our outdoor swimming pool and considering travertine for the coping. I love the look, but should I be concerned about how well travertine will hold up against the outdoor elements or brief exposures to pool chemicals? In this situation do you recommend using a sealant? John, Oct 10, Reply

Q 2957: We have just installed slate tile on our patio in Arizona, should some kind of sealer be applied. We plan to use it as a eating area., Salzach, Oct 10, Reply

Q 2956: I bought a piece of stone called Brazilian Jet, for carving. I am looking for any information on it. It is slightly harder than soapstone and pipestone. It is very black and not as shiny as coal. I would like to carve it, but cannot find any reference to the stone, Sam, Oct 10, Reply

Q 2954: We are currently trying to attempt to lay slate on our stair way inside our home. We have a split entry home and the landing is already slate so we would like to continue it on the stairs also. Currently there is plywood on the surface which comes in contact with oak end caps where the railings are. So we will be placing the slate on the plywood and our thought was to have oak molding to cover where the slate meets from the risers to the treads to cover the rough edges. Any tricks of the trade before we begin? We have never done this before and would like to try doing the installation. Please Help?, Nrpelet, Oct 10, Reply

Q 2952: We have a cleft slate floor that was recently installed in the entry way of our home. We are looking for and effective sealant...and have been told that mineral or baby oil would suffice as a sealant. Is this true and what are the advantages or disadvantages of this method as compared to other sealants. We would appreciatre any suggestions or recommendations. Thank you, Clay, Oct 10, Reply  

Q 2951 a: Our new kitchen countertops are slabs of Esmerelda granite with a simple bullnosed edge. The stone has some hairline brownish veins in it. We just noticed that it has cracked along one of these veins. The crack is about nine inches long and carries through the edge of the slab, but it is very narrow--you could slip a piece of paper in there or the edge of your fingernail, but nothing much wider. We talked to the installer, and he said they would probably just fill it with epoxy. The problem is that I work at home and for health reasons, I cannot be around ANY chemical fumes right now, so having the countertop repaired would be extremely inconvenient. I am wondering (1) if a crack that narrow needs to be filled; (2) is it okay to wait (up to a year) to fill it; (3) is there anything non-toxic that we could use instead of epoxy, such as beeswax or one of the non-toxic super adhesives? My husband thinks that the crack may lengthen and we should let it finish moving before we attempt any repair. I also noticed that it appears one or two tiny chips of quartz may have come off as the crack opened, and I am wondering if the crack will release bits of stone or dust? Thanks very much. EGD, Oct 10, Reply  

R2: Dear EDG: (1) Yes. (2) I don't know. It's chancy. (3) Nothing that I know of. You can get my free maintenance guidelines for residential stone installation by hitting the link at the bottom of this page's left side bar titled: "Maurizio's Dos and Don'ts". Treasure them; you'll be glad you did! Ciao and good luck, Maurizio, Expert Panelist, USA

Q 2950: We just purchased a house in France that was built in the early to mid 1800s. The stone was covered by a wispy looking concrete facade in the 1960s. Although the few glimpses of the stone underneath look promising, I don't feel that I have enough information
about the process to start. The builders are keen to rip it off, and I sure it will look lovely for a year or two, but I am buying the house for life not for a quick buck. Like many of the other people on the site, I have been hearing the words sand blasting, and sledge hammer all too often. Is this the only choice when removing the ugly concrete or are there other methods to be considered? Many thanks, Chad, Oct 10, Reply

Q 2949: Where can I find a Market for industrial uses for Marble. Doug, Oct 10, Reply

Q 2947: First, this is an awesome site, wish I had found it BEFORE I listened to the folks at Home Depot! I’m in the middle of a project where I am putting slate on top of a cement porch. I have used sanded grout and it is ALL OVER the slate. I was told that I could “simply wipe the grout off” after waiting for ~20 minutes. This was DEFINITELY NOT the case! (and no, I didn’t seal the slate first) What can I use to get the grout off of the slate? In most places, the Slate has a haze. In addition, once I get the haze and excess grout off, what should I do for maintenance of the slate? Thanks, Denny, Oct 10, Reply

Q 2946: I a m looking for Oppdal qaurtize, I like his qualities, especially that you can break a panel in a very straigt way, is there any other stone with this quality with a darker and silverish grey color. Thank you in advance, Taina, Oct 10, Reply

R1: Dear Deborah: I'm a stone man and my familiarity with ceramic tiles leaves a lot to be desired! I believe, however, that the only way to fix your problem is too replace the damaged tiles. I hope I'm wrong! Ciao and good luck, Maurizio, Expert Panelist , USA

R1: You should get back to the dealer who sold the plastic stuff (cultured marble) to you. This site is about stone. Ciao and good luck, Maurizio, Expert Panelist, USA

Q 2942: I am interested in puting up a feasibilty study for quarry site in Nigeria. I am in search of the basic requirements for setting up a quarry site as well as the different stages of work involved in the setting up of the quarry. In short an ABC of setting up of quarry in the basement complex region. Thanks. Floami, Oct 10, Reply

Q 2940: We want information on antique stones used inthe 17th and 18th adn 19th centuries in italy nad europe generally, Simon, Oct 10, Reply

Q 2938: Dear sir, Please let me know :
1)the difference between kerosene cut granite
slabs/tiles and water-diamond cut granite slabs/tiles?
2)the demand for kerosene cut & water cut? Naidu, Oct 10, Reply

Q 2936: My father collects, cuts and polishes rocks as a hobby. He has recently found a product called "Baked Sandstone" in New Mexico. While I am aware that this is a natural ocourance, aparently the dealer he bought it from fired the stone in an oven or kiln. How long would an 8-12 inch square sandstone need to be fired and at what temprature to sufficiently harden it? Also, after the firing process, what other stone would the hardness level be similar to? Any help you can give would be of great assistance. Thanks, Steven, Expert Panelist, Oct 10, Reply

R1: Leo, Get a sample each of the filled and unfilled material. Take the unfilled material to the tile setter and ask him to fill it with grout. Put the pieces next to each other and decide on the look you prefer. Remember - you are going to be the one living in your house and you should be happy with what your floor will look like. As for which fill is better - in my humble opinion: it does not make a difference. A friendly piece of advice:- If your tile setter uses sanded grout with the travertine, get another one in a hurry. Regards, Adriana.

Q 2934: Looking for information on garnite stone, where it could be found, age and details on production and sale of? Sarah, Oct 10, Reply

Q 2932: We are just installing reclaimed terracotta tiles in a covered outdoor area. We would like them to look even more antique, in other words be darker and have a sheen, as though they had been waxed "forever", can you help? Also what do I use to cleaned Honed granite kitchen countertops ? Thanks ever so much., Miachel, Oct 10, Reply

Q 2930: Our 1820's farmhouse includes a slate fireplace (oringinally used for coal) in the dining room and 10 x 10 marble floor in the vestibule at the front door. The slate is currently covered with mutliple layers of paint. Any suggestions on the proper way to remove the paint? Any helpful hints on how to bring out the natural look? What should we stay away from using? On the vestibule, I will hire a contractor to refinish the floor, but should the grout be applied before or after the floor is refinshed? Thanks. Mike, Boston. Oct 10, Reply

Q 2928: Craftsman of the marble, available to work wherever as free lancer. I offer my skill, twenty years experience, all the factory works, sculpture, polishing,cutting, restoration, laying, use of the rock drills, knowdledge of the drawing and the english language. I demand seriousness and good wage. Michele Mallegni, Oct 10, Reply

Q 2926: I saw last two minutes of a broadcast this weekend on a feature from the International Hardware Show on a product called Short Wall or Small Wall. made of same material gas containers are made from - - it looks like rock is very sturdy. It came in sections that could be bent from an L or a straight line. I can not find them..... can you help? BILL, Oct 10, Reply

R1: To avoid problems, The customer should purchase enough samples to see the range and quality of the materials. Depending on the material and the customer the number of samples may vary.

In stone business, variation is the norm, as we mention in our correspondence. They can not reject the material based on color variation. Depending on the material, the variation is different. The following are the terms and conditions when we sell in USA. Please read these, it will give you some ideas.

Returns, Conditions, Disclaimers & Policy:
We assume no responsibility and extend no guarantee for: the freight, delivery, lost, and damages to the material. When receiving, accept the freight, if the crates look damaged and time is required to estimate the damages, we recommend you to note this on the freight bill and add: " damaged material, concealed damages" and ask for a claim form to file the damage claim.

Our terms and conditions are, including but not limited to the following:

-Return of stock material requires "Return Authorization." Only unopened boxes are accepted.
-No returns are accepted for Onyx slab material. These materials are fragile, therefore sensitive for transporting and handling. Purchasers are coming to inspect the materials before shipment.
-Absolutely no returns are accepted for damaged and / or installed material.
-No returns are accepted for: opened boxes, and opened crates containing large tiles.
-Absolutely no returns are accepted on special orders.
-No returns are accepted after seven (7) days from the shipment (bill-of-lading) date.
-All returns are subject to re-stocking charges of 15% for tiles and 25% for slabs.
-All material to be returned, must be packed & shipped in perfect condition and freight prepaid.
-Purchasers should inspect all material upon delivery. Damages must be noted on the bill-of-lading at the time of the delivery. Damage claims should be filed by the purchaser through the freight company.
-Natural stone is a product of nature. Variations in color, pattern, texture and strength are inherent characteristics of the species. Samples are approximately indicative of any material and are a unique specimen. Variation is the rule, not an exception.
-There will be a minimum charge of $5.00 per package for UPS, Fed-Ex. and other carriers.

We accept written purchase orders and will fax an order "confirmation" of your order. We will not accept responsibility for any omissions, mistakes and errors inherent in verbal communications, even between you and me. We only hold material for five days, We will not be responsible after this time. A none-refundable deposit may be paid to hold a material for a longer (not more than 60 days) period.

As for the terms:

We normally use prepaid for the people they do not have an account. In some cases: we do 20% deposit & the balance due Cash Against documents, or Letters of Credt at site.

If a complaint happens: We would follow up on it. We are very good at that. If the material is bad quality, which means sub-standard fabrication, we will replace the material with proper material. If the customer wishes to inspect the material before shipment, that could also be arranged and is preferable with us as therefore no problems will occur.

The main problem to watch for is: some clients do not understand natural stone products. What they have to know that these are natural products and no two pieces are the same.
Best, Adam

R1: Have a quality painter come in and apply several coats of lacquer on the tops this will restore the original polished look and can be easily polished afterwards with furniture polish to maintain the gloss, Tony

Q 2922: We just got our whole house installed with Travertine 18x18 Travertine floors. The seller said it is "Turkey Select" variety. Is there any thing like that? Seller showed us one tile which was very even and light beige. But when installed, it looks brown and uneven, with lot of dark and light patches. It looks dirty. Some tiles even have dirty marks (dirt). It looks very ugly. Also it leaves scratch marks even a water bucket when mopping. How can be get the even color or it is too late? How can be clean it? it is really frustrating. Please help. Thanks martha, Oct 9, Reply

Q 2920: I am interested in getting 24x24 travertine tile for my covered patio leading to a swimming pool. The home is a Mediterranean style and I am trying to maintain ld World look. At the moment I am confused with the finishes offered. What is the difference between a Patinato finish and a tumbled finish? Does one finish offer more beauty or movement over the other? And finally is it recommended to have them filled--since they are on a porch where food and drink is served, etc.? I would appreciate your advice. FM, Oct 9, Reply

Q 2919: Your website is very informative but I couldn't find my exact issue answered. We are just starting the renovation of a small guest house on our property. The plan for the bathroom is to have a pedestal sink and toilet and then tile the floor, walls and ceiling with the drain in the middle of the floor so the entire bathroom can act as a shower stall. I have seen many pictures of slate tiling and love the look. However, my husband has concerns about using slate because he feels it is too porous for a bathroom shower application, concerns about staining and flaking and that it is not a low maintenance solution. What tips or suggestions (even of other tile/stones) could you offer to help us make the right decision?
Please pick the
statement you are more comfortable with.
1. Slate is very good (almost ideal) for bathroom shower installations.
2. Slate is a marginal material for bathroom shower installations.
3. I hesitate to recommend slate for shower installations.
Thanks .Rebecca, John, Oct 8, Reply

R2: Dear Rebecca: 4. Run away from it fast enough to leave skid marks on the ground! Ciao and good luck, Maurizio, Expert Panelist

Q 2918: I am considering a bathroom with natural stone floors and shower walls. What would you sugest?
The reason for my inquiry is I wanted an unbiased second opinion on weather limestone was a good choice or if I was going to wind up with a lot of maintenance headaches. If limestone is a bad choice is there a better natural stone or should I look at ceramic tile?

I found the site very informative and the question/answers prompted me to stop and ask you questions regarding the stone selections. I have one suggestion, which is more photo ideas of bathrooms, floors, and kitchens with standard and elaborate stone installations, with a drawing that is downloadable for a fee. Other than that I found your site very useful and easy to navigate. The other sites I visited didn’t supply the amount of info you do. Thank you John,Oct 8, Reply

Q 2917: We are a stone restoration and metal refinishing company located in Baltimore, MD. I have been trying to locate a supplier of the following paste wax used for marble walls: Santa Margherita, PW50, a paste wax made in Italy. If you are aware of different websites or of a supplier, I would really appreciate the input. Lindia, Oct 8, Reply

R1: Marchello, Thank you for your input. We tend to not suggest solutions to mask the problem first. It is possible to buff many metal marks from the top or even repolish all scratches. My continued contribution to this website is because I want the consumer to expect the very best, and I want the fabricator, installer, restoration professional to provide the very best. Again thank you for the easy DIY solution, I know it will be helpful to many people. Regards, Steven, Expert Panelist

Q 2915: The builder/developer of our house used a Saturnia marble on the floors. The Saturnia had many holes and was “filled”. New holes keep appearing and the filler used in the older holes wears away and exposes the old holes. What can I use to fill these holes and where would I purchase such a substance? Thank you in advance for your reply. Cherise, Oct 8, Reply

R2: Dear Cherise: You don't. What you do instead you call a professional stone restoration contractor.
Ciao and good luck, Maurizio,USA, Expert Panelist

R1: Jim, Go ahead and have an impregnating sealer applied to the floor. Then you need to learn how to care for the floor. There are maintenance tips located on this website. Regards, Steven, Expert Panelist

Q 2913: I would like to know if you can email me some information on how the production of granite tiles or just granite effects the environment? Basicly I need to know that when granite is produced into tiles what effect does it have on the environment? If you have this information can you please send it to me ASAP. Chelsey, Oct 8, Reply

Q 2911: Was wondering if you also accommodate opportunity for positions in the Dimensional Stone Trade. I am a Quarry Master with 17 Years and several Quarry Sites in Canada. Curd, Oct 8, Reply

Q 2909: I have been in the Floor covering trade for more than 30 years now, having close contacts with the main Architects / Designers / Hoteliers / Specifiers in India. I intend branching out into the natural Stone trade, for which I know a substantial demand exists. I would be thankful if you could furnish me with some basic start-up knowledge / info as to what all is involved in the natural Stone / Slate line and all that I need to know about  this. Many thanks, Puneet, Oct 8, Reply

Q 2907: I have a smooth surface sandstone fireplace that is very discolored and dirty. How do I clean it? Also - is there a way to clean it uniformly without streaks? It's not horribly dirty - just mostly age dirt - but some creosote around the hearth opening. Cathy, Oct 8, Reply

Q 2906: We have a textured slate floor that receives heavy traffic every day. It is light in color but gets a thin black film of oil and grease that does not completely clean even after daily scrubbing. The only places that appear very clean are where the rubber tires of the floor scrubber spin. We are curious if there are any rubber nubbed brushes available for Noble floor scrubbers or Clark scrubbers. We have tried many types of degreaser products but none seem to do the trick. Thank you. Doug, Oct 8, Reply

Q 2905: I recently purchased a hand carved alabaster lamp (antique - approx 100 years old). It has many small holes and is dirty in several places. The antique dealer  recommended that I clean the lamp with dishwashing liquid and a toothbrush. So far, this has not worked very well. The lamp has a bit of a darker stain (it appears) in places. Do you have any suggestions or recommendations on what I can use to clean the lamp? I didn't know if there is some product I could buy that would be safe? Any suggestions you have would be greatly appreciated. Regards, Lisa, Oct 8, Reply

Q 2904:I have a rock fireplace that must have been coated with some kind of sealer, and there's a few spots that have chipped off, exposing a white chalky look as if you are now seeing the inside of a rock. I'm not sure how to restore it. Also I need to clean the entire fireplace, it has black smoke stains . I don't know what kind of rock it is but it looks very natural flagstone like. Tami, Oct 8, Reply

Q 2902: I have cleaned some of my own family monuments and I am looking to get into this area as a source of income. The primary problem I face in the area I am in is hard water lime buildup on monuments from cemetery sprinkler systems in town and city cemeteries - stones in country cemeteries with no watering other than natural rainfall don't really need any cleaning other than the biologicals that attach themselves to marble. This buildup is not a natural patina but a result of the necessity of creating a green carpet in cemeteries in a low rainfall area of the western U.S. - the encrustation on granite can get fairly thick, in many cases giving the monument an overall whitish-gray appearance and leaving it almost unreadable. This was the case with my Grandfather's stone. Once cleaned after 77 years of getting sprayed with hard water it was a nice polished rose granite. The main question is this, which I can't seem to find a straight answer - is there any other solution to this problem other than acidics and abrasives? Basically I have been using CLR and steel wool and lots of elbow grease, then neutralizing with non-ionic soap and baking soda for polished granite which doesn't appear to harm the surface. On another family stone there was a heavy lime deposit on a large rough sandblasted part of the stone which I removed with CLR and pumice stone, but you go through pumice stone pretty quickly on granite, is there a harder cleaning stone available which wouldn't harm rough granite but do the job more economically? And overall, is this course of treatment safe long-term for modern monuments or can anyone recommend better, faster and more economical products available, and where and from what company? Rich, Oct 8, Reply

R1: Dear Adama:
#1. Yes, he does.
#2. Yes.
#3. I don't know. I don't know. Ask the people who sold the stone to you.
#4. Kinda a tough proposition, but with a lot of labor and the right product you may be able to manage.
#5. I should be able to actually see the whole picture to give suggestions about the installation. Consult with more than a setter if you don't fully trust yours.
If you want my free guidelines on maintenance of residential stone installations, hit the link "Do's and Dont's", again toward the end of this page's side bar. Hurry up! You'll be glad you did! Ciao and good luck, Maurizio,USA, Expert Panelist

Q 2899: I live in Las Vegas, where the air is dry and temperatures can reach over 110 degrees Fahrenheit throughout the summer months. We are tiling our patio and were thinking of going with slate. A salesman told us that slate is an inferior product to porcelain and he would only recommend porcelain for our outdoor use. I prefer the look of slate to the porcelain tiles I have seen. But can the slate survive the Las Vegas summers? And is there so much maintenance on it that we will regret tiling a large area with it?
-- SBS, Oct 8, Reply

Q 2898: We would like to put a type of slate on our kitchen floor. Do you know if it is possible to buy lighter weight slate for use over floorboards. Any advice would be much appreciated. Regards, Susan, Oct 8, Reply

Q 2896: We recently put down marble floor in our kitchen. We left the sealer on for about four hours. The marble seems to have a dull haze on it.We later but the same marble in our laundry room. I didn't leave the sealer on too long and now the laundry room looks a lot better than the kitchen. I have buffed and put a polish on but it still doesn't look as good as the laundry room. What should I do? Sherry, Oct 8, Reply

Q 2895: I have to grout 4x8 quarry tile with a buffer because the joints have to be completely full. Any advice on technique? Reifler, Oct 8, Reply

R1: Dear Cindy: Giallo Veneziano is a gneiss stone that comes from Brazil.
About the rest of the intelligence you'll need to safely sail through your stone adventre, Ciao and good luck, Maurizio,USA, Expert Panelist

R1: Dear Monica: Mine is, of course!! Just kidding!
There's no answer to your question. Travertine requires a low density sealer, due the inherent density of the stone. Your "granite"? ... Well it all depend from the "granite". There are certain sealers that are better for very porous "granites", other ones that are best for medium density "granites" and -- the best of them all -- those that you don't have to apply because the "granite" is so naturally dense that won't take any sealer in! Ciao and good luck, Maurizio,USA, Expert Panelist

Q 2891: I own a home with a walk-out basement, so the sides of my lot are quite sloped. I want a good way to move my lawnmower etc. down the side of my house. I am thinking of setting flagstones down in the rock that is already on that side of the house and making a walkway. Am I going to be wasting my time or do you think this is a wise solution? The grade is moderately steep. Do you think the stones will stay in the 1 1/2" rock that is already there. Please help.Chad, Oct 8, Reply

Q 2889: I am building a patio with a stream down the middle. I was able to do the water feature with liner and thin stone. Now I want to build a small stacked stone wall around my oval reservoir with stone that are 3 - 4 inches thick and assorted lengths and I am not sure how to cut the curves and top cap block. Any ideas? I am also pouring cement around 3 very large slabs of stone (around a ton each) one of the stones has settled and is now 3/4 of an inch lower than the other two. Any ideas on how to raise the stone or lower the other two stones to make them level? Thanks Roger, Oct 8, Reply

Q 2887: Hello. What a great site! I live in south Mississippi and am looking for 12"x12" or 16"x16" slate pavers (Jade green or natural grey guaged one side or two). Also, do you recommend any sealant on pavers used outdoors (if so, which one/type) or is it preferable to allow them to weather naturally? David, Oct 8, Reply

Q 2885: We have a bit of a problem... My school has a wonderful brass compass embedded in the floor tiles of the main entrance hall. We were able to clean the brass compass with vinegar. We noticed the surrounding slate tiles are now lighter. They were gray, blue and some deep red. The red slate seems about the same color, the gray and blue and very light now. They had 60+ years of build up, and we thought the old wax was coming off. What do you think, and what should we do to make them all look alike again? Thanks for you time, Eager in the East, Oct 8, Reply

Q 2884: I have sandstone block foundation on my 101 year-old home, here in Lakewood, OH a suburb of Cleveland. 
I wish to make my basement as dry as possible and am taking the steps to parge the outside and provide necessary draintile and stone. The inside however, has been painted by previous owners.In Some areas the paint seems to have a very good hold on the wall while other areas the paint flakes right off.
I would like to remove as much paint as possible, then coat the entire wall with ___________(?) to seal it the best way possible.
Note: I have no problems with interior moisture. Pipes are insulated and have recently poured a new insulated slab with interior draintile, gravel, visqueen, etc. Hope to eventually furr out the interior foundation walls for a new family room. 
Your recommendations of the extent of paint removal, wall prep, and then coatings are appreciated and so are any tips of caution when I furr out the walls. Jeffery, Oct 8, Reply

Q 2882: Hi, I’m from Bali, Indonesia, and am currently re-finishing a pool that was badly made. I was wondering if you could tell me, what type of sealer I should use for the Palimanan (White limestone) and if the sealer will stop the palimanan from turning  yellow / cream when water is in contact with it. Regards, SAM, Oct 8, Reply

Q 2880: I am looking for some software that can be used to categorize marble.
For example, scan or take a picture of a piece of marble, save as jpeg. Get the software to analyze and categorize it. We have many different shades of red marble and have difficulty sorting it by eye. Do you have any suggestions? Thank you, Dave. Oct 8, Reply

Q 2878: What is Kerb stone Can you give me some details? Gajendra, Udaipur, India. Oct 8, Reply

Q 2876: Please explain what is Abrasive index of materials and how it is expressed. Sometimes we come across where it is expressed as Abrasive index for Granite-0.55 and some times it is expressed in percentage. Somen, Oct 8, Reply

Q 2874: I am civil engineer from Makrana, Rajasthan, India. In my city, marble is quarried and processed but we are suffering from a slurry problem. Are there any projects based on marble slurry? Help me in this field. Thanks, Vishal. Oct 8, Reply  

R1:   Dear Debra: What kind of rock? Should it be re-polished (was it originally polished)? My best piece of advice is for you to get hold of a proven stone restoration professional. Ciao and good luck, Maurizio, USA, Expert Panelist

Q 2871: I am buying a classic marble column (solid marble, 10" x 8) and a number of vendors came to me with different prices. How can I decide? Is there a regulation in this market? Does a vendor need to have a permit, or something similar in the US? How can one determine its quality? What are the criteria to determine the quality of columns. What are the most important factors I have to consider? Can I buy such columns from foreign vendors from India or China? Do I really need to CEMENT? People say there is Proprietary epoxy-resin glue from Japan that can do the job. But I can not find it in the US/Canada market. What are the BRAND names? and which is the best? (I just want to glue marble or granite in a more effective way) Warren, Oct 8, Reply 

R1: Dear Diane: Go to a local retailer of tile and marble and get a bottle of cleaner for stone. Do NOT use generic cleaning products Ciao and good luck, Maurizio, Expert Panelist

Q 2868: HELP! We have granite countertops in our kitchen and a box of strawberries was left on the counter. First, the granite stained a red color and now it has whitened. It almost appears as if the color has come right out of the granite. What's happening and can it be fixed? Thanks for any help out there. Kathryn.   Oct 8, Reply

Q 2867: I am a structural engineer in Boston, MA, USA and my firm is currently working on roadway modifications in the area. In one particular area, we have a reinforced concrete retaining wall with a 4" thick sawed granite facade. Many of the panels of granite have cracked and spalled over the past 50 years of service. The anchorage of the facade is not accessable so replacement may not be possible without damaging more panels or the concrete retaining wall. I welcome any advice or products you can recommend to repair the panels. If I can get a paticular repair procedure approved with the owner, I can specify the product in the project specifications. FRANK, Oct 8, Reply 

Q 2865: We installed a black slate harth. The installers dripped sweat on it. we wiped it down before sealing with tung oil now we notice several white rings that we think are salt deposits leaching up. Is there any way to remove these and what should we reseal it with? Heather, Oct 8, Reply

Q 2863: We are planning a kitchen renovation and are looking into granite as a countertop. I have found a company that sells and installs granite. If a seam is necessary in the countertop they use silicone instead of epoxy to butt joint seams together. Is this okay ? Their reason is that silicone allows for expansion and contraction while epoxy will fade and the seam could break if there is sufficient movement. They also say that an epoxy seam is not recommended for our climate. I live in Ottawa, Canada. Undermount sinks are also adhered with silicone. Finally should there be a plywood backing underneath the counterops ? Kam, Oct 8, Reply

Q 2862: I am studying garden art design and I'm interested in the natural black stone found in Leeds and the surrounding areas. Also any advice on laying and cutting natural paving stone, oh and shaping for ornimental features.thankyou.....what is the black stone found in leeds called?? Niki, Oct 8, Reply

R1:  Dear Vansl,
I think that all the comments about travertine were good actually. It brought to light some basic misconceptions and material biases.
Let's assume the installation will be well done.
If you plan to have a honed or brushed finished filled travertine, I think you will just need to concentrate on how to maintain it.
For that you may want a penetrating sealer applied if the cavities have a lot of grout in them. The grout is absorptive. You will want know that the travertine will change after it is installed, this is known as the floor developing a patina. You will want to sweep the floor for a while after it is installed, then you may want to have a professional restoration/janitorial company clean the floor for you inch by inch. You then will want to keep the floor well swept or vacuumed and cleaned frequently with a neutral pH cleaner and a string mop.
Good choice, regards, Steven, Expert Panelist

Q 2859: I have a question. In the grout, I used 511 impregnator. When cleaning up the excess, it got on the stone. Now the edges, when wet, show exactly where I wiped up the excess sealer. Do you know how to remove it aside from sandblasting the stone? After this, I'll never seal grout again! Best, Melissa, Oct 7, Reply

R2: Dear Melissa: The Miracle Sealant Company (the maker of 511) will be glad, no doubt, to tell you what to do. Their phone number should be on the bottle. Ciao and good luck, Maurizio, USA, Expert Panelist

Q 2857: I have bought some granite 12x12 tiles that was called " Montecruz Sonoma" and was qurraryed in China. I can't fine that name and I am sure it is a store name. I have looked in the Images and it is hard to tell which stone it might be. The color is a motelled gray with a pink undertone. White and black small grain that has sizes in the 1 to 5 mm. The color is a bit like "cherry Flower" with a grain that is much more like "padang 308" I got the tile from Color Tile in Northern California, Williams, Oct 7, Reply

Q 2856:   We've installed some 3" thick sandstone veneer recently and, upon recommendation of the fabricator have used a 8:1 ratio of Dietrich cleaner. Perhaps some of the cleaner was left onto a few areas too long before washing off and we may have "burned" a few areas as they have turned yellow to lime green. We've tried to bleach the blotches out but now the areas are turning too white. The stone is beige and rose colored. We've also tried power washing and still no positive results. Please recommend any possible solutions before we are forced to dis-mantle! Granimar, Oct 7, Reply

Q 2855: Hi! We are installing granite tile around a whirlpool tub. How could I polish the exposed edges and avoid using bullnose? Any advice would greatly be appreciated. Lora, Oct 7, Reply

R2: Dear Lora: Take your tiles to a local fabrication shop and have them do the job. It's Not a Diyer project. Ciao and good luck, Maurizio, USA, Expert Panelist

R1: Dear Sue, The number of coats applied will depend on how absorptive the stone is. Remind your fabricator to use 1 coat per day, and they can always apply more once the installation is done.
You will want to purchase some of the sealer they are using for use later on. Regards, Steven, Expert Panelist

Q 2853: I'm interested in applying a stone and resin flooring to my existing basement and patios Can anyone offer assistance as to where I may purchase the necessary stone (granite, marble, etc.) aggregate (chips) for this application? In addition, can anyone offer any helpful advise. I've seen it installed many times and assisted with an installation, doesn't look difficult. Thanks! Steve, Oct 7, Reply

Q 2852: I "scanned" your very infomative website but being visually impaired I probably missed anything about alabaster. How to clean??? This info is for another senior citizen. Thanks in advance for any advice you may have. Diane Porter,Oct 7, Reply

Q 2851: We were to have our granite slab countertops installed this AM. Material is 2cm Agate (told that it's related to Dakota Mahogany, it has similar color but with lots of crystals and color movement). Difficult layout, but got great match on each side of seam in the middle of the sink cutout. Today, fabricated pieces fit perfectly on the counter, ready to bond into place. (new) assistant shifted piece that included left side of sink cutout and broke off both narrow pieces front and back of sink (pop/pop - one piece is now three). All back to the shop.

Fabricator says that the breaks were clean, at crystals, with no loss of material, and that repair is possible. But repair or replace is going to be my call.

Several questions arise: Can a "simple" repair of this sort work cosmetically? Would a properly repaired break be more/less susceptible to staining? To shifting? What should I look for in the repair (A1140 seems to come close to this)? Should we just go to the reserve slab?
Usefulness of FindStone Site:
a. there was a Q/A vaguely related to my question.
b. lots of really good information about treating stone for the long run
c. most informative site I found on the subject of honing - we almost did honing but had decided against, your site bolstered my resolve in this plan.
Thanks in advance, JohnB, Oct 7, Reply

R1: John, With this material I would recommend replacement. Why? Because it doesn't have a tight vein pattern to mask the breaks. Advise them to "rod" the cut out this next time.
If repaired properly it would not be susceptible to staining, shifting, or breaking again. Regards, Steven, Expert Panelist

Q 2850: We recently put in granite (something Viara, I forgot the actual name) kitchen counter-tops. We love the way it looks but we keep having a recurring stain problem even though I have sealed the counters myself The fabricator (B Marble in LA) that was recommended to us told us before we purchased the granite that they do not seal the granite at the factory because of the type of adhesive they use to bond the granite to the sub-counter. They claimed that as the adhesive evaporates that it could leave a stain in the granite because of the sealer/impregnator. Instead, they gave us a kit which contained a sealer by Stone Care Inc. We applied the sealer a couple of weeks after installation. (I wish I had read your website before buying our granite counter!!!)
However, we found that the granite stained if we left any item with some water under it on the counter for around 15-30 minutes, or just about the time that it takes to eat dinner. Luckily, thus far it has only
involved water, and the stain has evaporated away in about 10-20 minutes. After a month of dealing with the stains, I decided to seal the counters once again, this time using 511 Impregnator. Same thing. No change. I'm pretty certain that I followed the directions correctly. I'm not sure what I should do... Should I try another sealer? Should I be worried about using different types of sealers? Or should I simply re-use the same sealer multiple times
Oh, by the way, I DID try Maurizio's Lemon Juice Test on an extra slab of (unsealed) stone, and the granite passed the test. It took several minutes before I noticed anything like a stain on the granite.Please advise...Thanks!-Kenan,Oct 7, Reply

R1: Dear Kenan: I'd love to tell you to try my own sealer, but It's never a good practice changing brands of sealers. As a rule of thumb, once you start with a particular brand, you're better off continuing with the same. Having used two brands already (one siloxane-based and the other one silicon-based) could represent a problem with no easy solution. Since your fabricator seems to be soooo knowledgeable (the theory of the stains from the glue showing up on the surface if the countertop is sealed is right up there at the top of my list of cacca baloney stories!!) and he made some good money out of you, you should have him solve the problem. Ciao and good luck, Maurizio,USA, Expert Panelist

Make sure that you also get the fabricator to warrantee the workmanship. B chipped a small section of the stone around the cutout for the sink. They fixed it up by gluing it back on. It actually looks OK, but I'm worried that the piece may fall out in the future, causing me more headaches.

- Break-up of costs paid for stone, installation, sealing &/or repairing

We have approximately 66 square feet of countertops. The material, fabrication and installation of the stone cost around $4800. But, I'm still trying to get the stone to seal properly. What's strange is that
the counter seems to pass the "Lemon Juice Test."

- Your experiences - good / bad - with stone or suppliers or installers

We were working with Jack's in Santa Barbara who recommended B Marble. B did a good job of cutting the granite. We only have one seam in our counter which is L shaped, but pretty long (9 feet and 7 feet). However, they did chip the granite around the sink area. In addition, when they arrived to install the counter they discovered that they had forgotten to leave a 1/4" gap around our island. As a result, they had to trim the inside edges of the slab for the counter. However, I do believe that the counter looks great, even with the chip. My only real problem is the fact that B did not seal the countertop. Jacks is apparently no longer working with B.Thanks!-Kenan, Oct 7, Reply

R1: Kenan, The chip if well done will be fine. Natural stone has a tendency to spall like this. Regards, Steven, Expert Panelist

R2: Hello Susanne, If you have a shiny surface then something acidic was left on the counter and literally etched the shine off. You probably need someone to repolish the areas. Either way it would be good for you to call the original fabrication facility for help. Then you will want to clean the counters with neutral pH spray cleaners. Regards, Steven, Expert Panelist, USA, Expert Panelist

Q 2846: How can I remove rust stains from flagstone around a pool? Metal shavings fell on the flagstone and now there are rust spots on the flagstone. Thanks, Charlotte, Oct 4, Reply

R1: Dear Charlootte: If you hurry up, you can have my free stain removal guidelines by clicking on the link that you will find toward the end of this page's side bar. Keep in mind, however, that removing metal stains is always a chancy proposition. Ciao and good luck, Maurizio, Expert Panelist

R2: Richard, I take it you did not inspect the stone before it was installed. Many types of mercantile granite have this appearance. I would need to know what material it is to say for sure though. Call the people who provided and installed the counters for help. Regards, Steven, Expert Panelist, USA, Expert Panelist

Q 2844: Hello! We just had app. 85 ft2 of "Giallo Veneziano" purchased through a local store, who in turn used a local granite/marble manufacture for materials/installation. We had originally chose Corian but then decided we preferred the glossy finished look/color/pattern of granite (plus the price was better!). As in most consumer cases we made our decision based on the representative sample at the store and we advised to make an appointment to actually go see the slab choices at the shop and choose. The "showroom" at the shop also had this particular granite on display which reflected the high gloss/and differentiation of colors which we loved. Our countertops were installed and the installation is perfect as is the beautiful color and pattern). The problem is that the countertops are not uniformly glossy at any viewing angle. Independent of the stone variations it is completely speckled with dime sized to half dollar sized spots and rough and diveted in these areas.(that is the overwhelming feature at this point!). It looks like acid was dropped all over it. I've notified the store we made the purchase through, and the manufacturer who promptly sent a rep this morning to view this mess and was told that is the way it should look because "stone is imperfect". they actually went so far to tell me they don't do any polishing here that it was done in Italy. (where are my boots). After going directly and looking at this particular stone choice in gloss finish at three of this retail chains sister stores, two other indepent marble/granite stores, and numerous phone calls, I believe we do not have the finish we purchased. The rep tried to convince me first that we got what we got based upon this type of stone, regardless of the fact that of the beautiful gloss on their showroom sample/and the retail stores samples (incidentally, all three stores received their samples from three different granite places, hmmm...) We are very frustrated at this point. Can anyone offer further advice? Sharon, Oct 4, Reply

Q 2843: I am a general remodeling contractor...I have done hundreds of ceramic tile installations but have never moved into the natural stone installations. I have installed a 4x4 travertine backsplash in my own home and have bneen very pleased with the results. I have a client that wants me to install a similar backsplash in her kitchen. She is being sold advice as well as tints, sealers, and God knows what all! I have been up front with my experience levels and the client is conforable with that. She has been told that a color enhancer is absolutely necessary and the tiles must be sealed "before" installation. I have asked other contractors and suppliers and have received contradictary advice. With tile I normally do not seal grouts in low trafic or "clean" applications. The ceramic tile in my home has been down for 10 years without sealer and it still looks great. Being a kithchen I recomended sealing the travertine but would like your opinion on the procedure to use. Before or after installation? Before and after grout? or just one application after all is complete? I have read through your "to seal or not to seal" question and answer section but am still a little confused. Thanks Mark, Oct 4, Reply

R2: Mark, Hmmm, how best to start? Well if the travertine looks good wet to client then you will probably need to color enhance it. If the travertine has holes in it that the client does not want filled, you will apply a couple of coats of impregnator to the stone before grouting. Since it is in the kitchen I would apply several 1 per day of impregnator after the install to make it easier to wipe down. Depending on the type of impregnator you use it may need to be reapplied every year or so.
PS stone installations are more time consuming, but when complete look the best of all.
Regards Steven, Expert Panelist, USA, Expert Panelist

Q 2842: We are a paver company that has installed a few Turkish travertine paver jobs on pool decks. I love the profound color affect, washing travertine with muratic acid has. It deepens the color and almost looks like it seals up the pores. We rinse off the acid about one minute after putting it on. My question is, are there any long term problems that might come of this process? Alex, Oct 4, Reply

R1: Dear Alex: Although travertine is naturally quite a dense stone (very low absorbency rate), the washing with muriatic acid does further tightens the pores of the stone. No you will not have long term problems, providing that you don't repeat the procedure. One acid wash on any calcite-stone's lifetime is about all it can take. Ciao and good luck, Maurizio, USA, Expert panelist

R2: Rod, 1/4" grout joints? Well, what ever is done, is done. 1/16" joints are correct for this type of installation. Any type of impregnator should seal your grout. Your stone does not need an impregnator so be sure to keep it off the stone. Regards, Steven, Expert Panelist, USA, Expert Panelist

Q 2840: Hello. I wonder if you could recommend a cleaning product that I might use on marble headstones that are 19 years and 15 years old. Both headstones are in great need of cleaning....they have accumulated a lot of greenish algae/mould type of stuff over the years. They are inland and there are a number of trees in the cemetry, some nearby the headstones. Any help would be greatly appreciated as we have been quoted extremely high prices for this job to be done professionally and I have been informed that this will happen again if the work is not continued on a regular basis. Many thanks. Ronnie, Oct 4, Reply

R2: Ronnie, The stone has started a patina to protect itself. The truth is that it will have to be done regularly. Are you up to the consistancy required? If so, use a bleach solution (3 water 1 bleach), a scrub brush, and lots of elbow grease. Regards, Steven, Expert Panelist, USA, Expert Panelist

Q 2839: Hi, We are in the process of replacing our kitchen tile with Azul Bahia Extra. Can you tell me about this granite? After reading your postings on findstone.com, I'm not sure this is granite. I noticed that you did make a comment about it on Question 1049 so you seem to be familiar with this medium. Can you tell me if this is a good choice for kitchen countertops and backsplash. What we need to clean and maintain it I appreciate your help. This seems like one of the more expense granites when we were looking-we got quoted $137.00 a square foot so I want to make sure this is good stuff. This is a big undertaking for us since my husband is a teacher so I definitely want to do the research. Regards, Denise, Oct 3, Reply

R2: Hello Denise, Azul Bahia is a beautiful and exotic stone. Overall it is hard, however, it can be affected chemically by acids. Therefore purchase it with care. It will certainly be attractive. As this is not a very active quarry, be careful, and expect to review the slabs before the counters are made. Regards. Steven, Expert Panelist

Q 2838:  We have used tennessee sandstone to top a patio walk. We want to seal, but need to clean first. What can we use?, Don, Oct 3, Reply

Q 2837: I have gone through your site and not sure you can help me on this question. We are purchasing a home that currently has a fireplace with approximately 16 foot ceilings. Above the fireplace is an indentation that goes all the way up. We are considering installing a rock wall all the way up to the ceiling and around the fireplace. Where would I find information on how to do this ourselves (I have done several tiling projects including floors, walls, and countertops, although I realize this would be quite different). Do you have suggestions on what type of rock? Basalt is abundant around here and I have seen it used in other homes, although river rock is easy to get here too. Is one type of rock easier than another to install? Any info you can provide would be helpful. Thanks. Debi, Oct 3, Reply

Q 2835: I live in near the coast in Southern California and have a large quantity of Palos Verdes Stone (at least that's what it's called around here - It's basically white, flattish, irregularly shaped, 2 to 3 inches thick and can be found all over the area). I want to use it to create a patio area (10x24). I have heard of an installation technique that involves excavating 4 inches below grade. Then adding a 2" layer of a mixture of sand and portland cement. You then lay the stones on top of this layer, and fill between the stones with more of the mixture. Finally, lightly spray the patio to "set" the stones. Is this a good technique? What are the advantages/disadvantages? Do I need to have a "base" layer? Thanks in advance, Rick, Oct 2, Reply

R2: Rick. What I refered to as mud set is a wet mix of masonry cement (not portland) and sand mixed at a 3 to 1 ratio. Make sure to use masons sand (sometimes refered to as brick sand). Use enough water to create a nice plastic mix but not runny. A masonry cement mix keeps its temper and workability better than a portland mix in my opinion. Yes we do use the same mix for the joints, filling them as we lay the stone, and completely bedding each stone. After the mix has set up a bit ( depending on the stone anywhere from a half hour to several hours) go back over the joints with a wire brush and / or wisk broom to dress them. Also we wet the back (bottom) of the stone to help insure good bonding. Good luck, JVC, Expert Panelist

Q 2834: My name is Ahmed Hiyari and i am a tenth grade student that needs ur help. There is a question that asks what is the benefits of using granite or sandstone INSTEAD of using limestone for buildings.I would like to thank u for this concern and i would be pleased if u send me the answer as soon as possible.Thanks you., Ahmed, Oct 2, Reply

R1: Dear Ahmed: Sandstone and granite are silicate rocks and, as such are much more resistent to the weather (the natural acidity of rain -- 5.6 pH) than calcite-based stone, which will deteriorate bladly. Ciao and good luck, Maurizio.USA, Expert Panelist

R2:   Philip, WHAT DO YOU MEAN BY FLEXIBLE ADHESIVE? THAT MIGHT BE YOU PROBLEM BECAUSE YOU MUST CERTAINLY HAV NOT BONDED TO THE SUBSTRATE. JEFF IEUN

Q 2832: Hi,very helpful site.I have a slab of white carrera marble that I would like to use as a table top;I've had it smoothed and sealed but light orange scorch marks remain from when somebody used an angle grinder near it;this is a shame as i do not want to discard it.Is there any procedure and/or chemical that will' bleach' these marks out?Also,I would like to work with marble myself and need to know where I can get materials,sealer,advice(other than here!)I live about two hours south of London.Much obliged, Phil,Oct 2, Reply

Q 2831: Do you have information on pietra grigio stone? Wrote this down some time ago, can't remember where I got the information - indistructible, honed finish, can put hot items on it, warmer feel than granite. Muller, Oct 2, Reply

Q 2830: I am building a second story balcony with 1 1/8" thick T&G plywood supported on 16" centers. It is glued and nailed to the floor joists. There is a roof over the balcony, and an outdoor patio below, except a small portion of the balcony which is over the living room below. The floor is sloped at more than 1/4" per foot for drainage. waterproof membranes for use under the stone. I guess what I am looking for is a product with a detailed crossectional drawing of an installation over a plywood substrate. Or, better yet, advice on a system which really works.
I guess if I had to make up my own system with what I know now I'd do this:
Screw down the plywood.
Nail down valley flashing over the living room. Use roof cement at the laps.
Put a drip edge on the outside.
Cover the floor with 2 layers of 30# modified roofing underlayment. Use roof cement at the laps.
Screw down a tile backer board.
Mop the backer board with Jamo
Put the secondary wall flashing over the Jamo
-- I might be missing something here-- Set the stone in a mortar bed Put the primary flashing over the stone.
Advice would be appreciated. Thanks, Eric, Oct 2, Reply

Q 2829: Need info on how to firmly hold a stencil on sandstone while sandblasting lettering? Thanks, Paul, Oct 2, Reply