| Q 7859:
I just had 3 x 6 brick tumbled marble
installed in my kitchen for the backsplash. The color is chairo and
I used almond grout. Now that the job is completed, I wish I had used
a darker grout. The almond grout is too light and the tiles almost
look white washed. Is it possible to change the grout color or use
a product to color the grout without ruining the tiles? thanks, jeanie
|
R1:
Dear Jeanie: Stains for grout work quite well, but nobody can guarantee
you that they won’t stain the marble, as well. Applying an impregnator
sealer to the stone won’t help much, either, for the stain would
be most likely absorbed from the side of the tile, not from the top.
In one short sentence: it’s going to be a risky business!
Maurizio, Expert Panelist |
| Q 7858:
I have a slate fire harth and surround,
we use slate oil to feed the stone but have been informed by a supplier
not to waste our money and to use vegtable oil instead.Q: Is this
true or do we run the risk of damaging the slate, Reply
|
| R1:
Dear Nigel:No, you won’t be damaging the slate by using vegetable
oil, but it will rancid within your stone. So, if you don’t mind
too much the rotten smell of rancid oil … Tell your supplier
to use vegetable oil to dress their brains! Maurizio, Expert Panelist
|
| Q 7857:
My architect suggests a Baseltina kitchen
countertop over granite, "because it is more uniform in color,
and doesn't require sealing." Should I stick with granite or
consider the baseltina? Many, many thanks. Ken P, Reply
|
| R1:
Dear Kenneth: Theres no doubt that basaltina has a uniform color,
but from this to being dense to the point of not needing any sealing??...
Basaltina is an EXTREMELY porous stone and only massif doses of the
"right" impregnator, applied in the "right" way
could tame such a "sponge"! Maurizio, Expert Panelist |
| Q 7856:
I estimate we will need 1-2 slabs.
Our budget cap is $4500, but of course, we would like to pay less.
We want Paradiso Light granite countertop with 18" backsplash
and an undermount sink. Is it a given that if we currently have an
18" backsplash then we have to replace it with an 18" backsplash?
We'd like to start as soon as possible. I don't want to use the yellow
pages because I don't know the quality of their work. Nicole, Reply
|
| R1:
Dear Gene: In an industry that’s virtually unregulated, how good
and reputable the fabricator who’s is going to process the stone
you’ll end up choosing is far more important than the stone itself.
None of the horror stories that get posted in this very site stem
from the stone itself: they all stem from the fabricator. That is
why I seldom make final statements about any one particular stone.
There may be differences within the same stone (and I’m not talking
about looks, here!) from one bundle of slabs and the next. The slabs
may have also been either “doctored” (which is bad), or
“resined” (which could be good, but only to a certain extent)
by the factory, which would make a big difference. Maurizio, Expert
Panelist |
| Q 7855:
Hi: I just had a creamy coloured limestone
laid in my bathroom. The tiles had been sealed prior to installation.
I selected grey grout and when the installer started to grout the
job he noticed that the dye from the grout stained the limestone.
He stopped as soon as he realized this. He has been trying to remove
the stains by using muriatic acid. The staining is not as bad as it
was but it is still noticable and those tiles he has worked on are
not nearly as smooth as those that have not had any acid put on them.
We are not able to get any more of this particular limestone, so replacing
the stained tiles is not an option. I am a little nervous wondering
if these tiles will stand up over time or will they be more apt to
discolour due to the acid. Can you offer any advice as to how to remove
the stains or should the tiles be removed and a new product installed.
I would like to resolve this in a manner that is reasonable concerning
all parties. Thanks Sharon, Reply |
R1:
Dear Sharon: Let's start from the beginning.
1. I recommended time and again to stay away from limestone.
2. Sealing tiles before installation is a total waste of time and
money.
3. You do not want to use a grout of a color different from the (stone)
tiles: the die of the grout will be absorbed by the side of the tile
in contact with the grout and the stain will be permanent. Translation:
it can't be removed, period.
4. Only an idiot with the I.Q. of a carrot will ever use muriatic
acid on natural stone, let alone lame limestone!
Shall I say more?... Oh, yes, did I tell you not to use limestone
anywhere in the house?
What to do? This side of ripping out the whole stupid floor and install
a better material (hiring a different tile setter), you could call
a bona fide stone restoration contractor to fix at the possible best
the damage caused by the muriatic acid by re-honing the whole floor
(BIG $$), but that won't solve one bit the staining problem.
Okay, after all this battering let me give you the silver lining of
the whole thing: it's only money!! Maurizio, Expert Panelist |
| Q 7854:
Do you have an opinion about using
vermont slate for a countertop? How does it compare to granite, soapstone
or caeserstone? Reply |
R1:
Dear Inquirer: Indeed I have an opinion! Slate is far too an inferior
product to be compared with granite.
Regardless, don't concentrate on the material: concentrate on the
person who's going to process it! Maurizio, Expert Panelist |
Q 7853:
We had Baltic Brown granite installed
in our new home. We chose the level 2 granite or tier II in pricing
of the 3 tiers. The slap which was installed is heavily pitted and
does not have smooth texture when viewed at an offset. I mean it does
not look completely smooth. We presume this is substandard.
Do some fabricators use some type of epoxy which covers these pits
and then the epoxy comes out later or wears off. We are not willing
to accept this sub standard slap. What can we do though?
Is t his less than quality granite or a rejected or is this consistent
with Baltic Brown?
Where is Baltic Brown from, the Baltic region of Finland?
Thank you for having this advice section and the expert panelist have
been very informative. We love granite and wanted this to be the showcase
of our new home. Mike and Vanessa, Reply |
R1:
Dear Mike and Vanessa: What can I tell you, other than Baltic Browm
comes from Saudi Arabia and that it does present pitts more than average?
Is your slab a low-grade? How could I possibly tell without actually
seeing it? And then again, it would only be my opinion, since there's
no offcial criteria to go by at grading slabs of different materials.
This is a great industry ideed to be in: no geological classification
of the different stones, no grading, no certification programs for
contractors ... nothing!! But that's okay: all consumers do is report
their gripes on line ... It's like with our politicians: they are
corrupt, they screw us over all the time, but then we elect always
the same people!
And the show goes on. Maurizio, Expert Panelist |
Q 7852:
I am planning to install Blue eyes
for out kitchen counter top. Does it need to be sealed? And whats
the best way to care for it? I also have a question about measuring
for a countertop. When me n the hubby measured all the counter tops
& the blacksplash. Even after adding the 15% for bull nosing we
ended up with 40 Sq FT. less
than an in home estimate that we got. Are we being taken for a ride?
And also do we pay for "granite" slabs or just the sq. ft
used? Thanks Shaloo,USA, Reply |
R1:
Dear Shaloo: There's nothing written in stone that says that 15% waste
ratio is the rule to go by. It all depends on the stone and/or the
slab. Like most other inquirers at this stage you seem only interested
in the color of the “granite” and/or its physical characteristics.
How about if I tell you that a certain “granite” is a good
choice and then you get a low-grade slab?
In an industry that’s virtually unregulated, how good and reputable
the fabricator who’s is going to process the stone you’ll
end up choosing is far more important than the stone itself. None
of the horror stories that get posted in this very site stem from
the stone itself: they all stem from the fabricator. That is why I
seldom make final statements about any one particular stone. There
may be differences within the same stone (and I’m not talking
about looks, here!) from one bundle of slabs and the next. The slabs
may have also been either “doctored” (which is bad), or
“resined” (which could be good, but only to a certain extent)
by the factory, which would make a big difference. Even more important,
what’s a good stone in the hands of some “Michelangelo”?!
And again: a reputable fabricator will only carry high-grade slabs,
not some “special!” Maurizio, Expert Panelist |
| Q 7851:
We installed Amber fantasy in April
of this year and I put a pumpkin up there on the ledge and it began
to rot. I now have a pumpkin stain and my silly husband tried to blow
dry it to get it to dry as he thought it was wet. It was sealed with
some kind of sealer when installed and then we did it again a month
later. Do you have any help on getting this stain out, can it come
out? Thank you for any help you can give me. Could you please send
anwser to me at email address as I am legally blind and searching
thru lots of questions can be very difficult for me. I thank you again
for any help or suggestions. Brenda Lotts, Reply |
R1:
Dear Brenda: I need more information than that.
What is this Amber Fantasy, a "granite" or marble?
What does the stain look like, is it darker or lighter than the rest
of the stone? Maurizio, Expert Panelist |
| Q 7850:
I just had Ubatuba Gold installed yesterday
and am wondering whether I should have it sealed. I would love to
know whether to seal it, and what the best way to clean on a daily
basis is? Are there any retail/grocery store type of cleaners that
can be used daily? Like Fantastic or something like that. I'm sort
of the spray cleaner queen. I used to use Windex on everything, but
now I know I can't do that on my granite. Thanks so much for your
help! Mo, Reply |
R1:
Dear Mo: Your Ubatuba (Charnockite) does not need to be sealed.
If you reached the conclusion (and a right one at that) that it is
not safe using a glass cleaner on your Ubatuba, why should Fantasik
(or other products like that) be any safer, considering that it's
certainly arsher than a glass cleaner? Maurizio, Expert Panelist |
Q 7849:
Our house keepers have recommended
purchasing a steam cleaner for our
Travertine and Limestone floors. Is this effective and more importantly
safe for the floors? Michael, Reply |
| R1:
Dear Michael: Your housekeeper is right, a steam-cleaner is a
very good cleaning tool. As for being safe on your travertine and
limestone it all depends on the chemical you're going to mix with
the water. My outlandish MB-1 would be a terrific product to use!
Maurizio, Expert Panelist |
| Q 7848:
We just built our house and I have
a chocolate brown marble vanity (Emperadore Dark). The marble is sealed.
I made the mistake of putting the lid to a bottle of waterproof mascara
remover onto the marble and it has left a ring on the marble. I tried
a poultice from StoneTech that is specifically for Oil Stain Removal,
to no avail. Have you any suggestions? Thanks, in advance for your
advice. Debbie in Vancouver., Reply |
R1:
Debbie: What does your ring look like? Is it darker or is it lighter
than the stone? I bet it's lighter, right?
Why don't you ask the technicians of Stone Tech? They know everything
about stone maintenance and then some! Just the fact that they sell
a poulticing kit speak volume about their skills (marketing skills,
that is)!BTW, did you know that your marble didn't need to be sealed?
Maurizio, Expert Panelist |
Q 7847:
One year ago, we had our bathroom redone.
The contractor did not seal the stone and I (out of ignorance) used
cleaner that I now know shouldn't have been used. The shower has light
water drips and or lines on the walls. Some of the pieces "appear"
to be bleached. How can I restore this stone and then properly seal
it?
Thanks-Eileen, Reply |
R1:
Dear Eileen: The lack of sealing of the stone has nothing to do with
what happened. Even if it was sealed it would have happened anyway
and just as much: the wrong cleaner you used corroded (etched) the
surface of your stone, and no sealer for stone ever offer any protectio0n
to the stone surface. In the Helpful Hints section vof my website
listed below you will able to read 4 difeerent FREE articles about
stone sealers.
Your only option now is to hire a bona fide stone restoration contractor
who will lightly grind (hone) and polish your stone.
Now, you’d better watch out! I consider stone refinishing as
the very pinnacle of all the activities related to stone from a professional
point of view. Unfortunately, there are a lot of quacks on the loose
out there!
How could you tell a champ from a chomp? Could you trust the recommendation
of your local stone distributor, or contractor, or your interior decorator?
Hardly! Maurizio, Expert Panelist |
| Q 7846:
I just had beautiful polished marble
tiles installed throughout my house. I am disappointed at the lack
of shine and what appears to be some type of residue or streaking
on them. I purchased marble cleaner and cleaned the entire floor,
attempting to buff and polish with a cotton rags as I went and still
lack of luster and streaking, spots in some places. Is it something
the installer did, or a cleaning tip I need to learn. Help (and thanks)
, Reply |
R1:
Dear Beth: I'm afraid I have some bad news for you. For what you're
reporting to me your installer must have used some acidic cleaner
to remove the grout film and permantently etched your floor all over.
I sure hopw I'm wrong this time, because it's going to cost you plenty
to have if professionally repaired!:-(
I believe that your installer - who obviously never installed marble
tiles before - should pay for it. I also hope he didn't use floor
grout (with sand in it) for your floor.
Your only option is to hire a bona fide stone restoration contractor
who will lightly grind (hone) and polish your stone.
Now, you'd better watch out! I consider stone refinishing as the very
pinnacle of all the activities related to stone from a professional
point of view. Unfortunately, there are a lot of quacks on the loose
out there! And your poor marble floor already took enough beating!!
How could you tell a champ from a chomp? Could you trust the recommendation
of your local stone distributor, or contractor, or your interior decorator?
Hardly! Maurizio, Expert Panelist |
| Q 7845:
Hi, I am planning to re-model my kitchen.
i would liket use granite counter tops and tiles. could give me some
tips about buing granite? Reply |
| R1:
Dear Inquirer: In an industry that’s virtually unregulated, how
good and reputable the fabricator who’s is going to process the
stone you’ll end up choosing is far more important than the stone
itself. None of the horror stories that get posted in this very site
stem from the stone itself: they all stem from the fabricator. That
is why I seldom make final statements about any one particular stone.
There may be differences within the same stone (and I’m not talking
about looks, here!) from one bundle of slabs and the next. The slabs
may have also been either “doctored” (which is bad), or
“resined” (which could be good, but only to a certain extent)
by the factory, which would make a big difference. Even more important,
what’s a good stone in the hands of some “Michelangelo”?!
And again: a reputable fabricator will only carry high-grade slabs,
not some “special!” Maurizio, Expert Panelist |
| Q 7844:
I have cafe brown granite in my kitchen
they sealed it right after it was installed by spraying a product
on it and then wiping it off. The problem I am having is there is
a filmy residue all over the granite. I was using" The Works"
window cleaner on this, it is ammonia free. I talked to the place
where we got it from and they sent me out a sealer called HMK S34
silicone impregnator. I have applied this two times like they said
and I have water rings and this filmly residue . I have tried using
windex- that didn't work, I also tried using straight vinegar to remove
the film, that didn't work either. I am starting to think i should
have installed formica. I sure hope you can help. Thanks jean, Reply |
R1:
Dear Jean: No, you shouldn’t have installed Formica: should have
chosen a fabrication facility where they know what they’re doing
when it comes to maintenance of the stone! The stone is innocent,
the man is an idiot!
It won’t be easy to remove the residue of the impregnator/sealer
that you now have sitting on your countertop, but I am sure that the
“genius” who made all that good money out of you and who
told you to apply that stupid thing to your stone believing that it
was granite, will know for sure how to solve your problem. Windex?
Vinegar?... Boy, what else do you want to do to your poor stone?!
What on earth did it do to you to be punished like that?! You’d
better use those “stone cleaners” on the brains of your
“Michelangelo”! Maurizio, Expert Panelist |
| Q 7843:
We are building a home and I have selected
Giallo Ornamentalfor our kitchen countertops. Knowing that all "granites"
are not created equal, I am curious if this stone should be sealed.
I have not yet picked out our slab, so I wanted to be infrmed before
I meet with the supplier. DW CHarleston, Reply
|
R1:
Dear Diane: Giallo Ornamentale typically does need to be sealed, and
thoroughly at that! But then again, if the slab had been resined by
the factory, it may not.
And about picking out your slab, do you have any idea what you have
to look for, beside (and above all) the way it looks?
Like most other inquirers at this stage you seem only interested in
the color of the “granite” and/or its physical characteristics.
How about if I tell you that a certain “granite” is a good
choice and then you get a low-grade slab because, maybe, you end up
dealing with a fabricator that buys into “special offers”
from local distributors of slabs? Maurizio, Expert Panelist |
| Q 7842:
We are trying to choose between Cobra
soapstone (said to be harder than most) and honed black granite on
our kitchen countertops and island. We are going for a period look
with white cabinetry and wood floors. Our problem is that the soapstone
only comes in 30 inch widths and we would have to have a seam across
our 6'5" x 5 ' island. With the honed granite we would not need
a seam in the island. We've been told soapstone seams are less visible
than granite seams, but we are still concerned that such a long seam
across the island won't look great. To seam or not to seam, this is
the question? Reply
|
R1:
“To seam or not to seam, this is the question!”
I love your sense of humor, but that is the wrong question!
Soapstone is WAY less maintenance then honed black granite!! But then
again, like most other inquirers at this stage you seem only interested
in the color of the stones you’re considering and/or their physical
characteristics. In an industry that’s virtually unregulated,
how good and reputable the fabricator who’s is going to process
the stone you’ll end up choosing is far more important than the
stone itself. None of the horror stories that get posted in this very
site stem from the stone itself: they all stem from the fabricator.
That is why I seldom make final statements about any one particular
stone. There may be differences within the same stone (and I’m
not talking about looks, here!) from one bundle of slabs and the next.
The slabs may have also been either “doctored” (which is
bad), or “resined” (which could be good, but only to a certain
extent) by the factory, which would make a big difference. Even more
important, what’s a good stone in the hands of some “Michelangelo”?!
And again: a reputable fabricator will only carry high-grade slabs,
not some “special!” Maurizio, Expert Panelist |
| Q 7841:
I am renovating my kitchen and it is
time to choose the granite for the countertops and a kitchen table.
I am considering Santa Cecelia, Imperial Coffe or Shivakashi for the
counters and the tabletop. I am concerned about the Shivakasi the
most, although I think it is a beautiful stone. The stone dealer told
he he gets his Shivakashi from Italy but from what I have read it
comes from India. Any advice regarding these stones in a kitchen and
for a tabletop would be greatly appreciated. Thanks. Laura, Reply |
| R1:
Dear Laura: You’re right, Shivakashi is Orthogneiss from India.
But your stone dealer may be right, too: many Italian manufacturers
buy blocks of stone from all over the world and process them into
slabs or tiles. But it doesn’t make much difference. Like most
other inquirers at this stage you seem only interested in the color
of the “granite” and/or its physical characteristics. How
about if I tell you that a certain “granite” is a good choice
and then you get a low-grade slab because, maybe, you end up dealing
with a fabricator that buys into “special offers” from local
distributors of slabs? Maurizio, Expert Panelist |
Q 7840:
I've read your comments on other stones
and granites. What is your opinion on Juperano Fantstico?
Which do you consider the better stone - Juperano Fantstico or Giallo
Veneziano? thanks, Karen, Reply |
| R1:
Dear Karen: Like most other inquirers at this stage you seem only
interested in the color of the “granite” and/or its physical
characteristics. How about if I tell you that a certain “granite”
is a good choice and then you get a low-grade slab because you end
up dealing with a fabricator that buys into “special offers”
from local distributors of slabs? Maurizio, Expert Panelist |
| Q 7839:
I have approximately 2,000 sq. ft.
of granite installed. It was honed but still has shiny marks throughout
it. It is specifically predominant around the edges of the 12”
tiles. Is there an acidic or chemical method by which I may balance
the honing to a flat dull tone? The area of flooring is not large
enough for a honing machine to go in and grind it down. If done mechanically,
it would have to be done by hand. Reply |
R1:
Dear Dan: The only acid that could affect granite is Hydrofluoric
Acid, but - believe you me - you do NOT want to go that route to do
your honing!! It would turn out a total mess.
What baffles me is your statement that a grinding machine (which could
be a small as 21” diameter) could not fit on a 2000 square feet
of floor!... That must be the heck of a machine!! Maurizio, Expert
Panelist |
Q 7838:
I was wondering if you could please
give me some advice. We just had our kitchen counters installed. "Shrimp
Red Granite" Looks great. Polished. Installers sealed it once
and told us to seal it 2 more times. We have sealed it 4 more times
now.If you leave something wet on it for 30mins or so, it will leave
a darker spot. It will eventually disappear (after 10 mins or so).
Is this normal? Should we find a different sealer? Should we seal
it again ? thank you very much !!!
Liliana, Reply |
| R1:
Dear Liliana: Your countertop is clearly not sealed. Don’t change
bland: just keep on sealing making sure that you remove every residue
off of the stone surface and wait for at least 24 hours in between
applications. Maurizio, Expert Panelist |
Q 7837:
I wasn't sure which email address to
use. There is a question on the web site number 1622 that doesn't
appear to have an answer and I had the same question. Can you advise?
We have floors with white honed and unsealed marble and want to clean
the white grout in between without damaging the marble. Michael, Reply |
| R1:
Dear Michael: Nothing beats good ol’ bleach (1:3 with warm water),
an old toothbrush, some patience and lots of elbow grease!! Maurizio,
Expert Panelist |
| Q 7836:
We decided to replace our kitchen counters
with granite but when we went to purchase, were told that quartz is
a better choice. The salesperson told us that granite needs more care
(using bleach and a sealer), while quartz is maintenance-free. He
also told us that DuPont's product is best. The price of the two were
about the same. What do you recommend? Thanks, Reply |
| R1:
Dear Gwen: What do I recommend? Granite across the board six days
from Sunday! Bleach and a sealer, huh … What a hogwash!! Sure,
you must be careful when selecting a granite countertop, because if
you stumble upon “informed salespersons” like the one you
spoke to, you’d be only dealing with idiots, and you can’t
expect anything good from idiots, can you?! :-) And BTW, engineered
stone (quartz) is NOT maintenance free. (Nothing is!) For certain
aspects is more delicate than granite. Like most other inquirers at
this stage you seem only interested in the color of the “granite”
and/or its physical characteristics. How about if I tell you that
a certain “granite” is a good choice and then you get a
low-grade slab? Maurizio, Expert Panelist |
Q 7835:
I fell in love with the look of Black
Absoulte Granite. I was told
that black absolute granite is NOT a good choice for kitchen countertops.
I was told that it is hard to hide the seems (can not match grout)
and everything shows up easier than lighter colors. Is there any solutions
to blending the grout so that the seems flow, and is there a good
sealer to help protect from water spots ect.? Reply |
R1:
Dear Serina: I have a black granite countertop in my extremely
busy kitchen for well over 8 years now! The seams? You can barely
see them! It all depends how good the fabricator is!
Yes, it does show soil more readily than a lighter color. It’s
like a car: I always buy silver cars because they won’t show
dirt as much as a black of blue one, but … when it comes to my
kitchen countertop, where hygiene is paramount, I don’t want
to hide dirt. I do want to know when it’s clean! And nothing
more than black will tell me that!!
As for the sealing issue, I never sealed my countertop, because you
do NOT want to seal black granite. Unless, of course, you like to
get “water stains”!!
Beware that there are lots of bad black granites out there! Do my
lemon juice (and oil) test religiously before making a final selection!
All in all, however, what I notice is that like most other inquirers
at this stage you seem only interested in the color of the “granite”
and/or its physical characteristics. How about if I tell you that
a certain “granite” is a good choice and then you get a
low-grade slab? Maurizio, Expert Panelist |
| Q 7834:
We live in the pacific northwest where
we receive an abundance of rain (snow maybe once or twice a year).
We have received mixed advice about using Travertine as a flooring
surface for an outdoor patio and walkway. Too soft (although you mentioned
earlier not soft at all). Too porous. (Pores can be filled, no?).
Of course, we are considering an unpolished surface, if we in fact
go with the Travertine. Thank you in advance for any advice you can
give. Sincerely, Timothea, Reply |
R1:
Dear Timothea: Contrary to widespread popular misconception travertine
is hard and dense. This is not my opinion: it’s a scientific
fact not open for debate. The Ancient Romans paved roads with travertine
and built the Coliseum with it. Of course, by now those roads have
been covered with asphalt, but the last time I checked the Coliseum
was still there after over 2500 years!! I also have the funny feeling
that they never applied any impregnator/sealer to it!!
In Rome it rains a lot and they have snow a couple of times every
couple of years. Maurizio, Expert Panelist |
Q 7833:
We recently purchased a new home with
travertine tile floors throughout the entry and kitchen. The original
installer made two vital mistakes. First, he applied the wrong type
of sealer for a natural stone tile floor, and second, he did not clean
the grout residue before applying the wrong sealer. The sealer was
unable to absorb into the tile and dried on top creating a horrible
haze. We had a marble restoration company come out and "sand"
the floors to remove this sealer. Then they repolished and sealed
the stone with an impregnator. The technician stated that he had a
hard time getting this stuff off and had to sand longer than normal.
Now the filler is falling out all over the place. I have up to 6 holes
in more than 50% of my tiles. It looks horrible. The installation
company wants to simply "refill" the holes. I am thinking
the floor should be replaced. This is a large area and so many tiles
are affected it seems to be beyond what a "patch" job can
do. Do you think it is reasonable to repair the floors or should they
be replaced? Also, what is to stop the other tiles that have not fallen
apart yet to start? Thanks for the help. Elizabeth. Parker, Colorado.
Reply
|
R1:
Dear Elisabeth: Oh, your setter used the wrong sealer all right! Polished
travertine should not be sealed at all!!
As for the re-filling, it’s a normal procedure, and you have
no recourse to having the floor replaced on that ground. Now the question
is: who’s going to do the filling?? The same restoration company
that used an impregnator/sealer on the travertine after polishing
it? And how about if they are responsible for the removal of the filler
because instead of actually polishing your floor they frigging “Crystallized”
it?? There’s no way that they can convince me that to remove
some stupid dried-on impregnator and grout film they had to hone more
than normal! Bottom line, no matter what, the stone restoration company
is responsible for the re-filling of the holes, providing that they
know what they’re doing. The setter is off the hook once he hired
(and paid for) the stone restoration contractor. Maurizio, Expert
Panelist |
| Q 7832:
We have a marble tub that we have had
for 16 years. It seems to be wearing in certain spots and has lost
its shine in spots. What would you suggest to do? Thanks. Reply |
R1:
Dear Lloyd: Your only option is to hire a bona fide stone restoration
contractor who will lightly grind (hone) and polish your stone. Now,
you’d better watch out! I consider stone refinishing as the very
pinnacle of all the activities related to stone from a professional
point of view. Unfortunately, there are a lot of quacks on the loose
out there!
How could you tell a champ from a chomp? Could you trust the recommendation
of your local stone distributor, or contractor, or your interior decorator?
Hardly! Maurizio, Expert Panelist |
Q 7831:
Hi all. I'm very glad I stumbled across
your web site. It's sort of a bitter sweet finding, I'm glad I have
someplace to go where I can find people who actually possess knowledge
about granite at the same time I'm upset to learn I may have bought
a granite that is not "granite."
To the point! I bought a condo and I'm in the process of renovating
the whole place so I can't afford slab granite for my kitchen countertops
at the this time. I'm doing the job myself and I decided to save some
money I would do granite tiles for my countertops. It took me a long
time to find the correct Blue Pearl I wanted. It had to be a light
shade and what some call Flec Blue Pearl or Royale Blue Pearl. Some
mistakenly call it GT Blue Pearl, which I learned is a term for granite
with smaller mica. At any rate. I've installed the polished Flec Blue
Pearl 12x12 tile and it looks great! I have yet to grout it, seal
it and do the edging for the countertop but I'm glad I found you guys
first! I have two questions; Is my granite "granite" and
if so should it be sealed? I'm kind of embarrassed to ask but I don't
want you to yell at me later. Secondly, I'm finishing the 2"
front edge of the countertop with the same tile but I would like to
polish the edge of the tile to match the top. Some have told me to
use sand paper and elbow grease but I don't think that's gonna cut
it. Can you advise me on how to get the same shine as on the top of
the tile. I do have a 10,000 rpm Dewalt 4-1/2" angle grinder
to help with the job. Thank you so much in advance. Robert, Reply |
R1:
Dear Robert: Flec Blue Pearl?? Royal Blue Pearl?? Never heard of those
things!!
Regular Blue Pearl (the lighter color with smaller crystals) is Syenite
also dubbed Larvikite (from the Norwegian village it’s quarried
from). Blue Peral GT is still coming from Norway, by from the Northern
part of the country. It’s much darker it has much larger crystals
and is Anorthosite. Having said that, whether or not it needs to be
impregnated is something that you’re going to have to find out
by yourself. Rely on my little lemon juice (and oil) test to find
out. Usually Blue Pearl does not need to be sealed, but this …
Flec one??! … :-)
About the polishing of the edge of the tiles, forget it: have a fabrication
shop do it for you. Maurizio, Expert Panelist |
| Q 7830:
We have a new beautiful motorhome with
granite counter tops and marble kitchen and bathroom floors. Other
than water, what is the recommended cleaner for the marble floor.
Also, where the kitchen slides in, (the motorhome has 4 slides including
the kitchen) there appears to be spots, (probably water from the pipes
or plumbing and a straight mark where the wood at the base of the
slide has rubbed. These blemishes appear to be superficial. The manufacturer
(Travel Supreme Select) gave us your website for references on marble
in the list of instructions and care of everything in and about this
motorhome. Would sure like to hear from you. Thank you, mlm, Reply |
R1:
Dear Mary Lu: It sure sounds like a terrific motor-home!
However, just the fact that’s a motor-home instead of a “regular”
home does not solve the problem of the maintenance of marble in a
kitchen! Mobile or sill, a kitchen is always a kitchen! And polished
marble in a kitchen is a losing proposition, period, end of story,
no debate, done. Maurizio, Expert Panelist |
| Q 7829:
I have a rather odd question about limestone
countertop care. I have heard that in old European kitchens these
stones are rubbed with olive oil or some other non-mineral oil instead
of using sealants. What would happen to a Jerusalem limestone that
was rubbed regularly with oil. I have to confess I like the idea of
just using a natural product to maintain my countertops. Thanks for
your input. Robin, Reply. |
| R1:
Dear Robin: I was born and raised in the Mediterranean Basin (I was
37 when I came across the pond), but I never heard of such idiotic
thing as treating stone with olive oil. You like the idea of a “natural
treatment”?? How about having “naturally rancid” olive
oil deeply imbedded in your stoner??! But, hey, it’s a “natural”
rotten smell!! (Keep your windows open!!)Man, I’ve got to put
this one in my “special collection”!! :-) Maurizio, Expert
Panelist |
| Q 7828:
I've just bought brazilian black granite
countertops. Lowes said the tops were already sealed before arriving
at my house. I've read your articles, so should I strip off everything
then use a stone color enhancer then sealer, or don't seal it at all
because it's black granite. I'm confused and I need to know what products
I need to purchase from you. Thanks, Cheryl, Reply. |
R1:
Dear Cheryl: Let’s slow down a little bit! You didn’t even
tell me if your black granite is polished or honed. It does make a
big difference in the way it has to be treated. Let me know. Maurizio,
Expert Panelist
|
| Q 7827:
I just came upon yur site. Great information.
I have a large kitchen with mable floor. the previous owners must
have cleaned with harsh cleaners. The shinny finish is rough and dull
over most of the floor. Is it possible to put a coat of polyurothene
on the floor. And if so how will it hold up? Also, do you know how
much it cost to have a floor restored by a professional? Floor is
about 17 x 19. Thanks, Reply |
R1:
Dear Sharri: The answer to your first question is a huge NO!!
As for the cost of having the floor professionally restored, it depends:
a good professional wouldn’t charge less than $1,200/1,500. A
quack may be happy with half that! It all depends if you want a real
pro or a quack!
You’d better watch out! I consider stone refinishing as the very
pinnacle of all the activities related to stone from a professional
point of view. Unfortunately, there are a lot of quacks on the loose
out there!
How could you tell a champ from a chomp? Could you trust the recommendation
of your local stone distributor, or contractor, or your interior decorator?
Hardly! Maurizio, Expert Panelist |
| Q 7826:
I have iron hand rails imbedded in
a granite step leading to my front entrance. The iron has rusted and
bled onto the step. What can i use to get rid of this stain ,I tried
a cleaner and the stain seemed to spread. Reply |
| R1:
Dear Edward: For as long as the iron will stay imbedded in your granite,
the more you will attempt to remove the rust stain, the worse you
will make it. Maurizio, Expert Panelist |
| Q 7825:
Dear Mauricio: Last month we purchased
a one-year-old home with "absolute black" granite counters
(high gloss). I fell in love with the deep black, mirror-like surfaces!
The former owner said to use only water to clean them, and that household
products would destroy the sealant or coating - I can't remember the
exact term. So I used only water and all was well.
I told my new cleaning lady to use
only water, but I came home last night to find that the finish has
a slightly cloudy, mottled look to it. It's not streaky, but seems
as if the texture of the granite below is affecting the shine. She
claims she only used water (of course this isn't true) so unfortunately
I'll never know for sure which household product she used to clean
them (maybe Windex or 409?) I tried wiping them down with water
andbuffing with a soft cloth, with no success.
Bottom line ... I am SICK about this. They are still shiny, but
there'sthat subtle haze in certain lights. Can you recommend any
method to eliminate this, and return to the mirror-like surface?
I can't believe that one-time use of a household product affect
the granite, but it has. Many thanks in advance for any suggestions
you may provide! Deborah, Reply
|
R1:
Dear Deborah: Would you shower with only water? Would you do your
dishes with only water? Would you do your laundry with only water?
Of course not: water doesn’t cut it! So then, why should only
water be enough to clean a kitchen countertop??! It’s hard to
tell what happened to your countertop, but I can assure you that a
one-time use of regular household cleaning product could not damage
black granite, in any way, shape or form! Maurizio, Expert Panelist |
| Q 7824:
We had black galaxy granite countertops
installed two months ago. Everything was fine until today when some
water was left on the counter for a few hours. It resulted in a circle
of discoloration. What are your suggestions for correcting this? MA,
Reply |
| R1:
Dear MA: I have a Black Galaxy countertop in my owno ultr-busy kitchen
for well over 8 years now and never had any problem! Maurizio, Expert
Panelist |
| Q 7823:
I am thinking of using Teakwood/Jaselmer
Yellow slabs for my kitchen/dining flooring and Kota blue for living/family
room. I like the color and character they add to my living spaces,
but I have heard that they are very porous and are not suited for
the above said use. Please let me know the pros and cons of these
and what are my alternatives. Thanks and looking forward to your reply
in anticipation, Vidya Murthy, Reply |
| R1:
Dear Vidya: If somebody would have told me that Jaselmer Yellow and
Kota Blue were two types of cheese from Finland I would have believed
him! I never heard of those stones – at least not under that
name. But if you want me to do some research for you about them, let
me know and I’ll tell you how much is going to cost. Maurizio,
Expert Panelist |
| Q 7822:
I have found your website very helpful
for basic knowledge about granite. We are in process of selecting
granite for our kitchen counters, please advise. We are considering
Sapphire Brown or Amadeus. Can you please give us your expert opinion/guidance
on which would be a better choice. thanks, Karim, Reply |
| R1:
Dear Karim: The better choice is the better fabricator, not the better
stone! Like most other inquirers at this stage you seem only interested
in the color of the “granite” and/or its physical characteristics.
How about if I tell you that a certain “granite” is a good
choice and then you get a low-grade slab? Maurizio, Expert Panelist
|
| Q 7821:
I am wanting to put a slate tile down
for my kitchen counter tops and my girlfriend is concerned about it
staining. I understand that slate doesn't need to be sealed but is
there a "best way" to seal it? From what I have gathered
she is more concerned with the roughness of it and how hard it will
be to wipe it down. So this kind of takes the oil option out of play.
Please help because I am in the process of putting it down now. Any
and all information and options you can provide will be greatly appreciated.
Thank you, Justin, Reply |
| R1:
Dear Justin: While you’re still in time, bring those slate
tiles back where you bought them and get a refund and go spend that
money on some celebration over how lucky you’ve been that somebody
warned you and you listened! There’s no maintenance procedure,
“very special sealer” or any other “miracle-in-a-bottle”
that will ever be able to overcome the first of all the problems you’re
going to have. Do NOT do it! Maurizio, Expert Panelist |
Q 7820:
I was just wondering if Violetta granite
(not tropical or green violetta) has a lot of pits in it. If granite
has pits, is there a way to hide them or make them less visible?
Also, I was told that once the counter top is installed, it is impossible
to have it re-polished.
Are the pits due to different types of granite, or is it the cause
of manufacturing or polishing?
I am planning on getting a Violtetta counter top, but I do not want
a granite that has a lot of pits. I have two friends with granite
counter tops; one has a counter top without any pits and the other
is pitted, which is the reason for my questions. Thank You Very Much,
Dean Miller, Reply |
R1:
Dear Dean: A good 95% of the stone traded as granite are related to
granite (and to each other) like a cat to a cow. So, which one “granites”
are you comparing?
Having said that, no more than 1% of all commercial granite (a few
hundred of them!), mostly dolerite and gabbro (but there could be
some other stone, too) have no pits. All the rest do. They are a natural
characteristic of the stone. Nothing to worry about from a sanitary
point of view. Don’t get too concerned about the stone: beware
of the man! Like most other inquirers at this stage you seem only
interested in the color of the “granite” and/or its physical
characteristics. How about if I tell you that a certain “granite”
is a good choice and then you get a low-grade slab? Maurizio, Expert
Panelist |
| Q 7819:
I'm considering giallo beach granite
from Brazil to use for my kitchen counters. Do you have any experience
with this type of stone or advice? Thanks, Leisel, Reply
|
R1:
Dear Leisel: Like most other inquirers at this stage you seem
only interested in the color of the “granite” and/or its
physical characteristics. How about if I tell you that a certain “granite”
is a good choice and then you get a low-grade slab?
Maurizio, Expert Panelist |
| Q 7818:
My Wife and I have been searching for
the right counter tops for our new home we are in the process of building.
The counters we like the look of best is granite. However, we like
the aspect of engineered surfaces like Cambria and Silestone that
are more durable and stain resistant. We looked at some more show
rooms yesterday, and now we are even more confused. We have always
liked Uba Tuba best. Now, my Wife found Tropic Brown and likes it
too, as I do. Then, we saw a bath vanity made of Golden Peach, which
we have never heard of. Is there much difference in these 3 choices?
Alan, Reply |
R1:
Dear Alan: Engineered stone more durable than granite?? More stain
resistant?? Over certain commercial granites, yes, over certain others,
no. At any rate, back to the stone now. Don’t concern yourself
with it: concern yourself with the man!
Like most other inquirers at this stage you seem only interested in
the color of the “granite” and/or its physical characteristics.
How about if I tell you that a certain “granite” is a good
choice and then you get a low-grade slab? Maurizio, Expert Panelist |
| Q 7817:
My husband and I are building a home.
We love the look of travertine for the foyer and the kitchen. Our
decorator doesn't recommend it and has steered us to some travertine
looking ceramic tile. The problem is, it still looks like tile, not
natural stone. What would you recommend? Is travertine that bad in
scratching and staining? Is there another natural stone that would
be better? Every person we speak to has a different answer, so we're
going to let you me the tie breaker! No pressure or anything! :) Thanks!
Liz, Reply
|
R1:
Dear Liz: You wouldn’t be going no where by trying to pressure
me!! :-)
Hone-finished travertine is acceptable. Polished travertine would
be acceptable only on the foyer, NOT the kitchen!
All that, of course, if you get enough intelligence on how to take
proper care of it. Maurizio, Expert Panelist |
| Q 7816:
I came across your Web page while searching
for an answer to "what to do with an interior slate floor".
We purchased a house with an add-on sunroom that had a carpet covering
a slate floor. After pulling up the carpet, the "finish"
on the slate was yellow and thick in certain areas, which I assume
was from either some prior sealer/finish or a glue of sorts to hold
down the carpet. My wife and I, upon the advice of a stone/slate restorer,
used a commercial stripper to lift the residue; and after a lot of
triceps strain, is now "clean". We intend to use it as a
sitting/reading/family room. My question is: How do we protect/finish
it? Also, there are 'splotches' of a light/aqua blue coloring in a
few of the slate tiles. A stone/slate cleaning specialist (that we
didn't use) mentioned that this was natural coloring. Is that true,
or does it signify some chemical discoloration from a past treatment/activity?
Thank you in advance for any feedback you can provide. Joe, Reply |
| R1:
Dear Joseph: Without actually seeing your slate, there’s no way
I can confirm or deny the conclusion of the stone/slate cleaning specialist.
As for the protection of your stone, if I were you I would consider
hiring a professional and go with their advice. Maurizio, Expert Panelist
|
| Q 7815:
I have just remodeled and put natural
stone as a back splash. What's the best way to seal the stone. Also-have
you heard of a product that is a silicone base they spray on stone
and granite? Supposedly it has a life time guarantee so you don't
have to keep resealing your granite and stone. Reply |
R1:
There’s no such an animal in the impregnating/sealing business
that can offer a life-time warranty, unless you believe in fairy tales!
Silicon resin is the last resin that you want to consider, because
it’s the one that lasts the least! Even the newest cutting-edge
technology impregnator/sealers - which are based on fluorochemicals
(like my outlandish MB-4) offer warranties that varies from 5 to 10
years. And they are much tougher than silicone, I can tell you that!!
MB-4 can be sprayed, too, but, like any other sealer for stone, none
of the stuff must be left on the stone surface. Maurizio, Expert Panelist |
| Q 7814:
I work with a company who fabricates
and installs granite tops. We have been having problems with long
sections that have sinkhole cutouts cracking when we lift them out
of our waterjet. Is there a way to lift them vertically without the
top cracking? Thanks, matt, Reply |
| R1:
Dear Matt: Many thanks for inquiring with me. There are several ways
you can improve your chances when lifting a slab. First off, you should
seriously consider to rod those narrow areas in front and back of
the sink cut-out. That should solve your problem to a remarkable degree
already. For the rest, it much depends on the kind of equipment you
have available for the lifting. Maurizio, Expert Panelist |
| Q 7813:
I love this website and have spent hours
and hours learning about granite. I have found very little information
on the type of granite we are considering for our kitchen counters.
It is called, "Yellow River" and comes from Brazil. What
can you tell me about this type of granite? Thanks in advance for
your help. Lori, Reply |
| R1:
Dear Lori: Like most other inquirers at this stage you seem only interested
in the color of the “granite” and/or its physical characteristics.
How about if I tell you that a certain “granite” is a good
choice and then you get a low-grade slab? In an industry that’s
virtually unregulated, how good and reputable the fabricator who’s
is going to process the stone you’ll end up choosing is far more
important than the stone itself. None of the horror stories that get
posted in this very site stem from the stone itself: they all stem
from the fabricator. That is why I seldom make final statements about
any one particular stone. There may be differences within the same
stone (and I’m not talking about looks, here!) from one bundle
of slabs and the next. Maurizio, Expert Panelist |
| Q 7812:
I can't find the link to your advice
piece - the guidelines for maintenance. I don't have a sidebar showing
up...could you provide me with the link, please? I was clearly foolish
to buy this honed black granite. My installer wants to seal it with
mineral oil, and I'd like to check with you before he does so. Thanks!
Elizabeth, Reply |
R1:
Dear Elisabeth: I sincerely hope that your fabricator did NOT apply
an impregnator/sealer to your countertop. Do NOT allow him to treat
your stone with mineral oil.
This is the copy & paste special answer I have on file about black
honed granite: HONED-FINISHED BLACK ABSOLUTE
There are indeed different opinions on the issue of sealing black
hone granite, but there is a unanimous consensus about the fact that
it presents maintenance issues. The problem with honed black granite
is that it is not, well … black any more! Most black stones are
but an optical illusion: they become black only when highly polished,
or when wet. (See the back of your slab to see the REAL color of your
stone!) As you take gloss off the stone surface (and honing does just
that) you lose depth of color and the stone turns gray; but when you
wet it ... here it is black again! As you spill oily liquids, or you
simply touch the stone surface with your fingers (perspiration), you're
going to have all sorts of dark surface stains that are a terrible
eyesore. Please notice that I said: SURFACE stains, not imbedded stains.
In fact, you can clean those stains off (though with lots of labor),
while if they were imbedded you would have to poultice them out. If
you apply an impregnator/sealer in the stone you will not solve your
problem one bit: in fact the sealer will only prevent liquids from
being absorbed by the stone (which in the case of black honed granite
is an unlikely event to begin with), not the staining of its surface.
Any solution? Well, yes: you have to give up the gray!
If you apply a good-quality stone color enhancer to your countertop
(such as our MB-6, which is also an impregnator/sealer). Maurizio,
Expert Panelist |
| Q 7811:
I recently had Tropical Brown granite
countertops installed by a local (very large) fabricator. They did
a great job on the installation, but I am concerned about all the
pits seen in the top. There are many pits, most the size of a pinhead,
but I could probably count 50 in a square foot of granite. There are
also some pits about half the size of a penny, but only a couple of
these. Having never had granite before I am wondering if I got "took"
on this? Is there something I can do to minimize these pits? Thanks,
Dave, Reply
|
| R1:
Dear David: With a few exceptions, all true geological granite and
most commercial granite have little pits all over their surface. Tropical
Brown is one of those stones that present most of them. From your
description the slab you have is well within industry standards. You
shouldn’t worry one bit about them: they do not present any structural
or sanitary issue. Maurizio, Expert Panelist |
| Q 7810:
I have enjoyed reading your column.Thankfully
I read your column before buying anything!!! Lots of good advice.
I am going to replace my formica counters with granite. I have white
cabinets, and was hoping to go with a stone that's not too dark.I
know from reading your column that many lighter colors are porous
and easily stain. What stones could you recommend that will be less
prone to problems???? I am thinking about madura gold,santa cecilia,giallo
ornamentale,new venetian gold and blue pearl..but would love to hear
your ideas. Thanks so much for your help!! Barbara Barry Rhode, Reply |
R1:
Dear Barbara: It doesn’t seem to me you’ve been reading
my answers hard enough!! :-)
Don’t worry about the type of “granite”: worry about
the man!
Like most other inquirers at this stage you seem only interested in
the color of the “granite” and/or its physical characteristics.
How about if I tell you that a certain “granite” is a good
choice and then you get a low-grade slab?
In an industry that’s virtually unregulated, how good and reputable
the fabricator who’s is going to process the stone you’ll
end up choosing is far more important than the stone itself. None
of the horror stories that get posted in this very site stem from
the stone itself: they all stem from the fabricator. That is why I
seldom make final statements about any one particular stone. There
may be differences within the same stone (and I’m not talking
about looks, here!) from one bundle of slabs and the next. The slabs
may have also been either “doctored” (which is bad), or
“resined” (which could be good, but only to a certain extent)
by the factory, which would make a big difference. Even more important,
what’s a good stone in the hands of some “Michelangelo”?!
And again: a reputable fabricator will only carry high-grade slabs,
not some “special!” Maurizio, Expert Panelist |
| Q 7809:
I Just purchased Brazilian Uba Tuba.
(which I love) I Had a spill on it I didn't notice. When I wiped it
up, it left a black area. Is there anything I can do ? Should this
stone be sealed ? If so, what do you recommend? Thanks, Mike, Reply |
| R1:
Dear Mike: Usually Ubatuba does not need to be sealed with an impregnator/sealer,
but some low-grade slabs leave something to be desired. At any rate,
now you have a stain. The first thing that you have to do is to figure
out what was it that you spillaed on your stone and caused the stain.
Maurizio, Expert Panelist |
Q 7808:
Hi, I found the following response
to a question about travertine on your site. I would also like to
know what it is I should know about my choice of travertine in my
home. I am planning to install it in my entryway and bathroom floor.
Does it matter if it is polished or honed? "The real question
is not as much about the different travertine, as it is WHERE in your
house you're going to install it, and with WHAT kind of finish (polished
or honed). Those are indeed quite important issues.
Valerie, Reply |
| R1:
Dear Valerie: Entryway and bathroom floor are a good bet for travertine.
There’s not much difference between polished and honed –
beside the way they look. Polished may require a bit more maintenance,
but the important thing is not the quantity of maintenance: it’s
the quality! In other words, knowing exactly what to do! Maurizio,
Expert Panelist |
| Q 7807:
Hi, we have tavertine in our foyer,
installers did a great job. it was sealed at that time. Problem is
some salad dressing was dripped on it amd spotted and wont come off
with soap and water. then the cat threw up on it and also spotted
it. How can I get these spots out, what products to I use or do I
have to get a professional to come out and charge me big bucks. please
help.......sharon, Reply |
| R1:
Dear Sharon: Which goes to prove that sealing polished travertine
(or any other polished marble for that marble) is a total waste of
time and money! All the “stains” you have on your floor
are marks of corrosions (etchings) made by various acidic substances
that became in contact with the surface of the stone, i.e.: salad
dressing, pet’s vomit and son on through a long list. You may
need the services of a bona fide stone restoration contractor, who
will have to hone and re-finish your tabletop. Maurizio, Expert Panelist
|
| Q 7806:
Hello I am considering purchasing a
new house (not yet built) granite counter tops comes with the package
in the kitchen can you give me an idea of the pros & cons. Is
there a large difference in cost between granite & synthetic stone?
Help, Fred, Reply |
R1:
Dear Fred: What do you expect me to say? In my opinion the real thing
is better than the manmade one and cost the same. On the other hand,
the material has nothing to do with the human factor – the fabricator
– which is by far the most important factor. What I mean by that
is no matter how good the material is, if it’s handled by some
“Michelangelo” it will turn out in a disaster. As a general
rule, I do NOT like the idea of having to get my countertop through
the builder: you wouldn’t be getting what you pay for, but you’d
rather be getting what the GC paid for! There exceptions to this rule,
but you do know what exceptions do, don’t you?!
If I were you, I would get out of the contract mas far as the countertop
is concerned, and then do the shopping on your own. It won’t
be easy, but with the right guidance you could be able to manage your
way in the mysterious jungle of an industry which is ruled by ignorance,
and come out on top! Don’t worry about the granite, the color,
etc. They never hurt anybody! Concern yourself with the fabricator!
All the horror stories coming in this very site never stem from the
stone itself! Maurizio, Expert Panelist |
| Q 7805:
I am renovating my kitchen and want
to put granite on the floor. Could you please advise me on how to
but the granite tiles for flooring and what material to use for sealing
the joints. Thanks, Gratian Fernandes, Reply |
| R1:
Dear Gratian: Butt-jointing natural stone tiles is a (huge) amateur
mistake. (There’s nothing that you could use to seal the joint
in a reliable way.) Do NOT do that, and do NOT let anyone talk you
into that! 1/16” grout gap is what you want and you also want
to make sure that the grout is pushed deep in between the tiles. Maurizio,
Expert Panelist |
Q 7804:
I'm thinking about replacing my tile
kitchen counter with either Blue Pearl or Violetta granite. The guy
at the warehouse told me that the Violetta is less porous and is cheaper
than the Blue Pearl. I would like to get a second opinion on which
one is less porous and not as easy to get stained? And if it did get
stained, which one is easier
to have the stain removed? Thanks for your help. Pauline, Reply |
R1:
Dear Pauline: It’s typically the opposite. However, how about
if I tell you that a certain “granite” is a beeter choice
and then you get a low-grade slab?
In an industry that’s virtually unregulated, how good and reputable
the fabricator who’s is going to process the stone you’ll
end up choosing is far more important than the stone itself. None
of the horror stories that get posted in this very site stem from
the stone itself: they all stem from the fabricator. That is why I
seldom make final statements about any one particular stone. There
may be differences within the same stone (and I’m not talking
about looks, here!) from one bundle of slabs and the next. The slabs
may have also been either “doctored” (which is bad), or
“resined” (which could be good, but only to a certain extent)
by the factory, which would make a big difference. Maurizio, Expert
Panelist |
| Q 7803: Thank
you for any help you can give. We have just had honed “Yellow
River” countertops installed at our house near Dallas. I am now
paranoid after reading some of your insights and am wondering if it
is really granite and if we should have it sealed. Thank you. Randy,
Reply
|
| R1:
Dear Randy: I have no idea what that stone could be. One thing is
for sure: it ain’t no geological granite! As for determining
if it needs to be sealed or not, leave a damp rag sitting on it for
5 minutes or so and then observe if the section of the countertop
on which the rag has been sitting has become darker. If so, you will
apply a good-quality stone impregnator/sealer, like my unbelievable
MB-4. If not, forget about it. Do not forget, however, about the daily
care of your top! Maurizio, Expert Panelist |
Q 7802:
We recently picked Black Galaxy for
counter tops and Kashmiri white for our floors. We have not yet used
a sealer on either one of them. One of the problems that I see as
of now is that if any liquid falls on the floor, there is immediately
a mark which disappears as it dries. Will the sealant prevent these
marks in case we spill any liquid? Which sealant should we use? What
is the procedure to apply the sealant?
Our contractor disappeared on us, so we have to handle this ourselves.
Any help is much appreciated. Also, our floor and counter are not
as shiny as we had expected. How can we fix this? Thank a lot for
any pointers, JD, Reply
|
| R1:
Dear JD: Yes a good-quality stone impregnator/sealer – like my
outlandish MB-4 – will prevent liquids from being absorbed by
the stone. You do not want to apply the same product on your BG countertop.
The way MB-4 is applied is explained on the back of the bottle. Remember:
it’s a below-surface sealer, and none of the stuff is supposed
to remain on the surface of the stone!
Kashmir is not a “big shiner”;
therefore I wouldn’t worry about it. BG instead should be a
highly polished stone. Keep in mind, however, that there are approximately
a dozen quarries in India producing BG blocks. The quarries are
all included within a limited region, but the differences between
the materials can be substantial, not to mention the possibility
of a low-grade slab. Clean your countertop thoroughly with acetone
two or three times, and then apply some MB-13. That is the most
that you will ever get from your particular slab. Maurizio, Expert
Panelist
|
| Q 7801:
I'm looking to install a limestone
floor in my kitchen. I'd be interested in taking a look at your guide
to residential stone installation. Specifically interested in identifying
whether it's feasible to lay limestone floor tiles butted together
directly without grout? Regards, Mike, Reply
|
R1:
Dear Mike: When you say: “limestone” you’re talking
about only the gods know how many different types of stone, though
still within the limestone group. As for me, when I hear the word
limestone I get goose-bumps! While most limestone installations end
up being successful, there are all too many case of failures (problems
with no solutions) for me to recommend any such material, anywhere
in the house, let alone a kitchen.
Butt-joint installation is a huge NO-NO, no matter what kind of stone
you’re dealing with. Maurizio, Expert Panelist |
