| Q
4242: We are used
to apply plastic paste (we call here "massa plástica").
There are many producers in Brazil and the price is very competitive.
You can still use grout for this kind of problem.. Att, Nov21.
Reply |
| Q
4241: We have just
had kitchen countertops made from Tropical Amazon granite installed.
The installer sealed the granite. What are the characteristics of
Tropical Amazon (is it really from the Amazon?) and what is the best
way to maintain it? Susan, Nov21.
Reply |
| Q
4240: I am searching for hand tools to build dry rock
walls. It is an art mastered by Irish masons who have also worked
and taught how to lay dry, limestone, rock walls in Central Kentucky.
Some of the tools include a hand held hammer used to chip the rock
at the exact correct place in order to secure a tight fit. There are
probably other tools used in this craft of which I am unaware. Can
you help me locate a supplier for such simple tools. They were used
in the 19th and early 20th Century. Nov21.
Reply
|
| R1:
Any masonry supply company, or good hardware
store should be able to help you out. Or get in touch with an outfit,
JVC, Expert Panelist |
| Q
4239: We are doing a fundraiser at our elementary school
in Southport, CT to raise money for a garden for our science curriculum.
We are looking for bricks for a walkway. Can you give me prices? Do
you do engraviing as well. John,
Nov21. Reply |
| Q
4238: I want to install a trowelled cement veneer counter
in my kitchen and I am having a problem finding a sealer ( that seals
and penetrates and therefore binds with the cement composition) that
I can use after I have used powder pigments to color the cement that
is a flat sheen level. It appears that this is not your area but considering
your background could you possible send me in the correct direction?
Thank you very much.Judy, Nov21.
Reply
|
| Q
4237: Hello, What
will happen to travertine if it is washed with full strength muriatic
acid? Jim, Nov21.
Reply
|
| R1:
Jim, Travertine is a calcitic based stone similar
to limestone and marble. Muriatic acid (hydrocloric acid) will react
with the calcium carbonate, eating away the stone. Why would you want
to do this? Just curious, JVC, Expert Panelist |
| Q
4236: I am would
like to know how companies decide how much they will charge for services
such as restoration, polishing and sealing. The reason that I am asking
this questions is, I recently had my downstairs area done, which is
all marble. They restored, polished and sealed. The area was measured,
the measurement was 40x49 in one area, 15X24 in one area, 11x5 in
one area and 4x3 in one area. They told me that they charged $1.84
per square foot. I was charged $2,450.00. I think this was too much,
even though, they did a very good job, because my marble was really
dull. What I would like to know if possible, is how they calculated
the measure plus the square foot to get the amount they will charge
you. I am not complaining, because as I stated, I was glad to get
my marble looking nice and shinny again, but as I stated, I believe
that I was over charged. I would like to know for further services.
Lee, Nov21.
Reply |
| R1:
Well Lee, It appears
to me that you actually got a bargin. The measured areas you listed
total up to nearly 2400 sq ft., and at $1.84 / sq ft. you should have
paid around $4400.00. If the footage is accurrate, you were charged
only a little over a dollar a foot. JVC, Expert Panelist |
Dear Lee: Two junky
illiterates can make passionate love and "make" a new human
body. It takes a doctor to take care of that new human body. Doctors,
if you think for a munute, are in the maintenance business, though,
generally, the word
maintenance brings to must people's minds the image of a minial activity
that belongs to the very bottom of the social ladder. Stone refinishing
is the very pinnacle of any activity related to stone. It does require
much more stone professionalism than selling and setting stone tiles
or fabricating a kitchen countertop. Unfortunately, since such
professionalism is not eaisly achievable and, therefore, found. there's
a lot of quacks out there, and, I am afraid, you've got one of them!
Let me explain myself better: If I had to do your job, restoring and
repolishing a very dull 2,387 square feet (that's your information)
I would have charged you $3.50 per square foot, for a total of $8,350.
I admit it
that I am more expensive than most (I'm making it my business to be!),
but the average rate for a legitimate restoration job of that size
is anywhere between $2 and $3 per square foot nation-wide. It'd take
at least 7 working days for a crew of two people. And that does not
include any sealing, which, by the way, is totally useless in the
case of polished marble. You've been charged something like a tiny
over $1.00 per square foot for the whole thing (I charge $1,25 for
sealing alone!!). Now either the contractor who performed the job
in your house was wearing a red suite, riding a reen-deer drawn sled,
and going OH-OH-OH, therefore gave away his or her skills by working
at a huge loos, or you've got a quack. You may like the way your floor
looks now, but, no matter how shiny it looks, polished it was certainly
not! If you've got Santa, you've got the deal of your life. If you
got a quack, you've got what you paid for. Either way, you'd better
stay quite, because you're just making a mockery out of yourself.
Ciao and good luck, Maurizio, Expert panelist |
| |
| |
| Q
4233: I have a
table top travetine(45x45). It's broken in half. I would like to know
if there is some kind of material I can use to glue it back together
. Thank you. Marie, Nov21.
Reply |
| Q
4232: My
inlaws want to install marble tile on the floor of their outdoor patio.
We'd like to know any pros or cons on using marble. Thank you. Stacey,
Nov21.
Reply |
| R1:
Dear Stacey: Believe you me, your in-laws do NOT want to do that!
As for the why, take a look at the way you can get in touch with me
at the top of this page, and see if it suits you. Ciao and good luck,
Maurizio, Expert Panelist |
| Q
4231: We just installed
beauiful new Bianco Romano granite counters in our remodeled (new)
kitchen. Please advise as to the best maintenance techniques, as I
would like to keep them as beautiful as they are the day they are
installed. I read the horror stories and don't want to be a statistic!
Thank you. Michelle,
Nov21. Reply |
| Q
4230:
We are building a home in indiana..we
want natural stones floors on the ground and first floor foyer..on
both it will extend to the outside as well.. will travertine work
?or should we be looking at quartzite or slate? Nenat,
Nov21. Reply |
| R1:
Dear Nenat: Take a look at the way you can contact
me at the top of this very page. I that suits you I'll be glad to
assist you for a small consultation fee. If you're interested at knowing
why I gave away advice for free for a year and half and now I charge,
you're welcome to read my announcement above. Ciao and good luck,
Maurizio, Expert Panelist |
| |
| Q
4228: Please email
me your thorough and in-depth maintenance guidelines for residential
stone installations. We have 4X4 tumbled marble that we want to install
as the counter in our guest bathroom. I am researching how and when
to seal and grout. I think I want the holes filled with grout and
then seal but I am not sure. Thanks, Kay, Nov21.
Reply |
| Q
4227: I would appreciate
your advise on maintenance of granite countertops. Cleaning, sealing,
and how often should they be resealed, Holmes, Nov21.
Reply |
| Q
4226:
After considering all types of counter
tops, I have decided to go with Sapphire Blue granite. Is this a good
choice for a kitchen? I was also told that the more steps used in
polishing the granite, the less often it needs to be sealed. A fabricator
said he uses a seven step process in polishing the granite while others
in the area only use a three step process. Does this make any difference?
Thanks for any help you can give me. Ron, Nov21.
Reply |
| R1:
Dear Ron: Your fabricator is a blatant liar.
First off, they do NOT polish the granite slabs, they buy them already
polished in one side. Not only they wouldn't know how, nor do they
own the right equipment (approximately $750,000.00 worth!!), but they
don't know what they're talking about, either. Nobody can polish "granite"
-- not matter which one -- in three steps. The porosity of the "granite"
is strictly related to its mineralogy, that is, what type of stone
it actually is, regardless of what the distributor invoice says. So
much for the "professional knowledge" of your fabricator.
Go somewhere else! I did write a very comprehensive articlea bout
shopping for a granite lkitchen countertop. It does carry a small
price, but it's worth every single penny! To get it, you have to follow
the procedure indicated at the top of this very page. Ciao and good
luck, Maurizio, Expert Panelist |
| Q
4225: We are having
imperial red granite installed in our kitchen as countertops. Is this
a good choice and how do we care for this granite? Thanks. Vicki,
Nov21.
Reply |
| Q
4223: We have mistakenly
left some super glue smear on top of a culture marble countertop.
Please advice ways in removing the smear without damaging the surface.
Nov20.
Reply |
| Q
4222: I am trying
to repair a concrete floor. I applied a thin layer of concrete (approx.
1/4") onto a very old concrete floor that was covered with asphalt
tile. The old tile was removed and my contractor scarified the old
floor to prepare the floor to accept the new layer of concrete. however,
some tile adhesive still remained and after about 6 months a large
area of my new floor came loose and I'm now trying to repair an area
of approx. 4'x6' to match the level of the surrounding floor. It would
be extremely difficult, if not impossible, for me to remove the remaining
tile adhesive residue and I'm hoping that there may be a sealer or
concrete additive that would allow me to patch this floor with good
adhesion. I would be most appreciative for any help you can offer.
Richard, Nov19.
Reply |
| Q
4221: Four years
ago we converted a 100year old farm steading into houses in the N.E.
Scotland. Every year since the occupants have complained about water
leaking in through the stone wall. After numerous visits from Roofers,
externally sealing with an oil based sealant, then with a silicone
sealant the leaks still persist. The wall has been constructed with
a mix of granite, sandstone, and other locally available stone. We
have now run out of ideas of how to resolve this problem. Kirstie,
Please help, Nov19.
Reply |
| R1:
As odd as it may seem, the source of your leak
could be from water backing up directly underneath the stone wall.
The path of least resistance can be very long. Good luck , Spa |
| R2:
I would consider removing and cleaning all prior
sealants off the wall, (not knowing exactly what you used this would
require an expert), and then applying a bentonite type cementious
coating, usually 2 to 3 coats required. I would follow this by installing
a bentonite "blanket" against the wall before backfilling.
Additionally, before backfilling I would make sure that I have consulted
a civil engineer for specifications on a excellent sub surface drain
and porous backfill material. Finally I would make sure that all finish
grades slope away from my structure at a minimum of 1/4" per
foot and that all roof downspouts are channeled away from my foundation.
Warm Regards, Edward |
| R3:
Ask the party to use
epoxy mix and apply so it will not leak any more, Juleomartia |
| R4:
Hi Kirstie, you did not
mention whether this is above Ground or a Basement wall. If it is
Basement than you may have to dig and install a 4” Drain with
1’ Crushed rock 6” below and 6” above and keep all
that below the Foundation parch the Foundation and use Rubber Mats
and seal the Joints. Remember the Drain Pipe has to empty into a Ditch
or dry Well If it is Above Ground and the Roof does not shield it
from the Weather, extending it into a covered Porch, you have to consider
that the water could seep in some distance from where it comes out.
In a Cement Block foundation you could use Food Coloring to find the
entrance. But in stone you may stain irreparably. If you seal an exterior
wall and it is subject to any movement (frost) the sealing is pointless.
Check where your Plumbing is located, it maybe the problems. Curd
|
| R5:
I think I know what your problem is.If the walls
are between 500mm-1000mm thick,I figure the problem is inadequate
ventilation,causing the dampness to linger in the house and thus turning
into droplets of water when they condense on the wall.installing an
exhaust fan in the house will help to regulate the trapped air and
painting the house with a rubber based solution should help. Preeti
|
| R6:
I would consider removing and cleaning all prior
sealants off the wall, (not knowing exactly what you used this would
require an expert), and then applying a bentonite type cementious
coating, usually 2 to 3 coats required. I would follow this by installing
a bentonite "blanket" against the wall before backfilling.
Additionally, before backfilling I would make sure that I have consulted
a civil engineer for specifications on a excellent sub surface drain
and porous backfill material. Finally I would make sure that all finish
grades slope away from my structure at a minimum of 1/4" per
foot and that all roof downspouts are channeled away from my foundation,
edward |
R7:
Hi Kirstie, Your problem is a common one (unfortunately).
Those buildings were probably built with lime mortar and were repaired
with just about every modern chemical and sealant in the book. Lime-built
buildings need to be repaired with lime, which will control moisture
by letting the walls "breathe" as they must. When sealants
are applied, along with cements, the walls trap moisture and can no
longer evaporate it away.
I teach a short 2-day school in Ireland for this problem which is
attended be many cottage owners such as yourself. Don't hesitate to
contact me for help. Mail me if you are interested Regards, John |
| R8:
Hi Kirsty, Water is obviously getting in somewhere
and in my experience waterproofers and surface sealants are much better
at keeping the water in after it's got there than keeping it out in
the first place.Self evident in your case. Only 100% effectiveness
in sealing the entire wall surface would be effective. Start at the
beginning, the stone does not allow the ingress of water, if the jointing
is in good order then you can rule out water coming through the walls.If
the water is at low level check to see if the ground outside is higher
than the floor. If it is you will always have a water problem, the
only proper solution here is to lower the ground next to the walls
or raise the floor.If it is at high level then I would suspect your
roof or possibly a gutter, soffit problem. Try following the water
to it's scorch it is amazing how a small leak in one area can travel
a great distance within the fabric of the building and appear somewhere
else. I would put the smart money on there being an definite leak
and a keen eye and a bit of detective work is sure to expose it. Bryan
UK |
| R9:
Try digging down to the
base of wall,then clean all the old mortar out of the joints or what
ever was used then. Then repoint the the joints with mortar[preferrably
a water repellant added to the masonry].Then parge the wall up to
ground level with same mix as used for pointing the joints.Then coat
1,2 times with foundation coating.This should be done all around the
foundation. Once finished rpound of drainage tile or pipe should be
installed so the water can be drained away from foundation. Please
inform me if this solves the problem or not, Bill |
| R10:
You might try Water Glass.
If you apply it and it has enough time to dry it will not resolublize,
thus sealing your stone. The other name for it is Sodium Silicate
42 degree Baume. Gordon Post |
| R11:
Perhaps a sheet membrane [like our Chloraloy]
could help solve the moisture problem. No doubt other things will
be needed, but a sheet membrane is stronger and generally provides
better waterproofing than liquid products. Richard |
| Q
4220: I need to
replace the ceramic tile (12 "tiles) in our kitchen and dining
area. (about 400 sq. ft). It is laid on concrete - in thinset. I want
to replace the current tile with a more durable type. The present
tile is not the same color all the way through and has several annoying
discolored chips as well as several cracked tiles. The house is about
5 years old. Concrete slab foundation. (as are most in the Florida
panhandle) How do I remove the current tiles and prepare the concrete
floor to accept a better quality tile? Probably an 18" porcelain
tile. I can find a lot of information on laying tile, but there seems
to be very little info on removal. Knitsler,
Nov19. Reply
|
| Q
4219: I have spent
the last couple of months creating a water feature (waterfall and
koi pond) in my garden. I used weathered dolomite, which has a very
interesting etched surface texture. In "fitting" the stones,
a fair amount of cement came in contact with the stone surface, and
I used a weak solution of HCl (20:1 with water) to remove the cement.
Unfortunately, the acid solution also "cleaned" the outer,
brown surface of the dolomite, revealing the clean grey stone below.
Is there any way to restore the brown, natural weathered color? Is
this color the result of oxidation? Can the stone be stained? Greg,
Nov19.
Reply
|
| R1:
You could likely stain it with a soluble iron
compound that will convert to the oxide when put on the stone. Gordon
|
| R2:
Using an acid on stone
is similar to having it on your hands. You have to restore the PH
Balance. You can use any alkali or PH restorer, the natural color
should come back. Best of luck! |
| R3:
Regarding restoring to brown color of dolomite
as it contanis iron in water the color has changed. only to repolish
or cut and remove the area of the decolored areae size if original
color to come ok, but if more porosity is there only new stone replacements
as oxidiation has effected the surface. For all other things you can
deal and spend time. Thanking you, Juleomartia |
| R4:
Do not try to stain the stone. You 'll
never be able to get the same color as the original. Allow a fair
amount of time and the stone will weather evenly. Evan |
| R5:
Paint the stone with
natural yoghurt, David |
| R6:
Dear Greg: No. Only time
will do it again. Ciao and good luck, Maurizio, Expert Panelist |
| Q
4218: I have a
large crack and a 2 inch chip on an exterior granite wall. I was wondering
if you had any ideas how I can repair, Marina,
Nov19. Reply
|
| R1:
Dear Marina: Yes I do:
hire a professional stone refinisher! Ciao and good luck, Maurizio,
Expert Panelist |
| Q
4217: I
would like to set up a fabrication shop in approx. 3000 to 5000 square
feet of enclosed area. I would like to have a minimum amount of machinery.
I will have an overhead crane system to handle moving the materials
from the truck to the saw and in the shop. Most of the fabrication
will be completed by hand in the shop. I would like to complete 2
to 3 kitchens per week. I would like to know how to "set up"
the shop for the most productive processing of materials. I would
like to spend as little as possible to get started with future machinery
purchases as soon as necessary. Please provide any help in this matter.
Gary,
Nov19. Reply
|
R1:
Before to quote the machine that you need i have
to know wich production you want to do: top for Kitchens; table, sculpure,vaeses
or workshop of tiles and slabs of stone?
wich kind of materials you want cut and work: marble or granite? Best
regards, Maurizio Giuntoni |
| R2:
Smoke and mirrors by granite wannabes. Manufactured
is better. Selling by the Square Foot with everything while every
required element is extra. Selling less than the standard (in our
area) is 3cm. I could go on and on, Linda |
| R3:
Please send a general email to findstone for
this type of consultation. We can provide you with information however
it is a fee based request. Regards, Steven |
| R4:
Dear sir, please look at our opportunity before
you decide anything, I can even send you a business plan. We are a
manufacturer in Italy and Brazil with back up slabs here in the USA.
we supply the equipment, and the know how. Its a business opportunity
that's rare, with a support program with online shipping and ready
made accounts. Lowes and Depot and so on please contact me. Robbie
|
| R5:
I would meet with every cabinet maker and interior designer in your
area and get on their rolodex. I would also join the local builder's
exchange to see what commercial countertops might be needed. I would
also befriend an ace machinist- give him stone stuff and keep him
around to help with machinery maintenance. You also want to check
out the local zoning ordinances- you might have to have certain drainage
strategies in place. Rotsa |
| R6:
I have enough experience in layout of factories.
Wher are you located? I believe that in order to give a good suggestion
we have to see the place. Please write back.Marco |
| R7:
We are a supplier of
marble, granite, travertine slabs, and also the bridge saw machine.
We will be happy to help you start your shop. Gonca |
| Q
4216: I am having
my kitchen remodeled and today my decorator suggested that I might
want to have granite kitchen counter tops instead of corian (or something
similar). Can you advise on the pros and cons and what type of upkeep
is required for granite? Thanks for your help. Debbie, Nov19.
Reply
|
| R1:
Dear Debbie, If you choose
wisely and get a quality granite the natural product is clearly superior
to Corian and with zero maintenance (Dr. Hans) |
R2:
Dear Debby: It all depends from the "granite".
Most "granites" are very enjoyable and indeed a much better
choice over plastic (Corian and such), but certein other "granites"
can turn out to be a maintenance nightmare, as you can gather by reading
some of this site's previous posts. I can promise you that your interior
decorator is not qualified to tell you whihc one "granite"
is good an which one is not. And, most ot the times, alas, neither
are the fabricators. I wrote a very interesting article on "How
to Shop for a Kitchen Countertop" that will give you all the
intelligence you need to venture yourself with confidence in the stone
industry jungle! It does carry a small price tag, but is worth every
penny of it and then some! Gimme a holler at: info@findstone.com.
You'll be glad you did! You can also ask me how to get my comprehensive
maintenance guidelines on residential stone installations. Remember,
when it comes to natural stone,
maintenance is an all too important yet neglected subject that should
begin before you even select it, as you can tell from several of this
very site's postings! Don't become another statistic! Ciao and good
luck, Maurizio, Expert Panelist |
| Q
4215: I have a
1960's era home in Houston, Texas with terrazzo tile in the bathrooms
(on the walls of the shower and the floors). My question is "How
do you clean and restore this type of tile? The surfaces of the shower,
in particular, appear dull and do not have any sheen. I have cleaned
the showers with a tile cleaner and have repaired the grout. I am
looking for an appropriate sealer to use on the terrazzo that will
bring back a shine to the surface on the stone. Would appreciate any
information you could provide. Thanks. Chester, Nov19.
Reply |
|
R1: Dear
Chester: Your only option is to hire the services of a reputable
stone restorarion contractor. No product in a bottle couldo solve
your problem! Your terrazzo will need to be re-ground and refinished.
Now, be very, VERY cautious and do NOT take chances. Unfortunately
there are lots of quacks out there! I did write a very comprehensive
article title “How to Shop for a bona fide stone restoration
contractor”. It does carry a small price tag, but is worth
every penny of it and then some! Gimme a holler at: info@findstone.com.
You’ll be glad you did! You can also ask me how to get my
comprehensive maintenance guidelines on residential stone installations.
Remember, when it comes to natural stone, maintenance is an all
too important yet neglected subject that should begin before you
even select it, as you can tell from several of this very site’s
postings! Don’t become another statistic! Ciao and good luck,
Maurizio, Expert Panelist
|
| Q
4214: Thank you
for a GREAT site. We are considering placing Imperial Brown 12x12
"granite" tiles on our countertops and island in our new
home. It will be sealed by the installer. It appears to have a low
absorbtion rate. I have 4 young children who, despite being good kids,
still spill their food and drinks. Also, my wife spends a moderate
amount of time cooking in the kitchen (rolling dough, as well as griddle
grease spatters, etc.). We are committed to regular maintinance of
the stone, however I fear whether or not "granite" is a
wise choice for a family kitchen. My sale's associate assures me this
will work, but I don't know if she is completly unbiased because #1
"granite" will be more profitable for her than other choices
and #2 she has no children and doesn't realize that part of my stone
maintinance program will include the labor intensive "maintinance"
of my children's kitchen habits. Will this "granite" choice
be forgiving for a young family or will it quickly stain and become
an esthetic nightmare? Nathan, Nov19.
Reply |
R1:
There is an old expression that goes "You
can't get blood from a stone". Many don't realize that this is
a literal expression. If you cut your finger and bleed on a natural
stone surface, you will be a long time getting the stain out. Stone
is porous and will absorb liquids. In my opinion, next to blood, oil
and grease are the next worse stains to get out.
A "sealer" is needed to protect the stone from stains. However,
the protection lasts only as long as the sealer lasts. It is a just
matter of time and the sealer, if not renewed when needed will wear
off and the stone will be subject to staining. I would consider a
man made substitute for your needs. Jim |
| R2:
I have installed dark grantite in my kitchen
and for the last 2 years I have no complaints. My household consists
of more than 5 people and the persons working in the kitchen are my
servants who have no idea of "careful" handling of the countertop.
At any cost you should try to keep the shade of the granite (if you
want to go for it) dark because oil does leave stains which will not
come off. Otherwise you could even make a bondfire on the coutertop
without much damage to the stone. Consider the oil issue otherwise
I can only tell you that the money is wisely invested. Nothing better
than granite. Regards, Hedi |
| R3:
Nathan, You really should
not worry about the staining of your stone tops. On a hardness scale
of 1 to 10 (10 being a diamond), granite usually has a hardness of
7 and an extremely low absorption rate. With that in mind, that does
not necessarily mean that it cannot be stained. Oils and some acidic
elements could stain the granite if it is allowed to sit on it for
extended periods of time. Therein, it should be worth mentioning that
sealing the granite at lest once every two to three years with an
impregnating sealer would be worthwhile. Plus, just being conscious
of spills and cleaning regularly will ensure that your material retains
its original appearance for many years to come. Rowan |
| R4:
Granite is an excellent
choice for countertops. In fact - even hot pots can be placed directly
on to the granite surface.I would recommend the use of an epoxy grout
though rather than going with cementitious. The granite must be sealed
though - this is important!! I would recommend a premium sealer for
food preparation areas. Pamas |
R5:
Have you considered a
slate counter top? I have one in my kitchen for one year now. I do
average amount of cooking and my live-in is not careful with use on
the counter. I have grandchildren too. I have not "pampered the
surface" and it looks great. Heat and acids do not affect this
stone. I oil it with mineral oil about once a month "just cause
I love it" and use a cutting board when preparing food that need
chopping. I use the surface for rolling dough (pies or bread) and
it doesn't stick.
I have scratched it once and all I did to "fix" it was oil
it and the scratch disappeared. coffee or tea or wine or grease spatters
do not stain this surface. DEBRA |
| R6:
You may want to consider
a one-piece Counter Top instead of Tile, Granite I pretty much Maintenance
free and last forever with eternal sex appeal, there are some exceptions
but porosity is not a problem in most Granite, you should be able
to find this on ASTM Chart. (Ask your Supplier) Oils will get absorbed,
but there are products to remove them. Rolling dough involves Lard
and it probably will stain. Oil and Grease Stain will appear darker
the original Color. See if you can get a scrap piece and test. Curd
|
| R6:
The particular stone itself may not need to be
sealed at all. Test the polished surface with oil and lemon juice
to see if they are absorbed within a 30 minute time period. I think,
based upon your description granite tiles may not be the best solution
for you. The 12x12 piecesare fine but the grout lines are another
story. The dough and other spills would adhere and absorb into the
grout. You are better off with a solid surface counter like granite
slabs and a marble area for dough. Regards, Steven
|
| R7:
Granite is your best choice for Kitchen tops!
It is an investment fo a lifetime. If you dont use it now.. you will
use it later .. might as well start right! |
| R8:
It'll NEVER be a nightmare. Once granite, always
granite. Just make sure you get the correct one as even granite is
porous to a certain extend, but can be sealed,- get advice as to how
and what to seal with. Never install marble. Thomas |
| R1:
Dear Nathan: "Granite" (the right one that is) is indeed
the best choice that money can buy. However, I try to avoid commenting
about any one particular stone. There may be differences within the
same stone (and I'm not talking about looks only) from one buldle
of slabs and the next. Further, if the slabs have been resined by
the factory, it makes a whole world of difference! (The same principlesw
apply to tiles.) I wrote a very interesting article on "How to
Shop for a Kitchen Countertop" that will give you all the intelligence
you need to venture yourself with confidence in the stone industry
jungle! It does carry a small price tag, but is worth every penny
of it and then some! Gimme a holler at: info@findstone.com.
You'll be glad you did! You can also ask me how to get my comprehensive
maintenance guidelines on residential stone installations. Remember,
when it comes to natural stone, maintenance is an all too important
yet neglected subject that should begin before you even select it,
as you can tell from several of this very site's postings! Don't become
another statistic! Ciao and good luck, Maurizio, Expert Panelist |
| Q
4213: We are interested
to know if we can find a site where physical and chemical properties
of sand stone ,slate and quartzites are available. Virendra, Nov19.
Reply
|
| R1:
Dear
Virendra, It is not difficult to get this information from a number
of places but for what reason do you want these physical and chemical
properties. In order to make use of them you need to understand the
different types of stone and then their individual characteristics.
There is no point in getting this information if you don't know what
to do with it. Broad comparisons have little validity. (Dr. Hans) |
| Q
4212: HAVE OLD
SLATE ENTRANCE FOYER WITH CHIPS, UNLEVEL PIECES (SOME PIECES A LITTLE
HIGHER THAN PIECE IT BUTTS UP TO, ONE PIECE HAS BUBBLES. THOUGHT ABOUT
A GRINDER SOLVING A LOT OF MY PROBLEMS, AND FOUND YOUR ADVICE COLUMN
ON I-NET. YOU MENTIONED USING A GRiNDER TO REHONE. BEFORE I ATTEMPT
TO RESURRECT THIS FLOORING, TELL ME A LITTLE OF WHAT I CAN & CANNOT
DO, AND HOW TO BEGIN. BASICALLY IN GOOD SHAPE, BUT NEEDS SOME "TIDYING
UP". I THINK I CAN DO IT. THE PIECE WITH BUBBLES IN IT (WHY THEY
PUT IT DOWN, I DON'T KNOW). CAN I USE THE GRINDER TO MAKE THE PIECE
FLUSH (I REALIZE I WILL HAVE RINGS, BUT LIKE THE RUSTIC LOOK). SOME
FLAKING, BUT IT LETS ME SEE THAT LOT OF E DISCOLORATION IS SURFACE
ONLY, CAN I SAND DOWN TO THE "GOOD STUFF? CAN'T WAIT TO HEAR
BACK. THANKS, Sylvia, Nov19.
Reply
|
| R1:
Dear Sylsvia: What on earth are you talking about?
First off, if it's natural cleft slate you just can't grind it. Second,
assuming that's not cleft, how do you plan to go about it? Doing it
yourself? With what? Besides the extremely high skill level nevessary,
they don't even rent equipment like that! Ciao and good luck, Maurizio,
Expert Panelist |
| Q
4211: We have been
getting quotes for laying 12 x 12 marble tiles in our house (new construction).
The subfloor is 2" lightweight concrete with radiant heating;
the house is woodframe. One of the tilesetters is strongly advising
using antifracture membrane, while the others say it is an option
but not required. How important is this to prevent tile cracks? San,
Nov19. Reply
|
| R1:
Dear San: Go with the contractor who advise to
use the membrane. Now, remember, it's never too early to think about
the proper maintenance of your stone. It's a subject that's all too
often neglected, and, as you can tell by reading many of this sites
posting, you're not likely to get good information about it from your
dealer or installer. Don't become another statistic! You can get my
maintenance guidelines for residential stone installations by giving
me a holler at: info@findstone.com.com.
They do carry a small price tag, but are worth every single penny
and then some! They represent one-of-a-kind document that you won't
find anywhere else, I promise! Ciao and good luck, Maurizio, Expert
Panelist |
| Q
4210: We are debating if we should
have a newly installed slate floor sealed or not. Our builder says
it is not necessary but he will seal it if we want him to. The slate
is gauged and we are happy with the color and grout. The company that
sold the slate recommends sealing it. We do not have children and
this would not be a high traffic area. Also is there a recommended
curing period after installation/grouting before you should seal?
Please advise. Curtin , Nov19.
Reply |
| R1:
Dear sirs, Please refer your effort to seek
advice on a flooring and polishing matter.If you do not want spend
the money your floor will still give a decent look.you just have to
keep cleening it at regular intervals. Regards, Pradeep
|
| R2:
Sealer is a MUST! Use a Silicone Impregnator...
it is th ebest and will not show .. or change the color and look.
Follow instructions on the packing, Ravi |
| R3:
First question is where did the slate come from.
geology is different in different parts of the world and each slate
has different properties. Is the slate in a high traffic area, i.e.
entryway, or shower stall? Is there a lot of moisture that could affect
the stone's performance? We usually recommend for interior applications
that the slate be sealed once with a water based sealer at time of
installation prior to grouting just to protect the stone from the
grout clinging to the surface. After that, nothing more needs to be
done. Our slate is a very dense high quality slate. The same statement
cannot be made from all slates. You need to check the origin of the
product to make sure or ask the quarrier for technical test results
i.e. water absorption rates. etc. Hope this helps. DEBRA
|
| R4:
All slate should be sealed whether indoors or
outdoors. There are lots of choices of sealers - ensure that you pick
a reputable company. Remember that you can achieve different looks
with the sealers - everything from natural thru low sheen to high
sheen and darkening. Pick the sealer that will give you the look you
are after. With a breathable sealer you can seal 48 hours after installation
is complete. Pamas |
| R5:
Dear Curtin: First off
what kind of sealer are we talking about? An impregnator/sealer for
stone, or a topical hard-shell sealer? If it's an impregnator/sealer
(below surface, that is; which is applied to prevent staining), then
it all depends from the slates. Some slates don't require it, some
others do and very much so. If it's a hard-shell topical sealer, then
it's only a quastion of looks. It will protect the stone from surface
scratching, bit the maintenance of the sealer itself will turn out
to be a problem. Ciao and good luck, Maurizio, Expert Panelist |
| Q
4209: How do I
remove the oil stains on my granit cook top station? Yes I called
the instaler last year when the area was small. I'm still holding
my breath. Nov19.
Reply |
| Q
4208: We are in
the process of re-doing our kitchen. We chose Shivakashi granite for
our counter top. We have already put a deposit on the granite, and
are waiting for the cabinets to be installed so that the granite company
can come an measure and make a templet. This is the first time I have
seen your web site, and I find it wonderful. I read a comment someone
made regarding their Shivakashi, and that they were having a hard
time sealing it, and had thought of changing to another counter top.
If I understood correctly you thought that was wise. Can you please
give me some information, and comments regarding my choice of Shivakashi
before I have it installed. If that is not the correct choice for
a kitchen, I would like to know now. Thanks Nora, Nov19.
Reply
|
| R1:
Dear Nora: Make sure that the slabs of Shivakashi
your fabricator carries have been "resined" by the factory.
If they're not, get out of your contract fast enough to leave skid
marks on the ground!! You do NOT want that stuff in your kitchen.
I'm not kidding, I do mean it. I wrote a very interesting article
on "How to Shop for a Kitchen Countertop" that will give
you all the intelligence you need to venture yourself with confidence
in the stone industry jungle! It does carry a small price tag, but
is worth every penny of it and then some! Gimme a holler at: info@findstone.com.
You'll be glad you did! You can also ask me how to get my comprehensive
maintenance guidelines on residential stone installations. Remember,
when it comes to natural stone, maintenance is an all too important
yet neglected subject that should begin before you even select it,
as you can tell from several of this very site's postings! Don't become
another statistic! Ciao and good luck, Maurizio, Expert Panelist |
| Q
4205: Thanks for
your site. I just wish I had found it prior to installing my granite.
I just had "Blue Eyes" granite countertops installed yesterday.
By the evening large grapefruit sized dark spots began to show up
which I believe is the glue coming through the granite. The installer
says this is normal and will dissipate within a week. The same installer
put the same granite on our island a month ago, but it did not have
this problem at all. Is "Blue Eyes" an actual granite or
some other type of stone and is it very porous and easily stained?
It is a gray with some taupe and some blue specks that shine in the
light. Also, is it normal to have spotting after installation? I haven't
heard or read anything indicating such. Thanks, Debbie, Nov15.
Reply
|
R1:
Kitchen tops:- granite
Bathrooms: marble + granite
Floors: entrance halls - marble;- throughout the house, depends on
your colorscheme.
Outside: granite Wall cladding: granite and certain other natural
stones depending on climatic region. Thomas |
| R2:
Dear Debbie: I hope I'm
wrong, but I'm afraid that you contractor is a bit too optimist about
the disappearance of those stains. Anyway, wait and see. Should you
be interested, you can get my maintenance guidelines for residential
stone installations by giving me a holler at: info@findstone.com.com.
They do carry a small price tag, but are worth every single penny
and then some! They represent one-of-a-kind document that you won't
find anywhere else, I promise! Ciao and good luck, Maurizio, Expert
Panelist |
| Q
4204: I plan on
installing Mexican Honed Filled Travertine through most of my house
including the high traffic areas, kitchen and bathrooms. I have a
swimming pool and 2 labrador retreivers and was advised to NOT seal
the floors. Based on everything I have read on this site, I understand
there will be some wear and tear because it is a natural stone. I'm
fine with that. However, if my dogs come in the house wet and lay
on the stone will it damage it? Can their nails on their paws easily
scratch the stone? Any help you can offer would be greatly appreciated.
Thank you. Jared,
Nov15. Reply |
R1:
Dear Jared: I can see
that you're in the right state of mind for natural stone! I would
seal it in the kitchen and where the dogs usually lay when wet. Other
than that, I wouldn't bother. I'm just wondering who's the person
who told you not to seal your travertine. He or she is a stand out,
all right and I love him or her already!! Yes you big dogs' nails
will scratch the stone surface, but they won't be deep scratches and
will be barely noticeable. Don't be concerned about it (it's part
of the normal "change" due to wear and tear), and don't
even think for a minute to get rid of your dogs!!
Should you be interested, you can get my maintenance guidelines for
residential stone installations by giving me a holler at: info@findstone.com.com.
They do carry a small price tag, but are worth every single penny
and then some! They represent one-of-a-kind document that you won't
find anywhere else, I promise! Ciao and good luck, Maurizio, Expert
Panelist |
| Q
4203: I visited
your site and would like to ask your advice in choosing a type of
granite for my kitchen counters. I need something durable(my husband
is not the neatest person, but I love him) and something that is not
terribly high maint. We were at a granite store today in seattle and
liked the looks of two types. What are the differences if any between
agate and santa cecilia ark...besides the obvious color difference.
Thanks for your help jennifer, Nov15.
Reply |
| R1:
Dear Jennifer: So, your
husband's a slob, huh! So am I (if you don't believe me, ask my wife!)
:-) I always avoid commenting about any one particular stone. There
may be differences within the same stone (and I'm not talking about
looks only) from one buldle of slabs and the next. Further, if the
slabs have been resined by the factory, it makes a whole world of
difference! I wrote a very interesting article on "How to Shop
for a Kitchen Countertop" that will give you all the intelligence
you need to venture yourself with confidence in the stone industry
jungle! It does carry a small price tag, but is worth every penny
of it and then some! Gimme a holler at: info@findstone.com.
You'll be glad you did! You can also ask me how to get my comprehensive
maintenance guidelines on residential stone installations. Remember,
when it comes to natural stone, maintenance is an all too important
yet neglected subject that should begin before you even select it,
as you can tell from several of this very site's postings! Don't become
another statistic! Ciao and good luck, Maurizio, Expert Panelist |
| Q
4202: I am trying
to find a marble called 'Venetian Green' what country does this come
from (Middle East I believe) and what is the generic name?
Jim,
Nov15. Reply |
Q
4201:
We are building a new home, and two
weeks ago The Stone Source installed the granite countertops in our
kitchen, a pattern called Golden Leaf. I am heartsick to see it is
covered with randomly spaced chocolate colored splotches, solid in
color, no flecks at all, which they said are "birthing marks,"
and if we wanted a more perfect granite we would have to "talk
to God." There are about 30 on just the island alone. Very noticeable.
I have toured show houses in four states over the past ten years,
and have never seen splotches on the granite. Also, the longest piece
- about 15 feet - is seamed in the middle with the granite on the
left appearing at least two shades darker - although the owner of
the business swears all the granite came from the same slab. Is this
possible?
Your web site makes for very interesting reading, and I trust you
will respond to my inquiry. Thank you. Mary, Nov15.
Reply |
R1:
Dear
Mary: Your're right, there are seldom sploches in granite. But then
again, you're talking about "Golden Leaf". What has that
stone got to see with granite, besides being called so on the invoices
of the distributors? If you don't like the sploches you shouldn't
have to talk to God. More down-to-earthly, you should have simply
chosen a stone without them. Of course, I can't comment about the
difference in color between the two slabs used to make your island.
Besides, what would you expect me to say about it? If it's possible?
Yes, it is. It's up to the fabricator to try finding slabs that match
as much as possible. Sorry to see that we have an unhappy camper,
here, but without knowing all
the extent and particulars of the conversations between the parties,
I don't feel like just blaming the fabricator. Should you be interested,
you can get my maintenance guidelines for residential stone installations
by giving me a holler at: info@findstone.com.com. They do carry a
small price tag, but are worth every single penny and then some! They
represent one-of-a-kind document that you won't find anywhere else,
I promise! Ciao and good luck, Maurizio, Expert Panelist |
| |
| Q
4199: I was at
a clients house, called in to try to match the piece the painter broke
off the corner, and in the samples I brought there was a Galaxy Glitter
that was the exact coloring, but I need LOTS of veins no patches.
Can you find this material or just the name for me? Candy, Nov14.
Reply
|
| Q
4198:
I OWN AND OPERATE A SMALL RETAILCEMETERY
MARKER BUSINESS AND WOULD LIKE TO EXPAND INTO DOING MY OWN CEMETERY
DATING AND SIMPLE LETTERING. I WOULD LIKE TO KNOW IF THERE IS ANY
MANUELS OR VIDEOS AVAILABLE TO HELP ME LEARN THAT PORTION OF THE GRANITE
TRADE, Tim,
Nov14. Reply |
| Q
4197: Please provide
me with the physical and chemical properties for the egyptian stone,
Ihab,
Nov14. Reply |
| R1:
Dear Ihab, "Egyptian stone" is very
common term. It can be alabaster, granite, limestone, basalt and others.
Each of them has different characteristics. Daniel, Slovakia, Expert
Panelist., Expert Panelist |
| Q
4196: Thanks for
all the great information on your website. I would like to put granite
countertops in my kitchen. My question is, is one solid piece of granite
better, or are 12" x 12" granite tiles a better way to go?
I was thinking if I ever got a bad stain, chip, or something happened,
then it would be better to have the tile because I could remove one
tile if I had to. With a solid piece of countertop, I would be stuck
if I couldn't get the stain out. What are your thoughts on this? Would
it be easy to remove one bad granite tile? How would I finish the
edges on granite tile? Would grout be a problem? Sealing? Also, any
tips or things to look out for with 12" x 12 " tiles? I
really know nothing about installation. (also, if you know a great
place in Massachusetts to buy materials, let me know) Thank You for
any information. Nov14.
Reply |
| Q
4195: I am considering
black galaxy granite for my kitchen counter tops, is this good or
not so good? Thanks, Sandra, Nov14.
Reply |
R1:
Dear Sandra: It's good
enough for my own busy Italian kitchen (!), but I always avoid commenting
about any one particular stone. There may be differences within the
same stone (and I'm not talking about looks only) from one buldle
of slabs and the next. Further, if the slabs have been resined by
the factory, it makes a whole world of difference! I wrote a very
interesting article on "How to Shop for a Kitchen Countertop"
that will give you all the intelligence you need to venture yourself
with
confidence in the stone industry jungle! It does carry a small price
tag, but is worth every penny of it and then some! Gimme a holler
at: info@findstone.com. You'll
be glad you did! You can also ask me how to get my comprehensive maintenance
guidelines on residential stone installations. Remember, when it comes
to natural stone, maintenance is an all too important yet neglected
subject that should begin before you even select it, as you can tell
from several of this very site's postings! Don't become another statistic!
Ciao and good luck, Maurizio, Expert Panelist |
| Q
4194: Italian Madura
Gold granite. Is this suitable for a kitchen counter? Thanks.
Sally, Nov14. Reply |
| R1:
Dear Sally: I always avoid commenting about any
one particular stone. There may be differences within the same stone
(and I'm not talking about looks only) from one buldle of slabs and
the next. Further, if the slabs have been resined by the factory,
it makes a whole world of difference! I wrote a very interesting article
on "How to Shop for a Kitchen Countertop" that will give
you all the intelligence you need to venture yourself with confidence
in the stone industry jungle! It does carry a small price tag, but
is worth every penny of it and then some! Gimme a holler at: info@findstone.com.
You'll be glad you did! You can also ask me how to get my comprehensive
maintenance guidelines on residential stone installations. Remember,
when it comes to natural stone, maintenance is an all too important
yet neglected subject that should begin before you even select it,
as you can tell from several of this very site's postings! Don't become
another statistic! Ciao and good luck, Maurizio, Expert Panelist |
|
My husband and I walked through the Marble Center in Salem twice.
The first time we chose a verde from Australia which it turned out,
they didn't have enough of and the price was skyrocketing. The second
time we went back we walked around and saw the Madura Gold that had
just come in, still on the forklift. We liked it and bought it. No
research. We thought all granite was great. Then I was worried about
matching paint to it, got on the internet to print off the color,
saw your site, started reading about granite and reallized for the
first time, we could potentially have a problem, because all granite
is not suitable for kitchens. I did some reading on Madura Gold and
learned that there is some from India, Brazil, but I didn't see anything
about Italian. So my inquiry to you. Your site is the most interesting
and most informative of all I looked at - but like I say, I was just
looking to print out a color sample, so my search was not so intensive
as it turns out I might have done earlier with a little bit of awareness.
So thanks for your help. What do you think about Italian Madura Gold
for a kitchen counter?
|
| Q
4193: I'm just
writing to request your maintenance guidelines for residential stone
installations. I'm thinking about a kitchen counter using some kind
of granite tile. So far, it looks like the blue pearl might be my
best choice with respect to maintenance and durability. Are there
any stones which are intrinsically comparable to blue pearl but a
little lighter in color? Robert, Nov14.
Reply |
| Q
4192: I have found
some travertine noce tiles in a 2x2 inch size. We would like these
installed on an island backsplash (about 20 feet in length and 8 1/2
inch in height). We are also going to place them on the counter backs
of other areas in the kitchen, such as behind the cooktop. What kind
of adhesive should be used (ceramic mastic or marble mastic) I might
install these myself. Should the grout be installed using a grout
bag to prevent filling of the open pores. Is there any thing that
should be done after all is installed, such as stone enhancers ect.
As usual the salespeople don't seem to really know much about the
stone tiles they sell, they seem to lump them in the same catagory
as ceramic tile. We would like them to look as natural as possible.
Thanks, Don, Nov14.
Reply |
R1:
Dear Don: A backsplash
on an island?? That's a first, all right! I just can't figure out
where you're going to hang it!! From the ceiling, maybe ... :-) Amazing,
ain't it, that the salespeople don't seem to know much about the stone
they sell. Well, I've got news for you: strike the world "seem"
and you'll have a more accurate picture!
1. Use a product called "Stone Setting Adhesive" by the
Custom Builders company, available at the HD. I love that stuff!
2. You do want to grout after installation, because you DO want those
holes filled!
3. A color enhancer should produce some result with noce travertine
(other lighter colors won't be effected). Should you be interested,
you can get my maintenance guidelines for residential stone installations
by giving me a holler at: info@findstone.com.com.
They do carry a small price tag, but are worth every single penny
and then some! They represent one-of-a-kind document that you won't
find anywhere else, I promise! Ciao and good luck, Maurizio, Expert
Panelist |
| Q
4191: I have black
granite countertops in my kitchen. This is a new construction home
and I have no idea what type of granite it is (we are not on good
terms with the developer due to other problems). We just noticed 2
rings left presumably by bowls that may have been wet (we are the
offenders as this just happened within this past week). Is there an
easy fix to this? I don't know anything about sealing or anything
else. Is there something I can do to remove these stains as a layperson
not knowing anything?? Also, we have marble floors and countertops
in the bathroom. A wet paper cup was left on the marble top overnight
(by my mom who was visiting) and there is a dull circle left there
now. Is there a way to shine it so that it looks like the rest? Thanks
for your help!! Patti, Nov14.
Reply |
| R1:
Dear Patty: I know exactly what happened to your
black granite countertop and to your marble vanity top, and what you
can do to rectify the problems without hiring a pro. You can find
such solutions in many of my past answers, but if you don't want to
spend much time seeking them, you're welcome to gimme a holler at:
info@findstone.com.com.
Ciao and good luck, Maurizio, Expert Panelist |
| Q
4190: We have cultured
marble sinks, tubs, shower stalls and many are now very scratchy and
worn. Is there a way to restore these? Austin, Nov14.
Reply |
| R1:
Dear Austin: In this site we only deal with natural
stone. Just because they used the world "marble" when they
christned that man-made plastic, it didn't turn it into the real thing!
Ciao and good luck, Maurizio, Expert Panelist |
| Q
4189: Can you please
advise me on how to get rid of a stain, most likely a greasy one,
tha I generated by putting a dirty pot on topa of a granite countertop.
The granite is called "Jupparana something", is realy light
in color and was sealed about 6 months ago by a sealer recommended
by the installer. I think it was some kind of silicone in paint thinner
like solvent. Thanks., Pavell, Nov14.
Reply |
R1:
Dear Pavell: Typically "Juparana"
"granites" need to be sealed real bad, with the right sealer
and several times over, before it gets ... well, almost sealed! One
apllication is most likely like nothing at all! To remove the stain
try to poultice it out with Hydrogen Peroxide 30/40 volume, if it's
only a plain food stain. If it's grease instead, poultice it out with
acetone. I did write a comprehensive papaer about stain removal. It
does carry a small price tag, but it's worth every penny of it and
then some! It's certainly cheaper than any "professional poulticing
kit" you can buy at a stone and tile retail outlet, and that
no real professional worth their salt will ever use! If your fabricator
-- like they seem -- can't help you with that, you may want to coinsider
my information. Gimme a holler at:
info@findstone.com. Ciao and
good luck, Maurizio, Expert Panelist |
| Q
4188: What type
of surface prep would have to be done to install marble over a cement
slab where fairly new linoleum has been installed? I am afraid removing
the linoleum may create more problems than just leaving it. Thanks
for the great site. So many of my questions have been answered in
the many hours I have spent reading the posts. Thanks again, Michael,
Nov14. Reply
|
| R1:
Dear Michael: Hmmm ... I don't know, man. I
don't think that thinset will bond to linoleum. If it were a regular
floor I would suggest to nail down either wire-lathe or 3/8"
cement board over the linoleum. But you have cement slab underneath,
so the nailing thing ... I'd remove them linoleum tiles, if I were
you. Now, remember, when it comes to natural stone, maintenance is
an all too important yet neglected subject that should begin before
you even select it, as you can tell from several of this very site's
postings! Don't become another statistic! To get my thorough and in-depth
maintenance guidelines for residential stone installations gimme a
holler at: info@findstone.com.
They do carry a small price tag, but are worth every single penny
of it and then some! You won't find anything like that anywhere else,
I promise! Ciao and good luck, Maurizio, Expert Panelist |
| Q
4187: I bought
some marble tile to do my entryway from home depot. The floor has
existing tile on it (yuk), so once I remove it the floor should be
good to go for the marble. My question is concerning the marble. All
research I have done says green and black marble has a tendency to
curl. This tile is dark grey with white and pink quartz veins. It
is ST SYGUS BROWN, made in China. Is this considered black? What class
of tile is this? Do I seal the bottoms of the tile before I set it
in modified white thinset? Matt, Nov14.
Reply
|
| R1:
Dear Matt: Green marble does have the tendency
to curl. Black? Never heard that one! Never saw any curled black tile
on floors, either! Use white thin set and you should be all right.
If oit's a small entry way, I would consider using the "Stone
Setting Adhesive" by the Custom Builders company, available at
the HD. I love that stuff!! Keep 1/16" gap fro proper grouting,
and use black sandless grout. Should you be interested, you can get
my maintenance guidelines for residential stone installations by giving
me a holler at: info@findstone.com.com.
They do carry a small price tag, but are worth every single penny
and then some! They represent one-of-a-kind document that you won't
find anywhere else, I promise! Ciao and good luck, Maurizio, Expert
Panelist |
| Q
4186: My husband
put our bathroom sink in with caulk last night and it is on a marble
top, Please tell us what to get to remove the caulk without damaging
the top. It is all around the base of the sink. Thank You, Mary, Nov14.
Reply
|
| R1:
Dear Mary: Nothing's easier than that! Use a
brand-new razor blade. I kept flat on the surface of the stone it
will NOT scratch it. Should you be interested, you can get my maintenance
guidelines for residential stone installations by giving me a holler
at: info@findstone.com.com.
They do carry a small price tag, but are worth every single penny
and then some! They represent one-of-a-kind document that you won't
find anywhere else, I promise! Ciao and good luck, Maurizio, Expert
panelist |
| Q
4185: Hi: We recently
bought Baltic Brown granite kitchen countertops. Compared with other
"slabs" we've seen, the one we had installed has a fairly
dull/hazy surface. We'd prefer a highly polished surface. Our fabricator/installer
said they can't do that...of course they already have our money. Question:
Is there a way someone can come into our home and polish these countertops
to a high gloss without removing them? IF so, could you recommend
someone in the Philadelphia area? Thanks, Mark, Nov14.
Reply |
| R1:
Dear Mark: If
the factory couldn't polish it to the degree that you'd like to see,
then I'm afraid it can't be improved. Not all stone polishes the same
way. Or it could just be that your particular slab was not a stellar
grading. Either way, I doubt that anybody could do anything about
it. I do know a good stone refinisher in the Philadelphia area who
could come out and take a look. Gimme a holler at: info@findstone.com.
Ciao and good luck, Maurizio, Expert panelist |
| Q
4184: I am putting
Giblee Granite Countertops in my kitchen and I am wondering if this
is a proper choice for a kitchen countertop. Please advise. Scott,
Nov14.
Reply |
| R1:
Dear Scott: No, it's
not, in my opinion. But then again, if it was treated by the factory
(not your fabricator) in a certain way, it could be. Still confused?
If you -- like it appears -- don't trust too much your fabricator,
you should get your own intelligence on the subject. I wrote a very
interesting article on "How to Shop for a Kitchen Countertop"
that will give you all the intelligence you need to venture yourself
with confidence in the stone industry jungle! It does carry a small
price tag, but is worth every penny of it and then some! Gimme a holler
at: info@findstone.com. You'll
be glad you did! You can also ask me how to get my comprehensive maintenance
guidelines on residential stone installations. Remember, when it comes
to natural stone, maintenance is an all too important yet neglected
subject that should begin before you even select it, as you can tell
from several of this very site's postings! Don't become another statistic!
Ciao and good luck, Maurizio, Expert Panelist |
| Q
4183: I work for
California and are expanding our Countertop department as we manurfacture
Corian, Formica, and Granite countertops and may be expanding into
Marble. We have a hard time locating experienced installers and fabricators?
We pay very well, do you have any suggestions? Lupi, Nov14.
Reply |
R1:
Dear Lupi: Maybe "very well" is not
good enough. You should try "better than anybody
else"! That should work, all right! :-) Ciao and good luck, Maurizio,
Expert Panelist |
| Q
4181: What is the
best non-toxic, obviously, way to clean my marble pestle and mortar
of the stains acquired by crushing fresh herbs etc, Lisa, Nov14.
Reply
|
| R1: Dear
Lisa: You can soak it in a solution (3:1) of water and household bleach
for a day or so. That'll work all right, and with no damage to the
stone. The question is: Why do you want to get rid of those stains?
They are not unsanitary and give so much "character" to
your pestel and mortar!! But, hey, it's just me! Ciao and good luck,
Maurizio, Expert Panelist |
| Q
4180: We just bought
a home with cheap imitation marble counter tops in the bathroom They
are in poor shape and we will replace some day. They are off white
in color and the finish or polishing is also poor. But in the meanwhile
I would like to fix a few chips around the lip of the sink. They are
very noticeable and anything would look better. Is there anything
that we can fill in these chips with and then sand or polish? It wouldn’t
have to be perfect since the rest of the counter is old, Lisa, Nov14.
Reply
|
| R1: Dear
Lisa: If it's a cheap imitation of marble, why do you came to this
site? Unfortunately, we don't know anything about imitations of stone!
:-) Ciao and good luck, Maurizio, Expert Panelist |
| Q
4179: As you say,
maintenance begins before purchase and selection. If you have some
guidelines I'd appreciate hearing. Would like to put brownish red
marble by the range and travertine on the island.I'd be careful about
wiping up but as I read on the forum, sometimes even the fastest wiper
is no match for and intrusive liquid.steven, Nov14.
Reply
|
|
R1: Dear
Steven: Should you be interested, you can get my maintenance guidelines
for residential stone installations by giving me a holler at: info@findstone.com.com.
They do carry a small price tag, but are worth every single penny
and then some! They represent one-of-a-kind document that you won't
find anywhere else, I promise! However, if you're thinking polished
marble and travertine, save your money. No guideline or "miracle-in-a-bottle"
will do you any good! That's exactly why -- like you pointed out
-- maintenance begins at the time of the selection of the stone!!
If it's polished marble and travertine, that IS the wrong selection!
Ciao and good luck, Maurizio, Expert Panelist
|
| Q
4178: Could you
get me more information on lava stone pavers, Karen,
Nov14. Reply |
| Q
4177: We are having
flagstone installed on our patio. The area will be used for entertaining
and there will be a free standing fire place and barbecue located
in the flagstone area. Our builder has recommended against sealing
but our understanding is that it should be sealed. Can you advise
on this, and if sealing should be done, what sealer is best. Thanks.
John , Nov13. Reply |
| R1: Dear
Jhon: Well, what kind of stone are you talking about? I understand
you wrote flagstone, but which one stone is it made of? Let me know,
then I'll let you know! Ciao and good luck, Maurizio, Expert Panelist |
| Q
4176: We live in
a 98 year old house. Our basement walls our limestone. We would like
to repair a few spots that are flaking..and then paint. What should
we use to clean the walls..and then repair them? Thanks for any advise.
John, Nov13. Reply
|
| Q
4175: I totally
love your site but am now nervous about my decision. I selected GOLDEN
BEACH NEW (I believe also known as Juparana Persa) for my kitchen
counter tops. I purchased my hand-selected slab direct from IGM and
was advised this was an excellent choice. Do you agree? This stone
is not referenced in many places. Do you know the history? vIs this
cross reference to Juparana Persa correct? Thank you. Joanne, Nov13.
Reply
|
R1: Dear
Jaonne: Ever since they closed down the original quarry of Juparana
Colombo in Shri Lanka, a whole army (and counting!) of "Juparanas"
has springed up from all over the world! I personally never considered
Juparana as a good choice for a kitchen countertop (too darn porous),
but then, I never heard of that particular brand-new Juparana Persa,
either! Besides, I learnt to steer away from commenting on any particular
stone. There can be differences (and not only in looks) within the
same stone, from one bundle of slabs to the next! I wrote a very interesting
article on "How to Shop for a Kitchen Countertop" that will
give you all the intelligence you need to venture yourself with
confidence in the stone industry jungle! It does carry a small price
tag, but is worth every penny of it and then some! Gimme a holler
at: info@findstone.com.
You'll be glad you did! You can also ask me how to get my comprehensive
maintenance guidelines on residential stone installations. Remember,
when it comes to natural stone, maintenance is an all too important
yet neglected subject that should begin before you even select it,
as you can tell from several of this very site's postings! Don't become
another statistic! Ciao and good luck, Maurizio, Expert Panelist |
| Q
4174: Hello, I
have new granite kitchen countertops made from Bronzino (Black Galaxy)
granite. I noticed that there are a couple of scratches and I would
like to know if the scratches could be polished away, or what else
I could do to remove them. I have been extremely careful with the
counter and cannot imagine how the scratches got there in the first
place. I thought you could even cut on granite (I have NOT done this,
however) without scratching it. My countertop is only two months old
-- please help. Thank you, Joan, Nov13.
Reply |
| R1: Dear
Joan: I have bad news and good news! The bad news is that nobody can't
get a scratch out. A scratch is something missing already! How could
you possible get a hole out of a doughnut?! The answer is: You eat
the doughnut and the hole is gone! :-) The good news is that your
damage can be repaired. In other words, you need a professional stone
refinisher to come out and slightly grind your granite surface off
down to the depth of the scratches, then honing and re-polishing the
area to match the rest of the surface. It's going to cost you, but
it's only money! Should you be interested, you can get my maintenance
guidelines for residential stone installations by giving me a holler
at: info@findstone.com.com.
They do carry a small price tag, but are worth every single penny
and then some! They represent one-of-a-kind document that you won't
find anywhere else, I promise! Ciao and good luck, Maurizio, Expert
Panelist |
| Q
4172: Considering
buying granite, but concerned about possible staining. Would appreciate
your input/instructions/precautions. Thanks, Jim, Nov13.
Reply |
| R1: Dear
Jim: There are plenty possible choices among the mercantile granites
available that will make you a happy camper. On the other side of
the coin, there are other "granites" that won't! This very
site is soaked with the tears of inquirers who didn't do some basic
homework before making a decision and trusted the stone"expertise"
of dealers and contractors! I wrote a very interesting article on
"How to Shop for a Kitchen Countertop" that will give you
all the intelligence you need to venture yourself with confidence
in the stone industry jungle! It does carry a small price tag, but
is worth every penny of it and then some! Gimme a holler at:
info@findstone.com. You'll be glad you did! You can also ask me
how to get my comprehensive maintenance guidelines on residential
stone installations. Remember, when it comes to natural stone, maintenance
is an all too important yet neglected subject that should begin before
you even select it, as you can tell from several of this very site's
postings! Don't become another statistic! Ciao and good luck, Maurizio,
Expert Panelist |
| Q
4171: The interior
of our church has Crab Orchard Sandstone. Over the past few years
we have noticed a water leak from the roof structure. The water has
run down the plaster walls, then hits the Crab Orchard Sandstone which
now we see rust colored stains. Can any thing be done to remove these
stains, Tom, Nov13. Reply |
| R1: Dear
Tom: You can try poulticing those stains out using a product called
"Iron out" (available at many hardware store). Personally
I have little hope, however ... but it's worth trying nonetheless!
Ciao and good luck, Maurizio, Expert Panelist |
| Q
4170: Hello! We
own a house built in 1907 complete with original sandstone sidewalks
from quarries nearby in Amherst, Ohio. Some sandstone was crushed
during remodeling and the contractor replaced it with new, machine-cut
sandstone (also locally quarried). The new stone on our public walkway
is very smooth. It appears to hold moisture constantly since installation
in June (it is now November). Because it is in a shaded area, it receives
little sunlight. Now it has become extraordinarily slick. It appears
that moss or algae or mold is growing on it. We have poured a 10 percent
bleach solution on it, let it set and then scraped and scrubbed some
growth off. But it appears to return. And the walk is so slick we
have had calls from walkers concerned about falling. The old walk
-- in the same location -- did not have the slickness problem. After
a century of weathering, the surface had become etched and slightly
rough. We wonder if we could accelerate the weathering by putting
some kind of acid on the walk? If we could roughen it, it would reduce
the slickness, we think. The drainage has not changed, and the lack
of sunlight is the same, so the change causing the slickness seems
to be the fresh-cut surface and lack of weathering. Do you have any
advice on how to cure this problem that is a lawsuit waiting to happen?
Thank you. Hope in Oberlin, Ohio, Nov13.
Reply |
| R1:
Dear Hope in Oberlin. This is one of those situations
where I can only guess about the cause of your problem without actually
looking at it. My biggest concern would be why the newly installed
stone is staying wet while the old stone does not. Some how moisture
is wicking up from below in the new area. Was the stone set in the
same way as the older stone? Was there some sort of moisture barrier
between the bottom of the stone and the substrate in the original
installation that was neglected in the new installation? You are correct
in that it is alga, moss, and molds that are growing on the stone,
and they will do so as long as the stone is staying wet. Try a stronger
bleaching agent or get some fungicide from the garden store. You can
also rough up the machine cut surface by bush hammering it. This will
at least texture the surface so it won't be so slick. But above all,
figure out where the water is coming from and fix that. Wet sandstone
is notorious for spalling during freeze- cycles, and in your location,
you are about to see some of these. Good luck, JVC, Expert Panelist |
| Q
4169: We recently
installed new venetian gold on our kitchen counter, our installer
put on one coat of sealer and told me to do another in 6 mo. I actually
plan on using the kitchen to cook in. Have gotten a butter stain on
granite. The appearance of the stain does not bother me however one
of my friends is telling me that it is a potential health hazard,
that the grease absorbed in the stone can become rancid and contaminate
whatever is put on that area. My question is is stain removal is purely
cosmetic or is it also a matter of hygeine? If hygienic how do I attempt
to remove? If only cosmetic do I need to seal the stone more or can
I just live with how it ages (stains) with cooking? (yes I did get
a sample ahead of time and do lemon juice test, it passed, used sample
as coaster for red wine bottle-had to search for stain it left, even
tried out some butter and it didn't stain, unfortunately the stain
I have now is from a stick of butter I left on counter just before
a heat wave, forgot it was there, it partially melted and was on counter
for at least 24 hours, I usually keep kitchen cleaner but am still
doing wallpaper, etc) Betty, Nov13.
Reply |
| R1: Dear
Betty: It the saining agent had been, sya, coffee, then it would be
only cosmetic. In the case of butter I tend to side with your friend's
comment. You should try to remove it by poulticing it out with acetone.
If you're not familiar with the procedure, I did write a comprehensive
document on stain removal. If you're interested, gimme a holler at:
info@findstone.com. It
does carry a little price tag, but it's worth every single penny and
them some! Should you be also interested, you can get my maintenance
guidelines for residential stone installations by giving me a holler
at: info@findstone.com.
They, too carry a small price tag, but they represent one-of-a-kind
document that you won't find anywhere else, I promise! Ciao and good
luck, Maurizio, Expert Panelist |
| Q
4168: I am trying
to decide between honed granite and soapstone for kitchen countertops
in a renovation of a 1920's house. I am interested in any comparisons
of maintenance,care, appearance,etc. Thank you, Gaither, Nov13.
Reply |
|
R1: Dear
Gaither: I personally like neither. It's a mechanic talking, not
an interior decorator. Ciao and good luck, Maurizio, Expert panelist
|
Q
4167: I really
enjoy reading responses. I have three questions
1) How do I clean my polished uba tuba kitchen countertops?
2) What is your feeling on stone-look porcelain floor tiles
3) What type of natural stone would you recommend for bathroom floor
and vanities?Thanks and best regards, Deidre , Nov13.
Reply |
R1: Dear
Deidre: I'll answer your questions backward:
3) No slate and no limestone. Marble, granite and travertine are all
right.
2) I love them!
1) Should you be interested, you can get my maintenance guidelines
for residential stone installations by giving me a holler at:
info@findstone.com. They do carry a small price tag, but are worth
every single penny and then some! They represent one-of-a-kind document
that you won't find anywhere else, I promise! Ciao and good luck,
Maurizio, Expert Panelist |
| Q
4166: Could someone
please give us some advise on how to get rid of magic marker on marble
we have tried everything, Debbie, Nov13.
Reply |
| Q
4165: I have Blue
Pearl on my kitchen countertops and simply want to know how to clean
and disinfect it. Will Windex hurt the surface? Coc, Nov13.
Reply |
| R1: Dear
Coc: Every maintenance chemical that was not specifically formulated
in a way NOT to interact with natural stone while cleaning soil off
it, may damage it; either in the short or the long run. Why do you
think there are companies out there that invested considerable amount
of money to develop cleaning product specifically formulated to clean
natural stone without damaging it? And, please, don't ask why your
fabricator (or whoever else) told you to use a glass cleaner to clean
your Blue Pearl"!! Should you be interested, you can get my maintenance
guidelines for residential stone installations by giving me a holler
at: info@findstone.com. They
do carry a small price tag, but are worth every single penny and then
some! They represent one-of-a-kind document that you won't find anywhere
else, I promise! Ciao and good luck, Maurizio, Expert Panelist |
| Q
4164: We are in
the early phases of kitchen design and countertop selection, and would
like to know more about Canada green (maybe also known as prairie
green?) granite slabs for a countertop. I have found very little information
on the internet about this type of granite, and would appreciate any
comments in regards to its general suitability as a kitchen countertop.
We were told by the retailer that this stone has superior resistance
to both staining and etching. Charollete, Nov13.
Reply |
| R1: Dear
Charollete: I steer away from comments on specific "granites".
Nothing is "written in stone" in the stone world! Even the
same stone can present differences (and not just in looks!) from one
bundle of slabs and the next. I only believe in facts, and the fats
can only be obtained by testing (very easy, home conducted testing,
relax!) I wrote a very interesting article on "How to Shop for
a Kitchen Countertop" that will give you all the intelligence
you need to venture yourself with confidence in the stone industry
jungle! It does carry a small price tag, but is worth every penny
of it and then some! Gimme a holler at: info@findstone.com. You'll
be glad you did! You can also ask me how to get my comprehensive maintenance
guidelines on residential stone installations. Remember, when it comes
to natural stone, maintenance is an all too important yet neglected
subject that should begin before you even select it, as you can tell
from several of this very site's postings! Don't become another statistic!
Ciao and good luck, Maurizio, Expert Panelist |
| Q
4163: I would like
to know if there are any type of strips sold that are made of silica
sand mixed with akemi already fabricated for marble steps (the part
that prevents the steps from being slippery). I know I can mix silica
sand and akemi together and pour this mixture into the groove cut
in the marble step, but I want to know if I can buy the strip already
fabricated and glue it somehow to the marble step, Cello,
Nov13. Reply
|
| Q
4162: I've been
reading your answers on findstone.com
and don't want to become another statistic...pls send me your maintenance
notes. I'm installing stone in multiple places in my renovated home.
Regards, Bruce, Nov13.
Reply |
| R1: Dear
Bruce: Yes, of course. Gimme a holler at: info@findstone.com. Ciao
and good luck, Maurizio, Expert Panelist |
| Q
4161: I am in the
process of restoring a church. This church has an area that has a
marble wall (Aprox dimensions are 7 ft wide 7 ft high and 3 inches
thick) This wall appears to have been glued to the wall in pieces
and then some form of grout was applied to the seams. My Question
is does any one have any recommendations on how to remove this from
the wall where the seams are. I am trying to preserve it to move to
another location. Aubin, Nov13. Reply |
| Q
4160: Could I please
get a copy of your maintenance guidelines for residential stone installations,
Hank, Nov7.
Reply |
| R1: Dear
Hank: Yes, of course. Gimme a holler at: info@findstone.com. Ciao
and good luck, Maurizio, Expert Panelist |
| Q
4159: Do you have
any experience with "brushed absolute black" granite? it
is a textured black granite with a matte finish--looks loike slate.
thanks, Lshzar, Nov7. Reply |
R1: Dear
Lshzar: Yes I do, and big time, too!
STAY AWAY FROM IT!! It's a total maintenance nightmare! Thank goodness
it looks like the word's spread around, because the sales of such
an item are in decline. Should you be interested, you can get my maintenance
guidelines for residential stone installations by giving me a holler
at: info@findstone.com.
They do carry a small price tag, but are worth every single penny
and then some! They represent one-of-a-kind document that you won't
find anywhere else, I promise! Ciao and good luck, Maurizio, Expert
Panelist |
| Q
4158: If marbel
is a porous material can it me used for bathroom floors since it might
absorb water. Also will it not be to slippery, Mamta,
Nov7. Reply
|
| R1: Dear
Mamta: I don't know who gave you such a stupid information. Yes, marble
is porous, but not much. In fact, most of the times it does not requires
to be sealed with an impregnator-type sealer. For all I know, when
wet (besides carpet) all surfaces are slippery! Should you be interested,
you can get my maintenance guidelines for residential stone installations
by giving me a holler at:info@findstone.com.
They do carry a small price tag, but are worth every single penny
and then some! They represent one-of-a-kind document that you won't
find anywhere else, I promise! Ciao and good luck, Maurizio, Expert
Panelist |
| Q
4157: A friend
is a general importer from India and has just started to import marble
from that country. My friend has suggested we may wish to use this
Indian marble to do our floor when we undertake a major renovation
of our house. Neither my friend nor I is experienced with marble so
I wounder if you would explain the pros and cons of using marble -
also, is Indian marble well regarded? What should I be wary off?
Robert, Nov7.
Reply
|
| R1: Dear
Robert: I regard Indian marbles very much -- at least the few I'm
familiar with. As far as pros and cons are concerned, they depends
on the way a particular person perceives marble, and what he or she
expects from it. In other words, your pros and cons may not be the
same for the next person. You could learn a few things about marble
and its maintenance requirements by getting my maintenance guidelines
for resideantial stone installation. They do carry a small price tag,
but, trust me on that, they are well worth it! Gimme a holler at:
info@findstone.com. I'll be
glad to help you out! Ciao and good luck, Maurizio, Expert Panelist |
| Q
4156: I am Egyptian
markter & need to know about marble in my country, import, export,
quarries, and in all of the world, becous I am doing a market plan
to export bloks,slabs,and tils& art work for florring,antequs
too. I expect a great help from you,
Nov7. Reply |
| Q
4156:
What do you think of multicolor red,
or green malitaca(aka verde san francisco) for kitchen counters? Bob,
Nov7. Reply
|
| R1: Dear
Bob: I never think anything. I only believe in facts, and the facts
only emerge from testing. I wrote a very interesting article on "How
to Shop for a Kitchen Countertop" that will give you all the
intelligence you need to venture yourself with confidence in the stone
industry jungle! Gimme a holler at: info@findstone.com.
You'll be glad you did! You can also ask me how to get my comprehensive
maintenance guidelines on residential stone installations. Remember,
when it comes to natural stone, maintenance is an all too important
yet neglected subject that should begin before you even select it,
as you can tell from several of this very site's postings! Don't become
another statistic! Ciao and good luck, Maurizio |
| Q
4155: Please forward
your article on How To Shop For a Kitchen Countertop as well as your
information on maintenance guidelines. We are building a new home
in Florida and are still in the process of choosing Giallo Veneziano
granite slabs for our kitchen countertops. The salesman for the granite
company tried to tell us that if we look at one slab in the "family"
we do not need to look at the other 3. As it turned out, by insisting
on looking at the other three, we discovered several imperfections
in all of the slabs. He used masking tape to mark each location that
was to be avoided. Yesterday, we received a phone call from the salesman
saying they are having a difficult time cutting around the imperfections
(no surprise there). The imperfections look like dime to quarter size
dark spots. He suggested that if we were looking for perfection, we
might consider choosing another surface. Any comments you might have
would be greatly appreciated. Thank you. Mary, Nov7.
Reply |
| R1: Dear
Mary: For once the salesman's right. You can't get perfection with
"Giallo Veneziano" or any other "busy" "granite".
Either you accept a few natural flwas as part of the stone, or you
choose a more consistent "granite". About your request for
my articles, gimme a holler at: info@findstone.com.
I'll be glad to oblidge! Ciao and good luck, Maurizio, Expert Panelist |
| Q
4154: I am interested
in receiving your free guidelines for maintenance of residential stone
installations. Just had travertine and granite installed and need
to know how to take care of it. I also noticed advice about not having
granite sealed. Should we seal ours? They called it "black leopard",
said it was from China. Should the travertine be sealed? One other
question, should the granite slab sit right on the cabinets or should
there be a 3/4" board under it? This seems to make it not fit
properly. The bull nose does not "wrap" the cabinet, it
just lays on it and from certain angles you can see the gaps in the
cabinet where the granite lays, KJT, Nov7.
Reply |
| R1:
Dear KJT: Bad countertop
installation right there! (And "MIchelangelo" strikes again!)
Have your fabricator come back and deal with it. Travertine, if polished,
should not be sealed. If hone-finished, only in the kitchen and showerstall
(maybe). About my maintenance guidelines, gimme a holler at: info@findstone.com.
I'll be glad to oblidge! Ciao and good luck, Maurizio, Expert Panelist |
| Q
4153: Hello, my
name is Brianna, my friend Amber and I are doing an 8th grade science
fair project the science question is: which type of roofing materials
wil catch on fire the least? if you can help us in any way we would
appreciate it, Brianna,
Nov7. Reply |
| R1:
Dear Biranna: Slate and
terracotta tiles. Ciao and good luck with science fair project! Maurizio,
Expert Panelist |
| Q
4151: We have Uba
Tuba tiles installed in our kitchen. What do recommend we use to clean
them and keep them shiny? Should they be sealed. Chris,
Nov7. Reply |
| R1:
Dear Chris: Gimme a holler
at: info@findstone.com. I'll
be glad to oblidge! Ciao and good luck, Maurizio, Expert Panelist |
| Q
4150:
I had Tennessee Flagstone steps put
into my pool and the installer tried to put a sealer on it and instead
I got a large stain that is white in color. How do I get this stain
out. Thanks Bernie, Nov7. Reply |
| R1: Dear
Bernie: Very simple: call the installer back and tell him to deal
with it! Ciao and good luck, Maurizio, Expert Panelist |
| Q
4149: Hi, our family
just got a new puppy. I was excited over the fact that the area he
would be staying in was covered in travertine, making "accident"
clean up easy (compared to carpet). What I was disappointed to see
is that when the dog had accidents that it almost immediately etched
the stone, (made dull spots). The stone was sealed when we had it
installed, but it has not helped these areas. Also, I noticed some
spilled coffee did the same thing. Do you have any fixes for this
type of thing? Thank you, Becky, Nov7.
Reply |
| R1:
Dear Becky: Now, what
doe the application of an impregnator/sealer on polished travertine
-- which doesn't need to be sealed to begin with -- has got to do
with acid etching??! Is that the kind of "intelligence"
that you dealer and installer were able to deliver to you? Amazing,
ain't it! (By the way, coffe is slightly acidic, too) Gimme a holler
at: info@findstone.com. I'll
be glad to help you out! Ciao and good luck, Maurizio, Expert Panelist
|
| Q
4148: I just installed
baltic brown granite in my kitchen and am looking for guidelines on
how to care/repair it (I already have a small scratch in it). Thank
you for your help. Meg, Nov7.
Reply |
| R1: Dear
Meg: Gimme a holler at: info@findstone.com.
I'll be glad to oblidge! Ciao and good luck, Maurizio, Expert Panelist |
| Q
4147: Dear Maurizio,
based on your article about stains, is the pet urine a staining agent?
Where do you classify it? How do you clean it? I am planning to put
Saturnia floor. Please let me know , Walter, Nov7.
Reply |
| R1: Dear
Walter: Ues, it is. It would be classified as an organic stain. Ciao
and good luck, Maurizio, Expert Panelist |
|
Q
4146: On the
front of a building Im working on restoring, there is one soapstone
which has spalled off approximately 1/2" to about 1" thick.
It is an area of 16"x16". Is there a product that can
I can trowel on to repair this stone ? Tom, Nov6.
Reply
|
| Q
4145: We are in
Florida, where our water flows through limestone crevices underground
before getting to us. The water leaves spots -- especially around
the faucet. These can be scraped off (I used the edge of a wood golf
tee), but that is rather time consuming. Can I use the edge of a spoon?
These lime deposits "sit up" a bit. Is there something else
that would work well to remove the marks? I have green Uba Tuba counters
in the kitchen and baths, Theresa, Nov6.
Reply |
| R1: Dear
Theresa: With UbaTuba you should be able to remove the hard water
deposit by using "Lyme-away" (spelling?), available at any
supermarket. Don't use that on marble or other calcite-based stones!!
Now, how about the cleaning agent that you use daily on your "granite"?
Please, don't tell me water and dish soap, or glass cleaner! For proper
maintenance guidelines gimme a holler at: info@findstone.com.
Ciao and good luck, Maurizio, Expert Panelist |
| Q
4143: Hi. I've
just had a granite countertop installed by a major retailer in our
area. It's on our kitchen island, and very long, 9 feet. They put
a seam right across the largest part of the granite. My problem is
with the seam. It's about three feet long, and in some spots it's
1/16th of an inch wide, other parts it's 1/8, 1/4, and 1/3 in one
spot. I'd call that jaggedy. Is that kind of rough cut to be expected?
Also, when they put the stuff in the crack, they used a torch and
now the area next to the seam seems wavy. Is that normal or just bad
installation, Steve, Nov6.
Reply
|
| R1: Steve, Without
looking at it it would be unwise to make a designation. That said
it sounds completely wrong. Call the company that provided the counter
and explain your dissatisfaction with them. Regards, Steven, Expert
Panelist |
| R2: Dear
Steve: No, it's not normal by a long shot! And, yes, for what you're
reporting it IS very bad installation. If you bought your countertop
from a "big box" you're in excellent shape: complain and,
either they will force the fabricator to rectify the situation by
replacing your island ("band-aids" and "aspirin"
won't work!), or they'll give you your money back. Now, how about
daily maintenance of your stone (once it's done properly, that is!)
which is so vital yet so neglected? Gimme a holler at: info@findstone.com.
Ciao and good luck, Maurizio, Expert Panelist |
| Q
4142: We have an
immense amount of honed & filled travertine throughout our house.
What specific cleaner should I use for the floors and what should
I use for the showers walls to remove hard water spots, etc.? Cathy,
Nov6.
Reply |
| R1:
Dear Cathy: I did prepared very comprehensive
maintenance guidelines for maintenance of residential stone installations,
floors, walls, countertops, shower enclosures and all! To get them
gimme a holler at: info@findstone.com. Ciao and good luck, Maurizio,
Expert Panelist |
| Q
4141: We are thinking
of installing this stone on our island backsplash and behind the cooktop
. Do you think this application would be ok? What type of adhesive
should be used? Thanks. Don, Nov6. Reply |
| Q
4139: I have acquired
a house with a cultured marble shower and would like to replace the
walls, however the shower base is no longer being manufactured. Is
it possible to prep and paint the base to match the new walls (they
would be a gloss black) and have it withstand normal usage? What type
of paint would be successful ? Thanks.Keen, Nov6.
Reply |
| R1:
Dear Keen: I know absolutely
nothing about plastic and paints. Sorry. Ciao and good luck, Maurizio,
Expert Panelist |
| Q
4138: I have Juperano
Columbo granite countertops in my kitchen. How should I attempt to
remove an olive oil stain? Kate, Nov5.
Reply |
| R1: Dear
Kate: I wrote a very compehensive article about stain removal techniques.
If you want it, gimme a holler at: info@findstone.com.
Ciao and good luck, Maurizio, Expert Panelist |
| Q
4137: About 6 weeks
ago I had "granite" counter tops installed in my kitchen
(amaretto gold). A couple weeks ago I noticed a hairline crack starting
from the backsplash area and running about 4 inches into the counter!
Is this due to improper installation? My contractor hasn't been too
responsive, claiming "it was clean when I left". Any advice?
Also, do I need to seal this type of counter top? What's best for
daily cleaning? Thanks for your informative site, Jenny, Nov5.
Reply
|
| R1: Dear
Jenny: Without actually seeing the crack I really can't make any comment,
but, yes, it could be due to improper installation. Mind though, it's
only a possibility. You've got to try working things out with your
fabricator. About sealing and daily maintenance, gimme a holler at:
info@findstone.com. Ciao and
good luck, Maurizio, Expert Panelist |
| Q
4136: I would like
to request information for an in depth maintenance guideline and on
how to shop for a bona fide stone restoration contractor. Is there
a home appliance (such as a hard floor polisher from Sears or Oreck)
that can be used for maintaining marble floors? James, Nov5.
Reply
|
| R1:
Dear James: Yes, SEARS
carries a little floor machine that's a carpet shapooer and a hard
floor buffer at the same time! It works fine. About maintenance guidelines,
gimme a holler at: info@findstone.com.
Ciao and good luck, Maurizio, Expert Panelist |
| Q
4135: Please can
you help. I have imported some Black Granite from Zimbabwe and it
has oil spots on it. How can I get rid of these spots, Gareth,
Nov5. Reply |
| R1: Dear
Gareth: I wrote a very comprehensive article on stain removal techniques.
If you want to know how to get it, gimme a holler at: info@findstone.com.
Ciao and good luck, Maurizio |
| Q
4134: We have a
shower enclosure that we believe should be completely marbleized and
I need information about hanging/installing marble up-side-down, Thanks,
Frances, Nov5. Reply |
| R1: Dear
Frances: If I had any reson not to like you, I'd tell you how to do
it, but since I love you, the best piece of advice I can give to you
is to hire a professional! For the maintenance of your marble showerstall
(very demanding, indeed!Which includes vital tips on the proper installation
of the tiles) gimme a holler at: info@findstone.com.
Ciao and good luck, Maurizio, Expert Panelist |
| Q
4133: My granite
contractor didn't finish the job I have reasonably well fitted (not
perfectly fitted) slabs in my kitchen, but need to seam them myself.
Can you give me specific brand names to look for in the stores for
seaming material? The counters are Verdi Butterfly, so a black seam
would be fairly invisible, Ed, Nov5.
Reply |
| R1: Dear
Ed: I'd go to a local tile and marble retail outlet and find out with
them. If you'd like to have solid maintenance guideliens about the
daily maintenance of your countertop, gomme a holler at: info@findstone.com
Ciao and good luck, Maurizio, Expert Panelist |
| Q
4132: St. Thomas
is a small US owned island, and I cannot find anyone listed as a marble
stone refinisher. However, there are a lot of guys who are willing
to use a diamond rotary polishing machine to polish my 20 yr old white
marble floor, laid with a 1/2" sanded grout line. Will the sand
from the grout come up and dull the polishing action of the machine?
Should I insist on using a machine that holds 3-4 marble blocks, such
as I have read about, or believe that the diamond rotary disk is OK?
I have an estimate from a regular commercial cleaning company who
has "done marble work, but not lately". They do maintain/buff
the new marble floor of the local bank here, and want $3,600 to "machine
scrub, polish and buff" about 970sq ft. I am ignorant in this
area, and would greatly appreciate your professional opinion,.
Kevin,
Nov5. Reply |
| R1: Dear
Kevin: 1/2' gap with sanded grout, huh. I personally wouldn't touch
that floor with a 10 foot pole! If you didn't have that problem I'd
come and do it myself for that price! Diamond pads are out of the
question. Marble blocks don't exist. There are grinding "bricks"
for grinding, honing and polishing, but you'd need a special machine
to begin with (which, trust me, is not available anywhere on the island!),
plus and most importantly, once again the job couldn't be done because
of the presence of the sanded grout. If I were you I would settle
for someone to come over and use a honing powder all over your floor
with a regular floor machine. It won't be shiny (you'll never be able
to polish it), but it would be clean with a nice uniform satin finish
that, in my opinion, is even better than polished, considering the
"rustic" look that 1/2" grout lines give to the whole
project. For more info about honing powders and how to use them, gimme
a holler at: info@findstone.com.
Ciao and good luck, Maurizio, Expert Panelist |
| Q
4131: We are thinking
of using travertine tiles for our kitchen backsplash. We enjoy cooking
and do not know if the travertine would stain from grease, etc. Could
you please let us know if travertine is a good choice or if we need
to go with something else. Could you give us some suggestions, Anja,
Nov5. Reply |
| R1: Dear
Anja: I want to assume that you're talking about either hone-finished
or tunbled travertine, right? Travertine is indeed a good choice but
it does need to be sealed with a low density impregnator/sealer for
stone (the stone itself is not very porous). To clean the inevitable
splatters off the backsplash surface, we recommend specialty cleaning
products that are formulated for natural stone. To know amore abut
this subject, gimme a holler at: info@findstone.com.
Ciao and good luck, Maurizio, Expert Panelist |
| Q
4129:
We have a new marble threshold in our
bathroom. The marble has several small pits which were not there when
it was installed. The largest is approx. 1.0 x 0.25mm. Can they be
repaired to look like new, or does the threshold have to be replaced?
The threshold would be expensive to replace since it has a bevel on
it for wheelchair access. Thanks. Dean, Nov5.
Reply |
| Q
4128: I have installed
travertine in my kitchen, hallway, entry way, and den. We love its
natural look, however, it is developing holes from the size of a match
head to the size of a pea. Is there any thing that I can do to help
prevent these and how do I repair them? They collect dirt and to me
are unsightly. Dan, Nov5. Reply |
| R1: Dear
Dan: They are unsanitary, too! Buy some wall-grade grout (sandless,
that is) to match the color of the stone. Mix it with latex additive
and, using a putty knife fill the holes leaving a little mund. The
following day, take a razor blade and slowly shave the mound off attacking
it from several directions toward the center, until the filler is
flush with the stone surface. To prevent new holes from opening there's
not much that you can do other than making sure that you're using
a too harsh cleaning agent. For more info on maintenance guidelines
of natural stone, gimme a holler at: info@findstone.com
Ciao and good luck, Maurizio, Expert Panelist |
| Q
4127: Please help....
I have flagstone in my entryway. It's about 15 years old and quite
dull. Recently I had my cat's water bowl on it. What a mistake. Now
I have an area approx 2' X 2' with a bad water stain. Any suggestions,
Cindy,
Nov5. Reply |
| Q
4126: My hubby
was given about 8 boxes of tile that he decided to put on the kitchen
countertops. He has not grout them yet but he noticed that a couple
of tiles got stained when he was cooking... he could not get the stain
out; so, he replaced the tile.. I noticed that the tile is "pool"
tile.. Even though I love the non-slid texture of the tile, the color,
etc. What can we do or use to seal the tile from getting stained and
to make sure the sealant is safe to use on the kitchen countertops..
HELP!! Nov5. Reply |
| Q
4124: We just had
a granite kitchen counter put in using Giallo Veneziano and it has
spots that will not shine it looks like it has water spots little
1/2 inch ruff spots .... the installer says it is the stone..... so
i told him to replace it ... now he states all Giallo Veneziano has
that feature .... is this true, Michael, Nov4. Reply |
| R1: Michael,
Yes it is true. Certain stones, Giallo Veneziano being one of them
does have this type of characteristic. Regards, Steven, Expert Panelist |
| Q
4123: Saw a posting
from you on findstone.com about some guidelines for maintaining home
stone installations. We purchased a home recently with travertine
floors. The travertine turns out to have some scratches, which, I
believe can be minimized through polishing. The home also has a nice
granite countertop which is in excellent condition Before doing anything,
we are looking for guidance from experts. The web site findstone.com
has provided much useful information. Thanks to you all, and thanks
in advance for any further information or guidance you can supply.
Regards, Bill, Nov4. Reply |
| R1: Dear
Bill: For starters, polishing your traqvertine will not minimize the
scratches. Second and most importantly, how to plan to go about the
business of polishing? You can't certainly do it yourself, that's
for sure! As far as you kitchen countertop is concerned, spill a few
drops of water on it and see it darkens where the water is sitting.
If it does, then your "granite" needs to be sealed. If not,
it does not. As far as daily maintenance is concerned, gimme a holler
at: info@findstone.com Ciao
and good luck, Maurizio,Expert Panelist |
| Q
4122:
I'm trying to find out why Belfast sinks
are so called. Can you please help, Dr Anthony, Nov4. Reply |
| R1:
I have been told in the
past that the name derives from the 'Belfast' company that first manufactured
them. I have seen Belfast branded old sinks so it seems feasible.
Bryan UK, Expert Panelist |
| Q
4121: I have scratched
some slate tile on my floor with a piece of machinery and do not know
how to treat this scratch. It is fairly deep, about 1/8", and
fairly long and wide. I would rather not replace the tile, so do you
have any suggestions about repairing this scratch? I saw your article
about contacting you concerning the correct tools to perform this
operation. I hope you can elaborate, Bob, Nov2. Reply
|
| R1:
Dear Bob: Nobody can
remove a scratch. It would be like trying to remove a hole out of
doughnut! What you should do is to eat the doughnut and the hole is
gone! Same thing with your slate: you'd have to grind your tile along
the scratch down to the depth of it, and the scratch is gone. The
only unsurmontable problem is that you can't grind natural-cleft finished
stone. This is by far the major draw-back with natural-cleft slate
used as a flooring material: it can't be refinished. Forget it, replace
the tile. Ciao and good luck, Maurizio, Expert Panelist |
| Q
4119: We would
like to know if this limestone is too porous to use on the kitchen
countertops. some say yes and some say you just have to watch out
for acidic liquids..what about washing dishes. Fran, Nov2. Reply
|
| R1: Dear
Fran: I never heard of a limestone called "this". Ciao and
good luck, Maurizio, Expert Panelist |
| R2: Don't
do it. We were considering it and went home with a sample (unsealed).
It failed the grape juice and ketchup tests on contact. Too high risk
for us -- even if well sealed. Lisa |
| R2: Fran.
Just what limestone is this limestone? That aside, with any calcite
based stone, you do need to be aware that any thing acidic including
vinegar and most fruit and vegetable pulp and juices. These will chemically
etch your surface. Most limestone is fairly absorbent also, although
some more so than others, and a penetrating sealer will help keep
spills from entering the stone and staining, but no sealer will prevent
the surface etching from happening. Good luck, JVC, Expert Panelist |
| Q
4118: We want the
list of all available stones in nigeria, for research purpose, Funchso,
Nov2. Reply
|
| Q
4117: Are there
any differences between verde ubatuba and verde butterfly with regard
to porosity, and hardness, resistance to scratching, etc (it will
be put in a residential kitchen). Also, when shopping for this, should
we look for anything such as number of passes for polishing , etc.?
Also, what sealant works best to resist oil stains? Thankyou for any
guidance you can offer in this regard. Sim,
Nov2. Reply |
| R1: Dear
Sim, VERDE BUTTERFLY should be with less water absorption and larger
strength than VERDE UBATUBA. Hardness and resistance to scratching
is similar. Daniel, Slovakia, Expert panelist. |
| Q
4116: Great site!
I was ignorant, and impatient enough to get in a hurry grouting a
flagstone patio surface. I've got flagstone set in mortar on a concrete
slab. Then tile grout between stones. The surface was fairly uneven
and I missed some grout in large areas 1/4 inch thick in some places.
Any suggestions on removal of this unwanted grout? Jason, Nov2. Reply |
Q
4115: We want to
install Green Rose Granite as our kitchen countertop. I have a small
kitchen and only room for a a 25in sink. I now have a Kohler overmount
porcelain sink with a corner garbage disposal. I like this because
now I have two drains and room under the sink for a garbage can. I
want to install a new sink just like this but I want it to be undermount.
We have gone to several installers of granite and one told me he could
install this as an undermount sink even though it actually is an overmount
and put the granite around it. Do you know if this is actually possible
and can it turn out nice? No other fabricator has mentioned doing
this for us - they all say we will have to go to a single undermount
sink of 25in which is not what I want. Can you give us advice-Thanks
Jim, Nov2. Reply |
R1:
Dear Jim: I'm old enough to have learned that when some say: "It
can't be done..." more often than not they are sut up by somebody
that just did it! Most people think inside the box because it's the
comfortable thing to do, After all that's why there are only a few
leaders and so many followers! Then, once in a blue moon, somebody
who decides to use his or her own brain, dares to think outside the
box and does ... the impossible! I ought to know: I made it my rule
to always question the box!! Call me radical if you want, but I like
the fabricator who told you that they can do it! Now, remember, when
it comes to natural stone, maintenance is an all too important yet
neglected subject that should begin before you even select it, as
you can tell from several of this very site's postings! Don't become
another statistic! To get my thorough and in-depth maintenance guidelines
for residential stone installations gimme a holler at: info@findstone.com.
You'll be glad you did! Ciao and good luck, Maurizio, Expert Panelist |
| Q
4114:
Is $3,600 a fair and reasonable price
to "machine scrub, polish and buff" 960 square feet of 20year
old white marble tile flooring laid with 1/2" grout line? It
would be done with a "comercial machine that uses a diamond disk"
Please let me know soon. Thank-you Carol, Nov2. Reply |
| R1:
Dear Carol: Yes. Now, remember, once your floor
is restored you want to make sure that you will maintain it properly,
as you can tell from several of this very site's postings! Don't become
another statistic! To get my thorough and in-depth maintenance guidelines
for residential stone installations gimme a holler at: info@findstone.com.
You'll be glad you did! Ciao and good luck, Maurizio, Expert Panelist |
| Q
4113: Hello. I
recently purchased travertine tiles for my entry way, two hall ways,
kitchen and bath rooms. I haven't had it installed yet, but after
reading through the web site I'm wondering if purchasing the travertine
was a good idea. Is the kitchen floor the only area of the house were
I use a sealer or do I seal everywhere? Do I seal before and after
the floor is installed? I don't have lots of money so I don't want
to make any mistakes. If it doesn't turn out right my wife will kill
me. Please help I really want this project to be a success., Leechef,
Nov2. Reply |
R1: Dear
Leechef: Now, we don't want your wife to kill you, do we! If it's
polished travertine you do NOT want it in the kitchen. While sealing
wouldn't be necessary, absorbency (better said, the lack thereof)
would be the least of your concerns! If the travetine is hone-finished,
then it's OK to install it all over. You may want to consider sealing
it in the kitchen and, maybe, in the showerstall.
Now, remember, when it comes to natural stone, maintenance is an all
too important yet neglected subject that should begin before you even
select it, as you can tell from several of this very site's postings!
Don't become another statistic! To get my thorough and in-depth maintenance
guidelines for residential stone installations gimme a holler at:
info@findstone.com. You'll
be glad you did! Ciao and good luck, Maurizio, Expert Panelist |
| Q
4111: Is pietra cardosa a good
kitchen countertop material? do you have any experience with "brshed
absolute back"? thanks, Nov2.
Reply |
| Q
4110: I
have "Blue Eyes" Granite in my kitchen. I've noticed a large
dark area around the installed hand soap dispenser. The excess hand
soap seems to have absorbed into the granite. It was supposably sealed
on installation, 6 months ago. Any suggestions on how to get the stain
out or prevent it from reoccuring? Thanks - Val, Nov2.
Reply |
| R1: Dear
Val: Not much, really. The stain is through and through. It was probaly
absorbed by the sides of the hole, rather than from the top. It's
also possible that your fabricator did a lousy sealing job. Virtually
impossible to remove. Have your fabricator deal with it, they made
good money out of your countertop. Ciao and good luck, Maurizio, Expert
Panelist |
| Q
4109: I have been
having a very difficult time cleaning my slates floors. Everyone tells
me to do a different thing to do. What should I do? I have black slate
in my shower and on the floors. In the past I used Miracle sealer
and Miracle enhancer. My floors and shower have white marks coming
out. It looks very dirty. Please help! Dana, Nov2. Reply |
| R1: Dear
Dana: For your mental well being, rip it out and start all over with
a more proper stone. Ciao and good luck, Maurizio, Expert Panelist |
| Q
4108: Is there
a problem if you use rubber backed rugs on a polished marble floor
eg will the rubber discolor the marble? Hope you can help us with
an answer to this. Thanks, Ann, Nov2. Reply
|
| R1: Dear
Ann: Not all rubber compounds are the same, as not all marble are
the same. Some time -- though not often -- under the "right"
circumstances, damage can occr (mostly etching). Now, remember, when
it comes to natural stone, maintenance is an all too important yet
neglected subject that should begin before you even select it, as
you can tell from several of this very site's postings! Don't become
another statistic! To get my thorough and in-depth maintenance guidelines
for residential stone installations gimme a holler at: info@findstone.com.
You'll be glad you did! Ciao and good luck, Maurizio, Expert Panelist |
| Q
4107: We mistakenly
bought a piece of snadstone-thinking it was marble for our bathrrom
vanity top. Whenwe took it the marble cutter, he never mentioned that
it was sandstone until it was already cut -$215 later he tells us
he had to seal it because it just like a sponge. I fear that we have
made a very ,expensive mistake. Is there any hope that our sandstone
vanity top will not be an ugly stain ridden eyesore? How can we prevent
stains or should we throw it away before we attach it to the vanity?
Please Help. ATT, Nov2. Reply
|
| R1: Dear ATT:
I depends on the sandstone, the sealer and the operator who applies
it. If all the factors of the equation are in place, then there's
hope (well ... kinda!). Should you need more infor, gimme a holler
at: info@findstone.com. Ciao
and good luck, Maurizio, Expert Panelist |
Q
4106: Dear sir,
Kindly send me the physical &chemical properties of the following
sand stones from india. 1.Beig sand stone (Dholphur)
2.Pink sand stone (Dholphur), Shrikanth, Nov2. Reply |
| Q
4103: I met a company
at International Stone Show in Las Vegas last weekend. They are selling
Turkish travertine pavers. According to them, 1 1/4" thick is
good for driveway with sand installation up to 12"x12".
Do you think 1 1/4" is thick enough for a car to drive on it?
If I use granite instead of travertine, is 1 1/4" still workable?
Jim, Nov2. Reply |
| Q
4102: I had a goldish
brown granite kitchen countertop installed about a year ago. When
the contractor installed my sink, he used some kind of fixative/sealer/glue?
to seal around the sink. He assured me the wet looking spots would
dry over time. They never did. The rough unsealed edges of granite
underneath the over mount sink absorbed this stuff and now it looks
like a one inch wet spot around my sink, although it is definitely
not caused by water. Is there anything I can do to extract or repair
this? Krista, Nov2. Reply |
| R1: Dear
Krista: Nope. Ciao and good luck, Maurizio, Expert Panelist |
| Q
4100: Can you suggest
anyway to "Cover" up the offcentered tile on our fireplace
face? We've installed a new insert and the tiles lines REALLY show
up. We've heard of a masonry type "Faux" finish, do you
know anything about it? Or, would the thin layers of stone be good
to reface with? Where can we find them in, California area? What would
you suggest (short of redoing all of the tile work). Thanks, respectfully,
Pat, Nov2. Reply |
| Q
4099: I have found
a granite I like called "Lapidus". I can find very little
if anything about it. Perhaps it is AKA something else. Are you familiar
with this stone and if so is it well adapted to the kitchen. It has
interesting seams of quartz that are bluish gray as well as a very
earthy browns and tans. It looks similar to some Juparana's I have
seen. Thanks Bill, Nov2. Reply |
| R1: Dear
Bill: Never heard of it. To find out whether or not is suitable for
a kitchen countertop you're going to have to find that out on your
own. I wrote a very interesting article on "How to Shop for a
Kitchen Countertop" that will give you all the intelligence you
need to venture yourself with confidence in the stone industry jungle!
Gimme a holler at: info@findstone.com.
You'll be glad you did! You can also ask me how to get my comprehensive
maintenance guidelines on residential stone installations. Remember,
when it comes to natural stone, maintenance is an all too important
yet neglected subject that should begin before you even select it,
as you can tell from several of this very site's postings! Don't become
another statistic! Ciao and good luck, Maurizio, Expert panelist |
| Q
4098: Soapstone.
For residential countertops good or bad choice? Where can one buy
slabs at a decent price? Lone,
Nov2. Reply |
| Q
4097: Help! Grease
stains on unsealed granite! Is there anything I can do to get them
out? Krigier, Nov2. Reply |
| R1: Dear Krigier:
Did you ask to your fabricator? What did they tell you? If they don't
know, gimme a holler at: info@findstone.com.
Ciao and good luck, Maurizio, Expert Panelist |
| Q
4096: I had Ivory
Brown granite installed in my kitchen about 6 months ago. At the time
of installation, the installer applied 2 coats of sealer and said
that we wouldnt't have to seal it again for a year. We had an overflow
on our dishwasher that was putting wet water on the granite strip
behind the sink. It makes the granite look oily or wet. We thought
it would dry out once the overflow valve was fixed but it hasn't.
Will the application of acetone or hydrogen peroxide work on this
even though it is not an oil stain? Also, in case it makes a difference
we live in an area where we have hard water so we use a water softner.
Lin, Nov2. Reply |
| R1: Dear
Lin: Obviously, your "granite" is not even close to being
sealed properly! Two applications of a sealer, one right after another,
speak volume about the total lack of professionalism of your fabricator.
Each coat should be applied after an interval of at least 24 hours.
What's more, probably your "granite" will need something
like 6 to 12 applications (also depending on the make of the sealer)
-- always with an interval of at least 24 hours in between -- before
your stone is properly sealed. Now, do you really think that you fabricator
is going to come back to your house every day until the job is done?!
... Dream on! To remove the stain you have now, I really don't know.
It all depends from its real nature. Try with Hydrogen Peroxide first.
Ciao and good luck, Maurizio, Expert Panelist |
Q
4095: The information
you share is invaluable! Please don't stop reading when I state that
my question involves water marks and discoloration on Absolute Black
granite. I have read the many other postings regarding it and am pretty
sure that my situation is similar, yet maybe slightly different.
This granite is from India, the kitchen counter tops were fabricated
and had an Italian Craftsman polish applied prior to installation.
They were fine for a month or so. Water marks and discolorations began
appearing. Black Wax was applied. Other sealers were applied. The
island top was
replaced, supposedly this new island top had no chemicals or sealers
applied to it. After a short while, all tops - island included - continued
to show water marks. We have experimented with a piece of this Absolute
Black, trying to get it to stain or mark, unsuccessfully, (it may
not have had polish or sealer on it, it was from the supplier's stock
yard), and have used the recommended paint stripper on it and seemed
not to get anything 'off' the top, no hint of coloring etc. Someone
has suggested bleach be tried. I am wondering if under these circumstances,
you
1) still recommend Mythelene Chloride be applied to the tops -or-
2) suggest we consider trying oxalic acid and a polisher as you recommended
in a response to someone else
3) approve of Pamir's Black Wax being applied if the resulting color
is
less than desirable
Your advice will be very much appreciated..... and followed! Kris,
Nov2. Reply
|
| R1: Dear
Kris: Some mess, huh! You claim that you read several of my previous
postings, but it looks to me like you didn't learn much from them!
:-) One application of one gunk after and on top of another, to eliminate
a problem that was created by gunk to begin with! Then you get a scrap
from the yard, with nothing on it, and ... miracle! No problems with
that one! Get rid of all the gunk and be happy thereafter! Considering
all the different layers of garbage sitting on your stone, probably
the Oxalic Acid with a buffer will be the better and final solution.
But you'd better know how to use it, though! If you need additional
assistance, gimme a holler at: info@findstone.com.
Ciao and good luck, Maurizio, Expert Panelist |
Q
4094: 1)Is it considered
standard and acceptable practice to place a solid stone but seam over
a dishwasher in a kitchen installation?
2) What are the general and expected visual characteristics of Jerusalem
Gold Limestone. Is the color fairly consistent? Joni, Nov2.
Reply |
| R1: Dear
Joni: In the stone industry there are no standards. Yes, usually the
color is fairly consistent. Now, remember, when it comes to natural
stone, maintenance is an all too important yet neglected subject that
should begin before you even select it, as you can tell from several
of this very site's postings! Don't become another statistic! To get
my thorough and in-depth maintenance guidelines for residential stone
installations gimme a holler at: info@findstone.com.
You'll be glad you did! Ciao and good luck, Maurizio, Expert Panelist |
| Q
4093: Supporting
raised granite countertop (as breakfest bar) how do I know if I have
sufficiently supported my granite slab when I am cantilevering it
over and away from my countertop? approximately 16" overhang.
Appreciate any advice on this project, Michelle, Nov2.
Reply |
| Q
4092: I read most
of your site and found it quite informative. Can you tell me what
the best cleaner is for hard water damage on grout that is used for
tumbled marble? The marble is fine and has mostly held it's original
look but the grout has white hard water stains. I am afraid to use
anything for hard water as it might damage the marble. Help..please
Gary, Nov1. Reply |
| R1:
Dear Gary: You don't have a cleaning problem,
alas. You have a structural problem. Get your contractor back and
solve the problem. If they can't, then gimme a holler at: info@findstone.com
Ciao and good luck, Maurizio Bertoli, Expert Panelist |
| Q
4091: I have a
few questions regarding my "granite" selection for my kitchen
counters. The three that I like most are NEW VENETIAN GOLD, VERDE
BUTTERFLY, and SILVER SEA GREEN (the first being the most preferred
and so on). First, what is the difference between sealers and impregnators
and which is best, b/c I have received varying opinions on the two?
Second, since the New Venetian Gold is my most preferred stone (and
the lightest in color), I have a concern that the sealing/impregnating
may alter the stone's coloring--is this the case? Does this particular
stone even need to be sealed (I am an avid cook and the stone will
be getting a lot of use; however, I am now building the house and
thus have no stone on which to perform your test)? Lastly, if you
could give me your opinions on the three stone choices as far as which
you think would be the best choice, I'd apprecite it greatly. They
are all similarly priced by my supplier/fabricator, so that carries
no weight in this decision. Verde Butterfly is a very close second
and may be the best choice, but I like the New Venetian Gold b/c of
its lighter color--anyhow, tell me what you think is best and necessary.
I look forward to you response/help. Thanks a lot. Kevin, Nov1.
Reply |
| R1:
Dear Kevin: If you cook a lot, unless the slab
of the "New Venetian Gold" had been resined by the factory,
you do not want that stone in your kitchen. It is in my list of borderline
"granites", but when I hear that the owner will be doing
a lot of cooking, it immediately crosses the line! "Verde Butterfly",
is, very definitely, "your man"! Now, remember, when it
comes to natural stone, maintenance is an all too important yet neglected
subject that should begin before you even select it, as you can tell
from several of this very site's postings! Don't become another statistic!
To get my thorough and in-depth maintenance guidelines for residential
stone installations gimme a holler at: info@findstone.com.
You'll be glad you did! Ciao and good luck, Maurizio, Expert Panelist
|
| Q
4090: I am working
for a company that is new and we are trying to find out how to make
cultured marble tile. We are trying to find out the ingredients and
formula's on how to produce it. We have a cultured marble machine,
we need to know what the formula is. We know that you have to have
calcium carbonate, resin, and MEK. I am trying to find out the mixture
and the percent of each.,Ray,
Nov1. Reply |
| Q
4089: We have just
installed granite counter tops called Indian Nevada.....the granite
looks a bit dull...what can I use to polish and clean it....must I
oil it....if so what oil....also the installer made a mistake in the
cutting and there was a small piece chipped out where there is a join....he
has patched it but it is very noticeable and in a prominent area....could
you please advise me what to do...thank-you. Val , Nov1.
Reply |
| R1:
Dear Val:
I have no comment about your "Indian Nevada" "granite"
(never heard of it). If it's not polished to a high shine it could
be that the stone doesn't take a high polish, or that it was not polished
properly at the factory. No matter what, there's nothing you can do
about it now. PLEASE, DO not oil it!! About the small chip not repaired
properly, get your fabricator's butt back into your house and have
them fix it properly. Now, remember, when it comes to natural stone,
maintenance is an all too important yet neglected subject that should
begin before you even select it, as you can tell from several of this
very site's postings! Don't become another statistic! To get my thorough
and in-depth maintenance guidelines for residential stone installations
gimme a holler at: info@findstone.com.
You'll be glad you did! Ciao and good luck, Maurizio, Expert Panelist |
Q
4088: Need info
in sandstone around the Liverpool (England)
1 were it has come from
2 types of cements that will be present
3 is there any other material around and why was it not used, Jaysons,
Nov1. Reply |
| R1: Dear
Jaysons, firstly the most famous stone from the Liverpool area is
Woolton a dull red sandstone. The quarry was opened to build the Anglican
cathedral and was kept open until it's completion over a hundred years
later. My father informs me in common with many other buildings it
was built with 3-1 sharp sand slaked lime. Portland cement was almost
certainly used later. The most abundant stone used in Liverpool is
York sandstone. Yorkshire is the most productive sandstone area in
the UK and being reasonably close to Merseyside it was probably most
cost effective to use, I don't know how many types of York were used
in Liverpool but it's probably in the hundreds. There were other stone
producers in Cheshire for example but I can only guess (correct me
if I am wrong) that in the main the were not as competitive as those
in Yorkshire. There are some prestigious buildings that have used
Portland limestone. Hope this helps. Bryan UK |
| Q
4087: I am currently
deciding between Dakota Mahogany and Swedish Mahogany for a kitchen
island. I've been told by the sales rep that Swedish Mahogany is a
tough sell because most if not all the slabs she has seen have fist-sized
black spots on it. I've asked to see a slab and will be returning
shortly to view. That said, which in your opinion would be a better
choice? I am somewhat concerned about pitting and staining. Would
either one need an impregnator-type sealer? Thanks! Doug, Nov1.
Reply
|
| R1:
Dear Doug: I have no comments about
the "fist-sized black spots" on Swedish Mahogany. Maybe
you like them! For the rest, I wrote a very interesting article on
"How to Shop for a Kitchen Countertop" that will give you
all the intelligence you need to venture yourself with confidence
in the stone industry jungle! Gimme a holler at: info@findstone.com.
You'll be glad you did! You can also ask me how to get my comprehensive
maintenance guidelines on residential stone installations. Remember,
when it comes to natural stone, maintenance is an all too important
yet neglected subject that should begin before you even select it,
as you can tell from several of this very site's postings! Don't become
another statistic! Ciao and good luck, Maurizio, Expert Panelist |
| R2: Dear
Doug, SWEDISH MAHOGANY and DAKOTA MAHOGANY are very similar, very
good materials with similar characteristics. They do not need a sealer.
Daniel, Slovakia, Expert Panelist. |
| Q
4086: Thank you
first of all for the opportunity to find solutions through your website.
I want to use non-polished slate (12x12) in a large shower area and
some say it's fine and some say that it has potential for cutting
the feet. Can you help? Elaine,Nov1. Reply
|
| R1:
Dear
Elaine: For starters, there's no such an animal like polished slate.
Anyway, it won't cut your feet (that's ridiculous!!), but you will
have all sorts of other problems related to its maintenance. I wouldn't
consider slate, if I were you. Ciao and good luck, Maurizio, Expert
Panelist |
| Q
4085: I am considering
purchasing Travertine stone flooring for my bathrooms and kitchen.
I noticed (in reviewing your website) that travertine doesn’t
require sealing due to its water resistant nature. However, I would
like to fill the holes with a clear filling agent to make cleaning
and maintaining the tiles an easier task. Do you sell a product or
can recommend one that will work well for this application? Will polyester
resins or epoxy work?? Thanks for your help
and thanks for a GREAT website..!!! Chris, Nov1.
Reply
|
| R1: Dear
Chris: First off. I must assume that you're talking about honed and
unfilled travertine. That said, you do NOT want to do that job yourself!!
Filling travertine implies re-grinding and re-honing of the stone
surface after the filling. Epoxy filler -- whether clear of colored
to match -- would be very good, but it requires a proven professional,
it's going to stink your whole house, and it's going to be quite costly.
Filler for travertine will do just fine. Now, remember, when it comes
to natural stone, maintenance is an all too important yet neglected
subject that should begin before you even select it, as you can tell
from several of this very site's postings! Don't become another statistic!
To get my thorough and in-depth maintenance guidelines for residential
stone installations gimme a holler at: info@findstone.com.
You'll be glad you did! Ciao and good luck, Maurizio, Expert Panelist |
| Q
4084: Hello there.
I've been carving wood now for a couple of years and I just got hooked
on carving soapstone and alabaster this past year . I'm very much
interested in carving limestone ! Where would be a place for good
quality limestone thats close to home in missouri that I can purchase?
Would you also know of any books on carving /sculpting limestone?
thank you so much! Chiefdar,
Nov1. Reply
|
| R1: Dear
Chiefdar, Southern Indiana is the home of many quarries in one of
the preferred carving limestones. In the area around Bedford / Bloomington
you should be able to find what you are looking for in a mill "bone
yard". If that is not close enough to you, I'm sure there are
local limestones in Missouri that are quarried for building purposes:
check with a local stoneyard or masonry supply house. As for books,
a good one is "contemporary stone sculpture" by Donna Meilach.
Good luck, JVC, Expert Panelist |
| Q
4083: With all the appreciations
for the great information your site gave to me,i need some information
about the price of a kind of Iranian travertine called ATASH KOOH
I will be thankful if you give me the information sincerely your`s,
Reza, Nov1.
Reply
|
R1:
ATASH KOOH IS THE CREAMY TRAVERTINE VERY BEAUTIFULL
AND AVAILABE
ON TILS .305X305,400X400,450X450 AND SLABS MIN 1000X2000 MM. AWAIT
YOUR DETAILED INQUIRY |
| Q
4082: I have marble
countertops in the kitchen. Some vinegar got on the counters and where
it sat for more than 5 minutes we have a light spot. I believe that
it is the sealer that got discolored (might be polyurethane). What
is the best way to get rid of these and bring the normal shine back.Craig,
Nov1. Reply
|
R1: Dear
Craig: The vinegar didn't need 5 minutes: it would have done the "job"
in 10 second flat! What you believe about the sealer is, of course,
wrong. Even if your stone had beed sealed with a sealer for stone
(a.k.a. "Impregnators", which are below surface sealers)
you would have had the same result. There's no polyhurethane or other
stuff like that on your marble: it's bare stone. The real problem
resides precisely in your opening statement: "I have marble countertops
in the kitchen". You shouldn't, that's all. Now, to repair the
etch mark made by the vinegar on your stone surface you
will need a professional stone refinisher. Now, be very, VERY cautious
and do NOT take chances. Unfortunately there are lots of quacks out
there (including the genius who went along and sold you polished marble
for a kitchen countertop)! I wrote a very comprehensive article titled
"How to Shop for a bona fide Stone Restoration Contractor"
that will give you all the intelligence you need to tell a champ from
a chomp! Gimme a holler at: info@findstone.com.
For your stone's sake, you'll be glad you did! You can also ask me
how to get my comprehensive maintenance guidelines on residential
stone installations. Remember, when it comes to natural stone, maintenance
is an all too important yet neglected subject that should begin before
you even select it, as you can tell from several of this very site's
postings! Don't become another statistic! Ciao and good luck, Maurizio,
Expert Panelist |
| A 1390: I noticed that
you seem to have a lot of information about the wear and care of limestone.
What do you know about Bulgarian white
and yellow limestone
and would you recommend it for use in a formal entryway? How soon
would it begin to turn black from regular footstep traffic? Also do
you know anything about Antique Blanc Rose and how practical that
would be for a kitchen application -just looking at it makes you wonder
how you clean it? Rachel, Jan 30. Reply |
| R1:
Dear Rachel: I don't know the first thing about
those Bulgarian limestone. Generally speaking I always encourage people
to stay away from limestone, but then, this is just a general suggestion.
What I do know for sure, however, is the you do NOT want Antique Blanc
Rose in your kitchen floor!! (unless, of course, you're kitchen is
going to be only some sort of show-place!). Maurizio, USA |
| I
would really appreciate your opinion on whether Antique Blanc Rose
would be the right choice for a kitchen floor. Supposedly it is a
hand made cooked stone that is over 100 years old salvaged from the
South of France. Have you any experience with this stone? Rachel |
| Dear Rachel:
I already answered your questions, didn't I? I repeat, I don't know
the first thing about those two limestone. Nor I care to know. Just
because they are limestone, I don't like them already! No limestone
will ever find its way inside my house, and the same principle applies
to Antique Blanc Rose, despite the impressiveness of the name!
Maurizio, USA |
| A 1384: What do you
know about Bulgarian white and yellow limestone for usage in a
formal hallway? Also what information can you share about Antique
Blanc Rose for usage on a kitchen floor? I am interested in how you
clean and maintain these floors? I am also wondering about the usage
of the Antique Blanc Rose? Rachel, Jan 28, Reply |
| R3:
Dear Rachel: If you
ask me, cleaning that floor wouldn't be a problem: a good clean mop
with a solution of water and a stone detergent (NOT a stone soap).
The real problem will be represented by the removal of all the stains
that you will eventually be getting, no matter how well you're going
to have that stone sealed, even if the contractor uses the "Seal-all"
impregnator made by the "Bestest" company. Maurizio, USA. |
| R2:
Hi Rachel , limestone
is absorbent. You can clean with a stiff hand brush and a cleaning
agent. Wet dry brush sparingly. Do not create a puddle with the sealer.
Always do a sample first. John, USA. |
| R1:
Dear Rachel, the name
for Bulgarian limestone is VRATZA. It has been used for years in our
country. It is suitable for floor because of its pleasant color, stability,
but after some time, it is difficult to remove dirt from surface from
its filled pores. ANTIQUE BLANC ROSE is French type of terracotta.
Daniel, Slovakia |
Thank
you for your prompt response to my questions regarding Bulgarian Limestone.
How would you remove the dirt from the filled pores -is it a complicated
operation requiring professional cleaners or could you clean it by
yourself with what cleanser? Does it require a "sealer" and what type
would you recommend. How porous or absorbent is this stone? I thank
you for taking the time to answer these questions. Rachel, Jan 29. |
| Thank
you for your prompt response regarding Bulgarian Limestone. You mentioned
that dirt would have to be cleaned from time to time from filled pores.
Are you referring to professional machine cleaning -or can it be maintained
for a reasonable period of time through home cleaning methods. Should
this stone be sealed and would you have any information on what type
of sealer. Also, what do you think about the maintenance of Antique
Blanc Rose on a Kitchen Floor. Is it at all cleanable or practical?
I appreciate your time and expertise, Rachel |
| Dear Rachel,
excuse me I am not an expert for stone maintenance and use of terracotta.
I can only say, that in my university the floors have been from Vratza
limestone for over 20 years. Pores are filled by dirt. The floors
were not cleaned by special technics or chemicals. Maybe other expert
will advice you. Daniel, Slovakia. |
| Q2364: I recently tried to clean
my marble floor with phosphorous acid and doing a good job until
I spilled some of the acid on the floor from the bottle. Is
there a way to bring the shine back on the Marble? Aug 1, Reply |
| R1: Dear ???:
I have this theory (and, please correct me if I am wrong): Anonymous
people not only are they rude, but they are idiots, too. Case in point:
cleaning polished marble with an acid! Ciao and good luck, Maurizio,
USA, Expert Panelist. |
| A
1119: I need some help with some words I hope you can
take the time to help me : Delippage, grinding, honing, flaming,
tumbling, satin, polishing, crystallization, buffing compounds,
impregnators, color enhancers,and topical coating. USA, Oct
3. Reply |
| |
R1:
Here they are!
Delippage: A grinding action aiming at eliminating "lips"
from a poorly executed installation, a "lip" being a difference
in level where two tiles meet. The industry standard of acceptability
of a "lip" is 1/32" Grinding: An aggressive frictioning action
implemented with very coarse tools and material aiming at reducing
the thickness of a given piece of stone.
Honing: It's grinding with gloves! It's still grinding,
but with much less aggressive tools and material, which is meant
to eliminate scratch patterns from a stone surface, without
producing additional ones (at least very visible). There are
several degrees of honing; Low hone, when the final result is
a smooth surface without any reflection whatsoever. Medium hone,
when there's a slight reflection from a low angle point of view;
high hone, when it's almost polished. Medium hone and high hone
-- according with different types of stone -- are also referred
to as "Satin finish".
Flaming: Is a particular process that aims at tempering
the surface of a slab of granite (or marble). The procedure
is usually implemented on a very rough surface, and is carried
out by alternating the action of a very powerful torch, with
cold water from a hose. The operator actually holds a torch
with one hand and the hose with the other.
Tumbling:
It's a process by which rough pieces of stone (usually precut
to a determined size) are put inside an asymmetrically turning
barrel (or drum, or tumble), together with some harder materials,
usually, stones. The process -- that goes on for several hours
-- produces a rough, yet scratch-free finish, and it also creates
chips along the edges of the pieces of stone (that get smoothed
out by the tumbling action), giving a final look as if the stone
had been used for centuries.
Polishing: Is the extremely fine abrasive action -- that
follows the honing phase -- that will produce a gloss as high
as the stone at hand can show. It can be implemented with specialty
powders, or with manmade "brick" (same abrasive powders cemented
together with some sort of resin). The most popular powders
for polishing stone are aluminum oxide, or tin oxide.
Crystallization: It's a marketing term to describe what
turns out to be a make-believe polishing procedure for calcite-based
stones. It's designed for operators with no previous experience,
who would like to learn how to polish marble, but think it's
too difficult. The process is a chemical approach which is meant
to actually destroy the crystals of Calcium Carbonate on the
surface of the stone by means of a strong acid (typically fluoridric
acid), so that some other shining agents (mostly waxes) can
bond to it.
Buffing compound: it’s a mix a polishing powders. Some times
it can be found in a cream or paste form.
Impregnator: it's a below surface, penetrating sealer
meant to clog the pores of the stone, so that it will not absorb
staining substances.
Color enhancer: It's mostly mineral oil (of the type
that doesn't evaporate), that's absorbed by the stone and gives
it a so called "wet look". It's very popular with tumbled marble.
Most color enhancers are impregnators, too.
Topical coating: It’s a coating that's applied to any
surface for protection purposes. In the case of a floor it could
be a wax. In the case of a hardwood floor it could be polyurethane,
etc.
Ciao, Maurizio, USA
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