| Q
6790: Hi,
we have a black slate shower that we put impregnator sealer on because
that is what the stone store people told us to do. Everything was
fine for awhile but now when it dries (and even when it is wet in
a few places) there are white, hazy , cloudy areas, mostly on the
floor part. We have hard water so my husband thinks it might be calcium.
What can we do? I asked the stone store people if it was okay to use
black slate in a shower and they said yes. I know Maurizio is going
to blast me for choosing it but we really didn't know any better than
what we were told. Pleeeeese help. Sincerely, Tammy Cleaveland,
May 31,
Reply |
| R1:
Dear Tammy: Well, if there was a solution to the problems related
to slate I wouldn’t be so much against it, would I?! :-) However,
I don’t believe in the hard-water theory. I’m afraid that
you have water under those tiles and the whitish “deposit”
you’re reporting about is nothing but efflorescence. If that’s
the case, it is bad news. You will have to rip out that floor. The
good news is that it would be the perfect excuse for you to get rid
of slate in the shower! Hey, it’s only money!! :-) Ciao and good
luck, Maurizio, Expert Panelist |
| Q
6789: You
mentioned in one of your responses that your favorite sealer is the
ester-epoxy based type. Is your own sealer that type? Or where would
I find it? Which brands? Thanks! Daria, May
31, Reply |
| R1:
Dear Daria: It must have been a very old response. Thing evolve all
the time. Now the best impregnator/sealers on the market are based
on Fluorocarbon Alphatic resins. It is not that such type of resins
is so much better than Ester Epoxy, but they allow making the product
water-based instead of solvent-based. Considering the new regulations
about VOC, it’s a big plus. My MB-4 is now based on fluorocarbon
alphatic resin. Maurizio, Expert Panelist |
| Q
6788: Is
it a "one-of-a-kind" color...what is the durability in bathroom
vanity application 18" x 30" plus backsplash?Or, do the
tones in the marble called "rojo" vary?Charlie, May
31, Reply |
| R1:
Dear Charlie: If you follow sound maintenance guidelines, you would
be getting many years of enjoyment out of your vanity top.Yes, of
course, like in any other marble there the tones of the color may
vary.Maurizio, Expert Panelist |
| Q
6787: I
have a marble top cafe table that I used outside for one summer. The
marble lost all its glossy sheen. How can I clean and restore the
marble? Also, I want to use the table outside again this summer. Will
a felt lined plastic cover over the marble top protect the restored
finish? If not, I will not use the table outside. Thank you! Linda,
May 31,
Reply |
| R1:
Dear Linda: To restore your table top you need a bona fide stone refinisher.
It is not a DIY project by a long shot. Once the table is restored,
your idea of the felt-lined plastic cover will work. It’s the
rain that kills the finish of the stone. It could also very well be
the wrong cleaning product. You should be using my outlandish MB-5
in conjunction with MB-13 which are available in the Consumer Products
section of my website listed below :-) Ciao and good luck, Maurizio,
Expert Panelist |
Q
6786: We
just had our counters installed in Labrador Antique granite. Our builder
charged us at least $40 s.f. for fabrication/installation. Although
told the seam would be under the sink it was installed with a very
noticeable seam about 16” from the undermount. It appears to
be about about 1/8th of an inch wide and is very uneven. It is also
in a highly seen/used area of the kitchen. I do not want to be picky,
but do not want to be ripped off. Also the cutting measurements were
off at least an inch on the end of the countertop that angles into
the wall. That is not readily noticeable unless you run your hand
under it. One last thing, the beveled edges are inconsistent in gloss
level where some appear dull. It looks like a job done with inferior
tools to me, but I’m far from an expert. Any advice will help!
Sandra, May
31, Reply |
| R1:
Dear Sandra: Going exclusively by your report, it looks like you either
got “Michelangelo” himself, or his brother! Seaming by the
sink is wrong (those areas should be rodded), but 1/8” gap is
way too much. Poor edge finishing is not acceptable, either. Try to
work things out with your fabricator. Maurizio, Expert Panelist |
| Q
6785: I
am in New Jersey. We just got two cracks on the thins area in front
of the cooktop. Is there a way t find someone to repair it? Thank
you. May
31, Reply |
| R1:
Dear “in New Jersey”: It’s very “iffy.”
It’s the fabricator responsibility. Those narrow areas should
have been rodded. Ciao and good luck, Maurizio, Expert Panelist |
| Q
6784: We
bought a house where the water has a lot of particulate matter in
it and have a problem with the black granite on our kitchen counters.
When we replaced the kitchen faucet we found a white stain and there
seem to be some tiny pits around the area where the escutchen of the
old faucet was. I've tried marble cleaner, ammonia, and some other
cleaners and scraping it (suggested by a local granite installer)
without success. Can you suggest a method for cleaning it? Thanks,
Sandra, May
31, Reply |
| R1:
Dear Sandra: The suggestion given to you to try to scrape it off by
a local installer is a good one indeed. Did you use a razor blade?
Did you press hard enough? It may not do the job 100%, but it should
get you on the way. After that you will finish up with a little bit
of “Lyme-a-way.” (Spelling?) It’s available at any
supermarket. Use it sparingly and don’t make it into a regular
cleaning procedure. Maurizio, Expert Panelist |
| Q
6783: I
am currently building a new home in Houston, Texas and I am very confused
about granite countertops. I would like to put Tropical Brown Granite
in the kitchen but I am very confused about it durability and maintenance.
Does this need to be sealed and if so, how! How do I maintain it?
Daily cleaners etc.? What about potential problems. I really don’t
want to make a mistake. Any and all advice would be greatly appreciated.
On another note, your name looks Italian. Are you Italian? My cousin
in Italy has the same name and this is the first time I have heard
your name here in the states!! Sincerely, Carla, May
31, Reply |
| R1:
Dear Carla: Oh, I’m Italian all right! I moved to this wonderful
country from my native Parma when I was 37 already, back in 1981.
(At the time I didn’t speak a word of English, and neither did
my wife and our two sons.) Having said that, and back to your query,
generally speaking Baltic Brown is a good choice. But there could
be variables involved, including the people who will be processing
it! That is why I seldom make final statements about any one particular
stone. There may be differences within the same stone (and I’m
not talking about looks, here!) from one bundle of slabs and the next.
The slabs may have also been either “doctored” (which is
bad), or “resined” (which could be good) by the factory,
which would make a big difference. Even more important, what’s
a good stone in the hands of some “Michelangelo”?! Maurizio,
Expert Panelist |
| R2:
Ciao
Maurizio! Tropic Brown is a great choice too! :) Regards Adriana |
| Q
6782: I
have a polished porcelain floor with 6 month old grout haze in several
places. Is there anything that will remove the grout haze after that
length of time? Thanks in advance for your advice. May
31, Reply
|
| R1:
Dear Catherine: If it is epoxy grout, then, yes it can be removed
quite easily. You will need a paint stripper based on Methylene Chloride.
Nasty stuff! Thoroughly follow every precautionary direction and warning
printed on the container. Ciao and good luck, Maurizio, Expert Panelist |
Q
6781: Ok,
I am trying to figure out a problem and by process of elimination
and if this is possible, I am down to putting the blame on the sealant
that was used in our travertine shower. We have noticed that during
hot showers that a burning sensation in our throats and eyes becomes
so overwhelming that we cut our shower time down just to get out and
ventilate the bathroom. I have thrown out body scrubbers, changed
shaving creams, soaps and shampoos and cleaned and scrubbed the shower
down well with plain water. Do you have any idea what could be causing
this? The only other elements we have in our shower is a fixed glass
block window, granite windowsill, and granite shelving and seat. The
rest of the bathroom is done with travertine flooring and granite
tub deck for the jacuzzi. We have two shower heads and when both are
being used creating more steam the worse the odor seems to get. This
bathroom is brand new as of last year and this has been happening
from the start.Your thoughts on this subject will be greatly appreciated.
- Thank you - Paula, May 31, Reply |
| R1:
Dear Paula: While I do consider the application of an impregnator/sealer
on a travertine shower stall a futile exercise, I never heard of an
impregnator/sealer that produces such a pungent odor after having
properly cured. The resin contained in most impregnator/sealers for
stone are totally inert and odorless once cured (48 hours, 72 tops).
Having said that, I must admit that I am at a total loss on this one.
I never heard of such a thing before. Ciao and good luck, Maurizio,
Expert Panelist |
| R2:
I
would have my water supply tested or perhaps the hot water tank |
| Q
6780: I
recently Tan Brown granite installed in my kitchen the retailer said
to seal the installer said not to seal it. Who's right and why. Ron,
May 31,
Reply |
| R1:
Ear
Ron: Don’t trust anybody!! :-) Spill some water on your countertop
and let it sit for a few minutes. Wipe it dry and see if the area
on top of which the water has been sitting has become (temporarily)
dark. If the answer is yes, then you will seal your countertop wit
my outlandish MB-4. If the answer is no, then will not do it! Easy
enough? :-) Now, remember, it’s never too early to think about
the proper maintenance of your stone. It’s a subject that’s
all too often neglected and, as you can tell by reading many of this
site’s postings, you’re not likely to get good information
about it from your dealer or installer. Don’t become another
statistic! Maurizio, Expert Panelist |
| Q
6779: I
have a slab of marble(39" X 49-1/2") that is supposedly
over 100 years old which came off a building in Houston, Texas. It
has been in our family and been used as a picnic table for at least
60 years. I am trying to find out how to polish and seal the surface.
I would appreciate any help you can give me.Thank you, Debbie,
May 31,
Reply |
| R1:
Dear Debbie: There is only one possible solution: get hold of a reputable
stone restoration contractor in your area who will proceed to re-grind
and re-polish your marble table top, Maurizio, Expert Panelist |
| Q
6778: I
just cleaned my brand new marble shower with bathroom cleaner. Now
the marble has white streaks all over it and is very dull. Please
tell me what I can do to fix it. May
31, Reply |
R1:
Dear Mary: You said it! There’s nothing that you can do about
it. All you have to do is to hire a professional stone refinisher
who will have to hone and polish your marble tiles. And, BTW, don’t
forget to send a heartfelt thank-you note to the knowledgeable merchant
who sold the marble to you without telling you how to take care of
it.
Talking about which, once your shower stall is restored to its original
condition, you’d better get some solid information about it’s
maintenance requirements. Maurizio, Expert Panelist |
| Q
6778: we
are having a gas fireplace installed and we are building the raised
platform, our question is if the fireplace can go directly on top
of a laminate floating floor, or if this would damage the floor or
make it buckle. We don't know if we have to remove the floor where
the fireplace will sit.
May 31, Reply |
| R1:
Dear
Jeff: If I had the faintest idea of what a “floating floor”
is I may be able to answer your question … Maurizio, Expert Panelist
|
| Q
6777: I
just had coste esmeralda granite countertops installed. I am greatly
disappointed as the light green color never appears clean. It looks
as if the surface is smeared and this smear is at surface level. I
spoke to another installer who said he never installs this color in
kitchens due to this problem. Is this true? Jim,
May 31, Reply
|
| R1:
Dear Jim: Yes, it is true. But that is only one of the reasons, the
other one being that it scratches easily. Costa Esmeralda is a weird
stone from Iran of unknown geological classification – which
makes it the perfect candidate to be labeled as “granite!”
When they don’t know how to call a stone that doesn’t look
like marble they call it granite, no matter what the heck it is! And
the show goes on! (Hey, nobody is doing anything about it!... Consumers
mumble a little when they realize that they were taken, but that’s
the end of it. Besides, the invoice of the distributor does say it
is granite!!!) Maurizio, Expert Panelist |
| R2:
Remove
the laminate floor where the fireplace is going. JVC |
| Q
6776: I
have a 4ftx4ft coffee table that has a beige/peach, fine grained,
granite top with too much of a peach overtone. Is it possible for
me to purposely soak some taupe or mud colored stain into the top
and finish it off by sealing the tint with a top sealer? I ask this
question because the granite counters in my last house would, after
a few hours, soak up the water at the bottom of a drinking and turn
a little darker, only to evaporate and lighten up later. It seems
I should be able to soak some taupe/mud colored stain on the coffee
table top, correct? What type of stain (oil/water-based, or???) would
you suggest? Any hints would be appreciated! Thanks, Richard,
May 31,
Reply
|
| R1:
Dear Rich: To the best of my knowledge, no, it can’t. I never
heard of a stain for stone, and if you think that you can solve your
problem with some Minwax sort of product, I highly doubt that it will
work properly. If it won’t you will have ruined your stone for
good. , Maurizio, Expert Panelist |
| Q
6775: I
had black galaxy granite 16X16 tiles installed in the entranceway
of my gift shop almost 1 year ago. They have become dull and have
lot their sheen. What is the proper way to clean these tiles and polish
them to the beautiful shine they had when first installed? I appreciate
any help you can give me.. Thank you so much, Cathy, May 31, Reply
|
R1:
Dear Cathy: First the good news: if your black Galaxy tiles have become
dull in less than one year it means that you run a very busy business!
:-)
Now the bad news: the reason why they’re not shiny anymore is
because your customers have the nasty habit of … walking on your
floor. The dullness has nothing to do with cleaning or lack thereof.
It’s rather the summation of billions of little tiny scratches
generated by foot traffic, which actually ground the very surface
of your stone. Natural stone is not polished by applying some sort
of “special” sealer and then buffing it up, but by abrasion
and friction – like gemstone. In other words, your floor needs
to be re-ground, honed and polished.
Why is it such a bad news? First, because it won’t be easy to
find someone who’s able to do it. Second, you’ve got to
be ready to listen to numbers in the range of $15.00 per square foot,
give or take it. :-( Ciao and good luck, Maurizio, Expert Panelist |
| Q
6774: I
wanted to know about the hardness and porosity of Indian marble called
Majoli (from RK Marble known as RK's wonder marble (Monsoon pearl)).
I wish to know whether it can be laid in kitchen, whether staining
will occur? Is it a hard marble compared to other India marble? What
does this hardness actually refers to? Thanks, Nisha, May
31, Reply |
| Q
6773: My
tile granite counter tops are sticky feeling. Do they need a good
cleaning and with what and do they need to be sealed ? Jerry,
May 31,
Reply |
| R1:
Dear Jerry: Well, I guess that they do need a good cleaning! I would
start out with some of my fabulous MB-3 to get rid of whatever sticky
gunk is sitting on your stone surface, followed by regular use of
my universally renowned MB-5! As for the sealing issue, it all depends
on the “granite.” Spill some water onto one of the tiles,
let it sit there for a few minutes, wipe it dry and see if the area
under which the water has been sitting has become any darker over
the rest of the tile. If so, then you will impregnate your stone with
my outlandish MB-4. If not, don’t bother! Maurizio, Expert Panelist |
| Q
6772: I
haveTravertine table finished in a gloss lacquer.We have removed stains
from table and now find it needs re lacquering please advise on what
to use Don, May
29, Reply |
| R1:
Dear Don: I’m at a loss, here. If your travertine table was laquered,
how come you’ve got stains? What kind of stains are you talking
about? How did you remove the stains to the point of removing the
laquer? Maurizio, Expert Panelist |
| Q
6771: WE
JUST MOVED INTO OUR NEW HOME. THE BUYER HAS PUT IN WALL TO WALL TRAVERTINE.
I LOVE IT BUT AFTER ONLY BEING THERE FOR A WEEK, I NOTICED A FEW POT
HOLES BEGINING TO DEVELOP, IT SEEMS TO BE WHERE THE STONE IS WEEK.
HOW DO I FILL THESE POT HOLES THAT STARTED OUT DIME SIZE NOW ARE THE
SIZE OF NICKELS. HELP PLEASE, BEFOR IT GETS WORSE. May
29, Reply |
| R1:
Dear Sandee: Nickels and dimes?… And you’re making all this
trouble over some pocket change??!!! :-) Joking aside, I know exactly
what your problem is and I have all the answers for you. There’s
a little $25.00 consultation fee involved, but I’ll be glad to
help. Ciao and good luck, Maurizio, Expert Panelist |
| Q
6770: My
designer picked out a beautiful limestone for our kitchen floors.
But I was just on your site and saw that you don't recommend it. I
have two young children and am worried about maintenance and stains.
I can cancel the order. Should I? What ceramic tiles have the look
of limestone? Thanks, Adrienne, May
29, Reply |
| R1:
Dear Adrienne: Well, you can keep the limestone, for as long as you
get into an iron-clad written agreement with your interior decorator
by which he or she will personally take care of all the problems that
will arise with that material. That would be real nice: who knows,
there would be a remote chance that he or she will stop playing with
colors and start using some intelligence while specifying stuff they
don’t know the first thing about for their customers.I don’t
know about ceramic, but there are porcelain tiles that look lime limestone,
sandstone … just incredible! Maurizio, Expert Panelist |
| Q
6769: We
have Impala Black granite kitchen countertops. Can you give me some
info on Impala Black? Was this a good choice for kitchen countertops,
does it need to be sealed, daily care, cleaners etc.? The countertops
have dull spots or areas that have been there from the beginning.
Is this normal? Is there a remedy? Thanks in advanced for any info
you can give. May
29, Reply |
| R1:
Dear
Joel, Typically Impala Black does not need to be sealed, and it is
a good choice for a granite countertop. About your dull spots, no,
it’s not normal, but you have to be more descriptive to me about
them. Maurizio, Expert Panelist |
| Q
6768: I
have just had installed "Artic Blue" granite from Norway
- on kitchen countertops. The fabricator advised us to seal it once
a year. Please tell me the do's and don'ts of daily maintainenance
and care of this granite. Richard, May
29, Reply |
| R1:
Dear Richard: You must understand one thing: most fabricators (not
all of them, fortunately) have been put through a lengthy yet very
effective process, by which massif doses of impregnator/sealers have
been applied to their brains by various “salesmen”, not
before having washed them (the brains) with the notion that they have
to seal everything in sight that doesn’t move. And if it moves,
wait ‘till it dies, and then seal that, too!! :-) You do NOT
want to seal Baltic Blue. Not once, not ever. It’s not granite
by a long shot: is anorthosite, for crying out loud!! Maurizio, Expert
Panelist |
| Q
6767: I
had to buy a 13-foot by 6-foot, 5/4-inch slab of nero assoluto to
fabricate a 7-foot-by 4-foot top for a kitchen island. I have a couple
of large pieces left and am considering using it as part of my bathroom
reno as a top for two vanities. I'd like to know the implications
of having the surface honed. My experience with my island suggests
black granite would do just fine in regards to not absorbing water
or leaving ring marks. If I get it honed, will it lose those properties?
Also, I have heard that honed granite scratches very easily. True?
Also, please confirm that nero assoluto does not require sealing,
May 29,
Reply |
| R1:
Dear Steven: About the honed black absolute issue, see the answer
I gave to a previous inquirer a while back that I’m reporting
to you below. Yes, Black Absolute does not require any sealing. However,
there are lots of “bad” slabs of black granite out there
lately (all labeled as “black absolute,” no matter where
they come from. The real Black absolute comes from South Africa).
I hope you ran my little lemon juice test to find out how good the
slab you bought really is. Dear Inquirer: There are indeed different
opinions on the issue of sealing black hone granite, but there is
a unanimous consensus about the fact that it presents maintenance
issues. The problem with honed black granite is that it is not ...
well, black any more! Most black stones are but an optical illusion:
they become black only when highly polished, or when wet. (See the
back of your slab to see the REAL color of your stone!) As you take
gloss off the stone surface (and honing does just that) you lose depth
of color and the stone turns grey, but when you wet it ... here it
is black again! As you spill oily liquids, or you simply touch the
stone surface with your fingers (perspiration), you're going to have
all sorts of dark surface stains that are a terrible eyesore. Please
notice that I said: SURFACE stains, not imbedded stains. In fact,
you can clean those stains off, while if they were imbedded you would
have to poultice them out. If you apply an impregnator/sealer in the
stone you will not solve your problem one bit: in fact the sealer
will only prevent liquids from being absorbed by the stone (which
in the case of black honed granite is an unlikely event to begin with),
not the staining of its surface. Maurizio, Expert Panelist |
| Q
6766: I
need to have my stone floors sealed, but before I do this, I was hoping
to have some repairs completed on two of my tiles that have cracked.
I live in Long Beach, California. Is there a reputable repairer and
sealing company that you know in my area? May
29, Reply |
| R1:
Scrubbing bubbles works on all of that in my house, I do however recommend
easy tricks to maintain material, (i.e. waxing with car polish). If
your shower is mildewing that bad, I would change the enclosure/shower
curtain. Dannille |
R2:
The
problem you describe in all probability is mildew and is caused by
the filler/extender used in the manufacture of your shower enclosure.
The largest majority of such fillers are calcium carbonate based .
Microbes, bacteria, and mildew feed on the calcium carbonate. This
is especially true if the calcium carbonate was formed under the sea
from coral deposits. Had calcium hydroxide been the filler used ,
the problem would not have occurred because the high ph of the filler
would kill off the bacteria and microbes.
Your best solution appears to be scrubbing the areas clean (there
are commercial cleaners out there designed especially for this purpose)
and increasing ventillation to the subject areas and also using a
mechanical dehumidifier to keep the relative humidity level to approximately
40%. Good luck. |
| R2:
I
believe that some types of marbles are actually polished(sort of)
by using a weak (I say WEAK!) acid ) perhaps vinegar even...is the
orange growth simply EXTREMELY hard water stains? Water from a drilled
well? Read the book by the late great John Sinkankas called "Gemstone
and Mineral Formulas"..... |
| Q
6765: We
recently had a new granite counter top installed. It looks like a
variety of river rocks. We have a concern about the seam. It is definitely
very visible and in fact seems to be getting larger. The two pieces
of granite are separating at the seam. We feel that the two slabs
were not correctly installed. Could you please let us know how seams
are usually handled? What may be causing the slabs to separate? And,
any suggestions as to how we can resolve this problem with our contractor?
The gap between the two slabs is large enough that you can see the
base under the granite and food, etc. is starting to accumulate within
the seam. The color of the granite is fairly dark and I read that
the seam in darker granite is usually not as visible as in the lighter
colors. When we even glide our hands over the seam we feel jagged
edges and roughness. A friend of our said that if it was correctly
installed, your hand should glide right over the seam. May
27, Reply
|
| R1:
Dear Kathy: In a nutshell: your friend is absolutely right. Seaming
is one of the issue where you separate the men from the boys. Have
your fabricator come back and demand them to solve the issue. Now,
remember, it’s never too early to think about the proper maintenance
of your stone. It’s a subject that’s all too often neglected
and, as you can tell by reading many of this site’s postings,
you’re not likely to get good information about it from your
dealer or installer. Maurizio, Expert Panelist |
| Q
6764: I
have a new marble shower. What type of cleaner should I use? I have
just been using Murphy’s Oil Soap and water. It was recommended
on their website. Do you have any suggestions? We also have a marble
counter top and floors (the builder went nuts). I love the look but
am scared to death about cleaning it. Any suggestions would be appreciated.
Thank you. Terry, May
26, Reply |
| R1:
Dear Terry: Murphy oil soap to clean a shower stall from soap film,
huh! And “they” have it in “their” website?! Ain’t
it amazing?! Is there a limit to human stupidity?! May I ask who “they”
are?! About your marble countertop, I sincerely hope that you’re
not talking about a kitchen countertop and – if that is the case
– that at least it has a very low-hone finish!, Maurizio, Expert
Panelist |
| Q
6763: Hello,
My contractor is installing a Travertine Floor in my Kitchen, Living
Room, Hallway and Office, but is a bit at a loss as to how to properly
finish it once it is down. There is quite a bit of cloudy residue
left on the tiles. He tried HMK R55, but the tiles do not react consistently.
Some of them clean up nicely with a shine, and others become even
more cloudy. Any advise is GREATLY appreciated! Regards, Brian, Expert
Panelist, May
26, Reply |
| R1:
Dear
Brian: Now, let’s see: the dealer who sold the stone to you made
good money but can’t solve your problem. The tile setter who
installed it in your house made good money out of the deal, but can’t
solve your problem. HMK made some money out of the sale of their product,
but they can’t solve your problem. (You did call their customer
service, didn’t you?) So, basically, everybody made money, at
least one party of that happy bunch created the problem, but nobody
knows what they’re looking at. Isn’t it amazing?! Ciao and
good luck, Maurizio, Expert Panelist |
| Q
6762: I
was browsing through your questions and answers for a way to get off
nail polish and a spot that looks like it always has finger prints
on it the stone is kind of mauve. I am also installing granite counter
tops and they are juprano millennium and noticed your site saying
this is crappy granite or not granite at all can you help me before
I purchase? thank you, krissy, May
26, Reply |
| R1:
Dear Krissy: Well, Juparanas “granite” never made my ten
top list, I can tell you that! If you’re lucky and get a high-grade
slab and it’s properly impregnated with the proper impregnator/sealer
(like my outlandish MB-4 J), then it could be a very enjoyable stone,
but there are too many variables involved for me to consider it a
good choice. Regardless, I seldom make final statements about any
one particular stone. There may be differences within the same stone
(and I’m not talking about looks, here!) from one bundle of slabs
and the next. The slabs may have also been either “doctored”
(which is bad), or “resined” (which could be good) by the
factory, which would make a big difference. Even more important, what’s
a good stone in the hands of some “Michelangelo”?! , Maurizio,
Expert Panelist |
| Q
6761: I
have butterfly granite, at least that is what I was told it was when
I bought it 2 years ago. Today, I checked pictures of butterfly on
other web sites and it sure looks like mine. You wrote in question
3037 that it should not be sealed. How do I know if it was sealed?
Does it have a different shine or texture? Now, assuming it really
is butterfly and it was not sealed, I am good, right?? So, my question
is will your do's and don'ts book explain care to me? For example,
it is spring and the ants are out. The little buggers love to invade
one area of my kitchen. The granite is dark and I have to get down
at eye level to see where they are or if they are gone. We put out
ant traps, keep counters clean, and spray outside the house where
they enter. One of my friends told me to wipe everything down with
amonia because ants hate that. Is this safe to use on my counters?
I feel like this is a whole new dimension for me, everything I have
known about cleaning my whole life my not apply to granite. HELP?
Thanks, Linda, May
26, Reply
|
R1:
Dear Linda: Well, whether they sealed it or not, it really doesn’t
matter now. Considering that you have it for two years already and
had no problem, I wouldn’t concern myself about that. A sealer
for stone – more properly called impregnator – does not
affect in any way, shape or form the original factory finish of the
slab, because is a below surface sealer, not a topical. In fact, the
most important phase of the application of an impregnator is to make
sure that every residue of the stuff is thoroughly removed off of
the stone surface.
The application of ammonia occasionally (don’t make a habit out
of it!) will not damage your stone. Maurizio, Expert Panelist |
| Q
6760: We
are planning to remodel our kitchen this year and am unsure about
the best flooring choice for our kitchen. I like the look of natural
stone but have read that travertine is not the best choice since it
is very porous. I do not want to install ceramic tile since the floor
will be laid in the dining room also and ceamic tile is more informal.
Are there differences in types of travertine and would it be suitable
for the kitchen? If not, what are my either options? Thanks, Lisa,
May 26,
Reply |
| R1:
Dear Lisa: Yeah, that’s what lots of “professionals”
keep saying: “Travertine is very porous!” Of course, it’s
the opposite. In fact, travertine is the densest stone among the calcite-based
ones. And that is not hearsay or my opinion: it is a scientific fact.
Having said that, travertine is suitable as a material for a kitchen
floor providing that’s not polished. Hone-finished or tumbled
are quite all right. That is, providing that you can take good care
of it. You’re not going to get any real intelligence on this
all too important subject from the people who told you that travertine
is very porous, I can promise you that! Maurizio, Expert Panelist
|
| Q
6759: Dear
Sir, Could you tell me if you have the name of a lab preferably in
the United States that will perform a ASTM C 217 Weather Resistance
of Slate test? Your help would be greatly appreciated. Kevin,
May 26,
Reply
|
| Q
6758: hello.
can you please advise if vinegar and water would be a credible option
to clean my terrazzo floors. thank you, carolyn, May
25, Reply
|
| R1:
Dear Carolyn: Credible option? Absolutely! In fact it will damage
your terrazzo floor right after the first application and continue
doing so time after time! And that is so very credible that you can
take it to the bank!! Water and vinegar was one of the favorite home-brewed
concoctions at the beginning of the “marble era” in this
country. As a stone restoration contractor I made so much money out
that “credible option” that I could comfortably retire out
of it! Over the years, however, the word spread around and my …
source of income virtually dried up. It is simply amazing noticing
that after all this time there’s still some idiot who comes up
with the vinegar thing!, Maurizio, Expert Panelist |
| Q
6757: I
am approaching the end of the first year in a new home. We have Absolute
Black granite countertops in our kitchen. I am confused about whether
or not to seal the countertop, can you help inform me? It’s difficult
to find information about whether to seal or not because most websites
and information is being offered by companies that sell sealers…you
seem to be the only place to get informed and unbiased information.
I’d appreciate your guidance. Thank you! Sarah, May
25, Reply |
| R1:
Dear Sarah: My outlandish MB-4 – the impregnator/sealer that
I make – is arguably among the best on the market. Having said
that, no, you do NOT want to have any impregnator/sealer applied to
black absolute “granite.” Concern yourself with every day
specialty products for its proper care! Maurizio, Expert Panelist |
| Q
6756: I
am so grateful for having found a definitive and expert source for
advice on stone countertops for kitchens!! I am now convinced that
I should not put cararra marble countertops in my kitchen. The house
is Victorian Italianate c1868 and it would be appropriate, I understand,
but not at all reasonable. Honed black absolut granite and honed pietra
cordosa have both been suggested as alternatives. What is pietra cordosa
stone? I was told that it is the stone used for countertops in chemistry
labs and is impervious to everything. Is this correct? I am down to
the wire trying to make the right decision. Should a honed finish
be sealed? Often? Also, I have seen bianco romano granite referred
to several times as a good alternative to white marble. Help! Becky,
May 25,
Reply |
| R1:
Dear Becky: No, Pietra Cardosa – a shist from Italy – is
not used on chemistry labs; Soapstone is. You do NOT want honed black
absolute. If you want to know more, you’re in direct contact
with me now. I will be more than happy to answer all of your questions.
This will also entitle you to two articles of my educational literature.
Maurizio, Expert Panelist |
Q
6755: I've
just had my kitchen countertops replaced with blue pearl granite.
It was "cleaned" with acetone by the installers & looks
beautiful. I don't think that it is "sealed", but what should
I do to keep it bright & shiny? Can I place hot pans on it? What
about water/food stains? Is it acid resistant? I know that I should
have done this research first, but I just "fell in love"
with this georgeous granite! Thanks for your expert answers. Kay,
May 25,
Reply |
| R1:
Dear
Kay: You’re lucky: your “granite” is one of my very
favorite stones and one of the best that money can buy for the intents
and purposes of a kitchen countertop! About the sealing issue, let’s
just hope that your fabricator did not seal it, because Blue Pearl
does not need to be sealed with an impregnator (that’s what a
sealer for stone is called) – not even my outlandish MB-4! :-)
Yes, you can place hot pans on it. No, you don’t have to worry
about food stains: that stone is quite dense and doesn’t absorb
much. Yes, it is very much acid resistant. Maurizio, Expert Panelist
|
| Q
6754: I
replaced the window in my bathroom, and I scratched the marble sill
and put some nicks in it. How do I repair these white spots ? Thanks,
May 24,
Reply |
| R1:
Dear Robert: You can’t. Nobody can. :-(
Those particular damages are called “stunned crystals.”
Ciao and good luck, Maurizio, Expert Panelist |
| Q
6753: We
are looking at various granites for our kitchen countertops and we
both like a variety called Lapidus from Brazil as it is fairly light
in color but has some interesting structure and colors but more fractured
than some varieties. Is this a good material for kitchens? A second
choice we looked at is Kinawa Bianco which is a gneiss and I think
has a very low porosity. Our kitchen is a little on the dark side
(not to mention the lack of sun here in Seattle) and we are trying
to stick with lighter varieties. Gary, Seattle, May
24, Reply
|
R1:
Dear Gary: Both stone you mentioned require some serious sealing with
a good-quality stone impregnator (like my outlandish MB-4! :-)). But
remember, the make of the impregnator/sealer is only half the equation,
the second one being the operator! All in all, however, I seldom make
final statements about any one particular stone. There may be differences
within the same stone (and I’m not talking about looks, here!)
from one bundle of slabs and the next. The slabs may have also been
either “doctored” (which is bad), or “resined”
(which could be good) by the factory, which would make a big difference.
Even more important, what’s a good stone in the hands of some
“Michelangelo”?!
. Maurizio, Expert Panelist |
Q
6752: Hi,
I’m about ready to tackle a granite countertop and I have a few
questions. Using 12 x 12 tiles.
1) Do I leave grout spaces , I so how big, I have heard some people
butt them tight, others say leave a 1/16 “ between.
2) What kind of glue for ¾ plywood covered by ¼ or ½
cement board??
3) What kind of grout, is it the same as ceramic wall tile??
4) My current back splash is 4 ¼ x 4 ¼ ceramic tile,
can I lay granite 12 x 12 tile over that or do I have to remove the
ceramic tile. Richard, May
24, Reply
|
| Q
6751: I
am looking for some advice. I recently had my home re-floored with
travertine. I got a 'great deal' at one of the 'big box' superstores.
Now, just 4 months later my wife and I are finding pock marks, actually
holes. Is this normal? They are in traffic spots often many to a tile,
and range in size from sesame seed sized to 1/2inch and larger. After
speaking with our installer, we believe it is a issue with the tile.
The tile is from Turkey. The packaging says only 'Natural Travertine'
, the packaging is 4 each 18x18 pcs. Was it a mistake to buy from
a big box store?? Does travertine have a general scale of quality??
Any answers you can provide would be greatly appreciated? May
24, Reply
|
| R1:
It must have been a bad batch, in the sense that the filler used by
the factory was not mixed well and gave in. It has nothing to do with
the possible grading of the travertine itself, or the fact that was
bought at one of the big boxes. You can have your tiles refilled by
a stone restoration contractor. Maurizio, Expert Panelist |
| Q
6750: Will
a granite slab left outside for an extended period of time be affected
by sunlight? Is it possible for the UV rays to darken a slab?
May 24,
Reply |
| R1:
Dear Richard: Which “granite”? True geological granite does
not get affected by the UV rays. Certain mercantile granites do. Maurizio,
Expert Panelist |
| R2:
UV
rays often make the yellow flecks (gold striations) in the green stones
more pronounced. Materials like Verde Butterfly, Peacock Gold, Ubatuba,
Verde Jewel/Kerala Green - to name a few - are prone to change color
somewhat if exposed to bright sunlight - i.e. being stored, uncovered,
in an outside slab yard. These changes are sometimes very desirable,
but can be worrisome if all the slabs in a kitchen did not get the
exact same exposure to UV. UV radiation in a house would not be nearly
as severe as outside, so the material should not - in theory - change
color all that much once it is installed. Regards, Cassie |
| Q
6749: Hi,
thanks a million for such a terrific amount of information. We have
Moleanos (a kind of limestone) in several parts of our building (access
corridors, dinning rooms and bathroom counters). I have no info on
the product used in the sealing of these areas (some may have never
been sealed). Do you have any general guidelines for the maintenance
of this kind of stone. May
22, Reply |
| R1:
Dear Lena:
Just seal the areas that weren’t sealed with a good-quality stone
impregnator, and then maintain your floors by damp mopping regularly
with a pH neutral floor detergent. Make sure it is not a stone soap!
Ciao and good luck, Maurizio, Expert Panelist |
| Q
6748: I
put black midnight granite counter in my kitchen. I did not know about
the lemon test until I used lemon and noticed stains and could not
remove them. Is there any cleaner I could use for that. If I use a
sealer will it protect it from the lemon. I am really worried that
I spent all that money and I will get stains when I use lemon again
or someone uses it in my kitchen, May 22, Reply |
| R1:
Dear Filomena: There’s no cleaner out there that will solve your
problem, and no sealer will protect your “granite” from
acidic spills. But there’s hope! You’re in direct contact
with me now. Maurizio, Expert Panelist |
| Q
6747: I
bought 200 "seconds" of marble tiles that have etching on
them from being left outside. I am wondering if there is a way that
I can hone or polish them myself? I am going to be using them for
a tub surround and was told that honed marble is better for this purpose
that polished because of the soap etching...is this true? Thanks,
Shelley, May 22, Reply |
|
R1:
Dear Shelley: Polishing, no chance. Honing (which is better. Whoever
told you that was right) is possible. If you need additional assistance,
you’re in direct contact with me now. You could log in the
“Educational Literature” I will be more than happy to
answer all of your questions. This will also entitle you to two
articles of my educational literature. Ciao and good luck, Maurizio,
Expert Panelist
|
| Q
6746: I'm
planning on using China Lotus slate in the foyer and also on a deck
that is half covered. I'm installing a spa on the deck as well. I
live in Hawaii in an area that gets a lot of rain. I have two very
large dogs that live in the house. The dogs bring in red dirt (clay
based dirt that dyes everything red). I plan on sealing the slate.
How will this particular slate hold up? How often would I have to
reseal the slate floor? Would I be better off usinsg porcelain or
cermaic tile? Thanks, Susan, May
21, Reply |
| R1:
Dear
Susan: “How will this particular slate hold up?” It won’t!!
You do NOT want any slate – Chinese or otherwise, sealed or not
sealed – period. Maurizio, Expert Panelist |
| Q
6745: I
had a granite countertop installed yesterday. It is beautiful but
near the sink are 3 very, very small chips. How should I approach
this with the countertop people? I paid so much and I guess I feel
it should be perfect. Am I correct? May
21, Reply |
R1:
Dear Helen:Hmmm … you sound a little too
“perfect” to me. I really don’t know what to say. Once
a lady called me all excited because she had pits “developing”
in her brand-new marble vanity top (a breccia-type stone: it does
have natural pits). I went there and to show to me the pits she had
to go with here nose ½” close to the top to see them!!
Maurizio, Expert Panelist |
| Q
6744: We
purchased a home that has Saturnia marble floors everywhere. I would
like to know how to clean them. I was told only to use hot water and
make sure I don't soak them. Also, the bathroom has a shower with
marble floor and walls. I definitely have a hard water lime scale
build-up. Every cleaner that will work on natural stone, will not
cut it. Any scale remover that I have found is not for use on natural
stone. Can you please help me with this problem. I will appreciate
any advice. Thank you, L. Henning. May
21, Reply
|
| R1:
Dear L. Henning: If your Saturnia floors are
in good shape all you need to do is clean them periodically with a
solution of warm water and my MB-1. About the idea of non soaking
them, I really don’t understand. First off, nobody soaks floors
(although it would be a good thing to do!), and, second, I don’t
see why not. Saturnia (a cross-cut travertine) is quite a dense stone
and only absorbs traces of water that will quickly evaporate during
the drying process. About your marble shower stall, to the best of
my know ledge we are the only company to have two specific products:
MB-3 soap film remover (it does remove mineral deposits, too), and
MB-9 mildew stain remover, which are effective yet absolutely safe
on marble. (We have them for 15 years!!) There is a problem, however:
we have a corporate motto that goes: “Education before any sale!”
I would like to know more about those hard lime scales of yours. It
takes a whole lot of neglect to have a conspicuous build-up of lime
deposit; therefore I am afraid that it could be something else much
more serious and demanding a much more radical solution. Does your
“lime scale build-up” appear to be like a hard scab, mostly
concentrated in the grout lines and the stone natural fissures of
the shower floor? Does it feel wet all the time when running a fingertip
over it? Let me know and then we’ll take it from there. You’re
in direct contact with me now. Ciao and good luck, Maurizio, Expert
Panelist |
| Q
6743: I
just had black galaxy granite installed on my island this week and
Verde Fontain on my other kitchen cabinetry. My installer was a crook
who knew nothing about installation or measuring and cannot be contacted
and is out of the biz already. Having said that…We just noticed
that the granite on the island has 2 large cracks running under and
on top running almost the width of the island’s top. My question
is…will the granite hold up? My fear is that it will break in
half or become very deep and stain. I have no $ left to replace and
at cannot go back on the fabricator. Thanks! May
21, Reply |
| R1:
Dear
Kelly: And what do you expect me to say, other then expressing my
sympathy over you having stumbled on yet another “Michelangelo?”Foretell
if your crack will break open? Well, I may be a few things, but a
foreteller? … Not quite yet! Perhaps I should try that some times.
I’ve heard that there’s good money in it!I’m truly
sorry. Try to consult with a local stone restoration company and see
if they can do something about it. Ciao and good luck, Maurizio, Expert
Panelist |
| Q
6742: The
vases on either side of my parents headstone have come unglued. What
product can I buy to fix them myself, that will glue them and make
them stay. Please respond before Mothers Day. Thanks Carolyn
May 21,
Reply |
| R1:
Dear
Carolyn: Here I am way before Mother’s Day! It goes on black
and dries clear. It’s a tough cookie all right! Ciao and good
luck, Maurizio, Expert Panelist |
| Q
6741: I
would like to know about pots and plates, they have a smell to it
when wet, it alters the flavor of food. Is there some kind of sealer
that is not harmful? Thank you, Christina, May
20, Reply |
| R1:
Dear Christina:
I thought that this was a site where people inquire about stone, not
pots and plates! A sealer for pots and plates because they smell when
wet?? … That’s a good one!! I’ve gotta admit it that
for a minute you almost got me!! That was funny all right! Ciao and
good luck, Maurizio, Expert Panelist |
| Q
6740: I
put a really hot pot on my granite and it left a dull ring. What can
I do. Alos when the tile installer put the backsplash in he scrathed
the granite in two places. I'm thinking I have to have it polised,
yes? Thanks, please respond! Michele G. May
20, Reply |
| R1:
Dear
Michele: What you’re reporting is a technical impossibility.
Black Galaxy can not be damaged by a hot pot. Unless, of course, your
fabricator applied an impregnator/sealer to it thinking that’s
granite. Get their butt back on the scene and have them solve the
problem they created. If you want to hear the solution from me you’re
gonna have to pay my consultation fee. You’re in direct contact
with me now. Ciao and good luck, Maurizio, Expert Panelist |
| Q
6739: I
recently had sandstone (Pietra Etrusca) installed in my shower and
bathroom. The installer put 3 coats of a silicone based sealant on
the stone in the shower. Right away the stone would soak through and
soon after, the stone began to granulate and large pits began to appear.
The stone dealer came to look at it and told me it needed at least
6 coats of sealant for a shower installation. When I purchased the
stone, the salesperson told us that the stone was fine to use in a
shower as long as it was well sealed, but did not say it would require
so many coats. They offered to give me a replacement case of the stone,
but I am worried the problem is that this is not the right stone for
a shower. The installer said he could apply a protective epoxy coating,
but this would change the appearance of the stone and it would not
match the rest of the stone in bathroom. Is this a problem with the
stone selection or the installation? Thanks, Brad, May
20, Reply |
| R1:
Dear Brad: I have no doubt that salesman is very good. At selling,
that is. Knowing about stone??... Somehow I doubt it! He just joined
the choir and sings the same stupid tune like everybody else, by which
all problems are solved with the “miracle-in-a-bottle,”
the all too heralded stone impregnator/sealer, which will turn a piece
of crap like Pietra Etrusca into a magnificent, bullet-proof material!
All it takes are more applications of the “good stuff” (I
didn’t say coats, because sealers for stone are below surface
products; therefore the term coat does not apply). Will an impregnator/sealer
– even as good as my outlandish MB-4 – solidify a stone
that naturally gets destroyed by water? Of course not! A sealer for
stone was not formulated to do that! It was simply formulated to prevent
staining. (Just in case you spill coffee or cooking oil in your shower
… Hey, you never know!) Will coating the stone with epoxy solve
the problem? Of course not! Then what? Not much, really: most sandstones
don’t belong in a shower, and that is that. “Mankind should
master Nature by understanding, not by force!” I believe in that.
You want to fight Mother Nature? I’ve got news for you: you may
be able to win a couple of rounds, but you will lose the fight! All
the time. And you can take that to the bank; while you can take your
good salesman to court on the grounds that he doesn’t know what
he’s doing (he can sell it, though!), and sold you the wrong
stone for the application. And the show goes on! Maurizio, Expert
Panelist |
| Q
6738: We
purchased an old church house made in 1850 with sandstone and we kept
the sand stone open in side the house for decorative purposes but
it tends to through out what may be salt a crusty white material on
some of the stone holding moisture and needs to be cleaned of know
and then can we seal the stone to keep the appearance good. best wishes,
Joe, May
20, Reply |
| R1:
Dear Joe: One of my favorite quotes is: “Mankind should master
Nature by understanding, not be force!” I you clean and seal
your sandstone, what do you think is going to happen to it? Where
do you think that the moisture is going to go? What do you think the
trapped-in moisture is going to do to the stone? That migration of
moisture has been going on for over a century and a half and the sandstone
is still there! Let it “breath” and learn how to live with
it, if you want to keep your stone! Maurizio, Expert Panelist |
| Q
6737: I
just had Travertine floors laid in 1500 sf of my home. It is in the
kitchen, dinning room, and all bathrooms and high traffic areas. I
love the natural glow of the stone and have not sealed the stone as
of yet. It has been in for 30 days now and gets more beautiful every
day. I am concerned because I hear a lot about the stone should be
sealed. I have no children, we live in Las Vegas Nevada so no snow
and little rain, no large dogs, 1 small dog, and there are 2 adults
living in the house. We do entertain often but always with adults.
I love the floor and the natural shine. I am afraid if I seal it the
natural glow will be lost and I will be very unhappy about that. Is
it imperative that the stone be sealed? I am using a neutral soap
to clean the stone, although I think it best to use as little as possible
and only when necessary. Please advise on the cleaning routine. Thank
you for your feed back. I dearly love these floors!!! thanks, Chet
Crouch Las Vegas NV, May
20, Reply |
| R1:
Dear Chet: Sealers for stone are penetrating, below surface products;
therefore they do not affect in a no way or shape the natural finish
of the stone. In fact, none of the stuff is supposed to remain on
the stone surface, since the most important phase of the application
of an impregnator/sealer is the removal of every bit of residue. Having
said that, the question is: do you really need to have your stone
sealed? Travertine is quite a dense stone and absorb very little.
Maurizio, Expert Panelist |
| Q
6736: I
have white carrera marble counters in my kitchen. I banged a crystal
glass into the side of one of the counters and chipped the marble
(the glass was fine!-amazing). What can i do to seal it before it
gets fixed so it doesn't stain, and what can be done to fix the chip?
thanks for any help.... victoria. May
20, Reply |
R1:
Dear Victoria: I won’t even bother commenting on the fact that
you have white marble as a kitchen countertop. I only hope that those
slabs were hone-finished, and very low at that! Are you afraid that
you’re going to stain the marble where the chip came off?? And
with what?? Besides, the application of a sealer could jeopardize
the execution of the repair.
Get your fabricator back to your place and repair that chip for you.
It’s certainly not a DIY project. Ciao and good luck, Maurizio,
Expert Panelist |
| Q
6735: We
have pink marble topped tables and there are scratches on them. I
figue from the cats claws, you know jumping up on them and trying
to stop on the slippery surface with their claws? Anyway, I need to
find a way to remove these scratches. They are long, but not deep,
as you can imagine. Richard, May
20, Reply |
| R1:
Dear
Richard: You have to wet-sand your table top using special resin-bond
diamond pads, going through a few grits and using a special piece
of equipment, and then when you’re done with that, you have to
polish your marble back to its original finish by using a special
polishing powder for marble with a little bit of water, using the
same machine with special white nylon polishing pads. That’s
all. Oh I almost forgot: you also have to know what you’re doing!
My next class on stone refinishing is scheduled for July 29 through
July 31, In Philadelphia, PA. The cost is $800.00 plus traveling,
lodging and food. To that you will have to add approximately $500.00
for the equipment, diamond pads and polishing powder. The tap water
is for free. Or you can spend less money and hire a proven stone restoration
contractor in your neck of the woods. :-) Maurizio, Expert Panelist
|
| Q
6734: Please
advise how I might fill the holes and pits in travertine tiles. Grout
is too grainy. I would prefer something that will mimick the travertine
as much as possible but would be satisfied with any solid filler.
The filler must not shrink during drying thus requiring repeated fillings.
Filler must also be able to withstand 385degree from a heat press
for about 15 seconds. I'm printing on the tiles. I prefer to use travertine
because it is absorbant. Hope you can help. This sight is awesome!
Thanks very much. Linda, May
20, Reply |
| R1:
Dear
Linda: Filling travertine holes is not for amateurs. You could fill
it with sand-less grout (wall type), but it takes a special technique.
Regardless, if you chose travertine to do whatever it is that you
do because is absorbent, you’re gonna be in for a surprise: travertine
is the densest among the calcite-based stones! Do you need something
absorbent, get limestone (most of them), sandstone, etc. Maurizio,
Expert Panelist |
| Q
6733: My
husband is installing black slate to our kitchen countertop. Is this
OK? How do we seal and care for it without poisoning family. We also
put it around the fireplace, is there a certain seal we should use
that is not flamable? Thanks, Melissa, May
18, Reply |
| R1:
Dear Melissa: Black slate does not take any impregnator/sealer
in to begin with. Regardless, it’s the worst material you could
ever choose for a kitchen countertop. No “miracle-in-a-bottle”
will ever do the first thing to overcome the nightmarish experiences
you will have. The one around the fireplace is okay. It doesn’t
need to be sealed. Ciao and good luck, Maurizio, Expert Panelist |
| Q
6732: I
have had absolute black countertops for about two years now which
were sealed at installation (with what I do not know). A friend of
mine has the same countertops, and for about the same amount of time,
and he did not get his sealed at installation or anytime thereafter.
Now, given both of our scenarios, we are both finding small rings
popping up all over the place (which sound like what the experts refer
to as the acid rings). They are a very slight milky color on our absolute
black counters. The only difference between my friend and my spots
are that his are much more abundant (in discoloration and number of
spots) and started almost immediately after installation. My spots
did not start to appear until after about a year (maybe enough time
for the sealer to wear off). My question is, what can myself and my
friend do to have the rings removed (keeping in mind that I have hade
my counters sealed and he has never)? Will steel wool work? Will a
paste work? Also, is it ok to use windex to do daily cleanings on
the countertops, say after cooking dinner? May 18, Reply
|
R1:
Dear Mike: Let’s start by saying that when one mentions “Black
Absolute Granite” one’s talking about a huge variety of
stones coming a little bit from all over the planet, each and every
one of them not a geological granite by a long shot, and each and
every one of them with different characteristics. If that wasn’t
confusing enough, each and every one of them are processed with even
if so slightly methods – which again can make a difference.
There used to be three possibilities to explain the problems that
both your friend and you are experiencing, which are here listed in
order of probability (the first being the most probable):
The fabricator applied an impregnator/sealer to it believing that
it’s granite. No impregnator/sealer will ever be absorbed by
black granite, therefore it won’t do the first thing about doing
what’s designed to do, which is prevent stains. (What you and
your friend have are NOT stains, and no impregnator/sealer on the
planet can prevent those.) Many a sealer turn out to be sensitive
to acids; hence the “mysterious etching.” Not on the stone,
rather on the sealer that had no business being there.
The slab had been “doctored” by the factory by applying
some sort of black shoe shine in order to make it “blacker”
and, therefore more “sellable.” After a while the “shoe
shine” will begin etching as it gets eaten away by acidic spills.
The true color of the stone is gray.
It is one of those as-rare-as-a-white-fly “mutt” stones
with some calcite in it. In this case it is actually the stone that
gets etched. In the last couple of years there’s been a change
in the scenario above. Another possibility has entered the scene:
4. Certain manufacturers apply some sort of protective wax to the
slabs. It is not actual “doctoring,” since there’s
no alteration to the color of the stone, but the result is the same
as if the slab had been “doctored” with the “shoe-shine.”
Finally, case 3 above is not as rare as it used to be anymore. At
least a couple of “Black Absolute Granites” from India entered
the scene recently and are terrible “mutt” stones. Since
they are cheap (to the importers) they sell like crazy.
Having said all that, the remedy to the points 1, 2 and 4 is to remove
whatever it is that’s sitting on the stone surface, by either
stripping it chemically by soaking it with Methylene Chloride, or
mechanically, by rubbing on the stone surface a polishing compound
for marble (NOT for granite!) with a little bit of water.
Case 3 is terminal. All things considered, black granite – which
should be considered among the most enjoyable materials as a kitchen
countertop – has made it out my own list of recommended stones.
Until the industry will not straighten its act up by becoming serious
about the classification of all the different “granites”
on the marketplace and dictate strict rules and guidelines about their
characteristics and implied guarantees to the consumers, my position
is going to be it from now on. Ciao and good luck, Maurizio, Expert
Panelist |
| Q
6732: Can
anyone tell me anything about a granite called Autumn Leaf? It is
a medium-size crystal with beige, brown, taupe and black. Is it a
true granite? Where is it from? Is there another name for it? Thank
you for your assistance. Rose, May
18, Reply |
| R1:
Dear Rose: If you want to know about Autumn
Leaf just for the heck of it I can’t help you. I’ve seen
that stone (absolutely gorgeous), but I don’t know what it is
(certainly NOT a true granite). If instead you wanted to know about
it to find out how suitable it is as material for a kitchen countertop,
then, I seldom make final statements about any one particular stone.
There may be differences within the same stone (and I’m not talking
about looks, here!) from one bundle of slabs and the next. The slabs
may have also been either “doctored” (which is bad), or
“resined” (which could be good) by the factory, which would
make a big difference. Even more important, what’s a good stone
in the hands of some “Michelangelo”?! I did write a very
comprehensive article on “How to Shop for a Granite Kitchen Countertop”
that will give you all the intelligence you need to venture yourself
with confidence in the stone industry jungle! Maurizio, Expert Panelist
|
What
are you telling your customers about cleaning supplies for natural
stone?
I have not seen any feedback on this website about what the consumers
are using that is successful, especially for the difficult problem
of soap scum in their showers. It would be wonderful to hear from
people who actually use a product that works. I have spent a lot of
money on products that are no better than water. Rose |
R2:
Dear
Rose: Firstly, consumers who posts in this site are here to report
problems, not solutions!
Second, do you want to know why I became a “chemist”? I
was simply a contractor, going around refinishing marble floors, shower
stalls, etc. Each and every one of my customers was inevitably asking
me – since the time of the estimate – what they were supposed
to do and use to take care of the stones that I was about to so expensively
restore for them. I felt that it was my professional obligation to
offer them precise answers and specific products that would work.
So, I started looking around for specialty products to maintain stone,
planning to become a distributor of one of the few companies that
where on the market back then (circa 1988). Unfortunately for them,
I am one of those guys who look at a fancy brochure from its back,
not its flashy front, and I realized that there was really nothing
out there for residential consumers, which could take care of every
possible natural stone installation. All I found was a bunch of all
too much heralded stone sealers, and some “marble cleaner”
(whatever that means!) that turned out to be nothing but so-so floor
cleaners! Could I sell that stuff to my customers? Of course I could:
they trusted me! They would buy anything I told them to buy!
But the real question was: will they be pleased with the performance
of those products?... You fill the blanks! It was back then that I
decided to do something about it, which eventually turned out to become
my main business. I have a soap scum remover and a mildew stain remover
that work great and are safe on marble for 15 years already! Amazingly
enough, I found out the hard way that the worst enemy of end users
of stone are the same dealers who sell it to them! They just don’t
want to bother offering intelligence and products to their own customers.
“Buy the stuff from me, pay me and then get lost!” This
seems to be the predominant philosophy in the stone industry. Maurizio,
Expert Panelist |
| Q
6731: I
bought a 58"x42" slab of granite to install on a 24"X31"
base cabinet as a table /counter top to coordinate with the rest of
my kitchen which also has granite counters. The cabinet will be set
up against the wall and the granite overhang will be 18" on the
front and 14" on each side of the cabinet. My question to you
is will the weight of the granite be able to be supported by the base
cabinet(plywood contruction sides only) and what is the best way to
intall the granite on top of the base cabinet. May
18, Reply |
| R1:
Dear Mary: You’re giving me more credit that I deserve! :-) Without
actually seeing your cabinets I couldn’t tell. However, if you
can’t trust your fabricator on that issue, then you have a problem!
:-( Now, remember, it’s never too early to think about the proper
maintenance of your stone. Maurizio, Expert Panelist |
| Q
6730: The
marble in my foyer is 40 years old, it is dirty and has no shine;
what do I need to do to clean it--brand names-- and how do I seal
it: the marble tracks up the stairs as it is very dirty, May
18, Reply
|
R1:
The only thing you can do is to get hold of a bona fide stone restoration
contractor, who will have to re-grind and re-polish (not seal) your
stone. Nothing else will work.
Now, you’d better watch out! I consider stone refinishing as
the very pinnacle of all the activities related to stone, from a professional
point of view. Unfortunately, there are a lot of quacks on the loose
out there! How could you tell a champ from a chomp? Could you trust
the recommendation of your local stone distributor, or contractor,
or your interior decorator? Hardly! Maurizio, Expert Panelist |
| Q
6729: I
am about to install a new granite countertop of "Labrador Angola."
The installer says that he seals all granite and I have read in your
column that some "black" granites do not need sealing. Labrador
Angola is a black with charcoal and greyish silver veins. Any suggestions?
Thanks for your great resource. Mary Ann, May
18, Reply
|
| R1: Dear
Mary Ann: No, I don’t have any suggestion, since I never heard
of that particular stone. Just run my little lemon juice (and oil)
test and then take it from there. Now, remember, it’s never too
early to think about the proper maintenance of your stone. It’s
a subject that’s all too often neglected and, as you can tell
by reading many of this site’s postings, you’re not likely
to get good information about it from your dealer or installer. Maurizio,
Expert Panelist |
| Q
6728: I
recently purchased sierra gray fabricated counters. I have cut, installed
them and seamed them. Now to the sealing part. I tested a piece of
granite with lemon juice - let it sit for 25 minutes, didn't phase
it. Should I still apply a sealer? It seems when I wipe the counter
with a wet cloth, it darkens, and when the water evaporates it returns
to it's natural tone. Is this a sign of absorption, or is this normal?
Thanks! May
18, Reply
|
R1:
Dear Matthias: Of course it needs to be sealed with a good quality
impregnator/sealer (and remember, my outlandish MB-4 is the best of
them all, of course!!). The lemon juice did not phase the stone, but
it did darken it on a temporary basis (like your water), didn’t
it?
Maurizio, Expert Panelist |
| Q
6727: I
have just had black granite kitchen countertops installed and i know
they sealed them, now i can see swirl marks and lighter areas in spots
on my island. Since researching your site (which i wished i had done
before installation) i am seeing that black granite should not be
sealed. Is this what's causing the swirl, sanding marks and lighter
areas? what can be done to fix this problem? can the sealer be removed?
May 18,
Reply |
| R1:
Dear: It’s impossible for me to make a precise assessment without
actually seeing your countertop. It could be the impregnator/sealer
that was not removed off of the stone surface properly, but it could
also be some factory flaw. Either way, you don’t have to accept
it. Call your fabricator back and ask them to rectify the problem.
If it was the sealer they should know how to remove it. If it’s
a factory flaw, either they have a proven stone restoration professional
take care of it, or they take care of it themselves, or they replace
the slab. Ciao and good luck, Maurizio, Expert Panelist |
| Q
6726: We
are looking into bluestone for our kitchen countertops. Is this a
practical choice? I don't know if it scratches, stains, etc. Also,
how does it compare in cost to granites? Should it be sealed? Please
reply. May
17, Reply |
| R1:
Dear Damato: My gut feeling tells me to stay away from it, but I could
be wrong. Honestly, I’m not really familiar with that material
as a kitchen countertop. Try my little lemon juice (and oil) test
to find out. Also try to scratch it to see how “soft” it
is. Ciao and good luck, Maurizio, Expert Panelist |
| Q
6725: I
came across a granite called "Butterfly Gold" Although I
love it, I cannot seem to find to many yards that stock this granite.
I have been told it is from Brazil. Do you have any information regarding
this stone? Is it good or should I seek after a different granite.
Thank you in advance. Eagerly awaiting your reply. Donna, May
17, Reply |
| R1:
Dear Donna: It is probably a variation of the Verde Butterfly, but
I can't say that I am familar with it. If that's the case, it should
be an excellent choice, but I seldom make final statements about any
one particular stone. There may be differences within the same stone
(and I’m not talking about looks, here!) from one bundle of slabs
and the next. The slabs may have also been either “doctored”
(which is bad), or “resined” (which could be good) by the
factory, which would make a big difference. Even more important, what’s
a good stone in the hands of some “Michelangelo”?! Maurizio,
Expert Panelist |
| Q
6724: My
house was built about a year ago and we have the Nero Impala Granite
installed as a countertop in our kitchen. We had a party one day and
after the party we noticed that there was a grease stain on the counter
top. We tried to clean it off that night with just water and soap
and it wouldn’t come off. However, after a couple of days went
by, we noticed that the stain suddenly gone. We also have some water
stain near the kitchen sink and it doesn’t seem to go away. My
questions are, is this a typical behavior of the Nero Impala Granite?
What I can do to get rid of the water stain? and what should I do
to maintain my granite countertop? Your help is much appreciated.
May 17,
Reply |
| R1:
Dear Thang: Since the oil stains went away by itself (it happens sometimes),
it isn’t worth talking about it. As for your reported “water
stains” you’ve got to be more precise about it in their
description. You’re in direct contact with me now. Or you can
go directly into the Consumer Products section and order some MB-5
and, optionally, some MB-13. Should you do that, I will send you my
maintenance guidelines for free, just for the asking! Ciao and good
luck, Maurizio, Expert Panelist |
| Q
6723: Do
you have article on how to install the Granite? I know you need certified
installer, but I want to have knowledge so that they don't cheat me!
Also, i have means of getting the finished product, and I just need
to know how much should I pay for the installation. can you please
help me and also, how I can buy the article on the different topics
on Granite! Also, If you can preovide with with phone#, I would appreciate
it highly. Thank you! Kavin, May
17, Reply |
| R1:
Dear Kavin: Yep! My article is all about giving you the insight of
the secret world of stone fabrication! You will find all the answers
to your questions and more! Maurizio, Expert Panelist |
| Q
6722: We
have a polished red marble installed on a concrete slab in our entryway.
The veins of the marble seem to be crystallizing and disintegrating.
The floor has been sealed, but the problem continues. What can we
do to fix this problem and then to prevent it from happing. Thanks,
Jean, May
17, Reply |
| R1:
Dear Jean: Okay, here it is: the floor was installed on a concrete
slab on grade without the provision for a water-proof membrane. As
the water table under the house raises, there's a migration of moisture
through the slab, and from there through the core of the marble tiles.
Hence, the spalling. Having applied an impregnqator/sealer to the
tiles not only has it been a total waste of time and money (polished
mable, especially in a foyer, does not need ot be sealed), but it
made matter worse by trapping the migrating moisture inside the stone.
This was the diagnosis. Here comes the prognosis: rip out the whole
thing and start anew. :-( This time, however, you do not want to forget
the water-proof membrane. You do want to forget, however, the stupid
sealer (including my outlandish MB-4)! Hey, it's only money! Ciao
and good luck, Maurizio, Expert Panelist |
| Q
6721: I
was wondering if you could tell me which cities in Italy are known
for marble production. I am going to be traveling there early this
year and would love to go see some of the areas that produce the stone.
Thanks. Expert PAnelist, May
17, Reply |
| R1:
Dear Joseph: Carrara and Verona. There are more, but those two are
the most important. Ciao and good luck, Maurizio Bertoli |
| Q
6720: I
WORK FOR A FABRICATION COMPANY, AND I WAS VERY OFFENDED IN THE Q &
A, WHEN YOU MADE A SUGGESTION TO TAKE THE FABRICATOR TO COURT BECAUSE
OF THE STONE STAINING AND BEING VIRTUALLY IMPOSSIBLE TO KEEP CLEAN
AND FREE OF MARKS. THIS IS UNDERSTANDABLE, IT IS NATURAL STOEN ANAD
THEY ARE ALL DIFFERENT. A FABRICATORS JOB IS TO FABRICATE AND INSTALL
THE STONE THAT THE CLIENT WANTS. IT HOWEVER IS NOT OUR JOB TO INSURE
THE STONES CAPABILITY OF REMAINING FLAWLESS. WE ARE THE ATRISANS OF
STONE NOT MOTHER NATURE. IT WOULD BE WISE ON THE CLIENTS PART TO INVESTIGATE
THE STONE BEFORE PURCHASING, BUT TO HOLD SOMEONE ELSE LIABLE FOR YOUR
CHOICE BUT YOURSELF, IS YOUR OWN IGNORANCE. SIGNED, IRRITATED FABRICATOR,
May 17, Reply |
R1:
Dear Irritated Fabricator: (not even the guts
to expose your name and company, uh!) You may be irritated, but you’re
a tad confused, too! (Actually: a lot confused!).
So you say that it’s not your job to know if a stone is going
to be prone to staining more than another one, and that, basically,
you couldn’t care less if your customers will have any problems.
You also go on by saying that it should be your customers responsibility
to investigate if a particular stone that you sell to them as granite
is going to be problem-laden or not. In other words, people should
study some petrography or somethin’ before going out and shop
for a granite countertop, because you are totally ignorant about it
and you’re happy to stay that way. You know nothing, you don’t
care about nothing: you only care to cut and shape and install, and
you don’t have a clue - nor you care to – about what kind
of stone you’re dealing with. You sell multi-thousand dollars
products, which many folks have to save up for, but you couldn’t
care less about telling them what to do with their purchase or advise
them one direction or another. WOW!! Is there a limit to human stupidity?
Let me tell you something, my dear “Michelangelo”: not only
should they take you to court, but they should send you to install
granite countertop in jail and throw the keys out!
Now we know why there are so many problems with the stone industry.
With morons like that, what can one expect?! Please, get permanently
lost. Nobody will ever miss you, I promise! Ciao and good luck, Maurizio,
Expert PAnelist |
| Q
6719: We
just installed Uba Tuba countertops in our kitchen. My wife has noticed
little pitch marks in the stone that are rough. Is this normal for
the stone or should it be smooth all over? John, May
15, Reply
|
R1:
Dear John: Stone is a product of nature, and therefore perfection
can't be expected.
Having said that, I've seen many slabs of Ubatuba just about "perefect"
and some other ones (a lower grade, of course), not so "perfect,"
though within standards of acceptance. At this point it all boils
down to what your own standards are! ;) Now, remember, it's never
too early to think about the proper maintenance of your stone. It's
a subject that's all too often neglected and, as you can tell by reading
many of this site's postings, you're not likely to get good information
about it from your dealer or installer. Don't become another statistic!
Maurizio, Expert Panelist |
| Q
6718: Do
you have article on how to install the Granite? I know you need certified
installer, but I want to have knowledge so that they don't cheat me!
Also, i have means of getting the finished product, and I just need
to know how much should I pay for the installation. can you please
help me and also, how I can buy the article on the different topics
on Granite! Also, If you can preovide with with phone#, I would appreciate
it highly.Thank you! Kavin, May
15, Reply |
| Q
6717: Please
suggest the approximate hardness of the marble Ambaji White of Indian
Origin.Is it tue that the Taj Mahal is made up of this marble stone?with
regards,ranjeet, May
15, Reply |
| Q
6716: I
have just bought a home in Houston, TX, that was built in 1938. They
used an Austin White Lime Veneer that is 4" thick according to
the original drawings. The surface is dark now and there are many
botanicals around the house which have turned it green in many places.
I think soot from the fireplace has turned the chimney black. I would
like to have someone take a look at the condition. I have attached
a couple pics (pic
1 & pic
2)of the stone and would like some advise and consulting service.
Please advise who or what company would be helpful. Thanks, David,
May 15, Reply |
| R1:
Hi , Willy is my name from Belgium . I could not open and see your
pict. but anough experience . I doute to have good news , but can
give you a advise , sand blasthing ,dont have any idea if you can
find in Houston a company , size of the sand IMPORTANT , test need
to be done ,no idea how big you house is ,Muriatic acide can do it
aswell BUT delicat to do. Best .Willy |
| R2:
Dear Stained Stones, There is a simple low cost solution to your problem...
you can rent a medium size pressure washer (1200 to 1600psi) and clean
it yourself in a single weekend. There will be no chemicals to worry
about and the hedges and shrubs will be safe, as only water and pressure
used here. You can blast it so white in fact it can be brought to
quarry original color. You can hire this done by local pressure washer
folks, or rent (purchase) a machine yourself and keep it for future
use. I see some mold on the chimney as well that can be cleaned by
same method. Do be careful to get the blast too close near trim and
caulk, as it can blast it away as well. There is a great little washer
by Karcher available on one of the TV network stores (not sure if
it is QVC or who), but I saw it last week for 130 dollars. I have
one and it cleans my limestone great. Good Luck, Larry, Temple, |
| R3:
I
am willing to help in this project. Please let me know how can I contact
you. Looking forward to be able to help, Sandra |
| R4:
David,
I would try power washing it before i would try any chemical cleaners.
You may be surprised at the results. I do not know what the E.P.A
laws are in texas, but here in Pa. we have to use biodegradable products
that are safe for the environment. You could use tri sodium phosphate
mixed with the water in the power washer.If this doe`s not work for
you ,then contact a company called Gran Quartz,they are a vendor we
buy stone equipment from. They sell a large selection of cleaners
and sealers,and they will tell you what to use. Good luck Sincerely
Mr. Joseph F. Mushinsky, Joseph |
| R5:
David,
The stone you have is a three unit pitched face ashlar in Cordova
Creme (Austin) limestone. You can use regular old household bleach
to lighten the dark and green areas. Personally, I would spray it
on with a pump up type garden sprayer as the use of a high pressure
wash can and will damage this stone. If you do decide to use a pressure
washer, please do not exceed 200 to 300 psi, and do not use any cleaners
that contain acid of any sort. The black on your walls and chimney
is a natural weathering phenomone and is nature's way of protecting
the stone with a case hardened surface coat. The chimney is so much
darker since it is more exposed to the elements that the stone below
the eves of the house. The bleach will lighten the stone back up.
I have material around my shop that is literally bleck from being
under trees in the weather, and a couple of bleach applications brings
its natural unweathered color and appearence right back. Good luck,
JVC |
| Q
6715: On
holiday in Portugal we visited the marble town of vila vicosa.In the
museum we were told that in the marble quarries a very hard sandstone
is sometimes found that has to be dug or blasted out because it resists
cutting even with a diamond cutter. Our guide named the substance
in Portuguese but did not know the english word.What is this sandstone
and why is it so hard? May
14, Reply |
| R1:
Hi, I'm not familiar with this particular situation, but thinking
about it in geologic terms, it does make sense. Marble is what limestone
becomes when subjected to the heat and pressure of metamorphic processes.
Many times in a sedimentary section that is predominately limestone
and shale, there will be layers of sandstone also. If this entire
section under goes metamorphism, the sandstone will also be altered
into a material called quartzite. Quartzite is not only very hard
as the mineral content is moh's hardness 7 =, but extremely abrasive.
My experience with trying to cut quartzite with a diamond saw blade
has been to watch the matrix that holds the diamonds turn bright red,
and then sling off the blade leaving behind nothing but a steel disk.
There are blades made for soft stone (marble) and blades made for
hard stone(granite). In a marble quarry, the saw blades would not
be effective when a much harder stone is encountered. Just my take
on the subject, JVC |
| Q
6714: I
would like to use a nice looking stone for my kitchen counter tops.
My wife and I were considering limestone, but after reading all the
horror stories about scratches, stains, absorptions, etcâ?¦
I think it is NOT for us. Could you please suggest a stone category
having the highest durability, stain resistance, and least absorbent.
Thank you, Dean, May
14, Reply |
| R1:
Dear Dean: There are many commercial granites that would fit your
bill. However, I seldom make final statements about any one particular
stone. There may be differences within the same stone (and I'm not
talking about looks, here!) from one bundle of slabs and the next.
The slabs may have also been either "doctored" (which is
bad), or "resined" (which could be good) by the factory,
which would make a big difference. Even more important, what's a good
stone in the hands of some "Michelangelo"?! I did write
a very comprehensive article on "How to Shop for a Granite Kitchen
Countertop" that will give you all the intelligence you need
to venture yourself with confidence in the stone industry jungle!
Maurizio, Expert Panelist |
| Q
6713: We
just moved to a house where the bathroom is all marble and wondered
what products can be used to clean it. Also, we have a problem with
mildew in the grout between the marble tile in the shower area. what
can we use to clean the grout without hurting the marble? HELP! I'm
tired of looking at this gross shower!! May
14, Reply |
R1:
Dear Meghan: If the mildew is only due to poor housekeeping, then
my MB-9 will do the job without hurting the marble. However, all too
many times (and I sincerely hope that I'm wrong on this one) the presence
of heavy mildew is the
forebearer of really bad news. :-( Keep in mind that if it turns out
to be the case, you do have a ... case. You can hold the house inspector
responsible for not deteching the problem. Maurizio, Expert Panelist |
Q
6712: My
husband and I just purchase some Botticino Semi Classico polished
marble tiles. We got a great deal on them and thought we would put
them in our kitchen. We haven't had them installed yet. The salesman
said the tiles would work well in the kitchen, but several
of our friends have said that that is incorrect. We have been told
that they crack and stain easy. I also looked into sealants for the
marble to prevent stains, but I read that marble absorbs the sealant
and can be ruined. Can you please give me some advice on this subject.
Thank you, Audrey, May
14, Reply |
R1:
Dear Audrey: I seldom find so much misinformation concentrated in
such a short message!! :-) The salesman is a moron ma dyou friends
are right. You do not want polished marble in a kitchen! It will NOT
stain, but it will etch like crazy ("water
stains", "warer rings", etc.) and no impegnator/sealer
under the sun will ever do the first thing to prevent that! The possible
cracking could only be linked to poor installation, and it has nothing
to do with the fact that's marble.Finally, not only wil the marble
NOT absorbe any impregnator/sealer (Botticino does not absorb anything),
but even if it did it wouldn't be damaged by it, that's for sure!
Bottom line, stay away from it!! Ciao and good luck, Maurizio, Expert
Panelist |
Q
6711: Last
summer we installed what was represented to be Black Indian Granite
as our kitchen countertops. We are very disappointed that it stains
very easily. Substances such as lemon, lime and tomato juice seem
to be the worst, but they are not alone. Pots, pans, glasses and dishes
sometimes leave rings if they are wet or sweat.
We cannot get rid of these stains ourselves. We've had it stripped,
cleaned and resealed several times but to no avail. So we are now
to the point that because of our beautiful countertops, we cannot
use our kitchen in its normal intended fashion.
Is this normal for granite? Is black granite different? Does Indian
granite have any unique characteristics? Any suggestions? Dave,
May 14,Reply |
| R1:
Dear Dave: Black Jet Indian granite is one of the best that money
can buy. It’s virtually bullet-proof and nothing can etch it,
unless … some “Michelangelo” applied some impregnator/sealer
on it thinking that it was granite! I am afraid, however,, that your
case is different and worse than that. It reached my attention the
recently another type of Indian Black granite entered the market and
it turned out to be a “mutt” stone. Which means that it
contains a certain percentage of Calcium Carbonate. If that’s
your case, then it’s hopeless, but you do have a case. In fact,
you’re not supposed to have those sorts of problems, and you
can easily take your fabricator to court on the grounds that black
“granite” is not supposed to behave like that. Maurizio,
Expert Panelist |
| R2:
Hey
Dave,While you wait for your lawsuit to recoup your losses, try some
Oxalic Acid. It may clean it up. Jim |
| R3:
HOW
IN THE WORLD WOULD YOU TAKE YOUR FABRIACTOR TO COURT BASED ON THE
GROUNDS THAT THERE STONE ISNT BEHAVING PROPERLY??? GO TELL MOTHER
NATURE!! ITS PEOPLE LIKE YOU THAT CAUSE FABRICATORS TO PUT ARBITRATION
CLAUSES IN THERE CONTRACTS. ITS NOT THE FABRICATORS JOB TO ENSURE
THE STONE PREFORMANCE. ITS THERE JOB TO BE AN ARTISAN, AND PREFORM
THE WORK ON THE STONE THAT IS CHOSEN BY THE CLIENT!! TO TAKE THEM
TO COURT WOULD BE TO BLAME THEM FOR SOMEHTHING THAT IS NOT THERE RESPONSIBILITY.
NOW, IF THERE IS A BULLNOSE THAT FALLS OFF, OR A PEICE OF THE COUNTER
TOP THAT COMES UP THEN YOU HAVE A CASE, BUT UNTIL THEN, LEAVE YOUR
FABRICATOR OUT OF IT, AND EITHER GET IT RE-DONE WITH ANOTHER STONE
SELECTION, OR LIVE WITH YOUR NON-INVESTIGATIVE CHOICE OF STONE. SORRY
TO SOUND SO BRASH AND INSENSITIVE, BUT I WORK FOR A FABRICATOR AND
I THINK THE PERSONS SUGGESTION TO TAKE YOUR FABRICATOR TO COURT IS
OUTRAGEOUS AND I TAKE IT PERSONAL. |
Q
6710: We
are having problems with staining of our kitchen counter. The invoice
description is "Volcano Black Granite" and we were told
it is from India.
It stains vey badly with lemon, lime and tomato juices and other substances.
Pots, pans, dishes and glasses sometimes leave rings if they are wet.
The installer has stripped, polished and resealed a few times, but
to no avail. Frequently, the old stains reappear after a few days
and new stains continue to occur. We are beginnin to wonder if we
have marble or some stone other than granite.
We
had black granite counters in an apartment for six years (and it
was six years old when we moved in). In the six years we lived there,
we never stripped, polished or resealed and we never had a stain
of any sort whatsoever. And we used that counter in the same way
we are useing this one. HELP PLEASE! Dave, May
13, Reply
|
| R1:
Maybe you could use black Slate, it is very resistent, you could use
any kind of acid to clean slate. Rogerio |
| R2:
try
funisher oil on your countertop,it will darkin them a little ,but
will seal and should cover all the stains. it might take a few coats.
try it first in a small hidden area. it has saved me many times with
slate. Fred |
Q
6709: I
appreciate the input regarding our flagstone. We were told to seal
the flagstone with a penetrating sealer to keep it from breaking down
over the years, and to help bring out the color. The stone has many
plant fossils, with beautiful purples and light terra cotta colors
that look like ripples of water. I don't know if the stone was damp
when the sealer was applied, but it was when the strippers were applied
(muriatic acid and some other commercial stripper 'Mirstrip'). As
far as being immersed in salt water, I'm pretty sure that didn't happen.
Re: water with sulfates...who knows?
So, you think the only salvation is to turn it over? Of course, we
spent days going over it picking the most interesting/beautiful side.
There's no remedy you know of to bring it back? Thanks for your help!
Carrie, May
11, Reply |
| R1:
Well
Carrie, I sure hope that your "flagstone" was not a limestone,
or a calcitic sandstone. Flagstone is a descriptive term, that is
used for stones of many different compositions.If it contains any
calcite, than those acid based "strippers" (what were you
stripping anyway) have damaged your stone. It's a shame that some
stone installers don't know squat about the stone they work with.
Good luck, JVC |
| Q
6708: We
have a marble top table were we eat our meals and their are numerous
water marks on it from glasses. What can we do to restore the table
with out these marks and bring back its luster? I did use turtle wax
to buff it out, and it did improve somewhat, however it is as if it
requires something a bit more coarse to remove the stains, and after
that is accomplished, can I put a seal on it to protect it?
May 11,
Reply |
| R1:
Dear Richard: You can take a look at my marble repair kit. It may
not work on all your “water stains” (BTW, they are acid
etches), but it will give you a nice improvement. As for the “miracle
sealer” to avoid those sorts of “stains”, there’s
no such animal. At least not yet! Ciao and good luck, Maurizio, Expert
Panelist |
| Q
6707: We're
new to the granite world and just had our first countertops installed.
Granite was suggested by our cousin's boyfriend who,supposedly, has
been installing granite in multi-million dollar homes for 30 years.
We aren't from those neighborhoods so he suggestedgetting pre-fab
slabs and he would do the fabrication and installation at a "discount."
Unfortunately,
our education (mostly from your site, findstone.com) is coming after
we started having problems, including the installeravoiding our
calls. The questionable granite is almond-mauve, which we've learned
is more absorbent than other granites.
What
happened: About 2 hours after the installer left we started noticing
darkening circles on the surface...right about where he hadput gobs
of Liquid Nails adhesive to fix it to the plywood. It's been 3 weeks
now and the stains aren't going away. We've tried anacetone/paper
towel poultice for about 4 hours and that didn't have any impact.
Any suggestions? I did put down a fluropolymer sealer on secondday...should
I remove that and try the poultice again? Help! Steve, May 11,
Reply
|
| R1:
Dear Steve: How do you want it, sugar coated, or right in between
your eyes? That guy’s been installing granite countertop in multi-million
dollar homes and he recommends pre-fab?? WOW!!! And the he uses Liquid
Nail to bond the stone to the plywood?? Triple WOW!!! That “Michelangelo”
is amazing all right! I’m wondering if they install granite countertops
in jail. He could make a career there where he belongs!! Bottom line:
it’s terminal. Those stains will never come out. Silver lining:
Hey, it’s only money! :-( :-) Ciao and good luck, Maurizio, Expert
Panelist |
| R1:
Steve,
I work for a fabricator near Houston, and Maurizio is absolutely correct.
No custom fabricator with any resemblance of ethics would recommend
pre-fab granite. It is an alarming trend, and I firmly believe it
will damage the industry unless the general public is educated soon.
Secondly, on top of the "Michaelangelo" as Maurizio put
it, Almond Mauve is a terrible choice of stone. If I were you, I would
find the installer, literally hunt him down, and make him do right
be the installation, by whatever means necessary. Liquid nails, or
any type of "oil-based" adhesive should ever be used with
granite installation. So sorry for your situation. Alisha
|
| Q
6706: We
have a slate fire place and wish to enhance the color to the "wet
look" using a sealer. Can you recommend a sealer for this purpose.
Dick Drew, May
11, Reply |
|
R1:
Dear Dick: My outlandish MB-6 stone color enhancer is “your
man!” It will give you the same depth of color as when the
slate is wet. Maurizio, Expert Panelist
|
| Q
6705: We
are building a home and would like to put Brazilian or Indian natural
slate in the kitchen, dining, foyer, and mudroom areas. We have infloor
heat with a concrete pour. Is this slate a good choice? Are there
special precautions I should know about when treating and installing.
Are some areas more suited for this type of slate than others? Any
information would be very helpful. Thanks, Amanda, May 11,
Reply |
| R1:
Dear Amanda: In a nutshell: STAY AWAY FROM SLATE, PERIOD! And don’t
forget to thank me! Ciao and good luck, Maurizio, Expert panelist |
| Q
6704: Can
you tell me how to maintain my granite countertops. Also is granite
easily chipped or damaged? Also is the granite completely sealed by
the seller and should it be sealed by the installer as well? Thank
you, Helen, May
11, Reply |
| R1:
Dear Helen: Unless the slab get resined by the factory, no “granite”
comes sealed by the seller. Is the fabricator who’s supposed
to seal it with a good-quality stone impregnator as part of the job,
IF the particular “granite” at hand needs to be sealed at
all. About the shipping, some “granite” is more prone to
chipping than others. Maurizio, Expert Panelist |
| Q
6703: Please
help!! I have a 2 year old bathroom countertop that is granite and
was never sealed. I never knew you had to seal granite and now there
are lots of water spots on it. How can I properly remove these water
spots so I may seal the countertop?? Please help. I’ve tried
cleaners, vinegar and distilled water, rubbing alcohol, Michelle,
May 11,
Reply |
| R1:
Dear Michelle:
You obviously have a marble countertop. Granite does not get “water
stains.” “Water stains” do not exist: they are surface
damages (etches) occurring on contact between the surface of calcite-based
stones (marble, travertine, etc.) and pH active liquids (acids and
certain bases). Vinegar for instance is an acid (acetic) and further
damaged your stone. No sealer is available to prevent that. At this
point in time you need too see a professional stone refinisher who
will asses the real nature of your stone first, and then suggest a
course of action that will most likely imply the restoration of your
vanity top by honing and re-polishing it. Maurizio, Expert Panelist
|
| Q
6702: I
want to put durango limestone on my countertops in my kitchen. What
must i know about the upkeep and care of the stone. any advice is
greatly welcomed, May
11, Reply |
| R1:
Dear : What you want to know about Durango is the following: It is
not a limestone: it’s rather a travertine. (Which is better than
limestone.) You do not want it as material for a kitchen countertop.
Ciao and good luck, Maurizio, Expert Panelist |
| Q
6701: I’m
having Baltic brown granite installed in my kitchen next week. Any
advise on sealing, cleaning etc. I’ve read a lot on your information
and have heard some of the old wives tales. Windex, not windex, no
409 etc. Should I do the lemon juice test first and then go from there.
I have 3 kids and I need something I can use daily to clean up the
counters. HELP Thanks, Bridget, May
11, Reply |
| R1:
Dear Bridget: Baltic brown is a very good choice
if you get a top-grade slab. It typically does not need to be sealed
with an impregnator, but it’s one of those stone that could presents
variation of absorbency between a bundle of slabs and the next. Therefore
the application of a good-quality stone impregnator/sealer like my
outlandish MB-4 could be a good bet. To find out, you can run a little
test with some water and some cooking oil (don’t bother with
the lemon juice: Baltic Brown will NOT etch). Let the two liquids
sit on the surface of a piece of scrap (possibly from the same slab)
for ten minutes or so, and then wipe it dry. If under either one of
the two liquids you will notice a slight darkening of the stone, then
you will apply an impregnator/sealer. Maurizio, Expert Panelist |
| R2:
This
gentleman does not have a granite counter top in his current digs.
The previous experience was proper for granite which is impervious
to acidic fruit juices. It sounds as though his vendor supplied a
carbonate based rock, such as a black marble (probably dyed) or a
dolomite (also dyed). Silica based rock will not stain as he describes.
His vendor's tail is the crack! Bob |
| Q
6700: We
have some chipped travertine that we just installed...what can we
use to fix this problem? May 11, Reply |
| R1:
Dear Kiersten: There’s only one thing that I suggest you to do:
make a telephone call and have your installer come back and fix the
problem. Maurizio, Expert Panelist |
| Q
6699: We
have purchased a home that has four ornate marble columns supporting
a small marble porch. The overall effect is beautiful, and the installation
appears to have been performed well. However, the marble is very pink
and has grey veins (I don't know the specific variety, but it was
imported from China). We are curious as to whether it would be possible
to apply some kind of glaze or other semi-opaque coating to tone down
the color of the marble, while still being able to see some of the
underlying features of the stone. If so, are there any products you
would recommend? If glazing is not possible, is it practical to paint
marble? The surface of the marble is somewhat rough, and does not
appear to have been sealed. Any advice would be appreciated. M.R.
May 11, Reply |
| R1:
Dear Martin: Just forget about the whole painting and glazing thing.
Just learn how to appreciate the real color of the stone. Ciao and
good luck, Maurizio, Expert Panelist |
| Q
6698: My
husband and I are considering installing granite slab counters in
our home. The actual installation (from what we have seen/read) does
not appear to be the tricky part, more in the handling of the slabs.
Is it as brittle as I am gathering? How risky would it be to lift
a 3x8 slab if carried by 4-5 men? We are worried about breaking the
slabs during handling, although we are prepared to treat them as if
they were glass. I understand the main concern is the slabs must be
supported properly. My husband is quite skilled in carpentry &
masonry, but has just never done slab counters before. paying the
$40/sq.ft. for installation seems ridiculous to us. Any thoughts/idea/input
is appreciated. Thanks. May
11, Reply |
R1:
Dear Roslyn: And what do you expect me to do? Give you detailed guidelines
on how to carry a granite slab inside the house and pose it on top
of your cabinets??
There’s no such a thing, but if I had to summarize it, my guidelines
would be: “Do it very carefully!” It shouldn’t be too
difficult, but as a professional I can’t advise you to do it
yourself. Ciao and good luck, Maurizio, Expert Panelist |
| Q
6697: The
marble flooring in my house seems to have lots of brown patches now.
What is the best way to maitain marble flooring? It would be helpful
if you could inform what should regularly be used for cleaning the
marble flooring and what to be avoided. Also pointing to any web site
where more information is available on this would be ver helpful.Thanks,
Manjula, May
11, Reply |
Dear
Manjula Rao, First of all , what are the brown patches of ?
There are two distinct posibilities:
(a) These are rust stains. These have developed over the years because
of rusting (oxidation) of the iron particles in the stone because
of regular wet mopping or due to atmospheric oxidation.
(b) These brown patches may be just accumulation of dirt over the
polished stone. This is more likely to happen if you had wax polished
your stone at the time of laying.
Both the possibilities can be treated but removal or Iron stains is
a very time consuming and lengthy process and is never realy followed.
Only in cases of stones of historical value etc. the process is employed.
In case of dust deposit the same can be treated by washing with a
(1) stripper, (2) Dirt cleaner & (3) treatment with a stoneguard
(penetreating sealer).
If you are interested the same can be arranged from a dealer from
your area or you can buy it directly from the manufacturer. Regards,
Arun |
| Q
6696: I
am considering putting slate in my bathroom floor and walls, including
the walls in the tub area. I am really concerned that the maintenance
will be too much. Is it true that it will need to be sealed every
year at least once? Is this a very involved process or do you just
need to spray it with some stuff? thanks, Judy, May
11, Reply |
| R1:
Dear Judy: Forget about the sealing thing. You wouldn’t be solving
a thing with that. You do NOT want slate anywhere on your house but
the roof, period!Ciao and good luck, Maurizio, Expert Panelist
|
| Q
6695: Do
you have any parameters in inspecting rough granite blocks,or is the
usual method of pouring water over the surface and observing with
the naked eye for any fractures or patches?any instruments which can
agument the procedure? Naven, May
10, Reply |
| R1:
Dear
Naven, What are you looking for in those rough blocks? Are they just
ordinary commercial blocks or are they really "rough" blocks.
Why would you want to buy "rough" blocks? Is it because
they are really cheap and you are not sure what you are getting for
a low price? Assuming you meant commercial blocks there are many things
that can be done. However, the more certainty you want the more sophisticated
the techniques and the more expensive they will be. If there are several
hundred "suspect" blocks that you are trying to buy for
a good price then it is worth getting a pulse velocity generator to
measure the speed through the stone. Fractures will greatly reduce
the speed from one side to the other so at least you know if there
is a fracture in the block. If you are trying to inspect for colour
or texture uniformity you can polish the ends of the blocks but this
is a lot of trouble to go to. If you are looking for mineralogical
consistency then you might want to take small samples and do petrographic
analyses. Apart from that a pressure hosing is a good first approximation.
(Dr. Hans) |
| Q
6694: I
can't thank you enough for your site. We recently purchased black
galaxy countertops. After the installation I noticed that the island
had surface scratches. The installer returned attempted to buff the
counter and ended up taking it back for polishing. I initially insisted
on a new counter, but of course a match from the same slab was not
available. He "polished" the counter I inspected it and
it was reinstalled. However, under direct light the center of the
island has lost its sheen. I am ready to hire somone else. Is there
anything I can do. Thanks, Ty in NJ, May
10, Reply |
| R1:
Dear Ty in NJ: No, there’s nothing that you can do. Do not accept
that island and hire someone else. Ciao and good luck, Maurizio, Expert
Panelist |
Q
6693: We
just recently have granite countertops (black pearl) installed in
our kitchen. When the installers were placing the pieces, my wife
noticed fissures in two areas. One of them runs all the way to the
edge of the stone and measure 8 inches in length - you can easily
feel it by just running your fingers on it. The other one is on a
separate piece, about 7-8 inches in length and somewhere in the middle
of the 2 foot long width of the stone - you have to run your fingernails
on it to feel it. When we pointed them out to the granite guys, they
said, the first one that runs all the way to the edge was their fault,
as it is deeper and runs to the edge. For the other one, their reaction
was different, they said it is really very minor and could show up
in granites from time to time. So their suggestion is to buff it up
and see if we like it - plus give us a life-time warranty in case
something happens due to the fissure. In summary, they are going to
replace the first piece and will buff up the 2nd one.
My question is, should we accept the 2nd piece in its fixed condition
if the fissure is invisible w/ the written life-time warranty or should
we ask them to replace the whole thing? Thanks in advance for your
response. Regards, Celal,
May 10, Reply |
| R1:
Dear Celal: I am impressed!! Yours is a fabricator who takes responsibility
for their mistakes! The first one is a crack; the second one is natural
fissure in the stone. Go along with what your fabricator said and
consider yourself fortunate and be glad that you’re dealing with
such responsible outfit! Now, remember, it’s never too early
to think about the proper maintenance of your stone. It’s a subject
that’s all too often neglected and, as you can tell by reading
many of this site’s postings, you’re not likely to get good
information about it from your dealer or installer. Maurizio, Expert
Panelist |
| Q
6692: I
have a black and grey swirl granite floor throughout my foyer, kitchen
and dining room. I have had it for 7 years. I am having trouble maintaining
it. I usually clean it with ammonia and hot water. There is a cloudy
haze that I cannot get rid of. What should I do? I asked a granite
cleaning specialist and he suggested that I diamond crystalize the
floor and then buff it. He wanted to charge me $500.00. The area is
500 square feet. Does that seem right? Please let me know. Thanks,
May 10, Reply |
| R1:
Dear: That “granite cleaning specialist” is a total quack!
If your floor needs to be restored (refinished) you would be looking
at something like $7,500.00 (I’m NOT kidding). For $500.00 tat
“professional” going to screw up your floor, I promise!
The word “crystallize” alone speaks volume about that guy!
Get rid of him! Now the question is: does your floor need to be refinished?
In the kitchen, maybe; in the other areas probably not. Do you have
this “haze” all over, or only in the kitchen? Using water
and ammonia is not a good thing to do, but, hopefully the stone did
not get permanently damaged. You’re in direct contact with me
now. Answer my question above and then we’ll take it from there.
Ciao and good luck, Maurizio, Expert Panelist |
| Q
6691: We
have installed alot of 3 rivers flagstone throughout our yard. As
an experiment, my landscaper put a sealer/polish on a portion of it,
and it looks beautiful. He then (at the advice of the stone yard)
put a different sealer on the rest of the yard. When he put the polish
on, a white sediment came up on most of the stones. He was told to
strip it, then put the polish on again. The white is much worse. He
has now stripped the stone multiple times with stone stripper, at
the last using straight muriatic acid. At this point, the stone is
almost solid white and does not resemble anything like the original
bold colored stone we put in. Is there anything we can do to get rid
of this sediment?? Thanks so much to anyone who can help!! Carrie,
in California, May 10, Reply |
| R1:
Hello
Carrie, There is a lot of information missing and I've encountered
a few different strippers but I don't know what a stone stripper is.
It sounds to me as though the river flagstones could have been damp.
After the sealer was applied there is a likelihood that you are witnessing
efflorescence being deposited on the surface which is emanating from
the stone. It could even be silicate bloom. Is there a possibility
that the flagstone was immersed in salt-water or in water containing
sulphates? Why on Earth would you want to seal flagstone?? Turn it
over, split it in half, or whatever, but don't seal it! (Dr. Hans),
Expert Panelist |
| Q
6690: Want
giallo Veneziano counter installation, includes back splash and under-mounted
sink, approximately 140 square foot price. Also, will wall paper have
to be removed from back splash area before installation? Susan, May
07, Reply |
R1:
Dear Susan: Besides the wallpaper issue (yes, it’s best to have
it removed) what’s the question? My first comment would be that
at that price they’d better be darn good!!
Maurizio, Expert Panelist |
| Q
6689: I
am about to buy and install honed travertine floors in my home. I
wanted to know if you have any opinion regarding the quality of 18"x18"
Selendi Beige travertine tiles (first grade) from Turkey. Also, I
read conflicting advice regarding the spacing on these tiles. I want
to install them butt-joint rather than using a 1/16" spacing.
When butt-joining, can't I apply sealant at the joints to prevent
water filtration. Thanks, Julio, May
07, Reply |
| R1:
Dear Julio: It’s a good stone.No, you do NOT want to butt-joint.
1/16 gap is your man! No, a sealer wouldn’t stop the water from
going in between tiles.Now, remember, it’s never too early to
think about the proper maintenance of your stone. It’s a subject
that’s all too often neglected and, as you can tell by reading
many of this site’s postings, you’re not likely to get good
information about it from your dealer or installer. Maurizio, Expert
Panelist |
| Q
6688: I
beleive the stone is rrefered to as Verde Marnoce.It has large rocks
in it of various sizes shapes and colors.The body is mainly green.It
seems to have alot of heavy quartz crystals in some of the rocks.The
problem I'm having is the installer is having a hard time with the
slabs cracking, even though the stone has a mesh/epoxy backing.He
laid the first slab today and there are 2 definite cracks in the slabs.(more
by the sink area, in front and behind) Is this normal to have that
many cracks in the stone??I went back to the yard already once to
pick out another slab,(one of ours was cracked in half) and ALL the
slabs (green marnce)were cracked pretty much 1/3 of the way down.
Any advice in this matter would be greatly appreciated..Thanks...Ron,
May 07,
Reply
|
| R1:
Dear
Ron: Jeez, man! With all the beautiful and worry-free greens that
there are out there you must insist in that crap??! You do NOT want
to accept those cracks by the sink (those areas should have been rodded
by your fabricator), but it looks to me that insisting on that stone
you’re really looking for trouble. In the hands of the “right
guy” you could get away with it and live happily ever after,
but it doesn’t seem to be the case here.Ciao and good luck, Maurizio,
Expert Panelist |
| Q
6687: I
have read on your Website's discussion list that it is bad to switch
granite sealers. But I have not seen an explanation for this warning.
My granite company originally sealed my granite (Blanco Romano) with
a StoneCare penetrating sealer product (Stoneguard) which is solvent
based. I am thinking about two switches. First, I would like to use
a water based penetrating sealer. Second, I am thinking about using
a product manufacturer other than StoneCare. What exactly is the risk
to my granite if I do either (or both) of these things? Thanks. Mike,
May 07, Reply
|
R1:
Dear Michael: There are a few cases scenario.
1.Solvent-carried + solvent-carried. In many instances nothing happens,
but the performance of the second impregnator could be limited. In
certain other instances there may be incompatibility between the two
products in the form of blotchy, unsightly stains.
2.Solvent-carried + water carried. The possibility of non-compatibility
does not exist. However there’s no guarantee that the second
impregnator will work at its best.
3.Water carried + solvent carried. Se point 1. above.
4.Water- carried + water carried. See point 2. above.
That said, in the majority of the instances, applying a water-carried
product after a solvent-carried product, presents no risk and it will
work just fine. But if the second sealer will not perform at its best
it can’t be fairly judged on its merit. Any other questions?
You’re in direct contact with me now.Ciao and good luck, Maurizio,
Expert Panelist |
Q
6686: My
partner has white Kashmir granite in his apartment (kitchen/ bathroom).
The week before last, we went on a short holiday and forgot to empty
our fruit bowl (wire type bowl) before we left. Whilst we were away,
the banana's in the bowl went "off" and opened up and seeped
beneath the bowl and onto the granite. It left quite a large stain.
I tried a product called "Oil-Ex" which has been effective
for oil stains, however, after 3 tries (upon advice from a granite
provider in our home town) the stain is still there, and in fact has
gone bigger as the product I applied was slightly larger than the
stain and it seems that this has now stained it also.
Any advice you would have would be GREATLY appreciated. The kitchen
is centrepiece of the apartment and the stain is in a very obvious
place.
Thanks in advance for your time and I hope to hear from you soon.
Best regards, Natasha, May
07, Reply |
R1:
Dear Natasha from Down-Under: How could you possible expect to remove
an organic stain with an oil stain remover?? :-(
When it comes to stain removal, either you buy one of those expensive
“Professional kits” (that no true professional ever uses!)
at a stone retailer near you, or you can spend less money and get
my comprehensive guidelines on how to remove stains by using inexpensive
and far more effective means that you may already have in your household!
Such impressive piece of literature will also tell you how to tell
stains apart from “stains”, and what to do about the latter!
It does carry a small price tag, and you can order it through our
EDUCATIONAL LITERATURE Maurizio, Expert Panelist |
| Q
6685: We
just had a Brazilian Santa Celia Granite installed 2 weeks ago. It
is of medium shades of rust, brown, white, and black with speckles
of cranberry. Today I noticed it absorbed water that was on the counter
under a cutting board for about 3 hours. Where the water was, the
granite darkened. It appears to be drying up and lightening at the
moment. Is this normal? What if a beverage like soda or tea remained
on top of the granite? Would it stain permanantly? Our granite is
sealed. We were told it would never need to be resealed. Is that true
as well? What do you recommend in order to maintain the shine? Thanks,
D. Bas, May
07, Reply |
R1:
Dear D. Bas: Your granite is sealed?? So why did it absorb all that
water?
It will never need to be re-sealed again?? I thought that offering
a 10-year warranty on my MB-4 was a pretty darn good feature already!
Besides, considering the results, who cares how long that “amazing
sealer” will last?! :-)
Your concerns about the absorption of liquids other than water are
legit.
Should you decide to purchase one, you will be entitled to ask for
our maintenance guidelines at no charge, just for the asking! Maurizio,
Expert Panelist |
| Q
6684: I
have a small stone patio and am finding because it is cheap we are
getting a lot of dust of the slabs. Would a silicon based sealer sort
this out and what do you recommend? Many thanks for your help and
time in this matter. May
07, Reply |
| R1:
Dear
Ian: I usually never answer questions like that, but this one is …
“Unique!” Because your slab is cheap the dust accumulates
on it?? Are you perhaps implying that the dust in your neck of the
woods is selective and deposits only on cheap stuff, while leaving
the more expensive one clean?? Does you dust know about prices??!!
You’re just kidding, aren’t ya! Let me tell ya, you almost
got me!! :-) Maurizio, Expert Panelist |
| Q
6683: My
family wants marble in the bathrooms (walls, floor and countertop).
We are looking for a fairly subdued beige color like crema marfil.
Your website makes it clear that we should stay clear of limestones.
But what about crema marfil which the website indicates is really
a limestone? Are there any true marbles that look similar? Thank you.
Joanne, May
07, Reply |
R1:
Dear Joanne: Crema Marfil is not just limestone: is compact limestone.
In fact it’s denser than marble and just as good if not better
for the use you intend to do.
Go for it, but keep in mind that you will have to be concerned about
maintenance starting right now! There’s nothing difficult about
it, but the lack of specific intelligence will lead to lots of troubles!
I.e.: if the tiles inside the shower enclosure are not set in the
right way, you will have an installation failure down the road! Maurizio,
Expert Panelist |
Q
6682: My
query is related to Limestone countertops and would like it directed
to Stephen from Canada. I am building a new home this summer (Almonte,
Ont. Canada Just outside of Ottawa) and would like to know your expert
opinion on installing limestone countertops. I like the soft look
of limestone but will it stand up in the kitchen?
Also, I was looking at installing limestone tiles and the entrances
and in the bathrooms of the home. Again, your expert opinion is welcomed.
Lastly, do you know of any retailers in and around the Ottawa area?
Thanks, Kevin, May 07, Reply |
| Q
6681: I
just discovered your site and will refer customers to it from now
forward. This will save me some time in of finding a diplomatic way
to explain that inclusions, veining and irregularities are part of
the beauty of natural stone, and shouldn't be considered defects.
In reading many of the posted questions on your site, I heard echoes
of what clients regularly ask me. They seem to expect that granite
and other stones will be absolutely consistent in pattern, will perform
forever without maintenance, and are the single answer to all their
countertop desires. Thank you for your honest and frank responses.
To my knowledge, there is no single material for countertops that
is maintenance-free, heat-proof, unbreakable, free of inclusions and
comes in a variety of styles and colors to please the American sensibilities.
Many clients not only expect this level of performance, but they also
want a lifetime guaranty and for a price comparable with laminated
countertops. If you come across such a product, would you please let
me know? May
04, Reply |
| Q
6680: What
are the problems with using slate on the floor? Can they be avoided?
Are they type specific (comparing China to Vermont, for example)?
Is there any honed granite countertop that is relatively maintenance
free (without turning it black with a color enhancer)? Does everyone
think that the honed finish is a bad idea (I know Maurizio does)?
What are the problems with onyx? When can and can't it be used and
why? May
04 , Reply |
| R1:
All the time. No. If they could they wouldn’t be problems any
more. Not really. Nope. Same problems as with marble. The only difference
is that it’s even more delicate. Mauizio, Expert Panelist |
| Q
6679: I have a brand new (3 weeks old) absolute black "granite"
counter. I know the counter has been sealed. I am already getting
"stains" which I suspect is the etching of the sealant rather
than the stone itself. I do not know what sealant was used. One stain
is from ginger ale and another from salad dressing. Now please realize
that I am not a complete slob, but I don't hover over my counter with
a damp rag either to mop up spills. I believe in order for a kitchen
counter to be functional you need to have a little flexibility.
Having
said all this, I have read through your website and have pretty
much decided that the sealant is the problem and must be removed.
I wish I had found this info before ordering my counter but ....My
fabricator wants to have no part of that procedure so it is up to
me to do it. I have seen advice ranging from right angle buffer
with oxalic acid, to acetone and paint stripper. Please advise the
best way for me to do this with minimum disruption as I actually
use my kitchen. Thank you for your help. Sara, May 04 , Reply
|
| R1:
Dear Sara: Boy, you sure did your homework!! You’re darn straight:
you should be able to use and abuse your granite countertop with no
worries, and black absolute is ideal for doing just that. What really
bugs me is to learn that your fabricator doesn’t want to have
any part of that, considering that they were so stupid to create the
problem. If I were you I would demand them to rectify their wrongdoing
and I wouldn’t take no as an answer. Removing an impregnator/sealer
is not easy for a homeowner. The handling of a right-angle buffer
with oxalic acid is better left to a professional stone refinisher.
If you really want to do it yourself, then use a paint stripper based
on Methylene Chloride. Nasty stuff! Follow all precautionary directions
and warnings printed on the can. After that, you WILL care for your
countertop in the right way, won’t you?! :-) Maurizio, Expert
Panelist |
| R2:
If
an impregnating sealer was used you can apply Stain-Proof (2 coats)
an Australian product that will go into your stone through the other
impregnating sealer and protect it against any oil based or water
based stains. There would be no need to remove the previous sealer.
Stain Proof is alcohol based so it's not carcinogenic and the "alcohol"
smell dissipates quite rapidly. For an even better seal on black absolute
one coat of Stain-Proof followed by one coat of Dry Treat's Porcelain
sealer is even stronger. Bob |
| Q
6678: We
are seriously considering using Bianco Romano tile in our showers
in our new home because it is beautiful. It is white with burgundy
spots. But I am very concerned about it's practicality. I do not find
Bianco Romano in your list of World's Most Popular Granites".
Are you familiar with this "granite" from Brazil? Can you
give me any advice on it? Thank you for your response. Rose,
May 04
, Reply |
| R1:
Dear Rose: Bianco Romano is a wonderful stone. Very durable, too!
It will require some serious sealing with my “best in the whole
universe and beyond” MB-4 impregnator/sealer! Keep also in mind
that the way those tiles will be installed is of paramount importance.
I’ve seen all too many shower installation failures due to poor
installation techniques. Read all about it in my maintenance guidelines
for residential stone installations which are available on pay-per-download
format on the EDUCATIONAL LITERATURE Maurizio, Expert Panelist |
| R2:
Rose,
also consider Stain-Proof. I will protect your stone from stains,
make it easier to clean and prevent water from being absorbed by the
stone and grout. It also protects against efflorescence - white calcium
carbonate deposits caused when salts from the underlying substrata
reach the surface and react with air. Bob |
| Q
6677: I
found your web site while in search for some way to clean the black
mildew (or something) from the face of the sandstones that are around
my home. It was built around 1913 and needs to be cleaned.I have tried
pressure washing (2850 psi @ 2.9 gpm) but that doesn't really get
the worst of it. I suppose that I am looking for something magical,
but, there may be a way. Thanks for any information you can provide
or refer me to. Frank, May
04 , Reply |
| R1:
Dear Elna: Power-washing should work. It all depends on the chemical
you used to power-wash your sandstone with. You’re in direct
contact with me now. Let me know what you used and then we’ll
take it from there. Ciao and good luck, Maurizio, Expert Panelist |
R2:
Once you get the stone cleaned, if you apply Stain-Proof which prevents
water and oil based stains from being absorbed into stone it will
reduce future mildew infestation and make them easier to clean. This
is because stone treated with Stain-Proof will repel water. Since
the stone
can't absorb water the organism can only lightly adhere to the surface
as there will be no water in the stone to nourish it. Future cleaning
could be accomplished by a light bleach and water mixture. Bob |
| Q 6676:
I have
a question regarding a recent granite install. My tile installer laid
a pattern of travertine and granite (combination of Black Galaxy and
Emerald Pearl) in my front entrance. Although the granite tiles were
clean and shiny in the box, some now have a "cloudy" or
"hazed" appearance. He has only laid them down with thin
set and has not grouted the area yet. I have tried scrubbing the floor
with clean water, daily stone wash, a heavy duty cleaner by Tile Lab,
as well as lots of elbow grease, but they still have that cloudy appearance.
It looks horrible compared to some of the patterns (same stone) that
are shiny and clear. Any suggestions on how to get them back to their
natural state shy of polishing or removing them? Help!! May 04 ,
Reply |
| R1:
Dear
Laurie: First off I’m a little confused by your opening statement.
You mention a combination of granite and travertine, but then you
mention Black Galaxy and Emerald Pearl – which are both commercial
granite. Where is the travertine? Was it just a typo? That said I
really don’t know what to say about your reported problem. It’s
hard to imagine that your setter could have use any chemical so damaging
to ruin the finish of those two extremely tough stones. Could it be
that they are factory flawed? After all it is my understanding that
not all of the tiles are cloudy. I could even suggest that it could
be some grout film, since the setter has still to grout … Without
actually seeing those tiles I don’t think that anybody could
ever come up with a solution. Sorry. Ciao and good luck, Maurizio,
Expert Panelist |
| Q
6675: Is
there a way to treat a so-called marble (Champlain Black) that's really
a limestone so that it can withstand swimming-pool levels of chlorine
pouring across it for 1400 hours per year? the pH is held at 7.5 -
8.2. This would be in an artificial outdoor stream. Champlain Black
polishes well, so I assume it is a hard limestone. Its real name may
be Crown Point Limestone. Thank you, Joan, May
04 , Reply |
| R1:
Dear
Joan: Being than the pH is going to be kept at a very light alkaline
level I don’t foresee any major problem with Champlain Black
(I am quite familiar with that particular stone) from a chemical reactivity
point of view. Needless to say, you will have to consider some degree
of erosion due to the mechanical activity of the water, however.Ciao
and good luck, Maurizio, Expert Panelist |
| Q
6674: Would
like to seek answer as to why marble based engineered stone in size
600x600x12mm standing alone leaning against the wall for several months
warped slightly in the centre? Is it because of the characteristic
structure of the resin used for engineered stone? May
04 , Reply |
| R1:
Dear Steven: If the manufacturer of the product doesn’t know
why it warps (and I’m sure they’re aware of the problem)
how do you expect that anybody else has an answer to your question??!
Whatever I could theorize about it would only be some mumbo-jumbo
and totally useless to boot! Ciao and good luck, Maurizio, Expert
Panelist |
| Q
6673: Would
like to seek answer as to why marble based engineered stone in size
600x600x12mm standing alone leaning against the wall for several months
warped slightly in the centre? Is it because of the characteristic
structure of the resin used for engineered stone? I'm
planning to install travertine tile in my bathroom on the floor, walls,
and shower (entire enclosure). Is this a good/bad choice, and what,
if any, sealing do I need to apply after the installation? I appreciate
your input. The website is awesome! George, May
03 , Reply |
| R1:
Dear
George: Travertine is indeed an excellent choice, because is quite
a dense stone. If it’s hone-finished then you may want to consider
applying an impregnator/sealer (like my outlandish MB-4) in the shower
enclosure. If it’s polished, you won’t need to seal anywhere.
But … especially is the shower enclosure the way the tiles are
set is critical! All shower stall major problems comes from a poor
installation! Learn all about it by getting my maintenance guidelines
for residential stone installations! They are available on pay-per-download
format on the EDUCATIONAL LITERATURE Ciao and good luck, Maurizio,
Expert Panelist |
| R2:
Also
consider Stain-Proof. I will protect your stone from stains, make
it easier to clean and prevent water from being absorbed by the stone
and grout. It also protects against efflorescence - white calcium
carbonate deposits caused when salts from the underlying substrata
reach the surface and react with air. BOB |
| If only
I would have found this website before installing a new kitchen! Kandis!
|
|
