|
Ask any question, share your knowledge,
or offer your services!
|
| Q
5491: I work with a stone /restoration trading firm in Texas and have a
need to find the correct procedure, materials and equipment for cleaning,
polishing, and sealing limestone. This is part of bathroom refurbishment
where the vanity and other areas have limestone surfaces. Please reply with
information. Thank you. Tim, July
28,
Reply |
| R1:
Tim This is way too much to answer in an email. If you are truly interested
in learning about this, then you need to look into the stone restoration
classes offered through several organizations. I would recommend getting
in touch with Maurizio who is one of the experts on this forum. and he can
point you in the right direction.Good luck, JVC |
| R2:
Dear
Tim: I do believe I have the solution to your problem. Gimme a holler at:
info@findstone.com and get in touch with me. There’s a little fee
involved (as you will be told), but I’ll be glad to help. What’s
more I will even tell you how to get all of your money back! What more do
you want from me? :-) Ciao and good luck, Maurizio, Expert panelist, USA
|
| Q
5490: Can
I put limestone on my shower walls? I rinse hair color off my hair in the
shower and am concerned about staining. Thank, Kathy,
July 28,
Reply
|
| R1:
Dear Kathy: Yes, you should be concerned with limestone. Consider tumbled
marble or hone-finished marble instead. Same look, different "animal".
And don't forget to get the proper intelligence about stone care! You can
get my maintenance guidelines for residential stone installations by giving
me a holler at: info@findstone.com. They do carry a small price tag,
but are worth every single penny and then some! It's a one-of-a-kind document
that you won't find anywhere else, I promise! What's more, I will also tell
you a way to get your money back! Ciao and good luck, Maurizio, Expert panelist,
USA. |
| Q 5489:
We manufacture
and supply direct to our customers, stone fireplaces using smooth finished
sandstone and some limestones. However, on occasions we have a problem with
mortar in the joints causing staining to the surrounding stones. this is
worse when limestone is used. The mortar employed is 5 parts yellow sand
/ 1 part Portland cement.Do you know any alternative mixes that would be
more suitable? Thankyou, Bob, July
28,
Reply
|
| R1:
I don't have a definative answer for you but a few things that may help.
The affected areas should be cleaned with a a wet cloth and lots of water
imediatly after application. Check the type of limestone you are using the
is tremendous disaprity between limestones from diferant locations and some
unsuitable for this use. I Pennsylvania we have a Chathedral with a great
deal of limestone ornamentation gargoyles ets.All the limestone from Kentucy
is falling apart fromthe acid rain while the Indiana limestone is fine.
Perhaps the cement you are using is either too wet or setting too fast.
Lime will slow the reaction, going three parts of sand to one portland would
be a more proper but I would recomend three parts sand to one lime and one
portland.I would also check your water and sand sources as minerals in these
components can easily leech onto the stone. This is a very likely suspect.If
you would like to describe the type of stains in more detail you can contact
me off list at I hope this helps |
| Q 5488:
I purchased
a 6 foot by 2 foot piece of limestone which is a consistent 21/4" thick
throughout from a local Quarry in middle Ontario Canada (right at the start
of the Canadian Shield). The Quarry cut it down to 5 feet in length with
a diamond blade saw. They indicated that there was a way to transform the
cut ends into a more natural look by heating the end with a blow torch and
that it would flake off. I have tried this to the point where the stone
was a bright red, but have only seen one or two little flakes pop off. Is
there a more effective way to flake the ends? If I were to use a small chisel
after heating the limestone would this be effective, yet reduce the risk
of cracking the stone? It is to be used as a fireplace hearth about a 1
1/2 off the ground. Thanks for any help. John in,
July
28,
Reply
|
| R1:
Dear John: It seems to me that they "forgot" to tello you that
the flaming of stone is done with a high-power torch alternating the flaming
with a rush of cold water that's dispensed by a garden hose let running
all the time. In other words, you hold the torch with one hand and the running
hose with the other. You flame for a few seconds, then you hose, then you
flame, etc. Roughing up the surface would help, too. Ciao and good luck,
Maurizio, Expert panelist, USA |
| Q
5487: I
have been carving petroglyphs into limestone, but I recently bought a large
quantity of slab marble. It had marks from quarry cutting that I have sanded
out. But now, before engraving the petroglyphs, I want to polish it. What
can you provide that would bring the marble up to a quality shine?Thanks
for any help you can provide.John Davies, July
28,
Reply
|
| R1:
Dear John Davis: Sure, no problem! All you have to do is attend one of my
classes on stone refinishing. To find out about schedules and fee, gimme
a holler at: info@findstone.com and get in touch with me. There's a
little fee involved (as you will be told), but I'll be glad to help. What's
more I will even tell you how to get your money back! What more do you want
from me? :-)Ciao and good luck, Maurizio, Expert panelist, USA |
| Q 5486:
I have a question
re:my kitchen limestone counter's if you please. They have been installed
for about 6 weeks now. My obsessive husband has sealed the counters at least
7 times already.( I think we're going to go thru a two year supply in 3months!
) Anyhow, I have noticed some areas that are "dry patchy" looking
. It almost looks like a water, like you might see under a glass of water.
What is happening ? And is there any way to help prevent these? I have been
very attentive to these counters- so I'm perplexed as to what is producing
these issues. By the way I have enjoyed reading your sense of humor in your
replys! Take care and thanks for your input. C, July
28,
Reply |
| R1:
Dear C.: Well, one thing is for sure: your limestone countertop will never
get stained! Now, about the "dry patchy looking water stains",
it's a totally different story. They are acid etchings, can't be prevented
with no sealer, and are the very reason why one does NOT want limestone
or any other calcite-based stone in the kitchen! Even my maintenance guidelines
won't help you much, sorry. And, BTW, don't forget to send a deeply heartfelt
thank you note to the dealer who told you that's OK to use limestone in
the kitchen, "just seal it!" … Yeah, right! Ciaop and good
luck, Maurizio Bertoli, Expert panelist, USA |
| R2:
If the sealer you are using is a penetrating sealer,
it should be applied only in thin coats. If you have a thicker spot it should
be wiped up before it has a chance to dry. It's possible that these patches
are sealer build-up. Try putting more of the same sealer on these patches
to dissolve the build-up and then it should wipe right off. LWW |
| Q 5485:
Too bad I did
not find your site before installing limestone for my entire downstairs
of my townhouse. It seems to be very porous and absorbs dirt.For example
after a cleaning and someone walks over the floor you can see their footprints.
I have no idea what type of limestone it is.It is a light beige/off white
color. What should I do to prevent the hassle? Regards, Matthew, July
28,
Reply
|
| R1:
Dear Matthew: You're right, it's just too bad! It sure seems a weird
one all right! Did you have the floor sealed professionally with a good-quality
impregnator/sealer (like my MB-4: see side bar menu of this very page at:
Maurizio's products)? That could help minimizing your problem. Ciao and
good luck,Maurizio Bertoli, Expert panelist, USA |
| Q
5484: We
have installed french limestone throughout our bathroom and shower area.
The shower area shows some white film from soapy products. How can we remove
those? (is a brush with a abrasive product like "Barkeeper's Friend"
Ok.) What is a good product to seal the limestone, it has been a year since
the shower has been sealed. Axel July
28,
Reply |
| R1:
Dear Alex: Yes, and a product of mine, MB-3 is "your man"! You
can access the short version of my maintenance guidelines on the side bar
menu of this very page, but if you want the "real deal" (the complete
version of the guidelines, that is) gimme a holler at: info@findstone.com.
They do carry a small price tag, but are worth every single penny and then
some! It's a one-of-a-kind document that you won't find anywhere else, I
promise! What's more, I will also tell you a way to get your money back!Ciao
and good luck, Maurizio, Expert panelist, USA |
| Q
5483: Two
years ago, we installed 12" square Jerusalem Gold limestone as the
surround for our jacuzzi. Much water accumulates at the tub line and water
has crept behind the tiles as the caulking has softened and broken down.
Needless to say, mildew has grown. After the tub was re-grouted and re-caulked
a few months ago and the Limestone tiles sealed, the mildew started not
only growing through the new caulk but also started growing up through the
veining in the limestone. Yuck! We now dry the tub after we use it, but
we want to get the mildew stain out of our beautiful stone and stop it from
growing again. We heard that we need to remove the sealer on the face of
the tile before using Stone Quest or mildew poltice powder to lift out the
mildew. Can you please give us some professional advice as to how to proceed?
Many thanks, CB, July
28,
Reply |
| R1:
Dear CB: Well, now you know how "important" it is to seal stone!
:) The impregnator/sealer you applied is slowing down the migration of moisture
from the bottom of the tiles to their surface giving it enough time to grow
"things"! Regardless, my friend, unless you will radically solve
the problem of the water going under your tiles, you will always have …
well, a problem! :) And all the best cleaners and sealers and what-have-you
in the world (including mine!) will only be a temporary "band-aid."
Ciao and good luck, Maurizio, Expert panelist, USA |
| Q
5482:We
recently bought a 40 yr. old home with a limestone fireplace. How do I clean
the stone? susie, July
28,
Reply |
| R1:
Dear Susie: I have a product in my line, namely MB-9, that will do the perfect
job for you! Well, almost … you will also need a medium-bristle laundry-type
brush and plenty of elbow-grease! :) Ciao and good luck, Maurizio Expert
panelist, USA |
| Q 5481:
I am trying
to decide between a limestone or travertine kitchen floor. If the floor
is sealed will it be a problem? Any feedback would be appreciated.
July
28,
Reply |
| R1:
While
I must honestly admit that I've seen several successful installations of
limestone tiles (regardless of the room they were installed in) I also saw
enough problems (with no solution) involving limestone to make me conclude
that's not worth the risk considering it. Travertine is more suitable, providing
that it has a honed-finish (NOT polished) and that you learn how to take
proper care of it. Don't become another statistic! You can get my maintenance
guidelines for residential stone installations by giving me a holler at:
info@findstone.com. They do carry a small price tag, but are worth every
single penny and then some! It's a one-of-a-kind document that you won't
find anywhere else, I promise! What's more, I will also tell you a way to
get your money back!Ciao and good luck, Maurizio, Expert panelist, USA |
| |
| Q 5479:
I purchased
a large vase in Taipei, Taiwan in 1980, which the store owner called, "rose-fossil
stone". It's about 20 inches high and weighs about 8-10 pounds. It
is a beautiful, glossy, deep rose marbled stone, with huge amounts of deep
green jade, along with a light-colored vein. The deep rose and jade dominate
about 99% of this piece, which is translucent. I was told this stone was
only quarried in Taiwan, and that this stone was pretty rare around the
world. What is this stone called, and what is this vase worth? I paid $350.00
U.S., as I bartered down from $750.00. Thank you. Jack, New Jersey.
July 28,
Reply
|
| R1:
Dear Jack: What stone it is I don't know. How much is the vase worth? Whatever
you paid for and whatever the next guy who will purchase one is going to
pay for! :) Ciao and good luck, Maurizio, Expert panelist, USA |
| Q 5478:
We are in the
processing of gutting our dining room and turning it into a kitchen. We
are down to the last decision.. countertops. I do not like granite, marble
or corian and would like to use soapstone. When I started going to quarries,
I discovered a slab of limestone that I really liked (Pietra Cordoza from
italy). The salesman told me that it is much more functional than soapstone,
i.e. stains less and is denser. Can somebody tell me the pros and cons of
each? I live in nj and it is hard to find soapstone in the surrounding area.
thanks ellen, July
28,
Reply
|
| R1:
Ellen, Did your salesman also tell you that the limestone being a calcite
based stone will chemically react with anything acidic. Your new kitchen
will be full of those. Anything fromfruit juice to vinegar will etch the
limestone and eat away at the polished surface. Now if you can live with
that, then you can enjoy a limestone counter. Your salesman also gave you
false information about soapstone. It is much denser than limestone, therefore
it does not absorb liquids nearly as fast, and it does not chemically react
with acids. Down side, it is softer than limestone (mineral talc compared
to the mineral calcite), but then a knife will scratch both of these stones.There
are soapstone quarries not far from you,. Good luck, JVC, Expert Panelist |
| R2:
Okay, limestone from around here is NOT denser and less stainable. Maybe
there's some place in the world but I'm not aware of it. Limestone is composed
of small shells from dead sea animals. There is air between these shells
which leads to porosity. Soapstone is very heat and chemical resistant.
This is why it has been used for centuries on fireplaces, counter tops and
laboratory tables. Granite would be less scratchable but soapstone mends
easily.Good luck, Shane, Smith |
| Q 5477:
Can you please tell me, does imperial red granite countertop need to be
sealed or treated with anything to avoid damage? I do not trust the installer
because when I asked him he first said " well it wouldn't hurt"
and then said " well it's a dark enough color that it shouldn't matter
one way or the other." I just looked at him with mouth agape but figured
there was nothing more I should ask of him. Please can you help me? Also,
what should I clean them with day to day? Is there something I can mix at
home or must I purchase a specialty product. Whatever I need to do I will
do. I just need some knowledgeable answers. Thank you so much. Happy Thanksgiving
to you! Renee' July
28,
Reply |
| R1:
I seldom comment about any one particular stone. There may be differences
within the same stone (and I'm not talking about looks, here!) from one
bundle of slabs and the next. The slabs may have also been either "doctored"
(which is bad), or "resined" (which is good) by the factory, which
would make a big difference. Even more important, what's a good stone in
the hands of some "Michelangelo"?!I did write a very comprehensive
article on "How to Shop for a Granite Kitchen Countertop" that
will give you all the intelligence you need to venture yourself with confidence
in the stone industry jungle! It does carry a small price tag, but wouldn't
you rather have me beside you while you're out there?! Gimme a holler at:
info@findstone.com. There's a little fee involved (as you will be told),
but you'll be glad you did. What's more, I will show you a way to get all
of your money back! You can also ask me how to get my comprehensive maintenance
guidelines for residential stone installations. Remember, when it comes
to natural stone, maintenance is an all too important yet neglected subject
that should begin before you even select it, as you can tell from several
of this very site postings! Don't become another statistic! Ciao and good
luck, Maurizio, Expert panelist, USA |
| Q 5476:
We have a new kitchen with a gorgeous piece
of Labrador Antique stone countertop and island top. The 9' x 3' island
has a zigzag shape and 3/4 of the back side (9' side) has approximately
fifteen inches overhanging the cabinets for stools underneath. We just noticed
a hairline fissure at the edge, extending in about 5 inches. The fissure
is apparent to the touch on top, but no noticeable crack is visible underneath.
Because this granite is full of inclusions,you cannot readily notice it.
Should we have the installer insert a rod underneath? They explained (when
the counter was installed 6 mos. ago)that they sometimes cut a groove in
the underside of somes stone and epoxy in a rod to stabilze it. This is
generally only necessary for veiny marble when used as a countertop overhanging
an island. Also, this island top rests on a base of cabinet draws for the
first 2 feet of length, then only has the back panel (1 1/4" thick)
of the island underside to rest on for another 2 feet (undercounter fridge
installed there)before resting on the remaining cabinets. We have a bracket
attached to the cabinet at the far corner, extending 2" from the edge
where the overhang is almost 19". My husband noticed that the silicone
applied underneath lets some light in so he wonders if more shims should
be installed to close the gaps. Finally, is Labrador Antique more prone
to chips/scratches/cracks than other stone? We have found a cuple of "chips"
like small whitish dots on the surface. We don't cut on it and are generally
very careful with it. Thanks for any advice you have! Lepkowsi, July
28,
Reply |
| R1:
Dear Lepkowsi: Where there are stress points, rodding granite is a MUST,
not an option. Second, the industry standards (wow, at least there's one!)
about the over-hang of granite specifies that the maximum over-hang that
does not need to be supported with proper brackets (or corbels) is 10"
for 3cm. (1 ¼") stock, and 8" for its 2 cm. (3/4")
counterpart. The bracket must be installed at a distance of 18" from
one another, should extend almost to the edge of the countertop and in full
contact.Get your fabricator's butt back on the job and demand that they
finish it right. Rodding is too late now, but the brackets (or the corbels)
must be set right and soon. I would stop using that area of your countertop
until the job is done, if I were you. I kid you not! Labrador Antique is
indeed more prone than certain other mercantile granites to chipping and
natural fissures. It much depends on the grading of the slab, though. Now,
remember, it's never too early to think about the proper maintenance of
your stone. It's a subject that's all too often neglected and, as you can
tell by reading many of this site postings, you're not likely to get good
information about it from your dealer or installer (when end-users tell
me that they were advised to use water and dish soap, or regular glass-cleaner,
my Italian blood reaches the boiling point at the speed of light!). Don't
become another statistic! You can get my maintenance guidelines for residential
stone installations by giving me a holler at: info@findstone.com. They
do carry a small price tag, but are worth every single penny and then some!
It's a one-of-a-kind document that you won't find anywhere else, I promise!
What's more, I will also tell you a way to get your money back!Ciao and
good luck, Maurizio, Expert panelist, USA |
| Q 5475:
Hi! We have travertine floors throughout our Florida home. Someone said
that a mixture of vinegar and water was the best way to clean them. Do you
agree? How much white vinegar should I use, if this is a good way to wash
them. Can I polish our marble vanity tops? What can I use? Thanks, Cindy,
July
28,
Reply
|
| R1:
Cindy: If you own a machine gun, don't hesitate to shoot the whole magazine
into the body of the idiot who told you to use water and vinegar. Not only
won't you end up in jail, but I will personally see to it that you get deservedly
rewarded with a medal!! Just take a quick peak at the short version of my
maintenance guidelines in the side bar menu of this very page. Ciao and
good luck, Maurizio, Expert panelist, USA. |
| |
| Q 5473:
I have a black marble fireplace that some
one tried to polish with a stone polish and left a white haze when finished.
I tried cleaning but the haze doesn't come out. It goes away when wet but
comes back when dry. Any suggestions are greatly appreciated. Thank you.
Ken, July
28,
Reply |
| R1:
Dear Keri: It looks to me that the "stone polish" (or whatever
it was) etched the surface of your marble. To do the repair correctly you
would need the services of a poven stone restoration contractor. However,
if you're not too concerned about the "perfect" (and quite expensive!)
job, you could settle with the application of good-quality stone color enhancer.
Gimme a holler at: Maurizo@findstone.com and I'll point you in the right
direction. Ciao and good luck, Maurizio, Expert panelist, USA |
| Q 5472:
I've purchased 12x12 Uba Tuba tiles to install
around my fireplace as a surround and hearth. I want to install over the
existing brick which is painted white. I purchased the Granite and Stone
adhesive from Home Depot for green and black tiles. Can I just install over
the painted surface (it is sound) or do I need to etch/sand first? Jackie,
July
28,
Reply |
| R1:
Dear Jackie: It would be chancy at best. I would acid etch first if I were
you. Ciao and good luck, Maurizio, Expert panelist, USA |
| Q 5471:
My son carved a polar bear from soap stone
in grade 3 and it turned out very well. It is 5 inches long, 2.5 inches
tall and 1.5 inches wide. It is my favourite piece of art. It has fallen
and broken into two pieces along what appears to be a "fault"
in the stone across its shoulder area. Any suggenstions of how it can be
put back to gether. Thanks. BPL, July
28,
Reply |
| R1:
Dear BPL: Epoxy glue would be the best, but it's hard to get and nasty to
handle. Considering the light duty of a figurine, I would settle for regular
household cement. At the end of the job, have your son dust off his good
ol' tools and remove the excess of the glue. Ciao and good luck, Maurizio,
Expert panelist, USA |
| Q 5470:
Our installer just finished a marble tile
installation on the floor and there are marks all over the floor. He says
it's because it was cheap marble. I've been told by others that it's because
he didn't remove the grout fast enough. What do you think it really is?
Thanks, Helen, July
28,
Reply |
| R1:
Dear Helen: What the others said. The cost of the stone has nothing to do
with damages like that (or any other damage, for that matter). Ciao and
good luck, Maurizio, Expert panelist, USA |
| Q 5469:
Hi We build a new house 2 years ago most of
the house has durango tumbled marble stone. The marble was installed on
top of wet bed thats called gyp-crete. About 6 months after we moved in
and noticed cracks in some areas on the floor. The company that install
the gyp-crete said that the reason for the cracks is that the installer
did not use the right thin set. The materials that they recommend is called
hydroment ultra set made by bostik,inc. Our question is if the house is
already settled, will the cracks continue to grow, and can we repair the
cracks with out replacing the floor. Most of the cracks are minor and not
so visible, but some are as long as 10 feet. Simon, July
28,
Reply |
| R1:
Dear Simon: Your guess is as good as mine. To tell you the truth, I
don't even believe what the gyp-crete people told you. Repair them? Maybe.
Get hold of a bona fide stone restoration company and let them guide you
on that. Ciao and good luck, Maurizio, Expert panelist, USA |
| Q 5468:
My sandstone hearth has many different types
of stains. Coffee and/or some type of beverage was spilt on the one corner.
There is also evidence of crayon/marker. I have read your site and feel
the 30/40 volume HP and baby powder would be the best choice in trying to
clean. Is this correct, or should I try the 3 to 1 water/bleach also. If
I do consider using stain or a sealant what do you suggest? Thank you, Jeanie,
July
28,
Reply |
| R1:
Dear Jeanie: If they are inorganic stains, the Hydrogen Peroxide is more
effective than bleach. About staining the stone, I don't know much about
it, other that I don't like the idea. About a sealing job with a good-quality
impregnator for stone, it sounds like an excellent idea. Ciao and good luck,
Maurizio, Expert panelist, USA |
| Q 5467:
What adhesive should I use to put marble or
granite down as interior flooring in kitchen / bathroom, and for kitchen
splashbacks? They are large tiles. Do they need any other preparation other
than adhesive? (eg sealant?), Kat,
July
28,
Reply |
| R1:
Dear Kat: Unless you're dealing with green marble, you don't want to use
any adhesive. Go with latex modified white thin-set. Keep a grout gap of
1/16" and use wall-type grout only. The sealing should be performed
only IF the stone needs to be sealed, and at least a couple of weeks after
installation. Now, remember, it's never too early to think about the proper
maintenance of your stone. It's a subject that's all too often neglected
and, as you can tell by reading many of this site postings, you're not likely
to get good information about it from your dealer. Don't become another
statistic! You can get my maintenance guidelines for residential stone installations
by giving me a holler at: info@findstone.com. They do carry a small
price tag, but are worth every single penny and then some! It's a one-of-a-kind
document that you won't find anywhere else, I promise! What's more, I will
also tell you a way to get your money back! Ciao and good luck, Maurizio,
Expert panelist, USA |
Q 5466:
We just built a new house and have Santa Cecilia
granite counter tops in our kitchen. Although we love the look, the granite
has pits in it and it's not smooth like glass. After wiping it down it still
feels a bit gritty. we've tried cleaning with a sponge and damp paper towels,
but nothing totally cears the grit away. It's almost like grit gets stuck
in the pits and tiny crevices. Anything we should be doing? will sealing
it prevent this? As a result of my husband and myself not being totally
satisfied with the smoothness of our new granite, I did a search on the
wed and found your website. I only wish I new about it before we installed
our granite. Your website has been extremely helpful in understanding the
different properties of granite. For instance I never knew that most granites
on the market are not "true" granites. Anyway, although the Santa
Cecilia ganite we have in
our kitchen is absolutley beautiful, the pitting and the flaking bother
me. Any suggestions? Thank you for your help, Lisa, July
28, Reply |
| R1:
Dear Lisa: No solution, sorry. When you have a stone that does that (usually
orthogneiss), there's nothing that can be done. In most instances Santa
Cecilia does not do that, but in a few case it does. The application of
a sealer for stone - which in consideration of your particular stone should
have been done already and more than once - will do you no good. Even my
maintenance guidelines won't help much. I would try to work thing out with
your fabricator. Ciao and good luck, Maurizio, Expert panelist, USA |
| Q 5464:
I have installed Impala Black Granite on my
kitchen counters and backsplash. Based on your advice (and a 3 hour lemon
test!), I told them not to seal it. They agreed, but made me sign a waiver!
Anyway, what is the best way to maintain my stone? Barry, July
28, Reply |
| R1:
I would LOVE to get to read that waiver! What on earth did they make you
wave away?! :) You can get my maintenance guidelines for residential stone
installations by giving me a holler at: info@findstone.com. They do
carry a small price tag, but are worth every single penny and then some!
It's a one-of-a-kind document that you won't find anywhere else, I promise!
What's more, I will also tell you a way to get your money back! Ciao and
good luck, Maurizio, Expert panelist, USA |
| Q 5463:
I am planning on tiling a couple of counter
tops with 12 inch Tropic Brown tiles using Hardi-backer and possibly their
mastic. I have done ceramic tile before and I have a contractor grade tile
saw. I could not find any books on the subject at Amazon.com so I am writing
you to find out what you have and what it costs. One issue for me is dealing
with the edge that shows. I hear that bullnoseing is hard to do well. I
was thinking about just taking a 45 angle off the edge with my angle grinder
in a sliding jig. I have about 30 edges to do and the tile store wants about
$6 per edge. I am not cheep, it's just that I another kitchen lined up and
it all adds up. Jon, July
28, Reply |
| R1:
Yup, I know what you have to get! Gimme a holler at: info@findstone.com
and get in touch with me. There's a little fee involved (as you will be
told), but I'll be glad to help. What's more I will even tell you how to
get all of your money back! What more do you want from me? :-)Ciao and good
luck, Maurizio, Expert panelist, USA |
| Q 5460:
I have a project I am going to try for some
shelves at my house. I was wondering what the best technique would be for
drilling 1/2" diameter holes, about 5-7 inches into the edge of 1-1/2"
thick sandstone slabs. I am going to use Colorado and Arizona sandstone
acquired from my local landscaping, stone supply as well as stone collected.
I have lots of experience welding and wooodworking, but none with stone.
I have a drill press, air compressor, access to sandblasters, etc. Thanks
for your time. Bob, July
28, Reply |
| R1:
There are special drills for drilling stone whithout
heating it up and thereby cracking it. They are hollow diamond bits with
a interior valve connected to a small hose that is run to a water source.
If you do not have acces to these drill at a slow speed with a air powered
drill to avoid electric shock from the water that you must keep on the stone
and stop frequently to apply water to the interior of the hole. You must
keep the bit from heating up the stone, Richard |
| Q 5459:
I just put crab orchard stone in front of
my fireplace as a hearth. Naturally, when cleaning ash out of the fireplace
and in general use, there'll be some soot and wood that might dirty the
stone. Otherwise, I wouldn't expect anything to be spilled on the stone
or otherwise stain it. Do you think I should apply a sealer, or just clean
it periodically as needed with a mild detergent? Edward, July
28, Reply |
| R1:
I have Crab Orchard floors and I clean them with a
scrubrush and water sometimes I use a little murphys oil this seems to work
fine. Beautiful stone, Richard |
| Q 5457:
I am deciding between Impala Black and Baltic
Brown for my kitchen countertop. Is one better than the other? Are they
true granites? I am leaning toward Impala Black. Will Implala Black look
good with maple cabinets and oak hardwood floors? Help! And what is all
this talk about to seal or not to seal? Any comments will be appreciated.
Kelli, July
28, Reply |
| R1:
Dear Kelly: Please, pretty please, leave me out of the decorating part of
the picture, will you! About the stone you mention, Baltic Brown is a true
granite from Finland, while Black Impala is a Gabbrop from South Africa.
They are both excellent stones, but I seldom comment about any one particular
stone. There may be differences within the same stone (and I'm not talking
about looks, here!) from one bundle of slabs and the next. The slabs may
have also been either "doctored" (which is bad), or "resined"
(which is good) by the factory, which would make a big difference. Even
more important, what's a good stone in the hands of some "Michelangelo"?!I
did write a very comprehensive article on "How to Shop for a Granite
Kitchen Countertop" that will give you all the intelligence you need
to venture yourself with confidence in the stone industry jungle! It does
carry a small price tag, but wouldn't you rather have me beside you while
you're out there?! Gimme a holler at: info@findstone.com. There's a
little fee involved (as you will be told), but you'll be glad you did. What's
more, I will show you a way to get all of your money back! You can also
ask me how to get my comprehensive maintenance guidelines for residential
stone installations. Remember, when it comes to natural stone, maintenance
is an all too important yet neglected subject that should begin before you
even select it, as you can tell from several of this very site postings!
Don't become another statistic! Ciao and good luck, Maurizio, Expert panelist,
USA |
| |
| Q 5455:
I hired a company in Florida "Gasper
Superior Flooring" to install Polished Marble 12x12 tiles, to make
along story short, the installer used only mastic about 1/4 inch on the
floor and the walls. The tiles on the floor and walls area all uneven, so
much that Gasper Superior Flooring tried to sand them down (imagine the
mess and the dust) and even removed 6 of tiles from the floor, replacing
them with new ones that after installed with 1/4 inch of mastic! are also
uneven and have now cracked. Could you be so kind as to inform me of the
proper way to install marble tiles? In the past I had Saturnia Floors installed
and the installer used a thick layer of mortar and the tiles stayed in place.
The worse part is that this company did 2 bathrooms in my home and both
of them look horrible, most tiles stick out and not one stayed in place,
all of the tiles seemed to have slid, shift or stick out considerably.Williams,
July
28, Reply |
| R1:
Dear Williams: if memory serves me right, this is not the first time that
someone posts a complaint about the same company. It looks like "Michelangelo"
is quite active, lately! Look, I understand your anger, but to the best
of my knowledge there are courtrooms in Florida, too! Small claims and/or
Special Civil Part cases are handled rather swiftly, and you don't even
need a lawyer. Get pictures of the mess, get hold of a reputable installer
(the one that will be redoing the job) to take along with you, and get "Michelangelo"'s
butt in court! Ciao and good luck, Maurizio, Expert panelist, USA |
| Q 5452: I just had 80 linear
feet of bronzino/black galaxy installed. There are many divets and what
looks like water marks in the granite. I went to European granite in Farmingdale
Long Island and tagged it myself. After the granite was templated and delivered
it was not the one I had chosen. I know this for a fact because the granite
I had chosen had blue in it. Hope this won't happen to anyone else. I spent
over 10,000 dollars and even had the ogee edge put on which doesn't even
have the same shine as the top of the granite surface. I never even imagined
that they would switch the two slabs I had ordered. thank you for hearing
me out. Thanks, Pat, July 28, Reply |
| R1:
Dear Pat: Going by your story, it looks like "Michelangelo" struck
again! What you indicate as "watermark" are probably damages created
by acidic liquids on the impregnator sealer that they applied on the stone
believing that's granite, since black galaxy should not be sealed. About
the alleged switching of the slab, it goes to prove the futility (in most
cases) of the homeowner going out and doing the selection. You should have
gotten my literature on how to shop for a granite countertop. It's too late
now, but I do believe that at least I have the solution for your "watermarks"
problem. Gimme a holler at: info@findstone.com and get in touch with
me. There's a little fee involved (as you will be told), but I'll be glad
to help. What's more I will even tell you how to get all of your money back!
What more do you want from me? :-) Ciao and good luck, Maurizio, Expert
panelist, USA |
| Q 5448: I
am interested in polishing a softball size of green granite I found in Alaska.
My 17 year old daughter died in a car accident last year and I am wanting
to polish this stone and engrave it with a star in her memory, but I am
having a difficult time finding good, but easy directions. Any ideas on
how to do this or where to find info? I own a good Dremel and was hoping
I could accomplish this with that tool and not many other expensive items.
Thank you so much for your time! Sharon, July
23, Reply |
| R1:
Dear Sharon: You will not be able to do anything about polishing your stone,
alas, no matter how handy you are. It would be real difficult for a professional
due to the hardness of the stone and its random shape. However, I am so
moved by your story that – if you trust me that I won’t lose your
stone, or forget about it – I’d like you to send it to me, and
I’ll do my best, if possible, to polish it myself at no charge. You
will only have to take care of the engraving. Vinay, under the circumstances
you will let this lady get in touch directly with me without any “connection”
fee, won’t you? Thank you. Maurizio, not an Expert panelist on this
occasion: just a fellow human being, USA |
| Q 5442: I saw your posting
on a website and noticed you have bianco catalina granite for your countertop.
Can you tell me what color grout you went with and what color flooring.
We love the granite selection but aren't sure how to match it. Thank you,
Jennifer, July 23, Reply
|
| R1:
It sounds like you have a non-breathable sealer that is trapping moisture
between sealer and slate. Strip with Sealant and Adhesive Reover and re-seal
with one of their sealers. Different sealers will give you different looks.
Graeme the slate man |
| Q 5439: I
want to resurface my non-working fireplace with small river rock. How would
I do this. I saw it on a home improvement show, but they didn't give any
details and there is no info on their website. HELP! rgg, July
23, Reply |
| R1:
Laying riverstone is very tricky due to the smooth and round surface.surface
I would not suggest it for the unexpieranced however if you want to try
it try a coarse sand only two parts to one portland cement, mix it a little
water but keep it very very dry and apply enough to keep the stone initailly
in place when it is almost dry scrape or wire brush the joint back exsposing
as much stone as possible without allowing the stone to move. Clean the
area around the joint with a wet clothe just before it is dry, Richard |
| Q 5425: Kindly
advise me if it is wise to tile my kitchen and toilet with Moca limestone.
Thank you for your attention. Regards, Cheng, July
23, Reply |
| R1:
Dear Cheng, I would stay away from Limestone in the
kithcen it is soft, scratches and stains very easily |
| Q 5421:
I cost is no object, what is the easiest stone
to maintain in the shower? Rose, July
23, Reply |
| R1:
Tile made of Nephrite Jade is extremly hard and stain resistant it is superior
to grantie and takes a beautiful polish, Richard |
Q 5412: I
believe the name of my granite is Giallo Fiorito-is this a good granite
for kitchen counters? 2. I have not tried the lemon juice test yet as I
just found your website but, when I wipe the counter the granite turns darker
as I wipe it. Does that mean that my granite is very porous and needs sealing?
3. If so, how do I seal it?
4. My installer installed my under mount sink to the granite with epoxy
on small pieces of wood without clips. Is that o.k.?
5. I believe that I have a grease stain in the granite. How can I get rid
of it and make sure it doesn't happen again? Thank you, Robin, July
22, Reply
|
| R1:
Dear Robin: You mean to tell me that your fabricator delivered your Giallo
Fiorito countertop without sealing it?! … WOW! Call them back and demand
that they finish the job they got paid for! Keep in mind that due to the
high degree of absorbency of the stone, they will have to come back two,
thre times or better, until the sealing job is finished. Once they're there,
you will also demand that they remove the oil stain for you, before they
start the sealing job. Now, remember, it's never too early to think about
the proper maintenance of your stone. It's a subject that's all too often
neglected and, as you can tell by reading many of this site postings, you're
not likely to get good information about it from your dealer or installer,
especially in consideration of the stunt they reportedly tried to pull on
you! Don't become another statistic! You can get my maintenance guidelines
for residential stone installations by giving me a holler at: info@findstone.com.
They do carry a small price tag, but are worth every single penny and then
some! It's a one-of-a-kind document that you won't find anywhere else, I
promise! What's more, I will also tell you a way to get your money back!Ciao
and good luck, Maurizio, Expert Panelist |
| R2:
Giallo Fiorito is a nice material that is many times resined at the factory.
In its unresined state it requires several coats of an impregnating sealer.
resined maybe one or two.
2)
Yes, it needs more impregnating sealer.
3)
Clean the tops thoroughly and then follow the manufacturers instructions,
it is quite easy to do.
4)
Though I prefer more support you probably won't have a problem, just don't
load the sink to the brim with water!!
5)
You need to use a poultice. There are instructions for that oin this website
as well. Best
regards, Steven
|
R3:
Robin,
Fiorito is a medium density Brazilian granite. If a wet rag darkens it,
it has not been sealed. Buy a petroleum based sealer [not water based],
wipe it on, let it dry a few minutes, then wipe off the residue. It should
last 5 years or so. Check a home center or a tile business for a sealer.
Everybody installs sinks differently. My guess is that your installer is
content with this method. I'll guarantee you he wants no 'call backs', so
he'll go with something that has worked for him.
There are a number of products that will extricate stains. Your installer
should know. The general idea is as follows: Most products come in a one
gallon bucket. The material is white and about the consistency of flour
dough. You add water, mix it to thin it a bit. You then place this 'mud
pie' over the stain. Cover it with plastic visqueen, then tape the edges
to the countertop with duct tape. This prevents air from drying the mixture
from the top. As it dries from the bottom up, the stain is removed. [Note-
sometimes it may take as many as 3 applications to remove the entire stain]
It usually takes from 24-48 hours to fully dry. After the stain is gone,
reseal it and forget it. Hope this helps, Boyd |
| Q 5392: We
are remodelling our kitchen. I am very interested in the UBA TUBA, BLUE
PEARL, EMRALD PEARL and MORIAM/MOHAIM BAHIA(blackish grey) granites for
the kitchen countertops. Which of these would be more durable, less absorbent,
stain resistent? Which of these are true granites? I am aware of your lemon
test. Please advice what should I install on the kithcen floors - marble
or ceramic tiles. I donot like travertines, slates, Narayan,
July 22, Reply |
| R1:
Dear Narayan: I will start from the end. Marble in a kitchen floor is OK
only if hone-finished. Should you decide to have tiles instead, porcelain
is better than ceramic. Besides, if you like the look of polished marble,
there are available porcelain tiles that are hard to tell apart from the
real thing, without the aggravations, of course! About your countertop,
I seldom comment about any one particular stone. There may be differences
within the same stone (and I'm not talking about looks, here!) from one
bundle of slabs and the next. The slabs may have also been either "doctored"
(which is bad), or "resined" (which is good) by the factory, which
would make a big difference. Even more important, what's a good stone in
the hands of some "Michelangelo"?!I did write a very comprehensive
article on "How to Shop for a Granite Kitchen Countertop" that
will give you all the intelligence you need to venture yourself with confidence
in the stone industry jungle! It does carry a small price tag, but wouldn't
you rather have me beside you while you're out there?! Gimme a holler at:
info@findstone.com. There's a little fee involved (as you will be told),
but you'll be glad you did. What's more, I will show you a way to get all
of your money back! You can also ask me how to get my comprehensive maintenance
guidelines for residential stone installations. Remember, when it comes
to natural stone, maintenance is an all too important yet neglected subject
that should begin before you even select it, as you can tell from several
of this very site postings! Don't become another statistic!Ciao and good
luck, |
| Q 5381: I
am trying to find a solvent to clean headstones and make the white in the
letters come out white. Do you have any ideas. Please advise ASAP,
July
14, Reply
|
| R1:
In a word, BLEACH. Good luck, JVC, Expert Panelist |
| R2:
Was
the lettering originally white, or were they painted in black? Let me know.
Ciao and good luck, Maurizio. |
| Q 5380: I
recently acquired a large quantity of sandstone scraps one quarter to three
quarter inch in thickness. I would like to use it to cover my existing concrete
patio. It is about 16 yrs old and has some cracks that I have filled with
liquid concrete patch. How do I prepare the concrete and what is best material
for setting the so that they are relatively even on top. The patio has good
drainage toward the lawn. Steve, July
14, Reply
|
| R1:
You could try calling: 1-800-DIALGOD! That would work! :) Ciao and good
luck, Maurizio |
| R2:
The best way to get a traight job that allows flow to your agarden area
is to run a double masons line down each side at the proper pitch and at
the hieght you want for your finished top of stone . attach another line
to the two inside lines then lay your stone under this line as you work
slide this line down your two inside likesuintil you get to the end of the
job. always stay a hair under the lines so yo do not raise it. It is a painstaking
job with such small stones but doable, Richard |
| Q 5377: I
have an outside wall (wood) that IO plan to cover with Austin Limestone.
What are the guidelines for installing this material. I am a handy do-yourselfer
but have no experience in masonry work. Thanks Tom, July
14, Reply
|
| R1:
The wood should be covered with a water proofing material.(roofing felt
will work ), and an adequate number of wall tiesmust be used. Of course,
a foundation for the stone is a must (brick ledge). If possible, talk with
a local stone mason about the mortar mix, etc, or get a book on masonry
walls. If you are in the Austin TX area, get ahold of me directly through
this website, and I will be glad to help you out. Good luck, JVC, Expert
Panelist |
| Q 5376: I
have a dirty white limestone fireplace in my living room. As part of a remodel
project, I would like to change the color to something more earthy and neutral.
Is there a way to "stain" or paint in a semi-transparent way to
give the illusion of a darker, different colored, stone with organic variations?
Who should I call if I can't do it myself, July
14, Reply
|
| R1:
The answer is it depends. If the stone is one of the
soft, porous limestones, it is possible to change it's appearance somewhat
by staining it. Clients of mine have used solutions of tea, coffee, tobacco
juice, etc to darken the Cordova or Texas crème limestone. I suspect
a wood stain would also work. However, it is of the utmost importance for
you to test any stain on an inconspicuous area of the fireplace, or even
better on a scrap of the stone. Did the masons leave any leftover pieces
in your yard? or can you get a piece or two of the same stone. This is so
you will know exactly what the stain will do to your stone before applying
it to what is probably a focal point in the room. Good luck, JVC |
| Q 5375: I
am wanting to attach small stone angel to the base of a child's tombstone.
What type of adhesive will I need to use? Carylon, July
14, Reply
|
| R1:
Dear
Carolyn: Epoxy glue for outdoors. Ciao and good luck, Maurizio |
| R2:
Dear Caroyln, Mario is as usually right about epoxy
but if this is too difficult for you liquid nail , found in caulk tubes
can be used with a caulk gun it will also give you a permanent repair apply
to the base and bottom of the angel a thin coat then press them together
stay a hair back fromt he ustside edge so you wil not get any overflow but
if you do remove it while soft with a putty knife, Richard |
| Q 5374: We
want pour a concrete patio, then lay flamed granite tile on it. I read that
it is important that the concrete be cured before laying the granite, or
the granite would soak up moisture and minerals from the concrete, which
would stain it. How long would a 4" thick concrete slab need to dry
before it would be safe to install granite tile? Debbie, July
14, Reply
|
| R1:
Dear Debbie: How often is it going to rain, and how hard, after you pour
your concrete slab? If you can answer that for me, then I'll tell you how
long you'll have to wait! :) If you live in the desert, a couple of weeks
should do. Ciao and good luck, Maurizio, Expert Panelist |
| Q 5373: We
just had Salome light grey granite counters installed, and our so-called
experience installers used liquid nails as an adhesive. The day after, pale
grey stains leached through the granite. We are horrified. We were told
they will go away, and they have faded a little bit. It has now bee 5 days
and I can still see them. Is this the liquid nails? Will it go away, or
should we have it all ripped out and replaced?-Tomd, July
14, Reply
|
| R1:
Dear Tom: WOW! Liquid nail, huh! … And "Michelangelo" strikes
again! I highly doubt that they will ever disappear completely, sorry. You
should have gotten my article about shopping around for a granite kitchen
countertop. Too late now! But it's not too late (and never too early!) to
get my maintenance guidelines for residential stone installations by giving
me a holler at: info@findstone.com. They do carry a small price tag,
but are worth every single penny and then some! It's a one-of-a-kind document
that you won't find anywhere else, I promise! What's more, I will also tell
you a way to get your money back! Ciao and good luck, Maurizio. Expert Panelist |
| Q 5372:
I am looking for a stone to replace old coping on my in ground swimming
pool. My pool refurbisher is recommending a travertine. The stone will go
around the top edge of the pool and be mortared in place. Is this a good
idea? Will travertine blister and crack with cold winters? Our winters get
to 10 degrees F below 0. What type of stone is economical and available
for swimming pool coping in the North East region of the US. I do not like
rough edges, so fieldstone is out the the question. Sue, July
14, Reply
|
| R1:
Dear Sue: Why don't you move to Florida or somethin'! :) Joke aside I'll
go along with your pool refurbisher. Travertine (honed and unfilled) it's
an excellent choice. I highly recommend ¾" stock, though. Ciao
and good luck, Maurizio |
| Q 5371: I
am looking at purchasing Beaumaniere Limestone for use in my bathrooms.
Reading this site has made me very Leary. I really like the look of limestone
and was set on putting it in my shower, on the floor, and some of the wall.
I understand that some limestones are not as dense as others. Do you have
an opinion about Beaumaniere? And is there a way to test it when I receive
a sample? Thanks, Jim, July
14, Reply
|
| R1:
Dear Jim: Sorry, but I'm not a limestone man. You can get the same look
of limestone with hone-finished marble and limit taking your chances when
you feel like dropping a couple of bills at the casino! :)Now, remember,
it's never too early to think about the proper maintenance of your stone.
It's a subject that's all too often neglected and, as you can tell by reading
many of this site postings, you're not likely to get good information about
it from your dealer or installer. Don't become another statistic! You can
get my maintenance guidelines for residential stone installations by giving
me a holler at: info@findstone.com. They do carry a small price tag,
but are worth every single penny and then some! It's a one-of-a-kind document
that you won't find anywhere else, I promise! What's more, I will also tell
you a way to get your money back!Ciao and good luck, Maurizio, Expert |
| Q 5370:
I am remodeling
my kitchen. My cabinets are going to be an autumn coffee on cherry and the
island is going to be a moss color. I am thinking about using pine green
granite for counter tops. Is this a good choice for granite as far as durability
and practical use? Any advice would be great. I am also redoing the baths.
For the master bath, I am concerned with the h maintenance of marble or
limestone? I have been told to use honed marble. What do you think? Why
not tile, isn't it easier to clean? July
14, Reply
|
| R1:
I seldom comment about any one particular stone. There may be differences
within the same stone (and I'm not talking about looks, here!) from one
bundle of slabs and the next. The slabs may have also been either "doctored"
(which is bad), or "resined" (which is good) by the factory, which
would make a big difference. Even more important, what's a good stone in
the hands of some "Michelangelo"?!I did write a very comprehensive
article on "How to Shop for a Granite Kitchen Countertop" that
will give you all the intelligence you need to venture yourself with confidence
in the stone industry jungle! It does carry a small price tag, but wouldn't
you rather have me beside you while you're out there?! Gimme a holler at:
info@findstone.com. There's a little fee involved (as you will be told),
but you'll be glad you did. What's more, I will show you a way to get all
of your money back! You can also ask me how to get my comprehensive maintenance
guidelines for residential stone installations. Remember, when it comes
to natural stone, maintenance is an all too important yet neglected subject
that should begin before you even select it, as you can tell from several
of this very site postings! Don't become another statistic!As far as you
question about limestone and marble in your bathroom is concerned, polished
or honed does not make much of a difference maintenance-wise, unless the
hone-finish is totally flat - which is never the case. The right intelligence
about proper maintenance procedures will work much better than a simple
sentence! :)Ciao and good luck, Maurizio, Expert Panelist |
| Q 5369:
We're buying
a home with a rough-faced Georgia marble fireplace. The stone is beautiful
when wet (discovered when I was scrubbing off the old grime). When it is
dry, you don't see and can't appreciate the colors. I would like to know
if there is something I can spray on it to keep the color showing without
worrying about what heat may do when the fireplace is in use? Thanks!! Nancy,
July
14, Reply
|
| R1:
Dear Nancy: Yes, there is. A good quality stone color enhancer is "your
man"! Ciao and good luck, Maurizio, Expert Panelist |
| Q 5368: I
have Ubatuba counter tops. Is this type of stone a candidate to seal? Our
installer told us to use antibacterial windex for day to day cleaning and
lemon pledge for day to day shine. It seems to work. Am I doing harm to
my "granite"? Thanks for any advise. Norm, July
14, Reply
|
| R1:
Dear Norm: You don't want to ask me!! :) Just ask your fabricator how much
testing he has conducted with those two particular products, what type of
testing, and on how many different "granites" (assuming that he
knows, for instance, that Ubatuba and most other stones he sells as granite
are not granite by a long shot!) before recommending them. If the answers
are: a couple of years, lab testing, and a couple of hundreds, then they
must be OK. If not … well, you fill the blanks and take your chances!
You can get my maintenance guidelines for residential stone installations
by giving me a holler at: info@findstone.com. They do carry a small
price tag, but are worth every single penny and then some! It's a one-of-a-kind
document that you won't find anywhere else, I promise! What's more, I will
also tell you a way to get your money back! Ciao and good luck, Maurizio,
Expert Panelist |
| |
| Q 5365: I
just had a granite counter installed in my New Jersey Home. I went with
Hawaiian Green. I love the look of the stone, but when the light shines
on it and/or when you look at it from an angle you can see a lot of what
looks like scratch marks. I can't feel anything when I run the palm of my
hand over it, but if I use my fingernails I can feel an indentation. Should
I be concerned about the quality of this stone? Should it be like that?
Will it get worse? Is there anything I can do to reduce the noticeability
of the marks? It really bothers me. I was told by the installer that it
is stone and this type slab has more pronounced marks like this. He assured
me it is not less in quality and will not get worse. Was I given an inferior
product? Joe, July
14, Reply |
| R1:
Dear Joe: "Hawaiian green", huh!… Never heard of it! But,
hey, there's always a first time for everything, isn't there? That said,
without actually seeing the stone, only a fool would venture an assessment
of these "mysterious" scratch patterns. Where are you in NJ? Maybe
I could take a look at your slab. Ciao and good luck, Maurizio, Expert Panelist |
| Q 5364: We
have water stains on recently installed marble countertops in master bath.
How can we get rid of them? There also seems to be a spot in the marble
that is "flat,"......just doesn't shine. Anything we can do about
that? Thanks much, MK, July
14, Reply |
| R1:
Dear MK: water does not stain marble. Never did, never
will! What you have are etch marks (they do like water spots, don't they!),
which are actual surface damages. I do believe I have the solution to your
problem. Gimme a holler at: info@findstone.com and get in touch with
me. There's a little fee involved (as you will be told), but I'll be glad
to help. What's more I will even tell you how to get all of your money back!
What more do you want from me? :-) About the "flat" spot you're
reporting, without seeing it I don't know. It could be a natural "dead"
spot, but then again, it could not. The solution that I have in mind for
your "water stains" will take care of that, too, if it's not a
natural flaw in the stone. Ciao and good luck, Maurizio, Expert Panelist
|
| Q 5363: I
am remodeling my master bathroom and truly love the look of tumbled marble.
Many have warned against it. Is this a good choice for floors, showers,
walls? Will the holes be filled in upon installation and if so, will this
change the look of the tumbled marble? Will the grout eventually look different
and not as attractive? Does dirt easily accumulate in the holes, with difficulty
in cleaning? In summation, please provide me with the pros and cons of tumbled
marble versus regular marble, granite, porcelain, etc? What do you have
installed in your bathroom!? I appreciate any help and am open to suggestions.
Romina, July
14, Reply |
| R1:
Dear Romina: It really doesn't matter what I have installed in my own bathroom,
does it?! Anyway, back to your question, there's nothing wrong with tumbled
marble. Have the holes filled during installation, after a few days have
a good-quality color enhancer applied into, and … enjoy! It's a very
low-maintenance material. You still need to know how to properly maintain
it though! Don't become another statistic! You can get my maintenance guidelines
for residential stone installations by giving me a holler at: info@findstone.com.
They do carry a small price tag, but are worth every single penny and then
some! It's a one-of-a-kind document that you won't find anywhere else, I
promise! What's more, I will also tell you a way to get your money back!Ciao
and good luck, Maurizio, Expert Panelist |
| |
| Q 5361: Interested
in Blue Bahia for a kitchen countertop and a backsplash. Other than it's
beauty I can't find information on it's strength, absorption, etc. Is it
a good idea for the kitchen? It's extremely expensive due to it's rarity.
July
14, Reply |
| R1:
You hit the nail right on the head! The cost of Blue Bahia is determined
- like with any other commodity, exclusively by demand and supply. It's
a strong stone, but quite absorbent. You will have to make sure that the
right impregnator-sealer is applied into it and the necessary number of
times. After that, you can get my maintenance guidelines for residential
stone installations by giving me a holler at: info@findstone.com. They
do carry a small price tag, but are worth every single penny and then some!
It's a one-of-a-kind document that you won't find anywhere else, I promise!
What's more, I will also tell you a way to get your money back! Ciao and
good luck,Maurizio, Expert Panelist |
| Q 5359: In
December we had a Ubatuba countertop installed in our kitchen. I have had
difficulty effectively cleaning the countertop but reading your website
has taken care of that issue. However since installation we have developed
four chips in the Ubatuba surrounding the sink. Two of the chips are large
about 3/8" long and between 1/8" and 1/4" deep. I caused
one of chips with a glass after rinsing it and bumping the edege of the
sink on the way to the dishwasher. The glass did not chip or break but the
edge of the countertop around the sink did. Is this unusual or is possible
the edge around the sink is not rounded or beveled enough? Appreciate your
feedback. Jim, July
14, Reply |
| R1:
Dear Jim: No, it's not unusual at all. You also guessed the real nature
of the problem. Have your fabricator come back and ask them to round a little
bit more the top edge of your sink-hole. Ciao and good luck, Maurizio, Expert
Panelist |
| Q 5358: Do
you seal the grout on marble floors? they tell me you don't. what is sealing
all about, and would it hurt the floor if any of the sealer gets on it please!
anything you can tell me about grouting and sealing marble floors...thank
you karen, July
14, Reply |
| R1:
Dear Karen: The application of a penetrating sealer in the grout accomplish
one thing and one thing only: makes the grout less absorbent, so that if
you spill coffee or cooking oil on it, it will dramatically reduce the possibility
of staining. At a less theoretical level, however, the question is: "is
it worth it?" Which reminds me how certain homeowner are so particular
at choosing the color of the grout, when everybody knows that six months
to a year down the line, nobody will be able to tell what color it was!
So, even if it's sealed, what difference would it make? :) Concern yourself
with a much more important issue, such as routine maintenance of your polished
marble floor - which does not include an impregnator/sealer! Don't become
another statistic! You can get my maintenance guidelines for residential
stone installations by giving me a holler at: info@findstone.com. They
do carry a small price tag, but are worth every single penny and then some!
It's a one-of-a-kind document that you won't find anywhere else, I promise!
What's more, I will also tell you a way to get your money back! Ciao and
good luck, Maurizio, Expert Panelist |
| Q 5357:
I have to restore
(clean) what appear to me to be white "carrara" marble baseboards
in an 1880's entry foyer. They are stained dark brown and yellow. They do
not appear to be sealed with anything. What do you suggest? Orlando, July
14, Reply |
| R1:
Dear Orlando: When it comes to stain removal, either you buy one of those
expensive "Professional kits" (that no true professional ever
uses!) at a stone retailer near you, or you can spend less money and get
my comprehensive guidelines on how to remove stains by using inexpensive
and far more effective means that you may already have in your household!
Such impressive piece of literature will also tell you how to tell stains
apart from "stains", and what to do about the latter! Gimme a
holler at: info@findstone.com. You'll be glad you did!You can also ask
me how to get my comprehensive maintenance guidelines for residential stone
installations. Remember, when it comes to natural stone, maintenance is
an all too important yet neglected subject that should begin before you
even select it, as you can tell from several of this very site postings!
Don't become another statistic! What's more, I can even show you a way to
get all of your money back! What more can you ask?! Ciao and good luck,
Maurizio, Expert Panelist |
| Q 5356: Our
granite countertop installer swears that the granite he installed (Ubatuba
) will get more brown tones and gold highlights with age and exposure to
air and sunlight. We think he he's trying to give us a lie. We picked out
what some other installers call 'Ubatuba M' which has more brown high lights
visible. The installer put in a piece that is mostly blue green with no
brown tones at all. I think we picked the wrong company to purchase our
granite from. What do you say? Thanks! Greg, July
14, Reply |
| R1:
Dear Greg: What do you expect me to say? You said it all already! Ciao and
good luck, Maurizio, Expert Panelist |
| Q 5355: What
are the pluses & minuses of using this limestone as a kitchen countertop?
We like the rough finish and the color but are concerned about scratching
& staining. How difficult is maintenance? Thanks! -B & L, July
14, Reply
|
| R1:
Dear B & L: This particular topic has been discussed a few thousands
times already. I'm sure that if you read past postings on the subject, and
some of the literature available on the left side bar of this very page
you will find the answers you're looking for. Ciao and good luck, Maurizio
|
| Q 5354: We
just recently purchased a marble table. We found that on the table there
are etching scratches on it. What do you recommend to remove, repair or
lighten the etching/scratches? It is very visible, Allen,
July 14, Reply |
| R1:
Did you seal the stone right after installation maybe trapping some moister
in the stone. You might ask Fred at ntc-stone.com he might know. Good luck,
Randy |
| R2:
Dear Allen, I guess that you must have taken cement categories as adhesive,
it does occur such things which adhesive layer reflecting upon. Ingredients
of lye in cement elements, penetrating upon with water inside evaporating,
stains the tiles structure crackers. Seems no good way to tackle it away,
you can sue the installer for claim. piness |
R3:
Hello
Allen, There are two possibilities.
1) The setting material has not fully dried. If this is the case then over
the next several months the color will eventually go away.
2) When the material was being installed the installer used a gray setting
material instead of white. This shadow effect never goes away. Good luck,
Stven, Expert Panelist
|
| R4:
Only
one thing and one thing only: hire a bona fide stone restoration professional,
who will hone and polish your marble table top. It is not, by far, a DIY
project. Ciao and good luck, Maurizio, Expert Panelist |
| Q 5353: Based
on reading your responses to many people, I know that I need to use an Impregnator/Sealer
for my granite. I am interested in getting more info about your Impregnator/Sealer.
Also, how many square feet can be successfully applied with one quart? I
am installing 50 square feet of Giallo Santa Cecilia tiles on a kitchen
countertop and island. Also which of your brochures would you recommend
for my specific job? Thanks for your help. Hope you are having a great day.
Scott, July
08, Reply |
R1:
My impregnator/sealer is a water-based product whose main component (the
solid part) is represented by the latest technology of fluorocarbon acrylic
resin (basically Teflon). It comes with a 20-year limited warranty, which
means that you won't have to worry about applying it once a year like most
sislicon-based impregnators require.
The mercantile granite you're planning to use will require 4 or 5 applications.
Considering that, 1 US Quart should be good to cover 70 to 100 square feet.
The directions for the application of the product are written on the bottle.
I do believe, however, that you should consider our piece of literature:
Maintenance Guidelines for Residential Stone Ciao and good luck, Maurizio,
Expert Panelist
|
| Q 5352: I
love your site. I think it has helped me crystallize my direction. I'm looking
for a stone acceptable for kitchen counter, specifically a food prep area
that has properties similar to soapstone or slate, BUT is light, creamy,
peachy or beige in color. I found something called Durango Travertine which
was exactly what I wanted until I poured lemon juice on it. I am satisfied
with the soapstone and slate properties for kitchen use, but I would really
like a light color. Could you recommend something? Thank you! Debbi, July
08, Reply |
| R1: We
quarry and fabricate limestone materials in the Yucatan of Mexico. We have
two materials that we use in kitchens regularly that should fit your needs.
One is creamy and the other is coral/peachy in color. Reply if we can help.
Robert
|
| R2:
For a hardy benchtop surface
you really need to look at granite, but if you don'tlike any of the light
granites perhaps a crema marfil or botticino honed surface - very well sealed.
these are softer than granites but better than travertines. Good Luck emina |
| R3:
I would use granite
for counter tops. Keep it sealed as needed. Good luck Randy |
| R4:
Suggest you go with a harder, less porous stone such
as granite(real) which passes the lemon test and works with your decor color
scheme. Rex |
| R5:
We quarry and fabricate limestone
materials in the Yucatan of Mexico. We have two materials that we use in
kitchens regularly that should fit your needs. One is creamy and the other
is coral/peachy in color. Reply if we can help, Robert |
| R6:
In the color range that you are describing, I would possibly suggest our
Calico Cream material. This a workable limestone that is tightly veined
and can be shaped and honed to the shape that you would desire and look
under our 8" drywall for the color that I had mentioned We will need
a drawing and shipping location. Ronnie |
R7:
Dear Debbie, You are clearly not alone in this dilemma - you want a "soft"
stone (in different ways) but you do not want it to etch or stain. You obviously
know that a marble or limestone in the kitchen is a no-no if you want it
to remain in the same condition as when it was installed. These calcareous
rock types cannot be effectively protected with sealers against acidic fluids
no matter what the salespeople out there try to tell you (sorry, sell you).
You appear to have three choices:
(a) choose a dense European limestone and adopt a European mentality (as
opposed to American or Australian), use the stone, enjoy the stone, and
accept what happens to it in time (which realistically isn't very much unless
abused);
(b) choose a beige-coloured granite, e.g. Brisbane Beige, and either seal
it or have it resined (better for negligible maintenance). The suggestion
for having it sealed or resined is based on its porosity. All beige-coloured
granites of the world are beige because they are partly altered (geologically
speaking). And they are partly altered because they are more porous (>0.3
wt. %). Because they
are more-porous they readily accept sealers and resins which penetrate the
microfractures and micropores and so help to protect the surface. The science
of sealing porous granite works - unlike the science of salesmanship which
tries to seal everything to make a buck today, next year and every other
year in the future; and,
(c) if you still can't be pleased with a good quality limestone or an effectively
sealed beige-coloured granite you might have to resort to one of those engineered
stones that promises 93-95% of quartz and 5-7% of resin, and specks that
suggest bullet-proof properties. The reality is that none of them contain
that amount of quartz, all of them contain other minerals that are softer
than quartz (can be scratched) and some can be chemically susceptible to
attack by acidic fluids (e.g. wine,
champagne, orange juice, tomato sauce, salad dressing, etc.). Some of these
quartz-based products contain as little as 20% quartz (don't believe the
blurb). Others contain calcareous shells that are highly reactive to acidic
fluids (so read the fine print). Also rarely revealed is the fact that they
have a coefficient of expansion of as much as 4 times that of stone. This
means that the localized
application of heat can lead to thermal shock with the potential for the
development of a nice fracture across the kitchen-top (especially if installed
over a dishwasher with exposed hotwater piping). They also don't tell you
that if your top is exposed to sunlight it is very susceptible to fading
(more so for darker colours) as well as cyclic expansion and contraction
from day to day. With time, the expansion and contraction will result in
delamination from the adhesive and you
get the slab bowing up at the ends. Also to be considered is the potential
health hazard from the fumes of the resin in units that are often closed
up for long periods. This is more serious in units
containing large benches that are exposed daily to sunlight, but thankfully
only a small proportion of the population is sensitive to these fumes. Now,
what are you going to choose? (Dr. Hans) |
| R8:
Dear Debbi:Honed marble is more absorbent than its polished counterpart,
because the polishing process for marble includes a chemical reaction that
creates some sort of fusion of the upper layer of the mineral crystals of
the stone, which will tighten its pores. The polishing of granite is a totally
different story because it's strictly mechanic. There's a minimal difference
-- if any -- in the absorbency rate between honed and polished granite.That
said, yes, of course, as a rule of thumb light colored granites are typically
more absorbent that dark colored ones, but there are now good quality impregnaotrs/sealer
(not available, say, a short year ago) that will bi able to control such
an absorbency.About comparing honed granite with soapstone, it's a nonsense:
the two materials are not comparable. One is hard, the other is very soft,
and their maintenance requirements are far apart from each other. You asked
about a dull stone not as dark as soapstone and that was my answer. I never
suggested, nor even implied that the two materials could be compared.Ciao
and good luck, Maurizio, Expert Panelist |
| R9:
I'm very sorry having to tell you that you will not be able to remove the
stain. I recommend to protect all marble, granite or natural stone you have
with protecting products anti-stain. Once you have the stain, it is impposible
to remove, Laoun |
| |
| Q 5350: I
have recently constructed a retaining wall in southwestern pennsylvania
using large (1 ton) indigenous boulders that i thought were limestone. They
are tan / gray in color and react to hydrochloric acid. after only a few
months they seem to be eroding. Is my wall going to crumble into dust, and
is there anything i can do to stabilize or seal them before this occurs?
Craig. July
02, Reply |
| R1:
Dear Craig, Some limestone will react poorly with the acid rain in PA. this
may be the case with yours, Richard |
| Q 5348: I
process sand stone into tiles. I have a problem with the off cuts of these
tiles. Is there some way that one can process these in to something else?
I heard about a product called Terrazzo. what the heck is this? Thanks for
your quick response and the info on the site. Its great. We in Namibia export
a lot of granite and marble. Thanks Sam Januarie, July
02, Reply |
| R1:
Hot foot it down to your local pool company buy a small bottle of chlorine
mix it 20% TO 80% WATER apply to stone with old paint brush leave till not
quite dry wash off with clean water this will omit old cement and lime stains |
|
R2:
Andra
if you would like to send me some pictures I may be able to hazard a guess,
Richard
|
| Q 5346:
I have recently had a sandstone coloured paving
patio area laid and upon the paving I had an outdoor dining table (new).
Over the last couple of days it has rained and I did not have the table
covered so what has happened is that the stain that was used on the table
has run off onto the paving and left some brown stains. How can either get
rid of the stains on the paving or minimise the ugly effect the stains have
left? Ann Bohan, July
02, Reply |
| R1:
Dear Bohan: I assume that it’s wood stain that stained the sandstone.
Very little chance to remove it, I can tell you that! How about staining
the effected tiles and make them uniform? Ciao and good luck, Maurizio,
Expert Panelist |
| Q 5344: We
have three granite stones which appear to have water stains on them. They
are in an area of a cemetary where there are no trees and lots of sunshine.
I have talked to the monument company who has instructed me to wash the
stones with Tide grandular soap, rinse and leave for two weeks. They think
the stains could be oil. Have you ever heard of this problem, Mary,
July
02, Reply
|
| R1:
I'm very sorry having to tell you that you will not be able to remove the
stain. I recommend to protect all marble, granite or natural stone you have
with protecting products anti-stain. Once you have the stain, it is impposible
to remove, Laoun |
| Q 5343: What do I look for
if I am comparing the "water absorption by weight". My interest
now is GIALLO FIORITO for a kitchen countertop and large island. The "water
absorption by weight" is (0.2-0.3%). Does this mean my granite will
be highly resistant to water & stains? And if it is not - is there a
way for me to add extra protection especially around the sink and stove
areas. By the way...your website has been the most helpful for my daughter
and I to learn about granite and to pre-choose the colors/patterns, Mahan,
July
02, Reply
|
| R1:
Dear Mahan: The “water absorption by weight” values indicated
in the table of Dr. Daniel are to be considered indicative and average.
That is why I seldom comment about any one particular stone. There may be
differences within the same stone (and I’m not talking about looks,
here!) from one bundle of slabs and the next. The slabs may have also been
either “doctored” (which is bad), or “resined” (which
is good) by the factory, which would make a big difference. Even more important,
what’s a good stone in the hands of some “Michelangelo”?!I
did write a very comprehensive article on “How to Shop for a Granite
Kitchen Countertop” that will give you all the intelligence you need
to venture yourself with confidence in the stone industry jungle! It does
carry a small price tag, but wouldn’t you rather have me beside you
while you’re out there?! Gimme a holler at: info@findstone.com.
There’s a little fee involved (as you will be told), but you’ll
be glad you did. What’s more, I will show you a way to get all of
your money back! You can also ask me how to get my comprehensive maintenance
guidelines for residential stone installations. Remember, when it comes
to natural stone, maintenance is an all too important yet neglected subject
that should begin before you even select it, as you can tell from several
of this very site postings! Don’t become another statistic! Ciao and
good luck, Maurizio, Expert Panelist |
| R2:
Actually, that granite has
a very low absorbtion rate, and be less likely for enetration by water.
you can seal it with 511 Impregnator to help minimize the penetration of
water even more. Robb |
| Q 5342: We
have two energetic dogs, and a very small yard. They've destroyed every
kind of lawn we've tried to put in, so we're looking into replacing it with
a large patio surrounded by plantings. I liked the look of the compacted
gravel/stone dust walkways and gardens we've seen in Europe, and I think
it will look less harsh than a huge stone patio. Is there a way to create
this kind of patio where it will withstand dogs running and cornering? They
currently create "berms" running across the softer dirt in the
yard. By the way, we live in zone 6, Pennsylvania. Thanks for your help,
Deanna, July
02, Reply
|
| R1:
Hello from Bucks County,the type of walk you are talking about will last
much longer if you build a form of pressure treated lumber around the edges
to prevent washout you can rake the stone flat then compact it with a lawn
roller, Richard |
| Q 5340: I have Blue Pearl countertops
in my kitchen. The fabricator put a sealer on which I am know thinking they
don't need and gave me some Marbamist spray cleaner and spray sealer to
use. I use plain water for everyday cleaning and the spray cleaner at least
once a week. The cleaner seems to leave a film, so then I follow up with
plain water which seems to restore the shine. I feel unsure about whether
I am doing the right thing or not, and whether I should bother ever using
the sealer they gave me. They also gave me steel wool to use on the counter
top, but I am not sure why. Thanks so much, Teresa, July
02, Reply
|
| R1:
Dear Teresa: You’re not sure why they gave you steel wool? Neither
am I!You can get my maintenance guidelines for residential stone installations
by giving me a holler at: info@findstone.com. They do carry a small
price tag, but are worth every single penny and then some! It’s a
one-of-a-kind document that you won’t find anywhere else, I promise!
What’s more, I will also tell you a way to get your money back! Ciao
and good luck, Maurizio, Expert Panelist |
| R2:
We would certainly
recommend sealing the granite to minimize staining however, I cannot speak
for the other products you have there. Our Porous Plus would be ideal for
the kitchen counter, not only does it repel oils, greases and food stains,
but it is also USDA approved for food preparation areas. We also offer a
product Counter Kleen that is a spray and wipe that leaves no streaks. Robb |
| R3:
Dear Teresa, First up throw away (or return) the sealer and the steel wool
that they gave you. You will never need them! Most varieties of Blue Pearl
are a rock type called larvikite, from Larvik in Norway. Less specifically,
most of them are belong to a group of rocks classified as syenites. Because
of the spectacular iridescence caused by the submicroscopic exsolution of
sodic plagioclase feldspar platelets, they are sometimes prefixed with cryptoperthitic.
The high quality Blue Pearl has a surface which closes exceptionally well
(has very few visible micropores, microfractures, and grain boundaries).
Progressively lower quality pearl granites (used in the broad sense) have
more and more visible micro-structural features but none so bad that they
need sealing. Where the hell is the sealer going to go? It will just remain
on top of the granite and you will be dealing with a layer of sealer rather
than the surface of the stone. Don't listen to these salespeople that try
to sell you sealers, impregnators, enhancers, spray-on magic, etc. for stone
that is not made to accept such products. Ask yourself this: what does a
salesman know about the mineralogy, texture, structure, and chemical composition
of the stone? I don't think I have to tell you the answer. As far as cleaning
goes, have you tried just warm water with soap or detergent, followed by
a wipe of metho? It certainly won't harm your stone. (Dr. Hans) |
| Q 5336: I
just had a jet-black granite floor installed in my bathroom. The bid for
the job was originally for absolute black granite 12 x 12 tiles, and for
whatever reason, the jet-black was installed instead. Within a day of installation,
I notice that there appears to be a haze on the tile or film. It looks as
if it should be able to clean off the surface, but will not. The floor in
general appears to need to be cleaned. What might be the problem. Thanks
Scott, July
02, Reply
|
| R1:
Dear Scott: If it is really Black Jet, I consider that stone even better
than absolute black. But is it really? That haze or film you’re reporting
sounds mighty suspicious to me! I really have no idea what it could be.
Just have the dealer and the installer solve the problem. After all, they
made good money out of the deal! Ciao and good, Maurizio, Expert Panelist |
| Q 5334: Please
let me know what compound I should use to stick Marble on a Iron Frame.
This is to be used as a dining table, July
02, Reply |
| R1:
100% clear silicon. Ciao and good luck, Maurizio. |
| |
| Q 5327: I
am very glad to find your website this morning. I purchased a new house
and am having trouble with the builder regarding my granite countertop.
The grout joints are anywhere from 1/16 inch to 3/16 inch thick the job
looks very bad and inconsistent. I have been arguing with them about replacing
the entire countertop but they are reluctant to do so. Their answer is always,
"It is within standards fro granite tile installation". Also the
grout color does not match what we picked and the joint between the sink
and countertop is almost 1/2 inch thick and looks awful. What are the installation
standards for granite tile and what can we do to get this resolved since
they are uncooperative. Thank You, Chris, July
02, Reply |
| R1: Your
builder knows nothing about stone get rid of him and look up stone orginisations
and get them to advise on a qualified stonemason then you should have happy
days. bob |
| R2:
Dear Chris: It does sound awful
all right! Unfortunately, there are no industry standards, but … it
may work in your favor! Ask your GC to show you this alleged industry standards
for granite tile countertop installation (the standards for floor do not
apply). If they still resist, take pictures and then take your CG’s
butt to small claim court. Since there are no standards, I want to see a
judge who would consider accepting that alleged garbage in his or her own
kitchen! Ciao and good luck, Maurizio, Expert Panelist |
| Q 5326: My
kitchen floor Hallways and thru-out are orchard stone- I just had construction
work done and the contractor didn't cover them.. Needless to say, I have
washed them several times and the sheetrock dust has left a film... I just
got a bid for someone to come in and totally grind them down and seal them-
to the tune of $3000.00. Isn't there something I can do myself??? Monica,
July
02, Reply |
| R1:
Dear Monica: Try to clean one little spot with baby oil, and then let me
know how you like it. This would be just a test, because You do NOT want
to clean the whole floor with baby oil, but if it works, I will be able
to point you in the right direction. Ciao and good luck, Maurizio, Expert
Panelist |
| Q 5321: I
just found your website, what a wealth of information! We have had our Atlantic
Green granite counter tops for almost 2 years. Overall I am quite happy
with them. I know for sure that they were sealed x 2. I only use warm water
and small amounts of dish detergent to clean them followed by the stone
cleaner that we were given when we purchased the granite. Once I apply the
stone cleaner, the surface gets a nice sheen to it. I was not able to find
our Atlantic Green granite on the most popular granite list on your website.
Can you give me any information about the type of granite we have and its
qualities? Also, most of the counter has deepened in color since we first
got it, which is fine with me as I prefer the darker tone. But several areas
on which I have items such as a coffee pot and utensil crocks, underneath
these things are still the slightly lighter tone that the granite was when
we first got it. Most people probably would not notice the difference but
how can I get these areas to match the deeper tone? Anna, July
02, Reply
|
| R1:
Dear Anna: I don’t know exactly what type of stone Atlantic Green
actually is. I hope Dr. Daniel will chime in to enlighten us all! Regardless,
it’s quite a good and enjoyable stone. About the darkening that occurred
to it over time, it’s due to the fact that some of the minerals that
are part of the stone are photosensitive. IN other words, the daylight will
effect them in the long run. The proof of that is iun the fact that the
area not exposed to the light were not effected. What to do? It’s
should be difficult, but do NOT expect immediate results! Just move the
items you listed in some other spot of your countertop, thus exposing the
lighter spots to the light.About your routine maintenance, keep using the
stone cleaner and forget the water and dish soap!Ciao and good luck, Maurizio,
Expert Panelist |
| Q 5318: I'm
converting a 100+ year old cortijo in andalusia, spain. One project is to
convert a bedroom with marble flloring into an en suite bathroom. The builder
says all the marble has to go because it will let water through. Is this
correct? Is there any coating I can put on the marble to waterproof it without
ruining it? Christopher, July
01, Reply
|
| R1:
Dear Christopher: your builder must know something that I don’t
know. Or, maybe, the Spanish marble that you have is a unique kind that’s
related to sea sponges or somethin’ :-) Keep your marble and tell
your builder to learn at least the basic before opening his big mouth and
make a mockery out of himself! Ciao and good luck, Maurizio, Expert Panelist |
| Q 5317: I
have a new master bathroom with marble floors and glazed porcelain shower
walls (both with unsanded grout). First, the floor tile has some pencil
marks left from the installation, any idea how to get those out? We've tried
water, then ruined a "hidden" tile by using a kitchen cleaner,
and finally tried a pencil eraser . . . best of the bunch. Second, I am
wondering what type of sealer, if any, to use on the floor tile, the shower
tile, and the grout. Any suggestions?? Matt, July
01, Reply |
| R1:
Dear Matt: There’s not an easy way to remove
pencil marks. If an eraser worked best, keep trying with that. The only
real remedy is to hone and re-polish those tile. NOT a DIY project by a
long shot! If the marble tiles are outside the shower stall, I wouldn’t
bother sealing them. You can get my maintenance guidelines for residential
stone installations by giving me a holler at: info@findstone.com. They
do carry a small price tag, but are worth every single penny and then some!
It’s a one-of-a-kind document that you won’t find anywhere else,
I promise! What’s more, I will also tell you a way to get your money
back!Ciao and good luck,Maurizio, Expert Panelist |
| Q 5316: I
have acouple of old soapstone countertop peices that I would like to use
as a hearth for my fireplace. They will have to be joined. I understand
from peruseing your site that I can use regular woodworking tools to cut
and shape the stone but I am not sure what type of adhesive to use. Could
you please advise. Thank you, Charles, July
01, Reply |
| R1: Dear
Charles: Epoxy glue is “your man”! Ciao and good luck, Maurizio,
Expert Panelist |
| |
| Q 5313:
I found a granite I really love. It is grayish green with cream colored
veins and looks somewhat like marble. The name is Costa Esmeralda. Do you
know anything about this granite and if so, would it be a good choice for
a kitchen island? Also, in the showroom in which I saw it, the slabs only
come polished. I do like the look of honed granite better and I am wondering
if it would make sense to have it honed once it is polished--is this something
that is ever done, and if so, is it an expensive process? By the way, your
web-site shed a lot of light on my questions. Thank you so much!!!! July
01, Reply
|
| R1:
Just about all “granites” come polished by the factory.
Only a few fabricators have the equipment necessary to produce a decent
honed finish. About Costa Esmeralda is usually a decent choice, but I seldom
comment about any one particular stone. There may be differences within
the same stone (and I’m not talking about looks, here!) from one bundle
of slabs and the next. The slabs may have also been either “doctored”
(which is bad), or “resined” (which is good) by the factory,
which would make a big difference. Even more important, what’s a good
stone in the hands of some “Michelangelo”?!I did write a very
comprehensive article on “How to Shop for a Granite Kitchen Countertop”
that will give you all the intelligence you need to venture yourself with
confidence in the stone industry jungle! It does carry a small price tag,
but wouldn’t you rather have me beside you while you’re out
there?! Gimme a holler at: info@findstone.com. There’s a little
fee involved (as you will be told), but you’ll be glad you did. What’s
more, I will show you a way to get all of your money back! You can also
ask me how to get my comprehensive maintenance guidelines for residential
stone installations. Remember, when it comes to natural stone, maintenance
is an all too important yet neglected subject that should begin before you
even select it, as you can tell from several of this very site postings!
Don’t become another statistic!Ciao and good luck,Maurizio, Expert
Panelist |
| Q 5312: My
grandmother just passed away and I want to be sure that she is suitably
and lastingly memorialized, my family and I have convened to decide on an
appropriate marker for her final resting place. We are trying to consider
the aesthetics and durability of various rocks including, basalt, quartzite,
limestone, and granite. The choice is not simple and I was wondering which
one you would choose and why. Thank You for your time, Antonio, July
01, Reply
|
| R1:
Dear Antonio: Dark colored granite. Very little deterioration and maintenance.
Ciao and good luck, Maurizio, Expert Panelist |
| Q 5311: I
was wondering if you have found any help re cleaning head stones. I am English
and over there the stones are kept very clean because a service is offered,
so like you I think that there is a market out there. I have just purchased
a flat bed truck with 600 gal water tank, two 250 gall chemical tanks and
two 15 gal tanks, they are all in line to a hot / cold industrial pressure
washer. I have been finding a lot about what not to do to the stones, as
well as what to do. See how many stones have flowers on them and when you
think about how much they cost, $50 to clean a stone every few years is
peanuts, some would cost more. The flowers go on some graves three times
a year. I have had this plan on my mind for a year now and will soon be
getting at it. James, July
01, Reply |
| R1: Dear
James: Are you talking Imperial gallons, or US gallons? :-) Just kidding!!
Joke aside, is there a question somewhere in your post? Does your system
work? Have you tested it intensively? If yes, would you consider marketing
it in the US? Gimme a holler at: info@findstone.com. We can talk. Ciao
and good luck, Maurizio, Expert Panelist |
| Q 5310: I
am collecting reclaimed granite and micellaneous filed stones to create
a "crazy paving" for the front entrance to my house. Some of the
stones need smoothing and cleaning. Are there any tools available for smoothing
out rough granite and what would you recommend for cleaning? Thanks Silvan,
July
01, Reply |
| R1: Dear
Silvan: Yes, sure, there are tools! Do you have 5 extra grand laying around
that you want to get rid of? Ciao and good luck, Maurizio, Expert Panelist |
| Q 5304: We
are a small fabricating shop that bid a custom home based on using 2cm amber
fantasy. The owner has changed to 3cm. Could you advise us if the labor
should be more? If so, how much more? We know the 3cm will be heavier to
handle than the 2cm. Donna, July
01, Reply |
| R1:
Dear Donna:There’s no more labor. Actually, if you’d laminate
the edges of the 2 cm. there would more labor at doing that than the 3 cm.
That is one of the reasons why the 3 cm. is becoming more and more popular.
A couple of extra bucks a square foot, but less labor (not to mention the
necessary skills) to laminate a 2 cm. slab. Now I have a question for you:
what kind of guidelines for routine maintenance you give to your customers?
I hope you’re not one of the many who recommend glass cleaner of dish
soap! If you’re interested at getting a copy of my maintenance guidelines,
gimme a holler at: info@findstone.com. Ciao and good luck, Maurizio,
Expert Panelist |
| Q 5288: What
is the best method of attaching the dishwasher tabs to the stone countertop?
Stoeb, July
01, Reply
|
| R1:
Blue Pearl is a great stone, BUT do not do any baking---Flour loves the
natural ridges in the stone! It takes weeks to get out the flour!!!! MLL,
USA |
| R2:
I attached a hardwood strip with silicone caulk (clamp and allow to dry)
then used short pan head screens to attach the straps from the dishwasher,
Donhaton |
