|
| Q
6919: After
one week in our new (rented) home, the brownish granite countertop
has what appears to be round stains from a pot and a cup. It has been
there for 24 hours now. We think it is water. Is this possible? We
plan on putting granite counters in our new home that is being built;
but am now concerned about the wisdom of putting in granite. Should
we oil it? re-seal it? Connie, July
31, Reply |
| R1:
Dear Connie: Either your stone has not been sealed, or it was not
sealed right. Just because a contractor didn't do his job right doesn't
mean that you have to give up granite for your new home! I seldom
make final statements about any one particular stone. There may be
differences within the same stone (and I'm not talking about looks,
here!) from one bundle of slabs and the next. The slabs may have also
been either "doctored" (which is bad), or "resined"
(which could be good) by the factory, which would make a big difference.
Even more important, what's a good stone in the hands of some "Michelangelo"?!
Remember, all the gripes that end-consumers of stone post daily in
various Internet forums are all originated by the contractors, not
the stone! me now. Ciao and good luck, Maurizio, Expert Panelist |
| Q
6918: I clean slate floors for tele comp and wanted to know if their
is any special cleaner that i can use it is all new i use pine sol
n dish liquid they dont want any harsh clener on it . thnk you,
July 31,
Reply |
| R1:
Dear Dorothy: MB-1 marble, granite and more floor cleaner is "your
man!" Bear in mind, however, that they are going to have serious
maintenance issues with that stone to go way byond cleaning! Maurizio,
Expert Panelist |
| Q
6917: Can
Travertine be used for shower walls? Is it too porous for that? How
would you compare travertine to porcelein tiles with respect to durability
and ease of maintenance? Raj, July 31, Reply |
| R1:
Dear Raj: Contrary to popular and widespread misconception, travertine
is not porous at all. If well installed and maintained is a very enjoyable
material for a shower stall. Maurizio, Expert Panelist |
| Q
6916: I
recently re-did my bathroom using Man-made cultured marble for the
countertop. I asked the salesperson about this choice and he assured
me that this was an excellent choice for a bathroom. I am not using
the bathroom yet since I am having it painted and I've noticed there
a scratches all over the countertop that just won't disappear. I was
assured that this was not supposed to happen. Is this type of material
easily scratchable?? Please advise I'm in Dire Straits. Sharon, July
31, Reply |
| R1:
Dear George: I literally hate it when I hear a fabricator telli that
to a customer. I also sincerely hope they didn't apply any impregnator/sealer
to your countertop beliveing that's granite. Maurizio, Expert Panelist
|
| Q
6915: Dear
sir: I have a marble bust inherited from my parents who smoked for
over 40 years. the bust is yellowed any suggestions on how to clean
Ann C White, July
31, Reply |
R1:
Dear Ann:
50% Household bleach and 50% warm water;
A laundry brush;
Rubber gloves;
Patience and elbow-grease!
Do it outside if possible.
Ciao and good luck, Maurizio, Expert Panelist |
Q
6914: I
have been reading the findstone website and found that Question #4497
is exactly what I would like to know about. I, too, have the Shivakashi
granite installed in my kitchen (since last Tuesday). I got a small
amount of bacon grease on it and it made a dark stain. I thought the
installer put some kind of sealer on it( he said we should seal it
every two years and could buy the product at Home Depot). I would
know what to keep around to get stains out (the stove is surrounded
by the granite.
Also, the granite is on an island supported by cupboards but overhangs
the cupboards on three sides - 8" on one end, 12" on the
long side and 13" on the other end. We have no supports for these
overhanging portions. We are concerned about setting anything on these
area. The installer seems quite casual and somewhat unconcerned about
these overhanging areas. I am worried that cracking could occur because
of the stove cutout. What should we use to support these areas, if
needed.Thank you for your help Lynda, July
31, Reply |
| R1:
Dear Lynda: It looks like “Michelangelo” struck again! Yeah,
that’s exactly what he did: he wiped some sort of sealer on it
and smiled all the way to the bank!! And then he told you that you
have to seal it every two years yourself with some HD product. Amazing,
ain’t it?! Let me guess, he also told you to use glass-cleaner
or water and dish soap to clean your stone with, right? And about
the over-hang issue: by industry standards (one of the precious few)
the 12” and 13” must be supported with steel braces or wooden
corbels. BTW, just out of curiosity, did he hone/polish the areas
under the ever-hangs, or are they rough? Why did I know that?! :-)
Take a look at one of my countertop kits: they are on special sale
right now! Maurizio, Expert Panelist |
| Q
6913: our
installer used Hydrex when the stone was installed ...ours is Golden
Persia granite... any suggestions for a sealer? Jim |
| R1:
Dear Jim: The product used by your installer is a sealer already.
The question is: did the installer do a good enough job at sealing
your stone? Does water gets absorbed (darkens the stone temporarily)
when let sit a few minutes on the stone? If so, the sealing job is
not finished. (And if that’s the case I would highly recommend
my outlandish MB-4!) If not, the stone is sealed. Now, remember, it’s
never too early to think about the proper maintenance of your stone.
It’s a subject that’s all too often neglected and, as you
can tell by reading many of this site’s postings, you’re
not likely to get good information about it from your dealer or installer.
Don’t become another statistic! Maurizio, Expert Panelist |
Q
6913: I recently bought a white marble statue from Vietnam. I went
to the factory and selected the statue and signed the base. It was
shipped here in an open wooden crate and when it arrived there were
five small round brown marks on the statue (average size just bigger
than a quarter. The marks look like
rust stains. Unfortunately there is no-one at the factory that speaks
much English.
The
stain was not there when I saw the statue at the factory. I have
tried calling marble restoration people, one even came out and tried
to remove the stain but nothing happened.
I have
tried the following products to try and remove the rust stains:
toothpaste, white vinegar, Lime Away, a paste of Peroxide and Baking
Soda (left on for 30 minutes and sealed with plastic). It has been
suggested that I try Aluminum Oxide or Muriatic Acid but to be careful
that they don't
bubble.
I only
just found your website so I have probably been doing everything
wrong. Please let me know if there is anything that will remove
this rust like stain and how can I buff the marble after the stain
is removed. If you suggest a bona fide stone restoration contractor
please let me know how I find one. I am in San Francisco. Your help
will be very much appreciated. July 31, Reply
|
| R1:
Dear Anna: Don’t even think about using muriatic acid! Aluminum
oxide has nothing to do with it. Ciao and good luck, Maurizio, Expert
Panelist |
|
Q 6912: Dear Maurizio, I had a great conversation with you today about
marble in the kitchen and then I called the stone company where I'm
holding some marble to ask them about fabrication. Now I have two
questions left: what did you mean by "low honed" - just
taking the shine down a little? Barely honing the marble?Also, is
it necessary to put rods in throughout the countertops if the marble
is 1 1/4 inch thick? Thank you so much for your time and patience.
I truly appreciate it.Sincerely, Karen, July 31, Reply |
| R1:
Dear
Karen: “Low hone” means totally flat = no reflection whatsoever.
No, it is not necessary to rod all throughout: only in the weak spots,
i.e.: the narrow strips ikn front and back of the sink cot-out, etc.
Ciao and good luck, Maurizio, Expert Panelist |
| Q
6911: You
must be very busy since the Newsday article. I'd appreciate if you
had a few minutes to ponder my issue. I had Baltic Brown counters
installed December (2002). Recently noticed a great deal of pitting
-one pit is as wide as a dime and One is long - like the length of
a bobby pin. Mostly the whole surface is full of smaller "pits"
all across. My husband used the "do it yourself" sealing,
but that didn't get our smooth surface back. Is it beyond hope? Will
it get worse? I started using a special counter cleaner sold by Home
Depot that they say is especially for granite. Someone told me to
use Pledge but I haven't yet. Can I get the surface repolished and
smoothed out? Sorry, I know it's a lot of questions but I'm in a panic
over my counter's future. Thank you so much. July 31, Reply |
| R1:
Dear Anonymous: While Baltic Brown does present natural pitting more
than other commercial granites, what you’re reporting sounds
excessive indeed. It is probably a case of a poor grade slab. I’m
wondering how come you never noticed those pitting before. Nothing
can be done: no sealer, no cleaner, no grinding and polishing. If
those pits were not visible before I’d like to know how they
managed to mask them; but even if you could find that “magic
formula,” as you can see the result would be short lived. You
may have a case.Ciao and good luck, Maurizio Bertoli |
| Q
6910: WHAT
HAPPENS IF CLOROX IS SPILLED ON TRAVERTINE FLOORING? July
31, Reply |
| R1:
They
get wet and there’s smell of Sodium Hypochlorite all over the
place. Ciao and good luck, Maurizio, Expert Panelist |
| Q
6909: Dear
Maurizio, What are your concerns about using absolute black granite
for a kitchen countertop. Should it be sealed? John, July
31, Reply
|
| R1:
Dear John: BA used to be one of my very favorite. Recently there’s
been an invasion of black granites coming from all over the place
(all illegally labeled as Black Absolute) some of them processed poorly
and waxed, some of then “doctored” and some other no-good
altogether. As usual, the whole things boils down to the fabricator.
Good fabricators only buy good stone and they know what they buy.
Obviously, in an industry that’s virtually unregulated, how good
and reputable is the fabricator who’s going to process it is
far more important. That is why I seldom make final statements about
any one particular stone. There may be differences within the same
stone (and I’m not talking about looks, here!) from one bundle
of slabs and the next. The slabs may have also been either “doctored”
(which is bad), or “resined” (which could be good, but only
to a certain extent) by the factory, which would make a big difference.
Even more important, what’s a good stone in the hands of some
“Michelangelo”?! Maurizio, Expert Panelist |
| Q
6908: I
purchased a second hand coffee table with a marble top. It was beautiful
when I saw it at the sellers home. I had it delivered and paid for
it COD. About 2 days later, I noticed it had a big crack on one corner,
and a smaller crack on the other end, both of which were repaired
by the seller and not a bad job either, the repairs looks like natural
veins, except ... my question is, when looking at the table from a
certain angle, i.e., sitting on the sofa, you can see the finish (shine)
is off. What do you think I could do to put the finish back on, or
shine it up to match the rest of the table top? I thank you and appreciate
any advice. Ann Marie in New York July
31, Reply |
| R1:
Dear Ann Marie: You can’t put the shine back on the marble. Marble
is polished by abrasion and friction, like gemstone, not by applying
some sort of finish onto it. You need the services of a bona fide
stone refinishing contractor who will have to slightly re-grind (hone)
and polish your top. Ciao and good luck, Maurizio, Expert Panelist |
| Q
6907: I’m
considering various granite and commercial granite slabs, predominantly
from Brazil. Could you suggest what might indicate to me upon contacting
a slab yard that I had a knowledgeable salesperson? Should I expect
the salesperson to be able to offer me imbibition coefficients or
hardness Mohs for the stone they are showing me? Are there other ways
to gauge their knowledge? Thank you- Kurt Graves USA , July 31,
Reply |
| R1:
Dear Kurt: No, you can’t expect any of that. Most likely I wouldn’t
be able to answer those kind of questions myself. But, yes, there
are ways to gauge their knowledge. Obviously, in an industry that’s
virtually unregulated, how good and reputable is the fabricator who’s
going to process it is far more important. That is why I seldom make
final statements about any one particular stone. There may be differences
within the same stone (and I’m not talking about looks, here!)
from one bundle of slabs and the next. The slabs may have also been
either “doctored” (which is bad), or “resined”
(which could be good, but only to a certain extent) by the factory,
which would make a big difference. Even more important, what’s
a good stone in the hands of some “Michelangelo”?! Maurizio,
Expert Panelist |
| Q
6906: Hi,
I really need some advice. Recently while trying to affix a military
medallion to a family members headstone, some excess epoxy oozed out
from under the medallion. We tried to remove the excess epoxy with
nail polish remover - my problem is that the acetone "etched"
the surface of the headstone! It has a white film now that i can't
seem to clean off/remove with soap and water. Have I ruined the headstone?
Is there anything I can do to repair/remove the white "etched"
effect? It covers the entire surface of the stone - and believe me
- the family members have pointed out the damage - please help!
July 31,
Reply |
| R1:
Dear:
The acetone did not etch the stone: it affected the natural patina
the stone had built for itself over years of exposure to the weather.
Unfortunately there’s nothing that can be done. Nobody can blame
you for anything, either. I mean, all things considered, it should
be considered as an accident. Ciao and good luck, Maurizio, Expert
Panelist |
| Q
6906: We
are going to redo our shower which has a bad leak from the drain pan.
It has ceramic tile now and we want to replace the whole thing and
update the look. What is the best route to take? We looked at Dal-tile
tumbled stone. Would it be hard to maintain? It looks to be very porous.
I know we have a lot of work to do repairing the drain pan before
we get to that point. Thanks, Linda, July 31, Reply |
| R1:
Dear Linda: If the tumbled stone is marble it is not really porous.
If it is travertine, it is not porous, either, but I would have the
holes filled, or else they will harbor bacteria (mold and mildew)
in an environment such as a shower stall. If it is limestone, you
just don’t want it. Tumbled marble is by far the best for the
purpose and, once treated with my outlandish MB-6 stone color enhancer/impregnator/sealer
you will be in terrific shape!! You will still need to care for your
stone with good-quality specialty products, but that is what I am
in business for!! :-) Maurizio, Expert Panelist |
| Q
6905: I
recently had Travertine installed in a remodel, shower, floor and
rainscoat. The installer left a lot of areas unfilled when he grouted.
Should I have him back before we use it and re-grout the shower? What
is the best cleaning product for a travertine shower? Thanks, Scott
Rooks Tulsa, OK, July 31, Reply
|
| R1:
Dear Scott: You’d better believe it that you have to call that
guy back! Don’t even think about using your shower if it is not
properly and thoroughly grouted! Considering that he left so many
areas unfilled (which, if you ask me, speaks volume), you want to
hover over that guy shoulder and make sure that he sped the time to
push the grout (unsanded, kept slightly on the thick side and mixed
with latex – even if it is latex modified already) deep in between
the tiles. I sure hope that he did NOT butt-joint those tiles! Maurizio,
Expert Panelist |
| Q
6904: My
questions concern the age and process of formation for the Bluestone
quarried in north central Pa. What causes the difference in quality
of the stone; ranging from blocks so dense they must be drilled and
blasted out then recut at a mill into size, to medium quality that
can be cut and quarried onsite, to lower quality which is sold in
irregular size pieces for patios and walkways. Also what causes the
"rind" of the medium quality stone that encircles the quarriable
stone areas. Is ther any way to figure out where a good place to quarry
would be by observing the "lay of the land". Thank you DanF,
July 31,
Reply |
| Q
6903: Dear
Maurizio, We are redoing our kitchen and fell in love with something
called Labradorite extra. Looks a lot like Labradorite blue astral
but with tighter looking grain. We would use it only on the island.
(sorry, Corian on the countertops). The fabricator put "client
realized granite is more fissured and pitted than most" or something
to that effect. What am I buying and will it stand up?! Only 4 X4
island and not heavy use, just 3 of us and no young children. Thanks
Kay, July 23, Reply |
R1:
Dear Kay: For starters, Labradorite is the name of a mineral, nto
of a stone. Second, I never heard of that particular stone.Thirs andvmost
importantly, I
seldom make final statements about any one particular stone. There
may be differences within the same stone (and I'm not talking about
looks, here!)
from one bundle of slabs and the next. The slabs may have also been
either "doctored" (which is bad), or "resined"
(which could be good) by the
factory, which would make a big difference. Even more important, what's
a good stone in the hands of some "Michelangelo"?! Why do
you think thare are
so many inquirers posting their gripes on forums like this one? They
are not complaining about the weather, trust me!! Maurizio, Expert
Panelist |
| Q
6902: I just had granite counter tops installed in my kitchen (uba
tuba) it has only been a week and it looks as though it is developing
little pocket holes is that normal with granite? what can i use to
clean them on a daily basis and maintain the original shine?
July 23,
Reply |
| R1:
Dear Louise: No, it is not normal for Ubatuba to develop pits. It
must be a low-grade slab. Maurizio, Expert panelist |
| Q
6901: During
a recent move, I cracked a larged piece of polyurethane coating off
of a marble coffee table top. What would you suggest to remove the
coating, and to resurface it? (What would it cost to have it professionally
done?) thanks for your help- Jeff, July
23, Reply |
| R1:
Dear Jeff: Yes, have it professionally resurfaced. How much? I don't
know. Whatever the market bears, I guess! :-) Ciao and good luck,
Maurizio, Expert Panelist |
| Q
6900: I
am considering putting a slate floor in my galley kitchen. What are
the pros and cons of a slate kitchen floor? I have found some variegated
Indian and some italian slate that I like a lot. Any preference between
the two? Thanks, JeriZ , July
23, Reply |
| R1:
Dear JeriZ: The list of the cons is too long and, consequently, I
can't give it to you for free. What I can give you at no charge, however,
is the list of the pros: NONE! :-) Stay away from slate as flooring
material, especially, but not limited to, in a kitchen! Ciao and good
luck, Maurizio, Expert Panelist |
| Q
6899: I
saw your website mentioned in an article in Newsday, July 15. I currently
have a granite countertop called Sapphire Blue (or Brown Sapphire,
depending on the supplier). It was sealed by the fabricator when installed.
I would like to know the best way to clean it daily and if I should
be re-sealing it myself. If so, how often should I re-seal? Thank
you for your help- Dvora, July
23, Reply |
| R1:
Dear Dvora: for the re-sealing, when you will see that water will
bigin to be absorbed by the stone you will now that's time to do it!
Yes you can do it yourself: it's quite easy. Providing that you use
my outlandish MB-4, of course!! :-) Ciao and good luck, Maurizio,
Expert Panelist |
| Q
6898: I
have had my UbaTuba granite for about a year. It was sealed at the
time of installation. I am disappointed at how it shows smears and
watermarks. I am currently using Multi-surface Windex to constantly
clean up the marks. It dries quickly and does not leave streaks. The
installer recommended resealing at least once a year. Do you agree?
What cleaning and/or shine products do you recommend and why? Thanks.
Linda, July
23, Reply |
R1:
Dear Linda: No, I do not agree. Ubatuba should have never been sealed
to begin with.
That is probably why you have all those smears and watermarks. I do
not agree on the product you're using, either. If a product is not
safe on marble (and it is not. In fact their label does not mention
marble) it can't be considered safe on any stone. I know that the
label indicates that's safe on granite, but Ubatuba is far from being
granite! So, is that product safe on Charnockite? Why don't you ask
the manufacturer? Maurizio, Expert Panelist |
| Q
6897: I
am getting ready to do my kitchen and have decided to go with granite
kitchen countertops. I read your article about how some granite stains
so I decided to test them. I left a drop of oil and lemon on both
samples over night and they both stained. I really like both of these
granites though. I was hoping you could tell me which granite is better
when it comes to staining. One was called Juperana Golden Waves and
the other was called Mocca Sabia/ Desert Sand, July
22, Reply |
R1:
Dear Eve: Both stones have the same degree of absorbency (give or
take it). So it doesn't make much difference. What does make a difference
is the fabricator!
I seldom make final statements about any one particular stone. There
may be differences within the same stone (and I'm not talking about
looks, here!)
from one bundle of slabs and the next. The slabs may have also been
either "doctored" (which is bad), or "resined"
(which could be good) by the factory, which would make a big difference.
Even more important, what's a good stone in the hands of some "Michelangelo"?!
Remember, all the gripes that end-consumers of stone post daily in
various Internet forums are all originated by the contractors, not
the stone! Maurizio, Expert Panelist |
Q
6896: After
much debate, we decided to install Imperial Brown "granite"
in our new home. Armed with the wealth of knowledge from the distiguished
panelists (that means you, Maurizio!), I went to the fabricator before
they cut my granite template. I asked for a sample of the stone, and
they tried
to give me another 4x4 pre-cut sample. I demanded a piece from my
"own" stone. Thinking I was one crazy lady, the fabricators
complied. I then did the lemon/oliveoil/water test, and told them
that I did NOT want my granite sealed. Now they knew I was crazy...So
now I have my beautiful unsealed Imperial Brown countertops installed.
When we move in (not for another 2-3 weeks!) , I will do another lemon
juice test just to be sure, and then if necessary seal it myself.
So I am ready to buy MB-5 and MB-13, and possibly MB4. My question
now is, what if anything do I need to do to protect the granite while
the subcontractors are completing the house.. I dont want to go in
there after all this effort to find bottle etchings, water stains
etc on my new countertop. Is there something else I will need to clean
it with before I seal it? Thanks! Kristen, July
22, Reply |
| R1:
Dear Kristen: Why thank you for your nice words! :-) Cover it with
an old bed linen and then put sheets of hardboard or luan plywood
on top of that. That should do it! As for the cleaning before sealing
(if the sealing will turn out to be necessary) I would wipe our countertop
a couple pf times with acetone, discarding the paper towel often.
Ciao and good luck, Maurizio, Expert Panelist |
Q
6895: I used an impregnator seal and a water based surface sealer
on green marble tiles but the sealer solutions have left marks (striations)
all over the
tiles which can be clearly seen when the tiles are viewed at a certain
angle. I need to remove the sealers and start all over again and this
time I
need to a better a job of applying the sealers. ( I followed the instructions
carefully: I used a sponge to apply the water based sealer as
advised but it did not go on smoothly...unlike paint or polyutherane
the solution stays put and does not blend in). Any advise you can
give me to
solve these problems--how remove the sealers and how to correctly
apply sealer --- would be greatly appreciated. Susan Waters, July
22, Reply |
R1:
Dear
Susan: I have no idea what kind of water-based topical sealer you're
talking about.
I didn't even know that there was such an animal. Besides, I don't
even know why you felt the need to seal your stone so much. Why would
anybody wanted to apply a topical sealer to polished marble? You sound
to me like a victim (or follower) of the "sealing cult."
At any rate, Whatever the heck that sealer is, I'm sure that its manufacturer
will know how to remove it. Ask them. BTW: I truly feel sorry for
your poor marble with all that soffucation ... I mean, what on earth
did it do to you to deserve that? :-) You're in direct contact with
me now. Ciao and good luck, Maurizio, Expert Panelist |
Q
6894: I,
too read the Newsday article and performed your lemon juice and olive
oil tests on a sample of the granite I intend to use in my remodeled
kitchen. Happily, this sample did not absorb or stain. (Do I need
to go for the red wine and tomato, too?)
Everyone seems to ask you about black galaxy and I would like to know
the sealing requirements for jupurana viara. I have a very cooperative
fabricator who seems happy to indulge his “picky” clients
— I just need to know what to ask him. Will the stone be sealed
pre-installation or on-site once it is installed? How frequently and
how soon should it be resealed? I am sure he will do what I ask. I
just need to know what to ask.
Also, I am using a relatively smooth, (natural, but not honed) slate
from Brazil called “Montauk black slate” in tile form on
my kitchen and utility room floor. I would like to preserve the dark
grey color and not further darken the material. What type of sealant
do you recommend and what is the sealing procedure (i.e. How many
times pre-instalation and how often thereafter?) Many thanks. Maggie,
July 22,
Reply
|
| R1:
Dear Maggie: If your Juparana did not stain at all (especially) with
the oil. It may mean that the slab has been resined by the factory,
because all Juparanas ar absorbent materials. In quire with your fabricator.
If that's the case, then the slab does not need to be seald, ever.
If not, it's a mighty unusual situation! A resined slab is not all
too bad. Just be aware that you won't be able to put a hot pot from
the stove onto the top (the resin would be badly damaged), and that
a slow discolaration (darkening) may occur over tyme due to photosensitivity
of the resin. Now, remembr, it’s never too early to think about
the proper maintenance of your stone. It’s a subject that’s
all too often neglected and, as you can tell by reading many of this
site’s postings, you’re not likely to get good information
about it from your dealer or installer. Don’t become another
statistic! Maurizio Bertoli |
| Q
6893: HI!
I just read an article in our local paper, Newsday, about the findstone
web site. Hope you can help us... We recently installed a countertop
called "Juperana Florenza". Is it in fact "true"
granite and if so, does it need sealing or can it be sealed? Thank
you... Michael & Christine Sostack, July
22, Reply |
| R1:
Dear
Christine & Michael: (ladies first!) :-) No, it not a true geological
granite. It's Orthogneiss. Yes it does need to be sealed real bad
with a good-quality impregnator/sealer, like my outlandish MB-4! :-)
Unless the slab had been resined by the factory. Inquire with your
fabricator about that. Maurizio, Expert Panelist |
| Q
6892: Can
you identify the countertop I recently had installed. The name was
Giallo Veneziano. Any advice you may offer will be appreciated. Thanks,
July 22,
Reply |
| R1:
Dear Jane: Giallo Veneziano is part of the gneiss group, probably
orthogneiss. Maurizio, Expert Panelist |
| Q
6891: Could
you please give me some information on absolute black with a wire
brush finish (Zimbabwe Black). I need to know if it will hold up well
for a kitchen countertop and if it should be sealed, impregnated or
what. Thank you, TX, USA, July
22, Reply |
| R1:
Dear Elaine: Do NOT apply an impregnator/sealer. DO apply a good-quality
stone color-ehancer, like my outlandish MB-6! :-) Maurizio, Expert
Panelist |
Q
6890: We
just installed what is called a Baseltina countertop in our kitchen
at the recommendation of our architect, because we were told it is
stronger than regular granite. We have it by our sink, oven and then
a large slab on top of a kitchen island. However, the island counter
top stained immediately, and we ultimately had the contractors take
it away since it seems they did not apply any sort of sealer on the
correct side (it felt like they put it on the underside by mistake,
but that is another issue).
My question is this: Do you know about the stone called Baseltina
and what kind of coating it requires? July
22, Reply |
| R1:
Dear Susan and Brian: Basaltina is ... well, basalt! It's as absorbent
as asponge (as you already found out), and your architect is dead
wrong: it is not stronger than any of the commercial granites on the
market. Having said that, the only way to do (almost) get to enjoy
that stone is to apply massif doses of a good-quality stone impregnator/sealer,
like my outlandish MB-4 :-) Which begs the question: "Who's gonna
seal it?" |
| Q
6889: Hello I am currently attending grad school at new york university
and am taking an adavanced musical acoustics class. For my final project
I have decided to design the blueprint of a guitar with a thin layer
of granite on the face I predict that the acoustics of granite are
far better then that of wood and the granite could also provide an
electrical ground to the electric current in the electric guitar thus
avoiding any nosie or 60 cycle hums here below is my short informal
proposal that I am turning in and I am having problem locating facts
on granite such as the acoustical properties of granite the benefits
of granite over wood, and methods of laminating granite to wood if
you know of any helpful sources that could help me please let me know.
I have to turn in a 20-30 page research paper proving that the granitar
is superior to a regular guitar Informal Proposal
The
main objective is to research and prove that unlike wood, granite
is a far superior material to use in the construction of all stringed
instruments. Granite is a denser material then wood. By applying
a thin layer of granite to the face of a wooden guitar, when one
plucks a string, the sound results are much crisper and cleaner.
Additionally, because granite is so dense, when playing an electric
guitar one would not hear any artifacts such as a 60 cycle hum,
this is simply because the granite acts as an electrical ground
for the guitar. It would also be beneficial to apply this concept
to other stringed instruments such as a violin, double bass, or
even a piano. Areas needing discussion that I foresee as playing
an integral part to my research include: the acoustical properties
of granite vs. that of wooden material, the weight factor of granite
and how much granite would be needed for a guitar, as well as, suggestions
on how the granite could best be laminated to the wooden surface
of the guitar After considering the projects time restrictions and
because I cannot afford to physically construct a granite guitar,
I plan to provide a detailed guideline on how a granite guitar could
be constructed based on research that will hopefully prove that
granite is a superior material for constructing stringed instruments.
Fortunately, I personally know the inventor of the granitar and
will hopefully acquire an audio recording of both the electric guitar
and the granitar so that the 2 sounds can be compared. The results
of this project will be presented in a flash presentation. please
let me know what you think, July 19, Reply
|
| R1:
In 1998 I had the opportunity of visiting the marble Association of
Spain in Alicante. A man had been researching the use of granite as
organ pipes. You may contact him through the above association and
hopefully you will find the information you need. |
| Q
6888: Dear
Sir - Let me start by saying I am a totally neurotic person not to
mention a perfectionist. (I vaccum my house every night) With that
being said, I am redoing my kitchen and I have been debating whether
I should do Granite or Silestone. I love the look of granite but I
didn't want to worry about sealing it and having to check it every
night (I really didn't want another thing to do) I know I would lose
the beauty with Silestone, but I thought it would be better for me
since I would not panic every night. I was thinking of using "Blue
Pearl" Granite for the counter tops - (not sure if this is a
good choice ? but I love the colors) However, after reading the article
I am feeling that I would be better off with Silestone now. What do
you think ?? I have an infant and the last thing I want is more maintenance
and another thing to do at night - check my counters ! I would welcome
your opinion since right now I am not sure which way to go.
July 19,
Reply |
R1:
Dear Angela: I’m not sure I understand what you mean by having
“to check the granite countertop at night,” but I can tell
you that Blue Pearl (especially the darker version, GT) is as enjoyable
and “bullet-proof” as engineered stone (Silestone, etc.).
It does NOT need to be sealed.
With that being said – which takes care of the material –
the way I see it, in an industry that’s virtually unregulated,
how good and reputable is the fabricator who’s going to process
it is far more important. That is why I seldom make final statements
about any one particular stone. There may be differences within the
same stone (and I’m not talking about looks, here!) from one
bundle of slabs and the next. The slabs may have also been either
“doctored” (which is bad), or “resined” (which
could be good, but only to a certain extent) by the factory, which
would make a big difference. Even more important, what’s a good
stone in the hands of some “Michelangelo”?! Ciao and good
luck, Maurizio, Expert Panelist |
| Q
6887: We
had a marble floor installed last week in the foyer of our new home
by installers contracted by a reputable company where we purchased
the marble. However, we were disappointed by the look of the finished
product in that several floor tiles were not level, grout seams were
uneven and the black diamond shaped inserts (marble) when cut did
not have the smooth factory look edge. The installer used quite a
bit of putty under the tiles ( at least a 1/2 inch thickness) and
stated that contracters could walk on it 18 hours later. We are already
having problems. Any advise? Thanks, Jack, July
19, Reply
|
| R1:
Dear Jack: Yes, I do have a good piece of advice for you: get hold
of your lawyer! You have a case as big as your house! “Michelangelo”
worked in your dwelling! (Or was it his brother? … Same diff!)
Maybe you should consider put a commemorative plate or somethin’
on the wall of the room where the historical event happened!! :-)
You’re in direct contact with me now Ciao and good luck, Maurizio,
Expert Panelist |
| Q
6886: what
is the definition of veins on marble? what is the definition of fissures
on marble? how big do veins need to be before they are considered
a crack? Are there different kinds of veins on marble? if so what
are they? i have a marble counter top that has a fine line seperation
in the marble on the top that is glossed over and a parallel seperation
line on the botton of the table. Do veins run this deep? or is it
a crack? Please let me know. Thank you Sandta, July 19, Reply
|
| Q
6885: My nephew is a contractor and is remodeling my home. He is scaring
me. He ran into a problem after installing the 450 Sq ft. of Emser
"Rojo Elecante" Marble 12"x12" tiles. He has just
grouted the hallway today only, before he left he discovered that
after drying from the sponge wiping process every tile ended up with
something resembling hazed water marks and few trail like streaks.
He tried rewiping and cleaning, even used the cleaner your supposed
to use as a final cleaning in a (test area) and no matter what this
cannot be removed.
He
used Acculolor unsanded grout (a dark brown), I confirmed that the
recommended steps were followed and double checked with Emser Tile
and the groutwork was done right.
My
question is what could have caused it? And what can we try?
So
far the only plan mentioned is using a buffer machine with some
kind of paste he mentioned. Thank you. Rafael
July 19, Reply
|
R1:
Dear Raphael: The last thing you want to do is to rent a buffing machine
and try to polish that floor by yourself!! Your marble took enough
beating already!
Perhaps your nephew used a tile cleaner or a solution of water an
vinegar to sponge the grout. It that’s the case, the surface
of the stone got etched and needs to be professionally refinished.
Now, you’d better watch out! I consider stone refinishing as
the very pinnacle of all the activities related to stone, from a professional
point of view. Unfortunately, there are a lot of quacks on the loose
out there!
How could you tell a champ from a chomp? Could you trust the recommendation
of your local stone distributor, or contractor, or your interior decorator?
Hardly!
I did write a very comprehensive article on how to select a bona fide
stone restoration contractor, which will give you all the intelligence
you need to make a competent choice
Should you have any other question, ask away: you're in direct contact
with me now. Ciao and good luck, Maurizio, Expert Panelist |
| Q
6884: Please
help ! We recently had our bathroom tiled in travertine, while not
perfect, grout in holes,a few smears etc. I was delighted to see how
gorgeous they looked when we treated them with the impregnator,every
bit of their beauty showed up and all imperfections vanished,however
my joy was short lived,as when they dried they looked just as before.We
used a shine on them but it made no difference at all. Am I expecting
the impossible, are they not meant to look shiny,with deep beautiful
markings,or is it something we have done wrong. I am very dissapointed,our
bathroom has lost its WOW !! factor Ilook forward to hearing from
you love from Sue, July 19, Reply |
| R1:
Dear Sue: (love from you?... Mmmm … don’t let my wife see
this!! :-)) I’m afraid I have bad news for you. You should have
used a stone color enhancer instead of a plain impregnator. It’s
too late now, because if the impregnator is any good it will not allow
the stone to absorb the color enhancer. Stripping the impregnator
on a rough-finished stone is almost impossible. Sorry. :-( Ciao and
good luck, Maurizio, Expert Panelist |
Q
6883: Hi,
I have Imperial white counter in my kitchen (I wish I had found this
site before I decided on it). I used a poultice of baking soda and
water on a greasy stain (a method I had tried before and was satisfied
with). The stain was small but visible. I left that poultice on (I
did not cover it)
for 24 hrs. When I removed the dried poultice, the stain looked like
a gigantic water stain, which I know disappears. Well, this did not
disappear, and now I have a 6 inch in diameter stain right in the
middle of my counter. What do I do? Did I do wrong? I didn't think
baking soda stained, since I used that method before and was successful.
Please help me1 Thanks, Maria, July
19, Reply |
| R1:
Dear Maria, The
following are the comments received from my Installer/fabricator on
this problem.
“The
usage of sodium bicarbonate (baking soda) is not exactly the proper
method but it helps. Anyway, you should always cover the poultice
fully to ensure vacumn so that the poultice do not suck the atmospheric
humidity and its other impurities (oil, smog etc. which comes from
heavy cooking) and pass it to the stone. With a vacumn seal (plastic
cover over the poultice) the only sucking pressure is directed at
the stone to draw out the impurities from the stone into the poultice
(the poultice acts like a vacumn cleaner). Furthermore, water is
not the right medium to create vacumn effect. I do not know why
it worked the first time and not now. But I think if you should
try it again with a plastic cover creating a vacumn, it should help
tremendously.” Maria, Hope that its helpful to u. Best Regards,
Sameer Biala
|
| R2:
Maria,
Try, Prosoco’s 1260 Limestone and Marble Poultice or Prosoco’s
Oil and grease stain remover. |
| R3:
You
have etched the stone. You must realize imperial is a soft and porous
stone the baking soda and water created a some what alkali solution,
acid or alkalines will etched stone, acid working quicker. I would
suggest that you contact your local stone store and get some polishing
compound and buff the etch out. Use a hand held polisher such as a
Makita 9227 with a hogs hair pad on it and place water with the polishing
powder ( something like 5x or Stardust) keeping the suface wet polish
for about two minutes then whipe the counter with water and dry it
off, now polish the counter with a white polishing pad totallly dry
under the hand held polisher. I would suggest using white chaulk dust
net time or buy a rready made poultice that is neutral in Ph.Don |
| R4:
Maria,
I am a sculptor and I discovered that K2R (the spot lifter) works
for most stains except rust. Try it, ya got nothing to lose. JH
|
R5:
1.
not generally unless it is contaminated
2. no
3. yes, clean stain. Remove it before resealing
4. No. sounds like it is not working, use PROSOCO’S SLX-100 SEALER
AND STAND OFF STAIN REMOVER. |
| R6:
hi,
i suggest that you reseal your kitchen bench top by using maxseal
product. regards, william |
| R7:
Maria,Chances
are the spot on your counter is still shiny because of the sanding,
not the sealer. I would suggest you wait for it to completely dry
before resealing. |
| R8:
May
I suggest it is not etched, as I assume you realize, if an acid has
dissolved the surface you would have the result of lessening of a
shine not a constant. Also keep in mind sealers are good but limited
in their protection, they impregnate below the surface and reduce
the stain and liquid absorption but do not protect the actual surface
from acids. Good luck, Gary Davis |
| R9:
ALL
CHEMICAL REACTIONS HAS TAKEN PLCACE. WHITE STONE IS OF LIME MIXED
IT IS NOT 100 SILICA. SO YOUR SODA HAS PALYED WELL TO CREATE POROSITY
TO ABSORBE WATER. YOU MUST SEAL IT WITH EPOXY CATALISTIC(TWO PACKING
SYSTEM ) COMPOUND ONLY TO STOP THIS WATER ABSORBING IN THE POROSITY.
ONCE THIS IS DONE AFTER APPLYING EPOXY RESINS RUB ON TOP WHITE ZINC
COATING(CATALISTIC COMPOUND SO ALL WILL END WELL.WHITH A SHENN ON
TOP TO GIVE ORIGINAL COLOR.KINDLY DON'T UASE ANY CHEMICALS FOR CLEANING.TYHERE
ARE CLEANING COMPOUND SO BUY FORM CONTRACTORS/ DEALERS AND USE IT
FOR FUTURE. THANKING YOU. AN INTERESTED PERSON IN THE WELFARE OF STONE
USERS. GOD BELSS. |
| Q
6882: I
have Saturnia marble on my floors and have small holes appearing in
it where I have heavy foot traffic. How do I close them so that they
do not catch dirt? Thanks Leya, July 16, Reply |
| R1:
Dear Leya: For small repair like that, nothing beat some color-matching
caulking material!. Fill, the holes by “mounding” them and
them shave the stuff flush with the stone surface with a razor blade.
Wait 24 hours before walking on that area. Ciao and good luck, Maurizio,
Expert Panelist |
| Q
6881: we recently moved into a brand new home with 12x12 granite tile
countertops. I believe after looking at pictures that it would be
called Black Galaxy. Unfortunately the builder did not provide us
with the exact info. Anyway, it appears to have been sealed as it
is fairly shiny. Howevery in some spots it is rather hazy. We have
lived there a couple months so I imagine I did something to make it
hazy. I was never given any advice on how to care for the countertops.
I used 409 a few times. Probably a bad thing..however just water does
not seem to get it clean. Is there a product I can use to clean it
better? Also, can I make the hazy part go away? Lastly, how often
and what product should the countertops be resealed? Also, is it safe
to put hot items on the granite? Thank you for your time :-) Lara
Mukilteo, WA, July 16, Reply |
R1:
Hi back, Lara: Granite (like any other stone) is polished by abrasion
and friction, not by applying a sealer onto it. The nice shine you
have now was made by the factory and a sealer for stone does not alter
in any way, shape or form the original factory finish. Or does it?...
A sealer for stone (impregnator) is supposed to be absorbed by the
stone and none of the stuff is to be left sitting on it. Certain “granites”
like Black Galaxy don’t absorb anything – including the
sealer. In fact, you do NOT want to apply an impregnator/sealer to
Black Galaxy! I suspect that the haze you have is related to the presence
of some residue of the stupid sealer that had no business being there
in the first place. The sealer that’s been damaged by your formula
409 or other improper generic cleaners. You may have to have the impregnator/sealer
that was applied to your stone removed by the “genius” who
applied it thinking that BG is granite! Maurizio, Expert Panelist |
| Q
6880: Go
to a local monument company. They will know the rules of the cemetery
to help you select a stone that complies with the size and type they
allow. They will also do the installation. The monument company will
personally assist you in selecting the right memorial & design.
Sometimes its a good idea to look in the cemeteries for ideas as well.
I own a monument company located in central Pennsylvania. July
16, Reply
|
| Q
6879: I
have recently heard of contractors making concrete counter tops. do
you or any of your readers have any knowledge of this type of counter
top? i would be interested in knowing if they are resilient and after
reading the article in New York's "Newsday" paper whether
they stain. i would be interested in using this application both in
the kitchen and bathroom. any information you or your readers have
would be greatful. July
16, Reply |
| R1:
Dear Andrea: Yeah, concrete countertops are quite trendy nowadays.
They spell: T-R-O-U-B-L-E to me, however. The absorbency issue is
easily controlled with the application of a good quality stone impregnator/sealer.
The etching issue (sensitivity to acids – like marble) can not
be controlled. Stay away from it. Ciao and good luck, Maurizio, Expert
Panelist |
Q
6878: I had a PANIC ATTACK this morning while reading the Newsday
article dated 7/15 - One Woman's Hard Times With Her Granite Countertop.
My new kitchen is being installed 7/19. I grabbed my sample of GIALLO
VENEZIANO DARK and tested it with bottled lemon juice, cooking oil,
red wine, tomato sauce, fresh tomatoes and blueberries. Thankfully,
nothing was absorbed for about 15 minutes. However, I am still nervous.
Please tell me anything you know about my granite. IS IT A TRUE GRANITE
OR IS IT REALLY ANOTHER STONE? DOES IT HAVE TO BE SEALED? I feel that
I cannot trust the granite yard after this article. I would greatly
appreciate any information as soon as possible. Also, I am very interested
in your products to clean and seal if necessary. Do I use your product
to clean daily? How often do I have to seal?
Finally, are there any special cleaning and maintenance instructions
for a porcelain floor tile. The store recommended latex to mix into
the grout. What do you think? Tile man said no! Store said that installers
find it hard to work with the latex in the grout, but the latex makes
the grout stronger. I am confused. Thanking you in advance. Marilyn,
July 16, Reply
|
R1:
Dear Marilyn: Some classify Giallo Veneziano as granite. I am not
convinced (it look like garnet to me!). At any rate, if your stone
doesn’t absorb a thing, it was either properly sealed by the
fabricator (GV does need to be sealed real bad), or it had been resined
by the factory. At any rate, it sounds like you’re in good shape
in the “sealing department!” For daily cleaning (which is
far more important that the sealing thing) I recommend my MB-5 and
MB-13 team (be stingy with the latter!).
Finally about the grout issue: the store is right, the setter is wrong.
Ciao and good luck, Maurizio, Expert Panelist |
| Q
6877: Does
the lemon juice test work for marble as well as granite? I am putting
crema marfil select tiles on my kitchen floor. Will a sealant help
to keep it from staining? I am putting Tan/Brown countertops in the
kitchen. Are there any obvious problems using this granite? I did
not see any references to it on the website. I have installed Breccia
Oniciata tiles on the shower walls, floors and a matching slab on
the vanity top of my master bath. Is sealing required on all the tiles
and vanity top? Finally I am putting blue pearl tiles on the floor,
halfway up the walls, tub surround and a matching slab on the vanity
of my kids bath. Is there anything I need to worry about there? I
would be happy to pay for a consult, . Rosemarie, July
16, Reply |
| R1:
Dear Rosemarie: I already answered your query.
You do NOT want Crema Marfil (or any other polished marble for that
matter) on a kitchen floor!! Ciao and good luck, Maurizio, Expert
Panelist |
Q
6876: We are trying to decide on a durable and maintenance-free (or
low maintenance) countertop for our new home (we cook a lot). The
stone on the floor is a Summer Wheat slate and the cabinetry is a
light cherry. I know that granite is very durable, but we really hate
the speckled and glossy look. We want something modern and uniform,
that does not have much movement (veining, spots, variation, etc.)
in it. The options that we are considering are the following:
Soapstone (our first choice)
Absolute black honed granite (although after reading your response,
I think we'll pass on this one)
Black Zimbabwe (honed)
Pietra Serena (honed)
Pietra Bedonia (honed)
Pietra Griglia (honed)
We are also open to using a honed slate, but do not have any idea
about which one to use.
Any and all suggestions would be greatly appreciated! Thanks, -Matt,
July 16, Reply
|
| R1:
Dear Matt: Soapstone. About possibly choosing honed slate, I feel
sorry already for the slate you have on your floor!! :-( Ciao and
good luck, Maurizio, Expert Panelist |
| Q
6875: Hi,
I looked up the water absorption on Black Galaxy ( 0.5 - .15% ) ,
but I don't know what the numbers mean. Is this granite easily stained?
Of course I plan to seal it. Please advise. Thanks, July
16, Reply
|
R1:
Dear Andrea: I don’t know, either!! :-) I have Black Galaxy in
my very busy kitchen for over 8 years now. I plan to seal it, too.
It’s a good thing, however, that I kept the “sealing cult”
at planning level and never got around to doing it!! That is probably
why I never had any problem or any stain!! :-)
Regardless of those numbers, Black Galaxy does not absorb a darn thing
in real life terms, not even the impregnator/sealer! Do NOT –
I repeat: do NOT – apply any impregnator/sealer to it! Now, remember,
it’s never too early to think about the proper maintenance of
your stone. It’s a subject that’s all too often neglected
and, as you can tell by reading many of this site’s postings,
you’re not likely to get good information about it from your
dealer or installer. Maurizio, Expert Panelist |
| Q
6874: Can
you tell me what type of stone Giallo Santo is. I bought it believing
it to be granite, However, after reading you web site info, I'm no
longer sure. It passed the lemon juice test with no absorption. But
it has a grease spot from mayonnaise. I read your suggestion of using
a poultice. Would nail polish remover work for the acetone? Thanks,
Mary, July
16, Reply |
| R1:
Dear Mary: Never heard of it. Never heard that a “Giallo”
is a true geological granite, either! About removing the oil stain
I wouldn’t use nail polish remover: many of them have only traces
of acetone and also have different other chemicals – including
oils. Get acetone at your local hardware store. After that, apply
a good-quality stone impregnator/sealer, like my outlandish MB-4 (!!).Maurizio,
Expert Panelist |
| Q
6873: We
have had black galaxy in our kitchen for about 2 years and are very
happy with it. I believe I read on your site that it need not be sealed
and I wanted to confirm that. Additionally, is there anything we should
do treatment wise? Thanks-Matt, July
16, Reply |
| R1:
Hi back, Matt: You’re right, BG doesn’t need to be sealed,
ever. That doesn’t mean that it doesn’t like to be pampered,
though! I do that to mine all the time by using my MB-5 and MB-13!
:-) (Be stingy with the latter: a thin coat no more than once a week.
It’s simply amazing!) Maurizio, Expert Panelist |
Q
6872: I
read with interest the article in Newsday about your expertise. I
am in the midst of having my bathroom done and have chosen a green
marble (Quetzel Green) for my vanity and seat in the shower.
I would like to know two things:
1. Does this marble have to be sealed ... and how many times?
2. The fabricator is holding two slabs for me ... one has more white
veining in it, which I find more appealing. Am I better off selecting
the one with less white in it?
I'd appreciate an answer from you since I have to go to select it
next week. Thank you very much. Sincerely, Joan, July
16, Reply |
R1:
Dear Mrs. Schwartz: I never heard of that particular marble. At least
not under that name! Typically green marble does need to be sealed
(two application of my MB-4 will do).
Maurizio, Expert Panelist, |
Q
6871: My tile installer is having difficulty installing white Thassos
marble mosaic (5/8" X 5/8") tile, which is on sheets of
1 square foot each. There are eighteen mosaic tiles down each side
of the sheet, thus there are 324 individual mosaic tiles on 1 square
foot sheet.
I asked him to install the tile on a diagonal on my bathroom floor.
He has difficulty with the tile because it is flimsy; (1) he cannot
cut it, (2) he cannot lay it properly and keep the lines straight.
My tile installer has difficulty cutting the tiny pieces with the
wet saw because the mesh backing is so flimsy, and the tiles move
considerably when he tries to cut them. Does he have to cut each mosaic
tile individually, or is there a better way to cut mosaic tiles? It
is a very large bathroom and that would take a very long time. Secondly,
when he lays the tile down, the lines don't match up. He says the
flimsy background pulls the tiles unevenly.
The mesh backing on these mosaic tiles IS extremely thin and flimsy
compared to other mosaic tile. When I questioned the seller, I was
told that all mosaic tile "now" (as of about one month ago)
has this new thin mesh backing, but this should in no way affect the
installation.
Do you know of this "new" thinner mesh backing for mosaic
tile?
Is there a way to keep the lines straight when he installs the tile
on the floor?
This tile installer is otherwise very competent and I am happy with
his work. Thank you. Pamela, July 12, Reply |
R1:
If you purchase mosaic tile then installation is going to be much
more. If this was me I would have told the seller what our were for
the installation. I would have had the mosaic section made for the
pattern you wanted to be on the wall. Mosaic separates the expert
installers form the rest of the group, almost anyone can lay it on
a horizontal surface but a wall is another thing.
He could mount the tile and grout it on a backer board then cut and
install the entire unit and regrout. This is an amateur way of doing
it, a real pro would be able to set the tiles individually solving
your problem. Don |
| R2:
I just
want to comment on tile mesh subject.Your tile setter is very capable
this is not the issue.The quality is poor and I have found this cutting
of corners beginning to become a common place.The mesh should hve
been of a greater stiffness to allow a durable cut.You get what you
pay for.Let this be a lesson,know your supplier before your a buyer.
Brayan |
| R3:
Dear
Pamela, He shouldn’t have difficulty sawing when he puts something
rigid under the tile ( and above, if necessary) If he lays the tiles
along a thread keeping straight must be easier. SR |
| R4:
Your
installer does not sound like he is very experienced in this mosaic
field. Yes, all the mosaics need to be individually cut. He should
not be trying to cut an entire sheet on a wet machine. Each mesh sheet
usually needs to be fully spread apart and aligned carefully with
the other sheets. The can be openned up slightly with a sheetrock
knife when necessary.
When
working in areas that will not accept a full sheet, the sheets that
need to be cut should be precut with a sheet rock knife and then
laid on the floor. All the extra individual cut pieces must be done
one at a time to fill in any excess area. White thasos needs to
be sealed and he needs to work extremely carefully not to stain
the material. Be especially careful when grouting. In my opinion,
Use only white grout. Mark
|
R5:
Dear
Pamela, Perhaps you could suggest to your installer to make the mosaic
tiles rigid by applying either white cement on the back or epoxy.
He could lay the tiles upside down on a flat material. He could get
some scrap marble or granite pieces from a local marble shop. They
usually throw away smaller pieces like this.
A flat surface like this would allow the mosaics to sit perfectly
flat and while in the upside down position, he could line up the joints
by shifting the mosiacs. Perhaps draw a square on the granite slab
with a white out marker. They sell them at Staples.
Once he is satified that the pieces are straight and square, he can
make them rigid applying epoxy from the back.
Even a hot glue gun can be useful to tack some of the pieces together
from moving. He could do a combination of hot glue and then epoxy
using a small trowel.
The epoxy will normally get hard in about 5 to 10 minutes.
I don't know the quantity but the resulting tiles will essentially
be 1 foot square rigid tiles and will be very easy to cut and install
even on vertical surfaces.
Our company manufactures mosaics with rigid backing using a special
cement formulation and moulding the stones this way. I hope this might
be useful to you. Tony Stewart |
R6:
Hi Pamela, What your installer should do about the half tiles that
are neither here or there is remove them from the sheet and then seperately
'chop' them in half or thirds as required (any smaller denomination
is a waste of time since it will not be noticed). Lay the sheets leaving
the 'gaps'. Then these pieces can then be added individually.
The best way to chop the stone cubes is to use a 'hammer and hardy'
used for centuries by mosaic artists.(see
link for example) Also some tile nippers can be used. We are mosiac
artists and often work with such mosaic cubes. Occasionaly we are
asked to assist tile installers when they are confronted with such
tasks. Good luck with the installation Alex |
R7:
This
issue is very common with mosaic sheets. To make these cuts, I cut
a1/2" thick piece of plywood the size of the mosaic sheet or
a bit larger and I place this on top of the sliding tray on my tile
saw, then adjust the cutting height so tile blade cuts into plywood
1/16". I then use a thin piece of wood 1/4" x2" x 12"-16"
to hold down the mosaic tiles right next to the cut line and slowly
feed tray into the saw to make cut. This helps make straight cuts.
As for laying them straight. Many mosaics when they get wet (from
cutting)come loose, or get mis-aligned. I lay out these cut sheets
on a dry towel to dry out (or in the sun)before setting them. Also,
once set in place, minor adjustments are always necessary to align
with adjacent tiles.
This does take more time on the part of the tile setter, and more
$ should have been figured into the bid. Consider discussing this
issue with your tile setter, perhaps he is rushing because he did
not figure this extra effort into the bid. Good luck, contact me if
you have further questions. Tad |
| R8:
I
w'd prefer to write to you in frensh but l'll try in english and i
hope you will understand my idea. I advice you installer to make 10
metal frames 3 mm thiker and same size of the tiles, then he puts
a sheet in each frame, buck words position, then add wet wet cement
and plaster to make the level with the frame. In this case the sheeets
will be more stable. To cut the sheets in diagonal the installer can
make a triangle form, about 5 cm thik which he fixes on the machine,that
will give him the possibility to cut 5 suporposed sheet at the same
time. I hope that will help you. best regards. hassine |
| Q
6870: I
just move in to a house that has “granite” counter tops,
I went to a store and it seems that I have either “Labrador Green”
or Uba tuba, they really look very similar. Are they the same stone?
Well around the faucet there is a ring of build up which I clean with
Lime Away and it took the build up out but still the counter top is
not shiny and is a little whitish around the faucet. Can I restore
this part to its original look? Do I need to treat the area with a
poultice and then seal it? I am not sure if this stone needs a sealer.
Daniel Diebra, Houston, Texas, July
07, Reply |
R1:
Dear Daniel: The fact that your countertop is not as shiny as it used
to be is probably due to improper maintenance from the previous owner,
i.e. if they used dish soap and water to clean their countertop with.
I encourage to use my MB-3 soap film remover to thoroughly strip whatever
gunk is sitting on you countertop (that should also take care of the
whitish deposit around the faucets), and then take it from there with
my MB-5 + MB-13 team!
No, that stone doesn’t need to be sealed at all. And if it was
originally sealed, then it could also be a contributing factor of
the lack of shine. If tha’t;s the case, MB-3 won’t do much,
but you would still have an improvement. Maurizio, Expert Panelist |
Q
6869: I
have two questions:
1) Is gneiss available/appropriate for kitchen countertops with kids
and active family?
2) Does Juperana Classico Dark go by another name?
Thanks, Dee Altman, July
07, Reply |
| R1:
Dear Dee: IF the gneiss is sealed properly with the right impregnator/sealer
and by the right operator, then you shouldn’t have any problem.
But it’s a big “IF!” And to tell you the truth, I’m
more concerned with the operator than the quality of the sealer! All
too many contractors don’t take their time to do the job right.
To properly seal a Juparana you will need to do at least two applications
of a good-quality impregnator/sealer (like my outlandish MB-4) –
three applications would be even better – at an interval of 24
hours between each applications. Very precious few contractors are
going to do that!! That is why I’d rather have the homeowner
do the sealing! It’s very easy! Maurizio, Expert |
| Q
6868: We
recently had Golden Leaf 12x12 tile installed in our kitchen. The
tile turned very dark and is now discolored, but slowly some places
are turning back to the original color. The manufacturer says the
tile turned because of oil used in the installation and that is will
work itself out and turn back in a few weeks. Our home is new construction
and I don't want the counters ripped up one month after we move in.
Should I insist it be replaced now? Everywhere I read it says oil
stains granite. I have to make a decision ASAP before they move forward.
Thanks for your help July 07, Reply
|
|
R1:
Dear Johnette: They use oil in the installation??! If that’s
the case, then you’d better start having those things ripped
out right now!! It sounds weird, however: why should anybody use
oil to install “granite” tiles? You’d better make
sure of the cause of the discoloration. If it’s only water
(setting material) it will go away, but if it’s oil, forget
about it! Now, remember, it’s never too early to think about
the proper maintenance of your stone. Maurizio, Expert Panelist
|
| Q
6868: can
you help me make an informed decision between volga blue granite and
emerald pearl granite for countertops? Thank you, Debbie, July 07,
Reply |
R1:
Dear Debbie: They are both excellent stones,
providing that the slabs are a good grade and were processed right.
There’s always more than one factor involved. That’s is
why I seldom make final statements about any one particular stone.
There may be differences within the same stone (and I’m not talking
about looks, here!) from one bundle of slabs and the next. The slabs
may have also been either “doctored” (which is bad), or
“resined” (which could be good, but only to a certain extent)
by the factory, which would make a big difference. Even more important,
what’s a good stone in the hands of some “Michelangelo”?!
I did write a very comprehensive article on How to Shop for a Granite
Kitchen Countertop that will give you all the intelligence you need
to venture yourself with confidence in the stone industry jungle!
It does carry a small price tag, and you can order it by logging on
the Educational Literature of my It's available in pay-per-download
format and I consider it a tiny insurance premium to pay when there
are thousands of $ involved! Should you have any other question, ask
away: you're in direct contact with me now. Maurizio, Expert Panelist
|
| Q
6867: I have a 3 ½ year old granite kitchen countertop in Ital
Green. I love it, it is green with a black grain and some brown in
it to match the cabinets. I tried to get a spot off it and was unsuccessful
until I started doing some research on the internet and found your
site. I am very grateful for all the information you have posted on
there. The acetone took the spot out. I have some other dark spotting
with darker lines in the stone and also small round white marks which
I don’t think were there before. The countertop where the spots
are is on either side of the sink and on either side of the stove.
Also, where two pieces of stone have been butted together to form
an angle, the stone is dark black for about a quarter of an inch on
either side. This does not really bother me but I think it is an indication
that something was not done correctly. The kitchen store where I purchased
my countertops and cabinets gave me the number of the gentleman who
installed the countertop. The installer gave me a couple of solutions
to get the spot out but none worked until I used the acetone. The
installer also told me that I could reseal the countertop myself with
some sealer from any home store. I paid a lot of money for this counter
and I really like it. I have never sealed a countertop and don’t
want to take the chance of doing it myself. I am not afraid to use
the acetone to get the rest of the dark stains out but I have not
tried it on the white spots.yet. I have several concerns – can
you tell me anything about the white spots, and will the acetone take
care of these? How often should a granite top be re-sealed if at all?
Do you think I have any redress with the installer? I did everything
on the countertop from cutting vegetables to making pie crust. Now
I’m afraid to do anything on it. Thank you, Karen Graves, July
07, Reply
|
R1:
Dear Karen: About the dark spotting with darker lines, they could
be stains, but then again they could just be natural veining in the
stone. Poulticing them with acetone or salon-grade hydrogen peroxide
won’t hurt. Worse gets to worst, they just won’t come out.
As for the whitish pots, there’s no such an animal. I’m
not implying that you’re seeing thing, mind you; I’m just
saying that stains are always darker than the stone, never lighter.
So, I really don’t know what you have there.
On the subject of the darker lines along the seam, the fabricator
obviously used a bonding material that was not 100% solid (epoxy and
such). Consequently the die of the coloring agent of the glue has
been absorbed by the sides of the slab. There’s nothing that
you can do about that. Do you have a case against the fabricator?
To a certain extent, yes, you do. But what do you expect them to do?
The only solution is to replace the countertop!
As for the sealing issue, I have reached the conclusion that I’d
rather have the homeowner do it. I witnessed all too many instances
in which the contractor didn’t take his time to do the job right!
What’s a good impregnator/sealer, if you don’t apply it
right? Applying an impregnator is very easy indeed: you just have
to take your time. Maurizio, Expert Panelist |
Q
6866: My husband and I chose Black Galaxy for our kitchen counters
(mainly due to its beauty) and were pleasantly surprised how much
the findstone site, and you all in particular, like it as a countertop
product. I understand from you that BG does not need to be sealed
and you personally have had it that way for 8 years at home with no
problems..... Good enough for us! So tell me about the MOLD conspiracy
theory I got today?!
Okay, so right now (as I write), they are installing the BG. I have
told them I do NOT want it sealed. Being prepared for an argument
I came armed with a letter to say I did not want my BG sealed and
that I authorized these workers to skip that part. There was minor
concern/confusion and then the regroup about 30 minutes later. You
see, according to the men doing the install, if I don't seal the Black
Galaxy 'granite' then "as a porous stone, liquid will soak thru
it, pool under in the plywood and then you will grow mold." That's
a direct quote. Now I think that's a bit far fetched but I turn to
you for two reasons:
1) Looking for support on my no seal decision (must stay strong!)
2) Is the mold issue a crock of poop?! Please enlighten me cuz even
though my brain laughs at the idea, I really HATE mold....
Thanks in advance for your input and I'm holding firm- still no authorization
for sealant- but we are only half way done today....Sarah, Reply,
July 07, Reply
|
| R1:
Dear Sarah: Don’t worry about paying my consultation fee: your
report made me laugh so hard that I should be paying you for the entertainment!!
It’s a crock of poop all right, and big time, too!! One the biggest
whoppers I ever heard in my life!! BG (a gabbro) is among the densest
stone on the market!! Just for the heck of it, why don’t you
ask your “Michelangelo” what stone BG is? Do you really
think they know?? Tell’em to go seal the Black Galaxy of their
sister!! And, most importantly … don’t forget to pamper
your newly installed countertop with my MB-5 and MB-13. It deserves
them both!! :-) Maurizio, Expert Panelist |
| R2:
If your countertop material is truly granite
all you were told is fiction. Igneous stone is not absorbent nor does
it leak fluids. We have lots of Deer Isle granite tops and several
of our neighbors have other granites from around the world. All have
had superb experience with these tops. Granite is NOT porous unless
of course it is some ersatz stuff about which who knows what can happen.
Sealing will be extra bucks for their pockets so of course it is in
their interest, but not the stone's. Run through to the plywood underneath?
What plywood? These top are installed directly over the cabinet uprights.
Pretty fancy story! Bob |
| R3:
Hi Sarah, Sounds like a bit of misinformation floating about! No,
your benchtop does not require sealing, but it wouldn't hurt anyway!
The stuff about the mold is ridiculous, and it's embarrassing to me
as a tradesman to know that there are idiots that carry on like this.
Even
if mold developed under your countertop (highly unlikely) how would
anyone know? It would more likely be caused by water leaking from
a tap and dripping down behind the splashback, then seeping under
the countertop.
What
is the real reason for your installer's objection to your refusal?
Maybe it's their company policy to seal every product surface without
understanding why, and they are afraid that you will call them back
in the future. I suggest you let them seal the Black Galaxy so they
can sign off their work and leave you in peace. Simon
|
| R4:
Granite
does have some porosity, but not enough to soak up liquids, and then
grow mold. I have been in this business for 27 years, and have never
heard of mold under countertops before. Tad |
R5:
The "Water Absorption by Weight" of "Black Galaxy"
usually tests out at between 0.05 and 0.15%. (as in 5/100ths and 15/100ths
of One Percent!) This is a test where a precisely weighed block of
granite is immersed in water for 48 hours and then carefully re-weighed.
These figures speak for themselves. Black Galaxy is one of a few types
of granites that do not need to be sealed in a kitchen counter application.
Your installers probably deal with many different kinds of granite,
(most of which would be problematic in kitchen counter applications
if not sealed) so it is not surprising that they insist on sealing.
They may even make sealing a condition of warranty. There are environmentally
safe sealers available if that is the concern.
Water getting through to the underlayment via the joints between slabs,
slab to splash joints, sink to slab joints is far more likely but
very easy to mitigate.
Test it for yourself. Take a piece of the same granite (the sink cut-out
for example), clean it well with a rag and acetone to remove any existing
oils (or to reveal any artificial darkening stain) and lay down a
tall bead of silicon caulk to form a dam. Set the granite on some
blocks of wood tall enough so that the underside can be viewed. Carefully
fill the dammed up area with some water and re-examine every 6 hours
or so. (Add a few drops of dish soap to the water to eliminate any
surface tension.) Make certain to keep the water level topped up to
keep up with evaporation. A 1/4 inch of water is not a lot of hydraulic
pressure on the rock, but it is more water then you would usually
find on a kitchen counter for days on end. You could make another
caulk dam at the same time and carefully fill it with piping hot peanut
oil and let it stand for a day or two. It is another good test to
see if oil will darken or change the shine of your particular piece
of Black Galaxy. I seal every table I make except those made with
highly polished Galaxy, Cambrian, or Impala Black. Glad to be of service,
Doug |
| R6:
Black Galaxy is a lava-like stone, not a granite , therefore open
of structure due to gasses leaving the stone when cooling. The people
installing Your kitchen top are technically right, allthough in practice
the “holes” are minute; water will probably never reach
the wood of the kitchen. In answer to Your “sealant” problem;
the plates Black Galaxy are usually allready treated with sealant
( silicone or otherwise) in the quarry in India, to hide natural defects.
The discussion therefore seems utterly useless |
| R7:
If
I were you, I would let the suppliers seal your Galaxy Granite. The
pool effect you describe is highly unlikely to happen It would take
an awful lot of water and an awfully long time for such a thing to
happen, if it ever did happen at all! I would seal it because in a
kitchen environment there is likely to be a lot of oily foods around
and sealing the worktop will help prevent any slight penetration into
your worktop. It would also make it easier to remove if you did have
any problem, the chances of which happening are remote any way. Better
safe than sorry! It certainly wont damage your stone to have it sealed,
and should anything untoward happen, you will be in a stronger position
than by refusing to let the installers seal the worktops. Either way,
if you treat your worktops with a little respect, it shouldn’t
make any difference. (just to let you know, our company seals all
its kitchen worktops before they leave the factory and again directly
after fitting. when the sealer has dried the residue is rubbed off
using a cloth damped with sealer and then with wire wool) Sorry for
the delay in sending you this reply to your querie |
| Q
6865: I
am having installed marble slabs on the walls and floor of my bathroom.
Much to my dismay the slabs were not "booked." Assuming
that the slabs were purchased in sequence, can one expect that a fabricator
would make sure that the slab panels matched from one to the next?
Can one expect that a fabricator would talk to the client to learn
what area of the walls, for instance, might feature the slabs with
the most "drama or movement?" Can one expect where chipping
occurs, that the installer would use salvage pieces to find a match
for the chipped area, or that in the instance of a tiny chip that
epoxy be used that matched the color of the chipped area? Is it reasonable
to ask that the seams be repolished due to ragged edges? My installation
is in the San Francisco Bay Area. Sue, July
07, Reply |
| R1:
Dear Sue: Yes, all the things you listed can be expected. But what
is your point? I always complain about the lack of industry self-regulation,
but your points are beyond any possible regulation. You can’t
expect that an industry puts out guidelines imposing an idiot to be
a genius, can you?! Going solely by your description of the work delivered
you’ve got a “Michelangelo.” Either you’re able
to work things out wikth your fabricator, or you’re going to
have to suck it up. And do your shopping better the next time. Now,
it is certainly not your case if nothing else because the subject
is different, but do you know how many times people ask me questions
about, say selecting a granite kitchen countertop (and a good fabricator
– but they never specifically ask about that) but won’t
spend a mere 12 bucks to buy my piece of literature that teaches them
everything about it? At the time of the shopping everybody is concerned
about one thing and one thing only: the color of the stone! Never
mind it’s a piece of crap; never mind the fabricator is a jack-ass!
It looks like those are secondary issues!! And they “save”
their 12 bucks … and then, later on, they post queries like yours
… Like I said, your case is different, yet – I’m sorry
to say it – part of the blame is on you: if all you’ve been
reporting is true, there’s no way you can convince me that your
fabricator has a good reputation. Now, remember, it’s never too
early to think about the proper maintenance of your stone. It’s
a subject that’s all too often neglected and, as you can tell
by reading many of this site’s postings, you’re not likely
to get good information about it from your dealer or installer. Maurizio,
Expert Panelist |
R2:
Generally,
quality fabricators will discuss how each client would like to view
each slab. If there is a particularly dramatic section, we usually
allow our clients to choose where to feature this section. Regarding
"book matching", in years past, most marble slabs were "booked".
However, this
requires an extra step at the quarry/fabrication plant before it is
polished. Thus, if you want your slabs to be book matched, then they
usually must be ordered that way (at extra expense). Rough, ragged
edges are not acceptable (indicates poor equipment, and or, skill
in the fabrication process. Ask your installer to correct these items
before you make your final payment. If needed, call their competitors
for a consult. Good luck. Tad |
| R3:
The
answer is yes to all your questions, however if you have negotiated
hard on price and used one of the cheaper fabricators / installers,
it would not supprise me at all that you have encounted such problems.
In my experience, to achieve a high quality job I have often quoted
double (or more) the amount that some of my competitors have.
Rich |
| R4:
A
good fabricator will know how to match the slabs were there will be
seams. As for the movement, you can always tell your fabricator how
you want it to go, they should know if it is possible or not. |
R5:
Bookmatched
slabs are something that you should special order and is not something
you could just buy from any slab yard. Unless you specified that they
should be bookmatched, I would not find it strange that your fabricator
did not do it.
You should have enquired before hand and specified what you wanted.
Regards, Adriana |
| R6:
Sue,
Afabricator normaly would number the pcs. with a diagram for instalation.
The chips can be fixed with a polyester resin colored to match the
stone. If the seams are not level grinding and polishing would be
necessary. However if the installer used grout on the seams the can
not be polished. |
| Q
6864: What
is your review on Chinese "granites?" Are they bad quality?
Some have told me yes and other ahve told me they are of the same
quality. I am looking into buying a lot from China but I don't want
to get burnt by buying bad materials than will break easy or look
bad in a few months or year. What are the different types of granite
qualities? Are there categories of quality? How can you tell if it
is a good "granite" or a poor piece of "granite?"
Curtis, July
07, Reply |
| R1:
Dear Curtis: Questions like yours always amaze me! What a country’s
got to do with the “quality” of their natural products??
I never read anywhere that the Man upstairs invented geography and
political borders! Stone from China can be as good and as bad a stone
from Italy, Brazil, Rwanda, The Faroe Islands, or what-have-you. About
the quality of the fabrication of the slabs, that’s a totally
different story. China has still a long way to go at learning that!
Ciao and good luck, Maurizio, Expert Panelist |
| Q
6863: I
was wondering if limestone flooring was a good choice for our newly
renovated kitchen. I have a 2 ½ year old and a 2 month old
and was concerned about stains and sealing the floor every couple
of year. What is your view on this. Thanks, July 07, Reply |
| R1:
Dear Annette: Only Jerusalem limestone (the darker version) is dense
enough and acid resistant enough to withstand the traffic typical
of a kitchen. All the rest is a big no-no. You could also consider
honed and filled travertine. Now, remember, it’s never too early
to think about the proper maintenance of your stone. It’s a subject
that’s all too often neglected and, as you can tell by reading
many of this site’s postings, you’re not likely to get good
information about it from your dealer or installer. Don’t become
another statistic!. Maurizio, Expert Panelist |
| Q
6862: We'd
like to ask your advise about choosing between granite and quartzite
for kitchen countertops in our kitchen remodel. So far we haven't
been able to find sufficient information to help us decide. We do
love the look of granite, but yesterday saw a slab of quartzite that
was beautiful. Can you help? The granite we like is called GIBLEE
and I think it is from Brazil. The quartzite is named IMPERIAL BLUE
LIGHT QUARTZITE also from Brazil. I've been assured that either stone
we use will be sealed when it is installed, and have been advised
it's best to reseal yearly. Our fabricator said the quartzite will
be slightly more absorbent and should be sealed maybe twice a year.
I question the advisability of using either for the kitchen, but just
love the beauty of the stones. Can you tell me the advantages or disadvantages
to the granite versus quartzite decision. We understand that Granite
is better for the kitchen counter top than marble, but are stumped
on the granite versus quartzite comparison. We do know the quartzite
is more expensive but need to know about the functional comparisons.
Thanks for your help. Pattie Cafaro July 2004, July
07, Reply |
R1:
Dear Pattie: The assessment given to you by
your fabricator about the fact that quartzite is slightly more absorbent
than Ghibli is correct. What I don’t agree with them is the idea
of having to apply an impregnator/sealer every year of twice a year!!
I really don’t know what kind of crappy products they plan to
use, but I never heard of an impregnator/sealer that wouldn’t
go at least two years. My outlandish MB-4 will go 10 years or better!
Furthermore, a product – any product – is as good as the
operator who uses it. What I mean by that is the more often than necessary
fabricators don’t do a good job at sealing, especially when it
comes to stones as absorbent as those you indicated. Hopefully your
fabricator will represent an exception. Although I have to consider
the application of a sealer a professional task, I’d rather have
the homeowners do it! At least they will spend the time necessary
to apply it as many times as necessary to finish the job, and at the
right interval of time (24 hours is always best, no matter what the
directions on the product’s bottle say) between each applications.
Once either one of those stones will be properly sealed, it will be
routine maintenance as usual, providing that you’ll use specialty
stone products (or else you will be damaging the sealer in no time!)
Maurizio, Expert Panelist |
| Q
6861: I
am starting a granite business and I need to know what books you would
recommend on fabricating. I am a sub-contractor currently installing
the grantie. But I want to be sure to get the quick easy methods about
fabrication before i get to far. Thanks for your time, July 07,
Reply
|
| R1:
Dear Hans: Allow me to be candid with you. They are “professionals”
like you that really scare me. You want to learn how to fabricate
“granite” countertops – which requires years of experience,
not to mention the necessary dedication and wits – by learning
the “quick easy method” out of a book!! I’m afraid
that another “Michelangelo” is about to enter the stone
industry stage! I’ll be here available to answer the gripes of
your unfortunate future customers. And the show goes on! Ciao and
good luck, Maurizio |
| Q
6860: I
have Tropic brown in my kitchen. Can this stone become etched from
using antibacterial cleaners such as 409? What spray antibacterial
cleaner would you recommend if etching could be a problem. Thanks
Anna, July 07, Reply |
| R1:
Dear Anna: You don’t expect me to spend my time and resources
testing all the disinfectant/cleaners on the market to find out if
the will damage Tropical Brown in the long run, do you?! :-) I only
spend my time and resources to test my own products to make sure that
they deliver every bit of their advertised performance. And, because
of that, I do know that my MB-15 is safe because we intensively tested
it on all sorts of stones! Maurizio, Expert Panelist |
| Q
6859: I
am in the middle of a major house extension project and have been
using your web-site to research which natural stones to but. We have
just purchased some wonderful Indian sandstone for use as flooring
in our new kitchen. Our architect has surprisingly just told us that
we have made a mistake as sandstone is not suitable for kitchens.
As you seem to very knowledeable I would welcome your views. Provided
proper sealant is used will sandstone be ok. It looks fantastic and
we want to keep it that way. Many thanks, Andrew, July
07, Reply |
| R1:
Dear Andrew: Providing that you apply a good-quality stone impregnator/sealer
(like my outlandish MB-4!) you will be all right … I hope! What
I mean by that is that while most sandstones are quite hard and wear
well, a few are quite soft instead. In that case, considering the
kind of intense traffic typically going on in a kitchen … Ciao
and good luck, Maurizio, Expert Panelist |
| Q
6858: I
have just installed a new counter top which consist of three colors,
red, almond and grey. However, over the past few days, I have noticed
that the grey parts of the counter top have been rough or have a few
chips “like pencil erases”. What can I do to fix this? Should
I have my contractor replace the entire counter top or is there some
other opitions? Please advice. Sherry, July
07, Reply |
R1:
Dear Sherry:
No need to replace the countertop. Chips of that size can be filled
successfully, but it’s no DIY project. Call your fabricator back
to address the problem.
Now, remember, it’s never too early to think about the proper
maintenance of your stone. It’s a subject that’s all too
often neglected and, as you can tell by reading many of this site’s
postings, you’re not likely to get good information about it
from your dealer or installer. Don’t become another statistic!
Maurizio, Expert Panelist |
| Q
6857: Hi
we just m,oved into a house with some sort of white rock set behind
the fireplace. It as well as many of the walls in the room are blackened.
Any suggestion how to clean the rock and is it the chimminey needing
to be cleaned? Chris, July 07, Reply |
| R1:
Dear
Chris: About the chimney I wouldn’t know. About the white rocks:
1. Warm water and household bleach (2:1); 2. Open windows; 3. Masking
all around; 4. Rubber gloves; 5. A laundry brush; 6. Lots of patience;
7. Lots of Elbow-grease! :-) Ciao and goiod luck, Maurizio, Expert
Panelist |
| Q
6856: I
have had granite for 18 months...I should have resealed it...which
I will. But before I do, there is a stain I want to remove. This week
I had a small water leak from my kitchen faucet. We have hard water,
and there is a white mineral deposit on the surface of the granite
(a green black & butterfly-blue-flecked granite from Madacascar
called Caeleacanth or Madacascar Blue) in a two inch area around the
base of the faucet. How do I get it out? I am afraid to do anything
until I know what I am doing or get advice from an expert like you.
What kind of stain is this? It was not on your list. July
07, Reply |
R1:
Dear Linda: I’m not really familiar with that particular stone,
but I saw it last year at a stone convention (BTW, it’s gorgeous),
and if memory serves me right, I believe that it does not need to
be sealed. Did you run my little lemon juice (and oil) test on a piece
of scrap?
As for the stain you’re reporting, the reason why it is not reported
in my guide about stain removal is because we’re dealing with
a mineral build-up, not an inbedded stain. Remove the worse with a
razor blade and finish the job with a tad of “Lyme-a-way”
(spelling?). Maurizio, Expert Panelist |
| Q
6855: I
have granite counters in my kitchen. By the sink I had a stainless
steel container holding liquid Dawn the blue one. Some of the Dawn
and possibly water was left under the container overnight. I was told
to leave it that it would come up by itself after a few weeks. By
the way my granite is sealed . Some of it did, but not all. I used
a commerical poultice with water, that helped a little. I want to
try the poultice method that Maurizio recommends, but don't know which
chemical I should use? Should I treat it as organic, inorganic , oily
, or metal. I was told that Dawn has some dyes in it, but I was also
told I should treat the stain as an oily stain.So I don't know which
method of stain removal I should use. Help. Thanking you in advance,
Brenda, July
07, Reply |
| R1:
Dear Brenda: It’s liquid soap. Poultice it with just water several
times. If you are in hurry, poultice it with my MB-3! Maurizio, Expert
Panelist |
| Q
6854: Hello,
I had seen on one of those HGTV shows, the new styles of kitchen counter
tops, the were actually slabs of sones, like malachite, lapis and
other beautiful stone being fabricated somewhere. Do you have any
information on this type of counter top? Your reply is greatly appreciated.
D, July
07, Reply |
| R1:
Dear Dera: They are absolutely gorgeous! And they will stay gorgeous
for ever … for as long as you will never use your countertop,
that is!! Another stupid trend ill-advertised by the media that are
always thirsty of something “different,” no matter what.
I can assure you that they wouldn’t pass my little lemon juice
(and oil) test!! Ciao and good luck, Maurizio, Expert Panelist |
Q
6853: Our
granite counter top fabricator/installer core drilled the holes for
our commercial counter top 1/2" too large, causing the stainless
steel support posts which are inserted into these holes not to properly
align nor remain upright. We have attempted a variety of solutions
to this matter to include the installation of plastic bushings to
"fill the gap", however, these too have cracked and failed.
We are looking for a concrete/stone/granite "filler" that
we could insert (liquid that would harden is preferred) into the hole
to fill the gap. We would support the stainless post while the product
cured and then fill the very top of the hole with colored seam sealer
to hide the product below. Do you know of any such material/product?
I thank you in advance for your assistance. Sincerely Roger, July
07, Reply
|
| R1:
Dear Roger: My first instinct was to suggest you to mix marble or
granite dust with epoxy glue, (not a DIY project to begin with) but
then I re-read your posting and realized that the plastic bushing
cracked and failed … So, I really don’t know. Sorry. Ciao
and good luck, Maurizio, Expert Panelist |
| Q
6852: Hi,
MGT out of Amarillo, Texas told me to contact you and see if you could
help me. I have a blue granite countertop that I have had for 7 years.
For some reason in the last several months I have noticed that when
I used OrangeGlo Wood Floor Cleaner and Polish on my hardwood floors
and I would set the bottle on my countertop it has been leaving a
permanent raised, I guess I would call stain. It is a perfect replica
of the bottom of the bottle so I know that is where it is coming from.
(It took me a while to figure this out. I knew the spot was there
and nothing would get it off, but I could not figure out where it
was coming from.) I do not understand after all this time why the
counter would stain and what can I do to get rid of it. The counter
is finished and I have never had anything else not come out of it.
Your suggestions would be greatly appreciated. Terry White Dalhart,
July 07,
Reply
|
| R1:
Dear Terry: It looks like the oil contained in that product was absorbed
by your stone. Keep in mind that for those kinds of product they use
very thin penetrating oils. You’re going to have to poultice
the stain out. When it comes to stain removal, either you buy one
of those expensive “Professional kits” (that no true professional
ever uses!) at a stone retailer near you, or you can spend less money
and get my comprehensive guidelines on how to remove stains by using
inexpensive and far more effective means that you may already have
in your household! Maurizio, Expert Panelist |
| Q
6851: We
have moved into a house with a black granite countertop. The previous
owner has seemingly scrubbed a small patch about the size of a quarter
with an abrasive cloth...like a brilo pad. There is therefore a small
patch with no shine. Can I, and if so how would I restore it? Thanks
Simon, July
07, Reply |
R1:
Dear Simon: If I have to take an overly optimistic guess I would say
that, possibly, there are at best a couple of dozen professionals
in the whole country who could do what it needs to be done to restore
that little patch. Don’t take it personal. But I somehow doubt
that you’re among those selected few!! :-)
If you don’t want to call a pro (assuming that you can find one),
try to darken that patch with a good-quality stone color enhancer,
like my MB-6. It won’t make it shiny, but it will make it black
like when is wet. Maurizio, Expert panelist |
| Q
6850: Hi,
I have a one-year-old home with extensive Rojo Alicante flooring.
It was installed by a very skilled artisan, but was “sealed”
by the general contractor in order to save time. The stone was originally
very shiny and glossy, but now has dulled quite a bit. There are a
couple of areas where it looks like something was dripped on the stone
and (I fear) etched it, and these have been there since the day we
moved in. In another spot the floor looks streaky, as if a wax was
unevenly applied and smeared. My questions: Do I need a professional
to refinish the etched spots? Do I have to do the entire floor (several
hundred square feet)? Can I get the smeary wax off? What can I use
to bring back the shine? What do I use for regular day-to-day cleaning?
The stone shop sold me a product called “Mira-Clean #1”
which doesn’t do squat. I have used every other readily available
product that indicated it was safe for marble. PS Is it safe to use
Tylex Fresh Shower Daily Shower Cleaner on my Rainforest Green? Stacy,
July 07,
Reply |
R1:
Dear Stacy & Spencer: For starters, polished Rojo Alicante - a
compact limestone from Spain – should never be sealed. (Not even
with my outlandish MB-4!)
Second, a sealer for stone is not a wax: it’s a penetrating,
below surface sealer that clogs the pores of the stone so that it
won’t get stained if some liquid is spilled and let sit onto
it. In order to work, a sealer for stone (impregnator) has be absorbed
by the stone, and none of the residue is supposed to be left on the
surface. Since RA doesn’t absorb a darn thing (not even the sealer!)
sealing it produces only one thing: make money to the manufacturer
of the sealer, the dealer, and the idiot who applies it for not knowing
any better! Benefit to your marble? None whatsoever!! Having said
that, it is obvious that your GC applied the impregnator as if it
were a wax and left the residue (the whole thing, in this case!) to
dry on the surface of the poor marble. Can it be buffed? Hardly. It
is not a wax! It has to be removed, but, according with the make of
the impregnator, it may turn out not to be an easy thing. About the
possible etching you’re reporting, it has to be addressed by
a professional stone refinisher. The same stone refinisher should
be able to strip all the stupid crap sitting on your marble, as well.
But … I must warn you: I believe that your marble has had enough
stupid things done to it. It does not need some more idiocy, don’t
you think? What I mean by that is that you’d better watch out!
I consider stone refinishing as the very pinnacle of all the activities
related to stone, from a professional point of view. Unfortunately,
there are a lot of quacks on the loose out there!
How could you tell a champ from a chomp? Could you trust the recommendation
of your local stone distributor, or contractor, or your interior decorator?
Hardly! Maurizio, Expert Panelist |
| Q
6849: Hi,
I had tropic brown installed in my kitchen and love it, but am really
concerned about how to clean it. I have shildren running in and out
and the counter top is heavily used. I saw this on your web site below
that it will never etch. The company that installed it is telling
me I can use only special granite wipes "stone bright" or
hot water to clean it and never use a spray cleaner like 409 telling
me it will etch. I am really concerned with bacteria in the small
crevices and really want to use an antibacterial cleaner. Especially
with the high traffic in the kitchen. Can you advise me? Anna, In
its own, "Tropic Brown" is an extremely tough cookie and
will never etch. July
07, Reply |
| R1:
Dear Anna: I have stone wipes (MB-17), a regular stone spray cleaner
(MB-5), and a disinfectant/cleaner (MB-15) as well. Which one do you
want? :-) Maurizio, Expert Panelist |
| Q
6848: I
have limestone counter tops in my kitchen and they keep getting stains.
I have sanded and resealed with a variety of "sealers" with
varying degrees of poor results. The problem comes mostly from acid
based liquids such as orange juice or vinegar. What can/should I seal
these with? Thank you for your time. Jim Heck, Fombell, PA,
July 07,
Reply |
| R1:
Dear Jim: Would you like to meet a billionaire?
Find the guy who can come up with a solution to that problem and you’ll
have a billionaire right in front of you!! Chemistry couldn’t
do the first thing. The only hope is alchemy!! (You know, turning
lead into gold and stuff like that?!...) Now you know why you do NOT
want limestone and marble in a kitchen. At least not in this country!
Ciao and good luck, Maurizio, Expert Panelist |
| Q
6847: I
tried the lemon test on a sample piece of granite of the type that
I am purchasing for installation in the kitchen. It did not seem to
absorb at all which per your guidelines is good. Do vendors usually
seal samples? Also I was wondering if you have heard of a stone called
Giallo Argento and if so what are its characteristics? Is it granite?
I was told it is a relatively “new” find in the granite
world. Per this test it seems to be a good choice for the kitchen.
Thanks, Gary, July
07, Reply |
| R1:
Dear
Gary: No, they usually do not seal samples, but the slab where the
sample comes from could have been “resined” by the factory.
I never heard of that “new granite,” but then again, even
it turns out to be a good stone, what’s a good stone in the hands
of some “Michelangelo?” I did write a very comprehensive
article on “How to Shop for a Granite Kitchen Countertop”
that will give you all the intelligence you need to venture yourself
with confidence in the stone industry jungle! Maurizio, Expert Panelist
|
| Q
6846: I
am buying a new home that will be completed soon. For the kitchen,
I really like the look of black granite countertops. I was hoping
you might be able to give me some advice on that. The sample I was
shown was marked "Zimbabwe" and was a deep black color.
You have remarked in some of your answers that this or that granite
is too porous, or that people should run away from honed black granite.
I guess what I'm asking is-- what should I be asking? What should
I be aware of before selecting black granite countertops? Appreciatively,
Joe W, July
07, Reply |
| R1:
Dear Joe: I’m a little confused here. You are talking about a
deep-black color on Zimbabwe, but then you mention hone-finished black
granite that’s certainly not black. So which one is it? If it’s
polished, there are no problems, but … bear in mind that Black
Zimbabwe is not really black, and the fact that you reported a “deep
black” is mighty suspicious in my book. Zimbabwe is one the “black”
granites which are “doctored” the most. And you don’t
want that!! My little lemon juice (and oil) test is a must!! All in
all, I seldom make final statements about any one particular stone.
There may be differences within the same stone (and I’m not talking
about looks, here!) from one bundle of slabs and the next. The slabs
may have also been either “doctored” (which is bad), or
“resined” (which could be good, but only to a certain extent)
by the factory, which would make a big difference. Even more important,
what’s a good stone in the hands of some “Michelangelo”?!
Maurizio, Expert Panelist |
| Q
6845: I
have a marble dining table that has some sort of clear coat on it
so it is shiny. However, it is scratched everywhere. I have tried
everything and can't seem to make the table look nice. I called a
marble guy in my area and he told me forget it there's really nothing
you can do. Any ideas whould be appreciated. Thank you. Kathy, July
07, Reply |
| R1:
Dear
Kathy: It’s called: trading a problem with a solution for another
one without one!! In the furniture industry many use to coat marble
table tops with some sort of hard-shell coating (shellac, urethane?)
to eliminate the most common problem attached to polished marble surfaces,
which is: etching. (Marks of corrosions that acidic spills - such
as drinks lemonade, orange juice, salad dressing, the wrong cleaning
products, etc. – make on the marble surface on contact.) While
the etchings could be easily repaired by a stone restoration contractor,
or by the homeowners themselves by using “Marble Repair Kits”
the topical coating applied to avoid that problem can’t be serviced.
The only solution would be to strip that stuff with Methylene Chloride
and then refinish the marble surface by honing and polishing. No amount
of money would be enough to entice me at using that stuff!! Ciao and
good luck, Maurizio, Expert Panelist |
| Q
6804: I've
heard no discussion of any negative environmental impact or long-term-supply
issues with the extensive use of granite for kitchen countertops.
I'll use it for our new townhouse if I can be confident that we're
not being irresponsible using all of this material from the earth
for countertops when there are good alternatives. Perhaps, even such
extensive use for countertops is neglibible compared to building facades
and other large-scale uses, but I rather doubt that. I'd be interested
in your point of view. You must have some concern about the long term
impact of your industry and the supply for your great grand children.
Ken Ford, June 8, Reply |
R1:
A question I am sometimes asked and quite easy to answer . Primary
quarrying and transformation of natural stone for the dimensional
stone market has one of the lowest environmental impacts of all quarrying
activities . In relation to the extraction of stone for aggregate
and cement production the scale is very low. The CO2 cost to produce
a unit of material for a granite kitchen top is 10% of that to produce
a unit of a cement based product . Carbon dioxide CO2 Long term impact
of dimensional stone usage in both the west and east is negligible
.In the European and North American markets there are strict environmental
constraints relating to this OK well easiest to explain on the production
of cement based products . Consider how much CO2 is released when
quarrying a block of granite . Energy used mean CO2 released in fossil
fuel usage. So energy used in the quarrying aspect , processing and
finishing in the factory.
On cement production you have a similar energy cost ( thus similar
CO2 impact) on quarrying Then you have the processing of the limebased
product this releases CO2 then you have the processing of the product
more C02 than the dimensional stone .
The final sting in the tail is disposal. Once a cement based product
has ended it life it has CO2 implications on the environment. Hope
this helps. Tony |
| R2:
I
would be surprised if the extraction of granite pollutes the atmoshpere
as more modern, manufactured items may, and the work this provides,
across continents, is very important, especially in the less developed
countries. Real life includes compromise. |
R3:
Competitive
construction materials e.g. cement, ceramic, metal, plastic, glass,
are made using massive quantities of electricity and oil which, in
turn, use up irreplenishable resources as well as create irreversible
pollution in their making.
Granite lasts for centuries - so the overall requirement in the long
term of different materials for construction gets greatly reduced.
Usage of wood results in loss of life-giving trees and in devastation
of forest lands.
There is no waste in granite excavation. Blocks are used to make slabs
and tiles. Smaller pieces are used to make foundations, pillars and
walls in village houses which are thus low cost, more attractive and
permanent. Smallest pieces are made into road metal by crushers. After
excavation, the quarries are refilled and converted into agricultural
lands. |
| R4:
Ken, With all due respect, there must be a myriad of other things
to worry about. The only health negative I am aware of is the silica
in granite when it's released by drilling, dry grinding & polishing,
which can cause silicosis. Most of the granite deposits (quarries)
I've been in have billions of cubic feet of stone and can quarry for
millennia. (providing real jobs, as opposed to sittting behind a computer)
It is a magnificent resource; use it with gratitude. |
| R5:
Funny
could not thing that that any one could be serious in this matter
would they rather we use resin based products bla bla bla they must
be very bored Gary |
| R6:
You
have raised a very pertinent point, which is valid for all stone including
granite, marble and limestone. We as a stone company are very aware
of the mountains gradually being eroded. For this reason we have many
alternative products which are sustainable and that use silica sand
and aggregates which is a by-product of quarrying industry ( Capitalstone,
Pietraviva, Cristallo). We also supply stone in reduced thickness
(Stellar Stone) with fibre glass backing and aluminium honeycomb reinforcement.
This reduces consumption by half and because of reduced weight saves
on transport/fuel costs. Joanna |
| R7:
Use
as much granite as you like in your new house, without hurting your
conscience. There is a super-abundance of this igneous rock on the
planet. For example, all the quartz sand on all the sea shores is
derived originally from the erosion or breakdown of granitic rocks.
There are whole mountains all over the world made almost entirely
of granite. I speak as a geology graduate. Andrew Hoare. |
R8:
I do agree with you on some points ,but need to ask you some questions
first? you said that there are alternatives,well ! what are these
alternatives, lets see together,wood,i dont think that usung wood
and cutting trees is not harmful at all,another alternatiive could
be resin and acrylics,pleae let me
ask you a quastion,do you have any idea how much resin and acrylic
factories har the environment?
any way it all about a choice we should do,we are using earth resources
in every domain,wehen we use all the metals,per example steel, i dont
thing there is any tree in the world that produces steel is there?
there are huge mines and huge idustries to produce this metal,if we
choose not to use it well no problem at all,but no car no bridges
no these things any more,and if you want my personal opinion,we can
ride horses as 200 years ago but the system we live in does not accept
it anymore... lets go for any construction material,bricks of clay
or bricks of cement are all explored from mother earth,paintings need
calcite in huge quatities,and still it is from earth,any ceramic we
have is from earth,so either we do not make any constructions anymore,we
can go to the tents again,me myself i have noproblem with this at
all,but lets ask all the countries that are proud of their high rise
buildings do they accept? human being is ruinig earth,yes he is,well
we should pay the concequaces |
| R9:
Dear Ken, This is in reply to your concerns about the use of natural
stone as a resource - which is finite I may add.Alternatives do exist
and the man made ones (resin composites) are not biodegradable and
more to the point - for most third world countries - its a resource
that creates employment and generate revenue. That should be of greater
concern is the price being paid to the primary producer - as the retail
margin bears no relation to cost.Yes - I know its all about supply
and demand - but fair trade should play a part in all our business
dealings. Trust me there is ample stone to supply your descendents
to the end of time - we live on a rock. So don't lose any sleep -
soothe your conscious and pay top dollar. Dipak |
| R10:
In regards to granite countertops and the depletion of granite from
the environment. When you consider the extensive contaminates released
from the processing of man made products and their impact on our environment
such as laminates and Corian like products the environmental impact
of mining granite is very minimal.
Granite
can also be remanufactured and reused. It is rarely if ever thrown
away due to its durable characteristics. All the byproducts that
come from the manufacturing of granite is also utilized to make
aggregate products or engineered granite like countertops such as
Silestone, and Caesarstone. And
since the earth is mostly composed of granite there is little likelyhood
that we will run out in our lifetime and with the environmental
regulations in regards to mining we can be assured the uses of granite
are being monitored. Fred
|
| R11:
When you consider that most ignitious stones are formed way below
the surface, and they cool off and solidify at depths of 10 to 15
km below, and for periods of time from 3 billion to a few hundred
million years work their way to the surface through erosion of maybe
less than a mm per year, the supply is unending as this process is
continuous. The supply won't stop till the sun cools. We still have
a few billion years. Sven Rone |
R12:
There
is not one countertop material harvested from this earth or created
in a lab that does not impact the environment in some way.
After all, you need gasoline to freight the materials around.
Oil to pull them out of the earth.
OIl byproducts to manufacture artificial surfaces.
Then again, food requires gas and oil to get from hither to yonder.
But granite is fine. It depends on how clean the quarry and fabricator
run their business, basically. Steve |
| R13:
I have been selling granite for the counter tops including the solid
sink out of granite. They start with a bock of 12" X 26"
X 36" and cut out every thing for the sink leaving 2 cavities
for the 2 bowl sink and then I have a built in drain board all out
of the solid granite. This is a very good looking top. We do the same
with the bathroom lavatory top yes it cost more then the plastic but
it is more natural on looks and prestige of having something the other
people do not have. I can compete with Corian tops as to price with
a full 1 1/2" top as to a build up in the Corian there is even
a less costly system of a 3/4" top with a glued on front edge
making a 1 1/2" for the first 1 3/4" on the front. Bill
Lowry |
| R14:
If
you are really concerned about "long term impact" you should
take comfort in the knowledge that your countertops---and everything
else we humans see as important will be recycled as new crust some
millions of years from now. From a slightly more timely view you should
realize that the sources of granite, batholiths and plutons, are measured
in cubic kilometers, sometimes thousand of Km^3. Our puny human endeavors
matter little. Enjoy your granite counter tops as we have. They are
a piece of history, a renewable history! Bob Ritchie |
R15:
It
used to be that granite countertops did have a negative impact on
the environment. This was due the means of harvesting the granite
and cutting the granite. The tools used put a lot of waste in the
air. The technology has come along way. Now granite is “wet cut”
with the use of chemical agents that assist in the cutting and polishing.
These chemical agents to my knowledge largely have no impact. The
latest technology of using high speed streams of water has almost
no impact on the environment.
In terms of using up granite, the way we are using up oil, I seriously
doubt that if every home on earth had granite countertops that we
would be in danger of impacting the earth in any real manner. The
actual greatest environmental impact from granite is in the use of
sealers. The sealers used on granite are polymers that break down
in the sun and release into the air. The sealers are necessary to
protect the glossy look. I do not think these have any real measurable
impact, but I am not certain. Hope this helps. Jonathan Folland |
| R16:
Without
a doubt, this is the single most ludicrous statement I have ever read.
Has the writer ever considered what the alternative countertops are
made of. Would you like to discuss environmental issues regarding
them? One of the reasons I went to stone and granite was SPECIFICALLY
because it had the LEAST environmental impact of the materials available,
in spite of the energy requirements to fabricate and shape it. AND
it has NO BUILT-IN OBSELENCE. Put that in your environmental hat.
David |
| R17:
Give
me a break already, you must have something better to do with your
time I have a question for you, What can mankind do that does not
effect the earth? Steve Mead |
| R18:
I'm
not in the business, but do have a mining industry background and
I'm well aware of the issues surrounding mining in general and granite
in particular. Granite is plentiful (comprising a huge percentage
of the earth's crust) and is both a wonderful building material and
an environmentally friendly one. The typical granite quarry produces
little in the way of pollution and does not use any toxic chemicals
or produce any kind of toxic run off. They generally provide a good
living wage for their workers and much needed economic activity in
locations around the world. The down-side of granite quarrying is
the scars on the landscape, which often go un-reclaimed when operations
cease at any given site. In coutries like Canada and the U.S. reclamation
bonds are generally required to ensure that this doesn't happen -
other places are generallly more interested in jobs than the environment.
When compared to wood or synthethics, I'll take granite every time,
as the most durable, attractive and environmentally responsible choice.
All the best; George |
| R19:
My
oppinion is that using granit saves trees and money, because the granite
counter top last 30-plus years compare to 5 to 7 years of other materials.
Daniel |
| R20:
Take
a look at the pyramids if you want to see the long term affects when
using granite and other large volume quarried stone ... The environmental
impact is @ the site of excavation and the polishing room .... these
tasks create air and fluid affects which have environmental impact
.... negligible at that though ... Stone is pretty basic and the mass
of the earth is large enough to deal with our pittance of useage robert |
| R21:
Do
you feel irresponsible to mother earth when you fuel up your car with
fossil fuels, or have you considered how your great grandchildren
will propel their cars when the world's limited supply of fuel is
depleted? The entire earth's crust is comprised of stone, what other
options do you have for building materials, plastic? wood?resin based
composites? Jon Mitnick |
R22:
Life
is about choice, and choices are usually based on best-compromise
in descending order. So, if you do want a counter-top, what are your
choices : Korian ? Vinyl ? Stainless Steel ? Wood ? Marble ? Of course,
there is another choice, and that choice is not to make any compromise
at all, but then, that would mean squatting on the floor while cooking,
which is not really acceptable to most people.
The first 3 products are horrible (or at least, "dry, flat, no
fizz") from the aesthetic point of view (personal comment). And
some of them are even more expensive than stone.
But if you review technically, from the manufacturing point of view,
the manufacture of the first 3 products consumes much more resources
that impact the environment in a negative way - power-intensive processes,
chemicals which in turn are power-intensive and use more chemicals
in turn, processes that produce poisonous effluents (or effluents
whose treatment has spawned a whole new industry that produces products
that treat these effluents, which in turn, means another industry
producing the inputs that go into producing the products that are
used to treat these effluents), etc.
When you use a stone counter-top, you have used :
a) a natural resource that is available in abundance all over the
world
b)a material whose production consumes only electricity, steel blades
and steel shot/grit for sawing, steel for blade-cores and diamond/
superabrasive media for cutting it to size, grinding abrasives and
some wood for packing, or cardboard if you are using tiles (of course,
we can now review how steel shot is made, how abrasives are made,
and the analysis then becomes endless, because then we will have to
review how those products that are used in making steel shot, abrasives,
etc are made).
c)the production process produces no effluents whatsoever other than
stone powder in slurry form. In the case of granite, this is usually
a good material for a land-fill ; in the case of marble, the stone
powder is a pretty good cheap fertilizer because of the high CaCO3
content. Of course, there are other inputs used in manufacture and
distribution as well, such as diesel used in transportation, then
the products used to make the trucks and ships and railway trains
that do the transportation, rubber in the tyres, the brakes, and so
on but which would be common to the manufacture and distribution of
any product, so those are not being added to the analysis here.
The use of natural materials - such as stone, wood, etc - in my opinion
- is a far superior choice (from the technical point of view, in terms
of minimal impact of the resources consumed on the environment) because
they involve minimum "transformation" ; the moment you talk
about a "man-made" product, you can well imagine the technology
that has gone into the ability to "transform" product "x"
into product "y". The keyword here is "minimal transformation"
which is why products made of natural materials minimally impact the
environment relative to alternatives. And if this be true, then stone
is an even better choice than wood, because wood uses a lot of chemicals
in finishing, as well as preservation of that finish, whereas to finish
stone, no chemicals are used (its only ground = "polished"),
and the finish is usually life-long.
There is a moral (or an ego) issue here as well : prior to current
perception (where people are becoming conscious about preserving the
environment, and turning their backs on product which have abused
the abundance in Mother Nature), fortunes have been made by the people
who have developed (usually patented) processes that "transform"
products from "x" to "y", and whose manufacture
degrades the resources available in Mother Nature, as well as negatively
impact the environment. Do you want to be a supporting-party to their
continuing ability to buy more diamonds for their wives ? And don't
forget : their profits enthuse them (and equip them) to search for
more "transformation" processes for more and more new "patentable"
products.
And there is a practical issue as well : stone is one of the most
wearable materials. So, if you buy a stone counter-top now, you probably
won't be replacing it after 5-10 years (if you have used it well).
In light of the above opinion, would you use granite - or marble -
for a counter-top now ?
Incidentally, the use of counter-tops - as a percentage of total stone
used (in square meters) - is negligible. The use-space of stone is
mostly hogged by exterior facades flooring (almost equally), and interior
cladding.
I look forward to your reply, and I thank you very much for your attention.
Best regards. Deepak |
| R23:
I think granite is a very viable resourse as it will have a much greater
life span than plastics etc.granite can even concievably be reused
even after a fire.also,how many different products go into the fabrication
of modern products,and how much land was disturbed to retrieve those
resources.Ibelieve nature provides everything we need.technology can
be far worse.sincerley,jeff-Butterfield Stone |
Many
thanks to so many of you who took the time to reply to my inquiry
about the envronmental impact of cutting my countertops out of the
great rock. I appreciate the thoughthful replies, the good information.
I have very helpful answers
To the few of you who thought it was a ludicrous question, I can only
say that I'm betting I'm not the only potential consumer out here
who is not well educated on granite extraction and processing methodology
and how the energy use and enfironmental impact compares with manufacturing
of alternative materials -- or the only one who cares. Hat's off to
Vinay and such a useful web site. Ken Ford |
|
