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ADVICE WANTED!   Jan 31, 2004
www.findstone.com   info@findstone.com
   
Q 6208: We are having an Arkansas Sandstone floor installed in our family room on a cement slab. The irregular stone is no more than 1" thick. Half of the floor is now mud-set; it has not yet been grouted. I selected it for it's beauty and until now had not considered that it would possibly need to be sealed to provide some stain resistance. (Blinded by love). Part of the room is high foot traffic from outside and there is always the possibility of food or drink stains in this room from entertaining. I spent the afternoon researching sealants and, after reading this website, am more confused than ever as to whether or not to seal the floor. I don't want to add gloss, just worthwhile stain resistance. It is a big investment for us and we want to do the right thing. Am I better off throwing down a few area rugs and taking my chances; just poultice when necessary? Should I minimally seal the grout? The floor will be completed with the next two weeks so I'm getting a little nervous. What would you do??? Please advise. Thank you!! Catherine Swanson P.S. I would also be interested in some literature on cleaning and maintenance of a sandstone floor. Jan 31, Reply
R1: Dear Cathy: Yes, sandstone is indeed a very absorbent stone and does need to
be sesaled with a good quality impregnator, like my MB-4. It will require at least 4 applications, considering a coverage of 200 square feet coverage per US QT each application. No impregnator sealer will ever give your stone a 100% protection from stains, but it will get pretty close to it. The good news is that an impregnator/sealer like our MB-4 is a below-surface sealer and therefore it will not affect neither the surface finish of the stone, nor its original color. If instead you want a wet-look, color wise, then you should consider applying our penetrating color enhancer MB-6 at least a couple of times, before applying the MB-4. To determine if you'd like the wet look better, just wet the stone with water and see. As for routine cleaning, sandstone is quite an easy material, and all you need is to use our unrivaled MB-1 mixed with water to mop your floor with. Once, a year, some professional machine scrubbing may turn out to be necessary., Maurizio expert panelsit
Q 6207: On your chart (worlds most popular granites) - madura gold granite (gneiss) is .15% - .35 - is that high porosity, or medium, or low? Sorry - having a hard time figuring it out.
thank you I know you may not have time for these types of questions - just thought I would ask - need the expert advice.thanks again, Colleen, Jan 31, Reply
R1: Dear Colleen: Madura Gold is a very porous stone, but three applications of my impregnator/sealer MB-4 will take care of that for you for years to come! (It comes with a 10-year warranty.), Maurizio, Expert Panelist
Q 6206: Your site is EXCELLENT!, Please advise me on the best method to clean my shower. My Floors are tumbled marble, my walls are travertine. Although we squeegee every time we shower we still get orange mildew deposits. So far only elbow grease gets it out, any additional tips you can offer? Thanks! R1: It is not mildew, it's something different that's a clear indication of a problem that you MUST solve as soon as possible! I do know exactly what your situation is and how to rectify it. I think that you should demand the parties involved in your case (and who made money out of you!) to solve the problem they created. If not, you can opt to get in touch with me. Maurizio I have a similar problem in the shower of the apartment I rent -- orange stuff that seems to grow on the grout. I couldn't tell from your answer what the problem is. Can you please let me know what this stuff is and what I should do about it? Thanks, Tom, Jan 31, Reply
R1: Dear Tom Stambaugh: The reason why you could see my answer has probably to do with the fact that I never gave it! :-) You see I have zero tolerance for situations where there are contractors who don't know what they are doing but make money out of their incompetence, and then I am supposed to tell people what to do for free. You can say that I'm rude if you so wish, but to me it doesn't make any sense. It's like paying somebody to hurt you and then expect that your doctor is going to take care of you gratis! I never heard from him since. Maurizio, Expert Panelist
Q 6205: I am building a new home and chose ANTIQUE TUMBLED MARBLE in "Sylvester Beige" for the rather large, expansive foyer, for a cost of over $4000.00. I chose the rest of the home's flooring around this choice. I have come to find that they have installed some kind of "travertine". They did not call me to check with me before installing. I was absolutely thrilled with the antique tumbled marble! I have no idea what "travertine"is. I don't think it is of "equal or greater value" which is what it should be if they make substitutions.they agreed to install the marble and instead installed the travertine. What would you do? I am closing on this house on February 20. Please respond if you have any thoughts...Kristine, Jan 31, Reply
R1: Dear Kristine: Whether or not travertine is of the same or higher value of marble is only a question of demand and supply. Certain marbles cost more than travertine, but that doesn't make then any better from an inherent stone quality point of view. Actually, many of the most expensive marble leave a lot to be desired quality wise.
In my opinion travertine is one the best calcite-based stone available (all marble are calcite-based, excpet from green marble and a few others) and it's quire rugged, dense and downright enjoyable. I wouldn't complain if I were you! Just concentrate on learning how to take good care of it! Maurizio , Expert Panelist
Q 6204: my living room is 690 square feet and i am laying 18x18 inch square ceramic tile. How many tiles will i need to purchase? thanks sue, Jan 30, Reply
R1: 18" x 18" = 1.5 ft x 1.5 ft = 2.25 sq.ft.so divide 690 by 2.25 to get the number of tiles. then round off to the higher purchasable number to have a few extra to take care of breakages
Q 6203: I have a historical restoration project and I am looking for some help concerning Texas shellstone. I know that it is a precursor to limestone and is on the soft end of the scale as far as hardness. Am looking for assistance in finding suppliers(quarries), carvers and someone who can help me with the ins and outs of this particular material. I have worked with various limestone's on other projects, but not quit as brittle or as soft. I need to know the grading system if there is any, and any particular problems to watch out for in the refurbishing process that might be peculiar to this material.Thanks, Luke, Jan 30, Reply
R1: Hi Luke, My carving shop is only 5 miles from the Texas shellstone quarries. I can probably help you out. I think you can contact me directly through the contact links on this site. Looking forward to hearing from you. JVC, Expert Panelist
Q 6202: I have skimmed down the many questions about flooring and your answers but I haven't been able to find a solution for me. Our house is thirty-five years old. The foyer floor consists of irregular pieces of slate in black, burgundy, gray. I have recently noticed that there is a a noticeable amount of white markings that I cannot remove with simple washing. What is it and how can I remove it? Looks really bad. Thank you, Joan, Jan 30, Reply
R1: Dear Joan: Do the "white marking" temporarily disappear when wet? If that's the case, then you could apply my MB-6 stone color enhancer, which will give a permanent wet effect. If instead the white marking are still visible when they are wet, then the only remedy is to rip out the whole stupid thing and install a floor different from slate.
Oops, I almost forgot: remember to send a heartfelt thank you note to the "knowledgeable" retailer who sold you slate as flooring material. Maurizio, Expert Panelist
R2: Perhaps the white markings are from efflorescence. Salts migrating up from the under lying bed turning to calcium carbonate. Try a product called Stain-Proof. It will stop efflorescence and also protect the stone from water and oil based stains and make keeping the stone clean easier, Bob
Q 6201: I have travertine in by shower and it gets milder and soap scum, what is the best way to remove this? I have tried several cleaners but they seem to dull the surface. Thank you for your help. Misty, Jan 30, Reply
R1: Dear Misty: I have two specific products, namely MB-3 and MB-9 that will take care of your travertine shower stall cleaning poroblems withour affecting the finish of the stone.However, if you already dulled the finish while using other products, my products will not brign the shine back to your stone. Maurizio, Expert Panelist
Q 6200: I was reading your advice on the net, and would appreciate recieving the info you offered on residential stone maintenance/installation. We are building a new house and are considering granit tiles in the kitchen, tumbled marble or travertine in the bathroom for the floor, countertops and around the Jacuzzi tub. But after reading the horror stories, I'm thinking ceramic tile may be best. I don't like to clean much:) Also, how close together do you recommend laying the tiles? I prefer them to be tight. Thanks, RW, Jan 30, Reply
R1: Dear Regina Walker: Maintaining natural stone is not any more difficult than maintaining any other material: it's just the question of having some basic education on the subject. The "butt-joint" installation of tiles on floor and inside the sower stall is a big NO-NO! 1/16" grout gap is "your msn"! Maurizio, Expert Panelist
Q 6199: I just found your web page and I'm so thankful. We have a great oppurtunity to buy a close out of Limestone for our entry foyer, dining room and kitchen. It's St. Herbert and it's pretty thick. Will this be ok on my kitchen floor. Thanks so much for your imput, Karolyn, Jan 30, Reply
R1: Dear Karolyn: Most limestone installations turn out to be successful, but I've also seen enough problems (all whcih with no solution) realted to limestone installations that forbid me to encourage anyone to have limestone installed in their dwellings. If you want to take your chances - which like I said are pretty good - all you will have to do is the have it sealed professionally with a good-quality stone impregnator/sealer like my MB-4 and keep it cleaned with my MB-1. Maurizio, Expert PAnelist
Q 6198: Could you tell me if Lavastone is an igneous/metamorphic rock and whether it is classified as siliceous stone or calcareous stone. Thanks for your help, Jo, Jan 29, Reply
R1: Dear jo, Lava rock is igneous and mostly siliceous. Maurizio, Expert Panelist
R2: Dear JO Lava is what magma is called when it reaches the surface of the earth and then cools. Lava rock would therefore be an igneous rock, and since it cooled rapidly it is usually very fine grained, and often riddeled with gas bubbles making it very light weight. Most of the time, the chemical composition of magmas is such that the rocks formed are not calcareous
Q 6197: I have been reading your comments and answers to various questions and inquiries on findstone.com and I have to say I am quite impressed by your knowledge and direct no-nonsense approach. I would like to get specific advice from you and would be very happy to pay for any of your products or literature that you deem may help me. I have recently purchased about 600 sf of Turkish unfilled tumbled travertine (the local distributers around the Los Angeles area call it "Warm Wallnut". The tiles come in 4 sizes - 8"X8", 8"X16", 16"X16" and 16"X24", to create the "Versailles" or French pattern. I will be installing them in our hallway, kitchen, family room and guest bathroom. From what I read, you are usually against sealing natural stone. These stones have a mate finish and I would like to keep them that way except that I would like to bring out or enhance their natural color and attern. I plan on filling most large holes and most holes in the kitchen/bathroom area with grout for ease of cleaning (of course with the grout lines needing to be filled, I may endup with completely filled tiles). Would you suggest that I use a sealant and or color enhancer? What literature would you recommend for the upkeep and proper maintenance of these travertine tiles? Thanks in advance for your time and consideration. Miachel, Jan 29, Reply
R1: Dear Michael: Your choice is going to be very enjoyable. Yes, make sure to fill all the holes in the tiles using unsanded grout. Well, I don't advise people to seal when not necessary, but tumbled travertine could use a good impregnator/sealer (like my MB-4) especially in the kitchen. To determine if a color enhancer will work in a way to make a difference, wet your tile and see if what you see is better that when they are dry. If the answer is yes, then you will be applying a good-quality color enhancer - before the sealer - like our MB-6. The MB-4 will be applied after two or three days of curing of the MB-6. Maurizio, Expert Panelist
R2: There are many sealers that enhance with or without shine also will give full maintenance regime. Remember not to use acidic or bleach type cleaners. George
Q 6196: Thanks for a great site. Please advise if soapstone (steatite) is classified as a clacareous stone. Thanks for your help, JD, Jan 29, Reply
R1: Dear JD No it isn't. If anything, it would be classified more as a silicate. JVC
Q 6195: We are about to install Travertine stone in our kitchen . My husband has been in the business of 10 years or so installing floor's (ceramic tile, wood, carpet, and other flooring) but we have not mess to much with the stone. We got some for free and we where wondering what is the difference between installing tile and stone? And what do you use to seal theTravertine with? Taiwan, Jan 28, Reply
R1: Dear Tiawania: It takes much more patience and white thinset. Also, the deflection rating of the subfloor has to meet higher standards (L 720). The recommended grout gap is 1/16" and sandless grout is in order. Hone-finished travertine can be succesfully sealed with a good-quality stone impregnator, such as our MB-4, while polished travertine does not need to be sealed. But then again, you do NOT want polished travertine in a kitchen! Maurizio, Expert Panelist
Q 6192: Hi,I'm considering installing white thassos in my son's(3yrs old) bathroom but am concerned about the maintenance required to keep the marble up to look with a young child's use.Your advice will be appreciated, Roman, Jan 28, Reply
R1: White Thassos, being a Dolomitic marble, is a tougher cookie than regular calcite-based marble. It does require some special maintenance, but nothing really to worry about. Maurizio, Expert Panelist
R2: Need to consider a sealer on the floor that will protect it from urine (which will strip the polish) also to protect from staining from coloured soaps etc.Look at the Lithofin range I have been using their products for years, George
Q 6191: We are considering giallo antico for our kitchen counters and were wondering if it would be an appropriate kitchen material. I did the lemon juice test and didn't see any problems. Will it need to be sealed? Also, we are seeing both 3cm and 2cm (with laminated edge) granite and wondered if there are any concerns about 2cm.Thanks, Gina, Jan 28, Reply
R1: Regarding 2cm material: It has become customary to use 3cm material in the East and Midwest, while the Western states lag behind in the technology. 2cm is lighter for the installers to carry, so they complain about it. They will also charge you more for 3cm since it is “special order.” 3cm doesn’t require a plywood underlayment and the edges are not laminated, so it looks better and is actually easier to install and fabricate! It is expensive to turn a shop over to 3cm and so many have been reluctant, but eventually the whole USA will be using 3cm granite for countertops. Here in St. Louis, 2cm is “special order” and costs more. --Sal
Q 6184: I'm interested in finding the geological origin of Bahama Blue granite (gneiss?) from India. Thank you for your help. Bill Miller, Jan 28, Reply
R1: Dear Bill, A good petrographic analysis by an experienced stone scientist will go a long way in telling you about its geological origin.(Dr. Hans)
 
Q 6179: I have recently purchased a 1903, Ansonia black marble clock. The finish is very dull. I believe it to have been scrubbed with a soapy brush. I there something I can do to return the shine? Bill, Jan 27, Reply
R1: Dear Bill: There’s only one thing that you can do: hire a professional stone refinisher. Maurizio, Expert Panelist
Q 6177: I have just had crema marble tiles, polished, installed in my bathroom including shower. I want to install a holder for shampoos, etc. on the walls - but it needs to be secured with silicon to ensure it doesn't fall off. Will this hurt the marble tiles or cause me problems if I decide I want to remove the dispenser in the future? The tiles and grout were sealed after installation. Thanks, Jan 27, Reply
R1: Dear Deidre: That's okay: the silicon will not hurt the marble. Now the question is: what kind of "intelligence" do you have about properly maintaining your shower stall? Maurizio, Expert Panelist
Q 6176: Should a power washer be used on flagstone since it is a layered stone? Sandy, Jan 27, Reply
R1: Dear Sandy: It could, but one has to be careful to set the pressure at no more than 900 PSI and keep the nozzle at a distance of at least 2 to 3 feet.. A solution of water and MB-9 (3:1) makes a terrific cleaner and perfectly safe! Rinse it with plain water after letting the solution sit for a period of time between 15 and 30 minutes. MB-9, along with all my other specialty products, is available All our products come with a 100% money back guarantee if not completely satisfied! Maurizio, Expert Panelist
Q 6175: We have 4x4 cream colored tumbled travertine tile backsplash behind our stove and counter. What type of enhancer should be use, water or solvent based? , then can we follow it up with a teflon sealer? for better protection . Thanks, Fred, Jan 27, Reply
R1: Dear Fred: MB-6 Stone Color Enhancer is "your man". A color enhancer must be as penetrating as possible; therefore water-carried products don't work as weel as solvent-carried ones. Do not expect a dramatic increase of the depth of color of travertine, though. To find out what a color enhancer will do to your stone, just wet it: what you'll see is what you'll get! Yes, you could use an impregnator/sealer afterwards for additional protection. My MB-4 is a fluorocarbon alphatic - based product: teflon. Maurizio, Expert Panelist
Q 6173: I recently had 700 sf of canterra stone installed in my kitchen and baths (on the floor). The stone has not been sealed yet and I would like to darken the color before it is sealed. What is the best way to darken the color of Canterra stone and what products work best for sealing it? Also, I am considering putting slate in my showers. Does slate require a lot of maintenance in showers (walls & floors)? Lora, Jan 27, Reply
R1: Dear Lora: To color enhance your Cantera stone, my MB-6 (two to three application at an interval of at least 24 hours each), followed (after at least four days of curing) by my MB-4 are “your men”! As for the slate issue in your shower, you do NOT want it, period!!! If you like the looks of it, there are look-alike porcelain tiles that are difficult to tell apart from the real thing and are bullet-proof, maintenance wise! Maurizio, expert panelist
Q 6171: Would your MB-6 remove the etch mark? If not, how can I repair it? Thank you, Lois D’Alonzo, Jan 27, Reply
R1: Dear Lois D’Alonzo: Repair it you can’t. Nobody can. MB-6 will not actually remove the etch mark. If the etch mark “disappears” (temporarily) when you wet it, MB-6 will make that disappearance permanent. Maurizio, Expert Panelist
Q 6170: Hello. We recently installed a travertine (Durango) floor in our kitchen. There are several scratches, what appear to be superficial (cannot feel the scratch),on about a dozen stones. Can I repair this myself and what exactly do I need and how do I do it? I tried using the black sandpaper, 220 grit, with water and rubbed in a circular motion on one of the tiles but the result was the scratch was removed but left that section of the tile cloudy. What did I do wrong? I'd rather not spend the money but am I better off hiring a professional? Thanks, Kate, Jan 27, Reply
R1: Dear Kate: You didn’t do anything wrong. You just used a sanding grit too low and the finish you’ve got is below factory specs. If you repeat the same procedure using finer grits in a sequel up to 400 you should be getting a better results, although, if you want a real uniform finish all throughout the floor you would have no alternative but hiring a pro. I would first try myself and then decide if what I see is something I can live with! Keep in mind that if it’s close enough, the regular foot traffic might take care of blending it in with the rest in a matter of a few months, Maurizio, Expert Panelist
Q 6170: Is there anything that I can do to minimize or get rid of for oil spills on my floors? Someone dropped something oily on my floors and it's left a rather unsightly stain? I washed it with hot water and a steel pad and then after it dried - I threw some baby powder on it. it helped slightly but not enough. I worry about splatters from the stove top, as well.Also - someone mentioned a sealer called Porous Plus. Are you familiar with this? thank you. Joyce, Jan 27, Reply
R1: Dear Joyce: Yes, I'm quite familiar with the impregnator/sealer you mentioned and
it's quite good, although I believe that in light of the new technologies that have emerged in the past few years, it should be considered obsolete. (It stinks, it's hard to apply and it requires an application every year.) I consider my MB-4 a superior product and less expensive, too. Not to mention that it comes with a 10-year warranty! As for your oily stain, when it comes to stain removal, either you buy one of those expensive "Professional kits" (that no true professional ever
uses!) at a stone retailer near you, or you can spend less money and get my comprehensive guidelines on how to remove stains by using inexpensive and far more effective means that you may already have in your household! Such impressive piece of literature will also tell you how to
tell stains apart from "stains", and what to do about the latter! Maurizio, expert panelist
Q 6169: Honed marble/serpentine kitchen countertops: My husband and I love the warm, worn look and feel of marble and are considering using it on our kitchen countertops.
I have three questions. First, how does one know which stones are serpentine? Is it only Hualien Jade (from Taiwan) and Verde Antique (from Vermont)? I like a lighter, sea-green look--are lighter green stones considered marbles, or are all greens serpentine? Second, I am trying to sort out the pros and cons of marble v. serpentine. My understanding so far is that serpentine is harder to scratch and does not etch easily from acids. On the con side, serpentine is more absorbent, which is a problem with oils. Am I grasping this? Third, are we crazy to consider marble counters in a kitchen which will be the center of our family life (with large extended family visiting often)? We would love to have the patina and character of my mother-in-law's white marble kitchen counters. But I'm worried about water--will water get under and into marble around an undermount sink, or from the seal between the backsplash and the counter, and rust the marble?Should I be concerned about greasy stains--we cook with lots of olive oil, and use almond butter, salad dressing . . . We are not messy, but accidents happen (especially around children). Would this make the counter look dirty, or just used?We are finding your site enormously helpful as we plan our new house.Many thanks, and if my questions are too detailed for the Q&A boards, please let me know if there is another way to get help. Jessica, Jan 24, Reply
R1: Dear Jessica: It looks like you did some serious home-work and have everything figured out! You're right on the money in most of your statements. Most green marbles are serpentine. Serpentine is Magnesium Silicate. To the best on my knowledge, only one is an ophicalcite, namely the Italian Verde Alpi, which, while very attractive, is a sublime piece of crap for the intents and purposes of a kitchen countertop!
There is a light colored serpentine from Taiwan, but it's not easy to find it in slabs. So, all I can tell you, is to shop around for a light green until you find what you like, and then perform my little lemon juice test on it.You're right, serpentine is usually more absorbent than calcite-based marble, but it's still a degree of absorbency that can be very well controlled with a good-quality impregnator/sealer highly oleophobic, such as our MB-4. If you find the "right" green marble, go for it! The possible rusting issue is only related to white marbles. Maurizio, Expert Panelist
Q 6168: I have found a marble "antiquated Cedar Stone" that I really like for my kitchen countertop. I know it is more porous than granite. I will be putting something called "Bulletproof" stone sealer on it. Question---What is your opinion as to whether I should use it?? How do I find your response.I will ck.back at this website also Sincerely, iris, Jan 24, Reply
R1: Dear Iris: Two things: A) the average marble is less absorbent than the average granite. B) You can apply "bullet-proof" or any other impregnator/sealer on the market inside your marble until you drop, and you still won't be able to solve the first of the problems you will have by using marble in a kitchen. FYI, what follows is the cut and past answer that I recently gave to another inquirer who had marble installed in a kitchen and had not been warned:
Dear Inquirer: I have some bad news and some good news. Starting from the bad news, how do you want it: sugar coated or right in between your eyes? Okay, I'll choose.Inasmuch as I would love to be able to tell you that there is a solid
solution to your problem in the form of some product that I would be selling to you, the fact in the matter is that polished marble does no belong in a kitchen. End of story, no debate, done.Marble is a stone mainly made of Calcium Carbonate (CaCo3), which is Mother Nature neutralizer. Everything acidic becoming in contact with a marble surface will make a permanent mark of corrosion on it in a matter of few seconds. It is basically an etch mark. The list of acidic products typically found in a kitchen is virtually endless: tomato sauce, soda, lemonade, all citrus juices, vinegar, salad dressing, any drink, a generic cleaning product, and on and on ... Basically, the calcium carbonate in the stone gives itself up in its effort of neutralizing the acid. The lower is the pH of the acidic liquid, the longer it will take to get neutralized, and the more calcium carbonate will get destroyed in the process. Translation: the etch mark will be more severe. Can these "weird stains" (which are not stains at all, but rather surface damages: kind of a shallow chemical scratch) be removed (better said: repaired)? Yes, they can. If you're facing only a few of them, and only if they are in the light to medium severity range, you could do it yourself by using a product like our MB-11. It they are beyond that both in quantity and/or severity, then you will need the services of a bona fide stone restoration company. (Yellow pages, under: "Marble and Terrazzo Cleaning.") Your next question is: how can I prevent them and maintain a nice shiny surface? You can't. It's since the 19th century that chemists from all over the world have been trying to find a solution to this shortcoming typical of any calcite-based stone, at no avail. Although I always think positive and I don't believe in the "it can't be done" attitude, I am afraid that in this case I'll have to make an exception.
Impregnator/sealers for stone (which are BELOW-SURFACE products) only clog the pores of the stone to reduce its natural absorbency rate (which in the case of marble is quite limited to begin with), thus preventing staining agents from being absorbed by it. No surface protection whatsoever can be expected by an impregnator/sealer. Topical sealers arenot only not recommended, but totally useless as well. And that is the very reason why polished marble does not belong in a
kitchen, or any other environment subject to pH active spills. What to do then? You have a few options, which I will list in order of increasing efficiency for you:
1) Have it professionally re-finished, keep it highly polished, and then use your countertop exclusively as a telephone holder, which you will be using to make reservations or to order take-outs! (Which you will be eating far from the countertop!) :-)
2) Have it professionally re-finished, keep it highly polished, and then become kind of obsessed at following strict maintenance guidelines, which will imply the use of a polishing powder like our MB-11, a daily cleaning product like our MB-5, and a topical dressing like our MB-13 (see them all together in our "marble repair kit" available or have the same restoration company come out once a year or so, to fix it again, and again, and again .
3) You have a professional stone restoration company come out and produce a low-hone finish (virtually flat. The lower the better) on your countertop, and then apply an impregnator/sealer in it (such as our MB-4) for stain prevention, since the honing process will open the pores of the stone. Etching will still occur, of course, but it will not be noticeable. (The duller the finish the least noticeable an etch marks will be.)
4) You get rid of your marble countertop, not before sending a heartfelt thank-you note to the "genius" who fabricated and installed it in your home without warning you of the problems with no solution that you were going to have. After that you will go somewhere else to have a countertop made out of granite instead. For your information, the above was the sugar-coated version! :-) I also mentioned to you that I had some good news for you, remember? Here it is: it's only money! :-) Now, Iris, you draw your own conclusions! Maurizio, Expert Panelist
Q 6167: I am a contractor aprox. 1 year ago we installed a terracotta floor in a kitchen, It was installed over mud, coated with linseed oil stained and sealed ( this was done by a company that specializes in this). As time has been going by there are a numerous areas where a little bit of the tile pops off the surface and a white spot (lime or calcium) shows through. I have seen this before but this floor seems to have more than normal. I have been told by the supplier + the sealing company that it is normal and some floors have more than others and to wait a little more than a for it to go through all the seasons. Then they touch up the tiles with the spots with stain and sealer. I think this sounds fine but the owner doesn't think it is sounds right and thinks they are getting a story. I would appreciate any information or input from anyone who has experienced this. Tony, Jan 24, Reply
R1: SORRY CAN'T HELP NEED TO SEE THE FLOOR OTHER THEN THAT U'R GOING TO HAVE TO TRUST WHAT THE CONTRACTOR HAS TOLD YOU OK TNX AND GOOD LUCK ED HADDAD
R2: What you are experiencing is normal for this type of tile but if they tell you it will be over in one year they are not being honest. We are in the southwest where this tile is very common and the popping is due to the crude way the tiles are formulated. You may also see tile cracking and splitting over time. This too is not uncommon. There is nothing you can do to stop it but keep resealing the pops as they happen. Sorry to be telling you bad news but it is factual. We have over 25 years in the industry and hopefully have seen most of the good and bad in tile, George
R3: Perfectly normal in cruder terracottas where the clay is not so highly refined, it is called lime popping and is due to small grains of limestone present in the clay these explode in the kiln causing small fractures in the finished tile, some are immediately transparent, others become so over a period of time as the surface comes away. regards David
R4: Hello, What you seem to have is uncarbonated lime in the terracotta. I imagine the tile has been made using a lime-based mortar which has been made up with freshly slaked lime. Sometimes small granules of unslaked lime (Calcium Oxide) remain in the mix. These then react over time with water and in doing so expand and make a small spot on the surface. Eventually all the unslaked lime will convert and the 'popping' will stop. It is a sign of poorly mixed mortars and/or a primitive manufacturing process. The resulting white spot is Calcium Hydroxide which over time will carbonate to form Calcium Carbonate (essentially limestone). Both products are harmless and inert.The client's problem is not significant in structural terms, only in aesthetic terms, and if the supplier is happy to continue sealing the spots I imagine it shouldn't be too much of a problem with the client.
Best wishes Mike
R5: Hi Let me tell you first that there are many things which could cause the peeling and white spots over the floor.Before going for any big decision try to find out the following thing
1-Water hardness in your area
2-Dampness which could be there in flooring Water hardness usually causes the white spots over the floor.This water may not get penitrated from top due to sealer but yes there is a possibility from bottom if you do not use the correct bedding for flooring.Dampness is the only reason for peeling of the floor. So try to find out the sourse of the dampness and attack it.
And yes on the present white spots you can go for touch up solution which will not cost a lot, regards, nilesh
R6: You have what we in the South call "calcuim leaching", the content of calcium in the stone and ,moisture in the stone cause this. We in atlanta are having a terrible time with this occuring in bricks on houses.You can clean off the calcium with acid but must neutralize it very quick. Call Prosoco and speak to them about products to use. Don
Q 6165: I would be very grateful if you provide me with some information about Italian Marble and especially the "CREMA MARFIL - B - ". I would like to know the Physical, Mechanical and Technological Specifications if this kind of marble exists in Italy.
Most of Dealers in my country QATAR, confirmed to me that the above mentioned "CREMA MARFIL - B - " does not exist at all, but there is "CREMA MARFIL Marble from Spain. I would like to have a confirmation and a clarification from your side as soon as possible to be able for me to take a very important decision. Your help in this matter and your prompt reply will be very much appreciated. Thank you for your co-operation and best regards. Meshal, Jan 24, Reply
R1: Dear Meshal: There's no such a thing as an Italian Crema Marfil. Crema Marfil is a compact limestone from Spain. The classification of B is a voluntary grading offered by some of the quarries. IN Italy there's a beige marble (still a compact limestone) called Botticino, which comes in Calssico, Semi-classico and Fiorito. Maurizio, Expert Panelist
Q 6164: I recently inherited a patio set that has a marble table top that is faded and needs to be brought back to life. How do I do that? Laura, Jan 24, Reply
R1: Dear Laura: You only have one option: hire a professional stone refinisher. Maurizio, Expert Panelist
Q 6163: I used granite polishing wax and I rubbed too hard. It left A dark Circular Ring In My dajota mahogany granite. It has been six weeks. I thought it might fade, but nothing has lightened up yet. Will it Fade over a longer period of time or do I need to Get some kind of stain remover and what would that be. I'M a little hesitant about the stain remover because I've read so many e-mails that say their stains got darker. What do you suggest to do. Thanks, Cheryl, Jan 24, Reply
R1: Dear Cheryl: Housewife, huh ... I thought the species was extinct! :-)
I'd love to help you, but I need more information:
1. For starters, why did you feel the need to use "granite polishing wax" on your granite? How old is your countertop?
2. What kind of product did you use?
3. Could you give me at least the summary of the advertised performance, what they say the product is, and the directions printed on the bottle?
4. How did you apply it?
5. Can you elaborate the description of your "circular ring"? Does it look shiner than the rest, or what?
6. Did you contact the manufacturer of this polishing wax? If so, what did they tell you?
7. Did you contact your fabricator? If so, what did they tell you?
Answer the questions above for me and them we'll take it from there. Fair enough?
Maurizio, Expert Panelist
Q 6162: My sister has a fossil stone table that red wine was spilled onto. Is there any way she can get thpolishing wax is out. It is obviously a very porous stone.Thanks for any help. Lynn, Jan 24, Reply
R1: Dear Lynn: Fossil stone is not really very absorbent. What happened is that the acidity of the wine corroded (etched) the surface of the stone. It is not a stain: rather a surface damage. I have a product, namely MB-11 that will easily take care of that by re-polishing the surface of your sister's table top to its original condition. MB-11 comes either by itself or in a convenient "Marble Repair Kit", Maurizio, Expert Panelist
Q 6161: My Granite countertop looks like they over buffed it how can I remove the marks of the buffer. Can you please let me know as soon as you can. Debbie, Jan 24, Reply
R1: Dear Debbie: And who was it that supposedly "over-buffed" your granite countertop?
Did you inquire with your fabricator? What did they do, apply some sort of wax on it? And if so, why? The top of a granite slab is polished by the factory, not by the fabricator. I can't figure out what to do unless you answer my questions. Maurizio , Expert Panelist
Q 6159: I work for a granite fabrication facility in Tucson, AZ and need a second opinion on a customer complaint. The customer in question has had her granite installed for 4 years ( Giallo Veneziano) and complains that the day after cleaning the counter, she feels grit on the counter tops. She insists that the granite is deteriorating daily. This is the 3rd complaint in 10 years that we have experienced of this nature. Not wanting to offend any of these customers, we are searching for a second expert opinion as to what is happening. Any additional explanations that you may have would be greatly appreciated.Thank you, Kraig, Jan 24, Reply
R1: Dear Kraig: Now, why on earth should I help anybody who's selling products from the competition?! :-) Most all Giallo "granites" may present the inconvenience reported by your customer. Every now and again a low-grade slab finds its way in some fabrication shop and if the fabricator is not knowledgeable enough to recognize it . there you have unhappy Mrs. Customer! Any solution? There's none, alas. Some may tell you to apply a paraffin-based wax on it (to hold together the loose grits), but it's only a short-lived band-aid kinda thing. If this is only the third complain in 10 years, if I were you I would bite the bullet and replace the whole thing. The bust to your professional reputation would be well worth it. And . if you want to bust your professional image even more, you will switch from the current product line you're carrying to mine! :-) Maurizio, Expert Panelist
 
Q 6157: I have been considering black granite for my kitchen worktops, but I'm not sure whether to go ahead. For one things, it's very expensive, for another, I'm not sure if I like the shiny "mirror" effect, and I can't visualise it with my oak wooden units, despite the fact that the manufacturer says black granite goes with everything.What's your opinion? Barbara, Jan 24, Reply
R1: Dear Barbara: My wife and I - both born, raised and got married in Italy - cook like
maniacs every day of the week and twice on Sunday. And I do men:
C-O-O-C-K! We have a black granite countertop (Black Galaxy) for almost 8 years and it's still like brand-new! (I never sealed, of course!) We wouldn't exchange it with anything else! Is it too expensive for you? I can't help you with that. You don't like too much the mirror-like look? I can't help you with that, either. Will it go with you oak wooden cabinets? Please, leave me out from interior decorating! :-)
Maurizio, Expert Panelist
Q 6156: I am very impressed by your detailed technical description of various natural stones at findstone.com. I hope you can help me too. I am trying to use a "honed and filled durango premium cross cut travertine" for the first floor of a new house that we are building (except the family room). This will include the floor of the kitchen, dining room, front entry way, bathroom, laundry room. From the many threads, should I assume that this is a good stone choice for the intended application? If so, should I ask for "low honed, double filled" or what exactly specifications should I provide the stone supplier? What should one do for everyday cleaning?
Also, I am planning to use "black galaxy granite" for the kitchen countertop or some other granite with brown and black hues that will contrast with the light beige durango premium floor. Please recommend good granite choices for this application.Thanks, Mahesh, Jan 24, Reply
R1: Dear Mahesh: "Low hone", yes, big time! "Double filled"? Never heard of it Travertine is either filled or unfilled. Once it's filled, you can't fill it again! :-)
At any rate, yes, it is a good stone.Well, as I had the opportunity to report in more than one occasion, I do have a "Black Galaxy" kitchen countertop myself for almost 8 years! It's still brand-new, despite the heavy-duty use and abuse my wife and I submit it to. Of course, I never sealed! At any rate, I seldom make final statements about any one particular stone. There may be differences within the same stone (and I'm not talking about looks, here!) from one bundle of slabs and the next. The slabs may have also been either "doctored" (which is bad), or "resined" (which is good) by the factory, which would make a big difference. Even more important, what's a good stone in the hands of some "Michelangelo"?! Maurizio , Expert Panelist
Q 6155: We are building a new home in NC and are considering a wonderful and
unusual marble piece for an island counter top. The piece had an acid wash antique finish- that was not shiny. Applying red wine vinegar to a test piece caused white stains. 1. Will they go away 2. How is the acid wash-compared to a vinegar test different, as the acid wash doesn¹t have a haze or stained look to it. Is there a sealer, or protective finish that will enable us to use this piece in a kitchen environment, Marie, Jan 24, Reply
R1: Dear Marie Welna: It's kind of weird that in all these years nobody ever raised this interesting issue! When a marble surface is honed will still get etched by pH active liquids, but you will not notice it much, unless ... the low-honed was produced by acid washing! Why's that? When you hone mechanically a marble surface you will lose depth of color. If you acid-wash the same marble with, say, phosphoric acid, you will lose depth of color as well. But if you acid-wash the marble surface with Hydrochloric acid (Muriatic acid) - which is the type of acid mostly used to acid wash marble surfaces - you will not lose depth of color! For instance: if you hone black marble mechanically or by using any acid different than muriatic, the color of the stone will turn
gray. The lower the degree of honing, the lighter the gray will be. But if you acid-wash that same black marble with muriatic acid it will turn dull but still retain the black color! That is nice indeed, but ... the other side of the coin is that if you spill say, acetic acid (vinegar and most drinks) or citric acid (lemon, orange, lime, etc.) on it the area under the spill will lose depth of color!
What to do? Apply a good-quality stone color enhancer like my unrivaled MB-6, and then use specialty cleaning products for routine maintenance that will not affect its performance and alter the depth of color of your marble, such as my outlandish MB-5! Maurizio, Expert Panelist .
Q 6154: I saw a slab of stone which I was told was called Galactica Blue. It is similar to Labrador Antique except that the background is black rather then brown. It has flecks of gold and blue throughout. There is no gray in it. Any idea on what the real name of it is? One person thought Volga Blue but it is not the same. Thanks so much, Steve, Jan 24, Reply
R1: Dear Steve: I’ve seen it myself (BTW, terrific stone!) but I don’t know if it goes under any other name. And I don’t know exactly what kind of stone it is, either; but if I have to venture a guess I would say an anorthosite. At any rate, I seldom make final statements about any one particular stone. There may be differences within the same stone (and I’m not talking about looks, here!) from one bundle of slabs and the next. The slabs may have also been either “doctored” (which is bad), or “resined” (which is good) by the factory, which would make a big difference. Even more important, what’s a good stone in the hands of some “Michelangelo”?! my Maurizio Expert Panelist
Q 6153: I have a raised natural stone fireplace which has a slate sitting area. What is the best way to clean the slate? Jan 22, Reply
R1:A periodic application of our MB-6 Stone Color Enhancer on a "when-needed" basis and our MB-5 spray cleaner for routine maintenance. Maurizio . Expert Panelist
Q 6152: I need to remove a permanent marker stain from my stone mantle that is on the floor. I tried a stone remover from Home Depot that I covered with plastic and taped down for 24 hours. The stain came up a little but it is still there, Fran, Jan 22, Reply
R1: Dear Fran: When it comes to stain removal, either you buy one of those expensive “Professional kits” (that no true professional ever uses!) at a stone retailer near you (which you already did), or you can spend less money and get my comprehensive guidelines on how to remove stains by using inexpensive and far more effective means that you may already have in your household! Maurizio, Expert Panelist
Q 6149: A section of our granite kitchen counter top has developed a crack can this be repaired? I would welcome any information you can provide on this subject. Thank you, for your reply. Jacques, Jan 22, Reply
R1: Dear Jack LaBrosse: Only seldom. It all depends on the crack. Without actually seeing I can't tell. It also much depends on the skills of the fabricator at performing the repair. Finally, what's most important of all: Why did it crack? If the reason for the cracking is not addressed and eliminated before any reapir is attempted, it will crack again! When everything is solved, don't you forget to pamper your beautiful stone with my excellent maintenance products! Maurizio, Expert Panelist
Q 6148: I considering buying marble tiles for my home. Do you recommend removing the existing ceramic tiles before installing the marbles tiles or is it possible and advisable to install the marble tiles on top of the ceramic tiles? Ivan, Jan 22, Reply
R1: Dear Ivan: It is possible to install marble tiles on top of ceramic ones. Advisable? Not in my book. An remember, it's never too early to think about the maintenance of your marble floors! Maurizio, Expert Panelist
Q 6147: I purchased some beautiful blue pearl granite for my bathroom floor. I want to lay it using my versabond thinset, but butting the tiles right up against each other. Can I do that, or do I absolutely have to have a grout line? Second question is that I saw you said blue pearl definitely doesn't need a sealer because it is so dense. The ones I have are already polished... should I still do the lemon juice test or just run with it? Thank you, Josh, Jan 22, Reply
R1: Dear Josh: Well, of course they are already polished! But that has nothing to
do with any sealer, does it?! Don't waste time running the lemon jiuce test on Blue Pearl: it will not be affected in any possible way. No, do NOT butt-joint!! 1/32" to 1/16" grout gap is "your man". And, MOST IMPORTANT OF ALL ... don't forget to papmer your Blue Pearl with my unrivaled MB-5 and, occasionally, MB-13!M Maurizio, Expert Panelist
Q 6146: I have chocolate brown granite countertops and need to repair a small seam. The existing seaming material looks like epoxy or other resin based material. What should I use to make this repair and where can I obtain it? Thanks, Ernie, Jan 22, Reply
R1: Dear Ernie: Epoxy compounds are hard to get and diffuclt to manage. You'd be
better off removing whatever residue you have of the old filler and use clear 100% silicone to re-fill. Maurizio, Expert Panelist
Q 6145: I have a white marble bathroom counter which is about 20 years old and it has a orange rust like stain that seems to be in the marble. I don't know where it came from, or how to get it out. I have tried everything I can think of and nothing works. Do you have any suggestions? Any advise would be greatly appreciated. Thanks in advance, Loretta, Jan 22, Reply
R1: Dear Loretta: You will have to use Hydrogen Peroxide in a poultice. There's no
guarantee that it will come out completely, but you should be getting a remarkable improvement. Maurizio, Expert Panelist
 
Q 6143: I recently remodeled my home and had travertine tiles (honed and filled) installed in our kitchen/den area. My husband and I have been in the home for 4 months. The floor has pitted badly. Today the installer filled the holes with travertine filler. The filled areas are almost impossible to spot now. The installer did mention that in 20 years of working with travertine, he had never seen this happen to this extent. He suggested that perhaps the product was inferior. My fear is that the floor will continue to pit, and if so it should be replaced by a quality material. My general contractor, the supplier of the travertine and the installer have excellent reputations and I trust them, however, nobody seems to know why this might have happened. It is only my husband and I at home now, and we are anything but hard on our floor surfaces. Any ideas? Jan 21, Reply
R1: It’s mighty unusual, I can tell you that! I don’t think that anybody can point an accusing finger in any specific direction. The installer is certainly off the hook! It’s probably a workmanship flaw at the factory where they originally filled the tiles. Maybe they mixed a bad batch of filler, or something As the bumper-sticker says: happens! Let’s just hope that whatever happened is going the end of it. If not, it will need to be re-filled. The inherent quality of the stone has nothing to do with it. Hey, don’t forget to pamper your floor with our excellent MB, Expert Panelist
Q 6142: I have just had a cream limestone fireplace installed, my 4 year old daughter has drawn on it this morning in purple glitter gel pen or crayon. I am desparately trying to find something that will clean it off. Any help would be greatly appreciated. many thanks Jane, Jan 21, Reply
R1: Dear Jane:
1. Try with rubbing alcohol and a laundry brush. (natural fiber bristle is recommended) You may have to do it several times, blotting after each attempt.
2. If it doesn't bulge, get back to me.
3. Do NOT, under any circumstances, kill your daughter!!! :-)
Maurizio, Expert Panelist
Q 6141: The marble top on an old table is dull. How would be the best way to clean it and restore the shine.2. We had porcelain tile installed on our screened in porch. It is beautiful but it is so dull. Is there a product to give it at least a little luster or "life"? Thanks. Wanda, Jan 21, Reply
R1: Dear Wanda: Not the best way: the only way is to hire a stone restoration contractor. You could try our floor finishing product: MB-7. You will need to buff it, though. MB-7, like every other product Keep in mind that you will also need our floor cleaner, MB-1, which won’t damage the MB-7. Maurizio, Expert
Q 6140: We are remodeling our kitchen in our 100 year old house. We are trying to make a decision on countertops. We prefer to use stone, but do not like the look of the highly polished, glossy granites. We were very taken with a texturized travertine (called Old Church Gold), but were concerned that due to the porous nature of travertine it would be prone to staining. Also we have decided to go with a darker look and thus were looking at the "black" granites. It seems from your message board, however, that it is not recommended to go with a honed black granite. Thus, we are now looking into soapstone as an alternative. It has a more "period" look than highly polished stone, but I have not seen much information on its suitability for a kitchen countertop. Any thoughts or suggestions, Shaun, Jan 21, Reply
R1: Dear Shaun: Well, basically there’s nothing wrong about soapstone. I personally don’t like the look of it, but this is strictly a question of personal taste. The stone is very dense (it does not require to be sealed with an impregnator) and as acid resistant as they come. In fact it’s still the very favorite for chemical labs countertops. The downsize is that’s it’s extremely soft and scratches like crazy! ON the other hand, a light hand-sanding and the periodic application of mineral oil will take care of that. Other than that, the only recommendation I have is to use a good-quality stone cleaner for your daily routine like my excellent MB-5!, Maurizio, Expert Panelist

Q 6139: I installed this beautiful gray Italian limestone in my master bath, on the floor and on the vanity countertop. The installer, unfortunately, did not do a good job protecting the tile they installed on the floor. In particular, they did not seal the tiles before laying them, and as a result, each tile has a darkened "halo" around its perimeter where the grout was spread. I have not done anything in particular to try to clean this, and it may be too late. But is there anything you can recommend to remove stains from this stone? I would add that the stone was sealed several times after the installation was complete, so I'd have to remove those layers of sealer to be able to lift the stains, if that's even possible, Miachel, Jan 20, Reply
R1: Dear Michael: (Red Bank, huh! ... would it surprise you to know that we're only 15 minutes far away?! It's a small world, isn't it?! And you had to go all the way half around the planet through
an Indian web site to get in touch with me!! :-)) Down to your problem now: sealing it before installation would have not avoided the problem one bit. The darker "halo" is due to moisture that was absorbed by the stone from the sides and immediate underneath of the tiles, not from the top. Having applied an impregnator/sealer right after installation was certainly not the smartest thing to do: if there was chance that by drying out the halo would disappear, now this chance is greately reduced or at best greatly delayed. Removing the sealer - which I assume was an impregnator-type sealer (below surface) - is just abut impossible in consideration of the absorbency rate of that particular stone. What's more the kind of chemical most likely necessary (Methylene Chloride) would not do much good for the (possible) staining at this point: it could actually just worsen the situation! All you have to do now is wait for a couple of weeks or better while keeping your fingers crossed! It is also possible that the darker "halo" is not just plain moisture, but also some of the die in the grout. (That's why the application of the Methylene Chloride could be detrimantal: it would keep drawing the die from the grout into the stone!) Regardless, If that's the case, it's terminal.
And then some people ask me why am I so much against limestone! For some "weird" coincidence, all those people are mostly merchants who sell the stuff!! Hey, it's pretty!! Problems? No problems: we're gonna seal it!! :-) Maurizio, Expert Panelist
Q 6138: Hello I have a question ...I am getting Tile 12by 12 Sapphire Blue Granite tiles for my kitchen counter top. I understand this is from India. I was told to definitely seal this after instillation. How about cleaning it on a dally basis? Can you use your dish cloth that you use with dish soap? Thanks in advance, Penny, Jan 20, Reply
R1: Dear Penny: “I was told to definitely seal this after instillation.” Did you run my little lemon juice test to find out if ti does need to be sealed, or did you just listened to whomever?“Can you use your dish cloth that you use with dish soap?” Can?... It’s a free country: you can do anything you want! J Is the right thing to do? Maurizio Expert PAnelist
Q 6136: I am refinishing a table I have and I can't decide what color stain to use. I found a picture of an identical table in a magazine and it refers to the table as being a "Louis XVI Provencal faux-marble cabaret table". The only difference is, my table has a Black Marble top. So my question is: What color stain would go with the Black? Thank you for your help, Rocky, Jan 20, Reply
R1: Dear Rocky: Please, tell me that you’re pulling my chains! … I mean … since when one can stain marble?! The man upstairs took care of that many millenia ago, and that is that! Maurizio, Expert Panelist

R2: sounds fancy...I would go with a gilded leg & rail. Use several coats of clear lacquer to protect the expensive gold paint (seen for up to $80/gal.)
Q 6135: What is your opinion of Bedford Stone--a limestone from central Indiana, USA--as a material for a foundation and a fireplace? Don, Jan 20, Reply
R1: I'm not very familiar with that particular stone, but it should be OK. Maurizio, Expert Panelist
R2: The stone should sit for a minimum of two years within the location it is to be used as a foundation material. it must be exposed to the elements. any failures within the stone will be obvious after 2 seasons of freeze/thaw or rain/drought. you do not want to discover any tensile failure once it is in a foundation. Ba
R3: Hi Don, Indiana limestone quarried in the Bedford -Bloomington area is to domestic limestone as Carrerra Marble is to Italian Marbles. In other words, Indiana stone is the one all others are compared to. It has been used for many years on many buildings including the Empire State Building, the National Cathedral, St.John's in New York, and a significant portion of Chicago, so I'm sure it will work just fine for your needs. JVC, Expert Panelist
Q 6134: Which marble is more long lasting for bedrooms Turkish or Oman? Malika, Jan 20, Reply
R1: I have not the slightest idea, sorry. Maurizio, Expert Panelist
R2: you need to state the application of the marble and the specific type of Turkish or Oman marble. Typically, the larger the grain in the stone and the higher rate of homogony in the stone suggest higher durability. Think of the crystiline structures of limestone vs. marble, vs. granite. However, this is not a rule. God formed stones with an endless combination of chemical and mechanical processes. Therefore, each one must be looked at individually. Take a sample of each & run it through some tests. Grind your heel on to the surface to see how easily it scuffs. Drop a heavy object on it to see how easily it breaks. Pour some olive oil on it to see how badly it stains. Finally, rub a lemmon on it. I don't kow what might happen with this. Good Luck in the lab, Ba
Q 6133: hi i have just had a travertine entry hall installed the tiler chose to put very holey bits in the middle of the room which after filling have a dark edge, is this normla/desirable? there are 4 tiles like this. will they blend later or should i insist on having them removed, i dont like the aesthetic and am also worried about black splodges thanks, emma, Jan 19, Reply
R1: Dear Emma: it must be a bad day for me: I did not understand the fist thing about your story. Sorry. Maurizio, Expert Panelist
R2: The installer used an incompatible material to fill the holes, or they did not fill the holes fully. The surface finish must be noted to ensure proper patch material. Chances are your installer used an epoxy or polyester resin filler. If the problem stems from the former, oils from these filler materials leach into the surrounding travertine. if from the latter, dirt is collecting in the tiny cracks between the fill & the stone. Tiles do not need to be removed, but the patches must be excavated and re done with the proper material & process. JAHN patch is recommended for travertine, however you must use a certified installer. you're welcome, BA
Q 6132: I am building a new house. I want to completely rock in the shower and not use a shower door. I want to use man made rocks. I need instructions andadvice on what materials to use and the best way to go about building the shower.thanks Debra, Jan 19, Reply
R1: Man-made rocks? I only deal with God-made ones! :-) Maurizio, Expert Panelist
R2: Sounds like a bad idea if you do have design experience. You don't need a door if the entire room is water proofed. BA
Q 6130: Email me relevant information regarding silestone, sillstone or is it siltstone countertops. I am contractor/home improvement small business, researching for prospective customer, Fab, Jan 19, Reply
R1: How much are you willing to pay for the relevant information? Maurizio, Expert Panelist
Q 6129: I have a marble floor in the downstairs bathroom. It is used for guests and one of the guest missed the bowl if you know what I mean. How do I clean urine sports on marble with out bringing in an expert to polish it just to have it happen again? Thanks, Cheryl, Jan 19, Reply
R1: Dear Cheryl: If you have a discoloration (the marble has become a little yellow) then you need to poultice the stain out. If instead you only have a dull spot that looks like a water mark, then you could successfully use one of our products, namely MB-11 to repair the damage by actually re-polishing the stone surface. Keep in mind however, that many a time customers report to me urine etching, while in reality it’s something more severe caused by the spilling of some toilet-bowl cleaner. Those kinds of product are really nasty to the marble (highly acidic), and polishing alone would not work. Ureic acid (the acid contained in urine) is a light acid and can be handled with our MB-11. If you need additional assistance, don’t hesitate asking away. Maurizio, Expert Panelist
Q 6127: I have seen this stone called anything from Bahia Blue to Azul Macaubas to Blue Mabaubas - I believe they are all a quartzite from Bahia, Brazil, usually sold as a granite. It also tends to run $25-40/sq ft for 2cm thick slabs, considerably more expensive than most granites. Joe, Jan 19, Reply
R1: Azul Macaubas is quartzite. Azul Bahia (Bahia Blue in the US market) is granite. They both take their names from the regions of Brazil from which they are quarried and their color. Their is no such location in Brazil or word in Portuguese as "Mabaubas" -- therefore, this is a translation error, & probably meant to be Macaubas. The prices are higher because blue stone are rare in the unit stone market. Take warning, though...one of these fades to a mustard yellow with no trace of blue left when exposed to sunlight for only one year. Unfourtunately, I can't recall which one. But with common sense I believe it to be the quartzite due to the unstable chemical composition of these materials. you're welcome, BA
R2: We would like to offer you quartzite stone from Brazil. If you want we can send you a price list and samples for your approval. We look forward for your answer. Best Regards, Rogerio
Q 6126: I am midway through bathroom renovations. I’ve selected a white on white cultured marble for tub surround and vanity top. How uniform should one expect the gelcoat to be? Are dimples and welts normal? Also, why are some slabs free of black specks whereas others have many? Is this a matter of poor quality control? Does a customer have to settle for pieces dimpled, welted clearcoat and/or black specks? Martino, Jan 16, Reply
R1: Dear Martino: Pardon me for asking, but didn’t they tell you that cultured marble is nothing but a piece of manmade plastic? My (alleged) expertise is natural stone. Sorry, I don’t know the first thing about plastic, just because they use the word marble to label it. Maurizio, Expert Panelist
R2: All materials must match the sample provided by the supplier. Otherwise you are a victim of the "Bait & Switch". do not be a dumping ground for the inferior material. you're welcome, Ba
Q 6125: We would like to know the price for Black Galaxy granite 12" x 12" x 10 MM we need CIF Houston Price with following info:
Weight per tile for 12" X 12" 10 mm Black Galaxy Granite
How many will in each BOX? 6, 8 or 10?
It is assumed that the tiles will be pre polished top grade export quality. Only minor buffing will be required after installation. What should we allow for breakage? 5%, 10%, 15% or 20%? Delivery time for Houston after an order is confirmed? 3 Months, 4 Months, 5 Months, 6 months? Approximate quantity will be 5,000 - 6000 tiles. Sim, Jan 16, Reply
R1: How many will in each BOX? 12 tiles will be in one stay foam box

Only minor buffing will be required after installation? yes offcourse we feel you might need but our finish is mirror polished with imported polishing lines to make the finish more glossy.

What should we allow for breakage? 5% should be the maximum as the packages are completely secured and even this 5% sometimes are rare.

Delivery time for Houston after an order is confirmed? we need 30days to manufacture from the receipt of the L/c and shipping should take only 45days to reach Houston Port. Even 25-30days shipping lines are there but they are expensive.
Approximate quantity will be 5,000 - 6000 tiles:In a 20ft closed Top container you can load upto 7200-7500 Tiles.
Q 6124: email me relevant information . Specifically, any information on limestone. Like is it suitable to use on outdoor patios? There is occasional snow at the building location, Susan, Jan 16, Reply
R1: you must be more specific with your request. do a little leg work before you ask for free help, Ba
Q 6123: I am an Architecture Student at Carnegie Mellon University and recently saw some of your work in various publications. I am currentlyperforming a research project on stone products and I was wondering if you could answer the following questions briefly for my study:

1. Which of your products, in particular, has recently been in highest demand? Why do you suppose there is such a call for this particular product in recent years?

2. Has the current focus on "Green," "Environmentally conscious," and/or"Sustainable" architecture affected your sales in any way? Have you had to change your marketing strategy to present stone as a "Sustainable" building material?

3. Are most of the projects who use your products commercial, industrial orresidential? Are they new construction or historical rehabilitations?

4. Are any of your products made from recycled materials?

5. Can you describe the way in which some of your natural stone products are ade/quarried/processed? Is it an environmentally conscious process?

6. Do you recall any unusual architectural and/or artistic projects which have recently used your products? Thank you for your time. I appreciate, in advance, your committment to the education of architecture students on stone products.Andrew, Jan 16, Reply
R1: Sorry but I've never been involved in the distribution of stone. We manufacture specialty chemicals for the maintenance of natural stone. I can't answser your questions. Maurizio
R2: 1 - As a designer, I can tell you that Travertine is a very popular product on both East & West coasts now. Tumbled on the West Coast, polished on the East Coast. Mostly the creamy Turkish stones, probably because they have a clean, modern esthetic and are readily available in a variety of neutral tones.

#2 Stone products, being of a natural material, are used increasingly in place of tile for a natural feel in a home. A few reasons include it's beauty in raw form and when polished, its availablitity, and the modern preference for the real thing over a concieved knocked-off version, which is percieved as "being cheap". Sustainable? It's dirt. We've got LOTS of it!

#3 More individual customers will choose stone, but the fewer orders that are commercial jobs are for larger quantities. They both kind of equal out in terms of overall sales.

#4 If you are interested in a terrific contemporary but also rustic recycled material,They use about 97% post consumer glass material (most of it beer bottles!) to make their tile, which is undeniably beautiful, David
R3: Dont know where you saw my work.....i am a sculptor. i have many public commissions that were designed/created for specific locations/weather/public safety/etc.
dont forget to include art in your building designs. art is not just something that is hung/sited after the building is completed.
i have worked w many architects on competitions. i just keep trying. mcc
R4: 1# Granite for kitchen countertops for beauty, durability, value.
2# Not at all
3# Residential, both new construction and remodels
4# No, only packaging materials
5# By ancient means using wire saws and an abrasive slurry. In times past, not very environmentally conscious, now much more emphasis
6# we are currently working on several interesting projects that are artistic, Tad
R5: We find that there is an increased demand for stone generally, no particular product. Our natural pebbles have become very popular.I am not aware of our quarry process and how environmentally conscious it is. That’s a good point. We’ll check into that.We do residential and commercial. Nancy
Q 6122: Our newly installed Giallo Antico granite countertops also have that same grainy feel every day. When I use water to clean them the grains disappear, only to return later on. Would you be so kind as to share what advice you were given for this problem.
The installer came to our house and use an acetone substance one day and then use fine steel wool another day. Neither of these treatments cured the problem. Thanks, Natalie, Jan 16, Reply
R1: Dear Natalie: The grittiness you’re reporting is typical of that particular type of “granite”. It could be minimized by a weekly application of a very thin coating (be stingy!!) or our MB-13. You may also want to consider our routine cleaner, MB-5. Maurizio, Expert Panelist
 
Q 6118: Can you tell me where I can get advice on the pros and cons of using slate for kitchen counters? What care is required? If it does stain, is there any treatment I can do to remove the stain? And do you know who has had experience fabricating slate kitchen counters? Christie, Jan 14, Reply
R1: I have only a sentence for you: STAY AWAY FROM SLATE COUNTERTOPS!!! There’s no “miracle-in-a-bottle” that will ever solve even the first problem related to that material used in a kitchen. Maurizio, Expert Panelist
Q 6114: Two days ago my new granite counter tops were installed. The color is Kashmi Gold 2 and their local description is desert love. Prior to the installation, my husband and I made the 200 mile roundtrip to discuss particulars with the seller. The granite had a definite "grain" or pattern flowing, and I was concerned that one long are containing a L-shape would have a seam in it that didn't match. The technician who came to measure told me there was no way a seam could be made in the middle of the sink area like I suggested (to avoid seeing a possible non-matching problem) On the second trip to the company in Tampa, Fl I expressed my concern to the salesman who referred me to his uncle, the owner. His uncle told me it would be no problem and they would make the seam in the sink area. Needless to say, they came and installed the kitchen and the L-shape is a separate piece, and it does not match well. The pattern is flowing in one direction and is from a dark section of the stone, and the longest piece is from a light section and flowing the opposite direction. I had the installer call the production manager, and we agreed to withhold an amount of money until they could replace the offending section. He told me it would require at least three weeks, I am under the impression that the amount of money is less than what it would cost for them to come replace the section, but shall give them the benefit of doubt. Since the company was extremely late in doing the work (10 pm to finish up) I neglected to ask for a document giving us the "care and feeding" of our new kitchen. I had expected this would be sealed before they left. Now I am noticing that everything is spotting this granite. Fortunately there has been nothing worse than water on it, and I have towels under whatever I am working on. We have gone to the local Home Depot and other stores and can't find anything specifically for granite. Your website seems extremely informative (and scary sometimes-what have we done!!!-lots of money and maybe a lot of problems? Is our granite (kashmi gold 2 "desert love") any worse than other granites? Your advice would be appreciated. Virgina, Jan 14, Reply
R1: use 000 or 0000 steel wool to remove water spots. Ba
Q 6111: I've read through many entries on your web site and found it very helpful. But, I'm still a bit perplexed over my problem. We installed Ubba Tuba in our kitchen this Spring. I applied a sealer (Impregnator Pro by StoneTech). We had some problems with chipping around the sink and the stone company came out and put a 3/8" radius edge on the sink. The technician suggested that I re-seal the counter . This was 3 months after the inital application. I noticed then that the surface was very prone to smudges and smears - almost greasy. Spoke to Stonetech - they suggested removing the sealer with mineral spirits and then resealing. I've done this and it's the same story. What am I doing wrong??? I clean the counter with one of two things - Stonetech's granite cleaner or soap and water. The smudges drive me crazy. .. Can you help me.Smirti, Jan 14, Reply
R1: if you want a glass-like finish you must clean it as often as glass...good luck, Ba
Q 6110: I have remodeled my kitchen and installed the Baltic Brown granite countertop. I was not very happy with the work the installer did. The granite, especially the O.G.G. edge does not shine as much as I think it should. Can I put anything on it that will make it shine bright? Also, I had them install an under-mount sink. In a small part (about the size of a quarter) of the granite that borders the sink, there is a metal dark spot. I was told by the installer that this is an iron build-up that is natural to the stone. Is that true? Finally, the installer told me to use Windex for daily cleaning, what would you recommend? thanks, Leomari, Jan 14, Reply
R1: your installer is an idiot. never use windex on stone. mild solution of ivory & water is better. the ogee edge was not polished to the extent the surface was. it should be re-polished with a dry pad system. the iron deposit can be found in stone. but stone also sucks up iron oxide like a sponge. the rods used to support the sink might be untreated steel, if the installer used support rods at all. Ba
Q 6109: I purchased a home with a limestone hearth. The previous owners had spilled candle wax in numerous places. I've been able to scrape up most of the wax but oily stains remain. How can I remove the oily stains? John, Jan 14, Reply
R1: hot iron & cheese cloth, Ba