| Q 8224:
We had Ubatuba kitchen counter tops
installed 6 months ago. We sealed it on the advise of the installer;
we now know this is incorrect. There are two problems: 1) In several
areas the flex in the stone are rough to the touch and appear as chips
or dings in the granite. The owner of the company told us that these
imperfections are indiginous to the stone. Are they or could this
be defective granite? 2) There is a dull rim around the sink area,
which the owner of the company has unsuccessfully tried to buff out
and at this point cannot correct. Any assistance would be appreciated.
Thank you. JoAnn McDermott, Reply |
| R1:
Dear JoAnn: 1)Wrong: those imperfections are NOT indigenous to the
stone (especially Ubatuba); they’re indigenous to a low-grade
slab. 2) Your “Michelangelo” screw up the surface of the
stone when finishing the edges of the under mount sink-hole and now
he doesn’t know how to re-polish it. Only a proven stone restoration
refinisher could accomplish that for you. Maurizio, Expert Panelist |
| Q 8223:
I have read some of you advice on a
posting board that I stumbled onto through "dogpile". I
am in the process of installing (having installed) a slate floor!
I read some of your comments on this - but too late to change my mind
now. Reply |
| R1:
Dear Andy: “I have polished marble countertop in my kitchen…
Yes, I know it’s not the right stone, but is there anything that
could be done to avoid all the mess I have?” I’ve heard
that question a gazillion times by now! Obviously, if there were an
answer to that question polished marble in the kitchen wouldn’t
be so bad after all! But the fact is that polished marble in a kitchen
is the wrong stone for the application and that’s the end of
that; no buts, ifs or what-have-you.
Without considering
the fact that by saying slate you’re saying absolutely nothing
(there are over 100 species and very different from one another.
Some are good as roofing material, some of them crumble under you
feet, and some other melt in water!), the truth in the matter is
that (the right) slate only belongs on roofs, chalk-boards, pool
tables and walls (for as long as the walls are NOT inside a shower
stall!). End of the list. Beyond that, no matter which slate it
is that you have chosen, it’s going to be a continuous up-hill
battle to maintain it. A battle that, I assure you, you will always
loose in the long run. Yes, there are hard-shell topical coatings
(urethane-type) that you can apply on it; but then you will have
to deal with the maintenance of the coating – which is not
an easy feat. And when stripping time will come around … Oh
boy! :-(
Bottom line, the world maintenance taken in its true meaning does
not apply to slate. Maurizio, Expert panelist
|
| Q 8222:
My husband and I are considering using
12x12 granite tiles for our kitchen counters. Is there a tile store
or home improvement store in the Richmond, Virginia area that sells
the edge and corner tiles. Also, if we butt the tiles will we have
to grout, if so, what is the best type of grout to use? Reply
|
| R1:
Dear Dorrie: Retail outlets that sell tiles and marble may have edge
and corner tiles, but strictly ceramic, not certainly granite. You
may find some of those tiles as a good combination with your granite
tiles. The other alternative is to have a local fabrication shop to
make them for you out of you own granite tiles. As for the grout gap,
you do NOT want to “butt-joint”. A 1/16” grout gap
is “your man”. Personally I love using good-quality color
matching silicon caulk as grouting material. It’s somehow shiny
and totally liquid and stain proof. Now remember, it’s never
too early to think about the proper maintenance of your stone. The
issue of what you’ll be doing day in and day out to your stone
is far more important than the sealing itself and it’s all too
often neglected. Maurizio, Expert Panelist |
| Q 8221:
I have several hairline cracks in my
Ubatuba counter top (less than 1 year old). Is there a product I can
use as a filler to cover up the cracks? Thanks, HK, Reply |
| R1:
Dear HK:Is there a product I can use as a filler to cover up the cracks?”
Nope. But you can get the butt of your fabricator back on the job
and have them face their problem. Maurizio, Expert Panelist |
| Q 8220:
I RECENTLY HAD A NEW KITCHEN ST. CECEILLA
GRANITE COUNTERTOP INSTALLED. I NOTICED LITTLE PIT HOLES IN THE GRANITE
AND WAS TOLD THAT THIS IS NORMAL FOR THIS TYPE OF GRANITE. IS THIS
CORRECT AND IF NOT, ARE THERE DIFFERENT GRADES OF GRANITE THANKS FOR
ANY INFO JOE CARBONI, Reply |
| R1:
Dear Joe: Officially no, but yes, there are grades on granite. However,
all true geological granites and the vast majority commercial granites
do have little pits throughout their texture. Now remember, it’s
never too early to think about the proper maintenance of your stone.
The issue of what you’ll be doing day in and day out to your
stone is far more important than the sealing itself and it’s
all too often neglected. As you can tell by reading many of this site’s
postings, you’re not likely to get good information about it
from your dealer or installer. Don’t become another statistic!
Maurizio, Expert Panelist |
| Q 8219:
I am currently buying a home and have
had glazed ceramic tiles laid on the floor and granite counter tops.
I am looking to put a high gloss sealant on both to keep the grout
from staining, have a wet look on the floor and to preserve the counter
tops from spills, etc. What do you recommend as the best sealant to
use that will not yellow or peel after a couple of years? Reply
|
R1:
Dear Gerald: You’ve gotta be kidding me!! :-)
A high-gloss sealant for your granite countertop?? Why, isn’t
it shiny enough??! And what about the ceramic tiles? You want to seal
them, too??!! Fortunately, there’s no such an animal like the
stuff you’re looking for. All sealers for stone – bar none
– are impregnating-sealers, which means that they are below-surface
products. Second, not all commercial granites need to be sealed, and
if you seal them anyway, you could create problems. As for the sealing
of the ceramic tiles, the thought itself is simply ridiculous. There’s
nothing more sealed than ceramic! :-) And while you are in the “Helpful
Hints” section, do spend some time reading all of the interesting
FREE articles you’ll find in there about sealers and stuff! Maurizio,
Expert Panelist |
| Q 8218:
Hi I would like to know if you think
Kashimire gold countertop would would good with white cabients and
a beige and white tile and a tumblestone backsplash. Reply
|
R1:
Dear Jeff: I’m strictly a mechanic; please, leave me out of the
decorating business: I’m even 25% colorblind, for crying out
loud! :-) My comment, however, is that you’re starting with the
wrong foot.
I hope you will understand the true meaning of what I’m about
to say. It appears to me that like most other inquirers at this stage
you seem mostly interested in the type of “granite” and/or
its physical characteristics. It’s human nature at work, I reckon!:-)
How about if I tell you that a certain stone is a good choice and
then you get a low-grade slab? Trust me: the human factor is far more
important than the stone itself and should be the only true deciding
factor! In an industry that’s virtually unregulated, how good
and reputable the fabricator who’s is going to process the stone
you’ll end up choosing is far more important than the stone itself.
None of the horror stories that get posted in this very site stem
from the stone itself: they all stem from the fabricator. That is
why I seldom make final statements about any one particular stone.
There may be differences within the same stone (and I’m not talking
about looks, here!) from one bundle of slabs and the next. The slabs
may have also been either “doctored” (which is bad), or
“resined” (which could be good, but only to a certain extent)
by the factory, which would make a big difference. Even more important,
what’s a good stone in the hands of some “Michelangelo”?!
And again: a reputable fabricator will only carry high-grade slabs,
not some “special!” Maurizio, Expert Panelist |
Q 8217:
I would like to use this product in
18" tiles for a kitchen countertop. I submit this question having
read the section on Travertine where Maurizio has explained, in no
uncertain terms, that this is a bad idea.
I bought a piece of the tile I wanted and basically abused it in the
kitchen for two months. Yes, it scratched, but I cut directly on it.
I do not cut directly on my ugly Formica, nor will I cut directly
on the travertine. I set hot pans from the oven and the cook top,
no issues. I squished blackberries, spilled coffee, red wine, ketchup,
none of it stained (this was an unsealed piece). I dropped a can of
tomatoes on it, it did not break (and it wasn't installed mind you).
I was happy with the end result from my tests. I am also not neurotic
and will not be scouring my kitchen for defects and scratches. That
is why I wanted travertine over granite (had granite in my last house).
With a timid voice - still a bad idea? Reply |
R1:
Dear Shelly: “With a timid voice - still a bad idea?” Not
anymore it ain’t! You passed the test and self-qualified yourself
for honed and filled travertine in your kitchen! Read on and you will
understand.
“It’s a culture issue.
All throughout the Mediterranean basin marble is a very popular stone
as a kitchen countertop and everybody enjoys it. (Limestone is not
so popular, but certain types of limestone could be acceptable in
relation of what follows.) In Northern Europe and all throughout North
America, many like the way it looks, but nobody enjoys it!
How’s that? For the simple reason that In Southern Europe they
never install a polished marble countertop (or a polished marble floor,
for that matter). They start from a hone-finished surface and then
they start using and abusing it. The “worse” it gets, the
better they like it! It’s considered “aging.” It’s
like a pair of old blue jeans, if you know what I mean: a highly sought
“lived-in” look.
While the looks of
an old pair of jeans is very much appreciated in Northern Europe
or in North America, too, the same principle does not seem to apply
to stone. Most people over here expect their stone to look like
brand-new all the time, and any “change” is not considered
“aging”, but a damage that needs to be rectified.
Hence the problem.
The question now is: regardless of your geographical location, which
one of the two groups do you belong to? :-)” Maurizio, Expert
Panelist
|
| Q 8216:
We have a fairly new (6 months old)
hones abolutele black granite counter top. All the glasses slid off
a top shelf and I now have a few small nicks in the countertop. How
can that be repaired. Can it be rehoned? Thanks, f. Lynn, Reply |
| R1:
Dear Lynn: It will take more than honing: it will take grinding.
Something that I would certainly not consider having done on location,
for hand-held power-tools will create dips and waves. Maurizio, Expert
Panelist |
Q 8215:
Hi, just came across your site - answers
a lot of questions!
I have marble countertops - designed with cut black and white marble
pieces which are grouted in black. I know it is soft - but it is beautiful!
What can I use to seal this marble countertop? Thanks,Beverly, Reply |
| R1:
Dear Beverly: “What can I use to seal this marble countertop?”
Absolutely nothing. Marble is not soft: it’s based on calcium
carbonate. You probably have no idea what I am talking about, but
if you read my old answers you will understand. What’s more,
give it a few weeks of use and then you will realize exactly what
I meant. I won’t even tell you what to use to “maintain”
it, because, once again, there’s nothing – not even my incredibly
good specialty sealers and cleaners! Don’t forget your “Kleenex”!
But hey, it’s only money! :-) Maurizio, Expert Panelist |
| Q 8214:
I have a stain left on my grantite
countertop by a cloth that had Winks rust stain remover on it. my
countertop is uba tuba and it left a white place what can I do to
fix this problem thanks for any info you can give me Joyce Allman,
Reply |
| R1:
Dear Allman: Rust removers contain Hydrofluoric Acid, which is the
only acid that could damage granite and most commercial granites such
as your Ubatuba. Needless to say, what you have is not a stain, but
rather a mark of corrosion, an etch mark. You will need the services
of a bona fide stone restoration contractor, who will have to hone
and re-finish your countertop. It’s your only option. Maurizio,
Expert Panelist |
| Q 8213:
I have just purchased a new apartment
in which the floor of the shower is black slate. It is discolored..has
a grayish look to it..and I am wondering what I can do to clean it
and seal it so that it will not look unsightly. Many thanks, Gina,
Reply |
| R1:
Dear Gina: Try ripping it out. It usually works just fine! …
Actually, come to think of it, it’s the only thing that works!
Slate – no matter which one – does not belong in a shower.
Maurizio, Expert Panelist |
| Q 8212:
I have a new house which has a slate
hearth. A white ghost like stain has appeared in the middle. The builder
says that this is natural to slate and will not change it. Is it true
that slate naturally has ghost stains? Saru, Reply
|
| R1:
Dear Saru: I’m so sick and tired with problems related to slate
(whatever that means) that I usually trash all the queries coming
in about it. But this one is a little pearl! First off, which slate
do you have? There are a few hundreds different types, and I do mean
different! To the point that certain slate are an excellent roofing
material and certain other – at the end of the spectrum - will
melt in water! Second, this “ghost stain” thing and the
answer given to you by your builder (and easy out) are really something
that a guy like can use at the end of a long day! Ask the slate people:
they know everything about slate and then some! Maurizio, Expert Panelist |
| Q 8211:
I have a travertine kitchen floor and
have noticed some spots that I cannot get up. I use a cleaner/resealer
every week to clean. I believe that these may be grease spills that
were not wiped up right away. I need to reseal the floor but need
to get these up first. Any suggestions? Thank you. Reply |
| R1:
Dear: Travertine does not need to be sealed. It just does not belong
in a kitchen, period. You don’t have grease spills or water stains
or something. All the “water stains” you have on your stone
are marks of corrosions (etchings) made by various acidic or other
pH active liquids that became in contact with the surface of the stone,
i.e.: drinks, salad dressing, lemon juice, tomato sauce, orange juice,
and so on through a long list. There’s no product on the marketplace
that could prevent such surface-damages from happening. You will need
the services of a bona fide stone restoration contractor, who will
have to hone and re-finish your floor. You could also take a look
at my MB-11 from or website. Maurizio, Expert Panelist |
| Q 8210:
Is Verde San Francisco a granite? After
reading people inquires and your responses, I am beginning to think
that I should have done some homework and researches before venturing
into "granite" countertops...I have Verde San Francisco
in my kitchen and I found one little hole, and what looks like a rough
spot, it may be a dent ot something like that. I cannot remember anything
hitting as hard as causing that mark. I just want to know if there
is anything I can do to fix it, or seal it...I just want to cry! Thanks
for your help and for the great website. Reply |
| R1:
Dear Rita: No, Verde San Francisco is not granite by a long shot,
but it really doesn’t matter. You could have plenty of natural
flaws on true geological granite, too. And that’s exactly what
you have: a natural flaw. If what you have is only a little hole and
a rough spot, I would say that you should consider yourself fortunate!
If you can’t accept any little natural flaw, then natural products
like stone are not for you. As for the filling of the hole (nothing
can be done about the rough spot), consult with your fabricator; they
should be able to do something about it. Maurizio, Expert Panelist
|
| Q 8209:
Are water based sealants better than
solvent based products for light tumbled travertine and why is this?
Anthony Rushton, Reply |
| R1:
Dear Anthony: It all depends on where the stone is installed. Typically
(and I emphasize typically) water-carried impregnators are excellent
oil-repellents and good water-repellents, while solvent-carried products
are excellent water repellent and good oil repellents. Therefore in
a kitchen backsplash you would want to consider a water-carried product,
while in a shower stall an oil-carried product would be more appropriate.
Or … you could use my outlandish MB-4 and you solve both problems
at once. In fact, un-typically, MB-4 is the only product of its kind
that can claim to be both an excellent water-repellent and an excellent
oil-repellent! Maurizio, Expert Panelist |
| Q 8208:
Have a beautiful one year old polished
and filled travertine tile kitchen countertop that was sealed upon
installation and then sealed a second time about 6 to 7 months later.
Am also using a 3 in 1 cleaner/polisher/protecter about once per month.
Still getting water marks and rings from condensating glasses or spilled
water. Not noticable unless you look from the right angle or if the
light hits right, but is very noticable under those conditions. How
can I keep from getting more of these and how can I get rid of the
ones that are already there? Reply |
R1:
Dear Sarah: Contrary to popular and widespread misconception, travertine
is a very dense stone (not porous). When polished, it doesn’t
absorb a darn thing, not even the sealer! Hence, polished travertine
needs to be sealed just as much as you need a hole in your head!
Let’s just say that like any other calcite-based stone (marble,
onyx, limestone, etc.) polished travertine does not belong in a kitchen.
Why? Because it’s sensitive to acids and other pH active liquids,
that’s why. All the “water stains” you have on your
counter top are not stains at all, and they were certainly not caused
by water – no matter what they look like. They are instead marks
of corrosions (etchings) made by various acidic substances that became
in contact with the surface of the stone, i.e.: drinks, salad dressing,
lemon juice, orange juice, tomato sauce, and so on through a long
list. You will need the services of a bona fide stone restoration
contractor, who will have to hone and re-finish your tabletop. Anything
to prevent such damages from happening – you’re asking?
That question has been asked a few million times, but no matter how
many times it’s asked, the answer is always the same: no, there’s
nothing, and there will never be anything, unless you believe in alchemi!
That is the very reson why polished marble and travertine don’t
belong in a kitchen. Maurizio, Expert Panelist
|
| Q 8207:
A local fabricator apparently “resin
dips” their granite slabs 5 times. This sounds like a good thing,
no? Mary, Reply |
R1:
Dear Mary: If you like the idea of buying plastic instead of stone,
then, yes, it does sound like a good idea! :-)
At any rate, your fabricator is laying. First off, a “resining”
process that has any chance to be any good is done by the factory,
not the fabricator. Second, the slabs are resined not by dipping them,
but by pushing resin inside their natural pits and fissures in a vacuum
chamber environment. Third, No factory resins a slab more than once.
Forth, only certain “granites” get resined, not all of them:
considering the huge array of stones traded as granite that are not
granite it does make sense. Finally, the resining process – which
originally came into motion to eliminate certain natural shortcoming
of certain commercial granites – is getting used, more often
than not, to “upgrade” low-grade slabs.
I really don’t know how good a craftsman your fabricator is,
but the delivery of such a lie would be motif enough for me to look
for someone else. A good fabricator does not need such cacca-baloney
to sell.
Maurizio, Expert Panelist |
Q 8206:
Hi, I would very much appreciate your
opinion on these topics:
-granite on the floor of the shower stall and on the floor of the
bathroom; isn't it too slippery and therefore dangerous?
-our contractor recommends having one slab of granite on the shower
stall, instead of tiles. Is that a good ides? Thank you very much
for your answer, Suzana, Reply |
| R1:
Dear Suzana: All smooth surfaces are slippery when wet. Polished granite
and marble are not any more slippery that any other hard smooth material.
The slipperiness of granite or marble on the floor of a shower enclosure
is solved very effectively by installing small 4” x 4” tiles
with a grout gap of 1/8” instead of the standard 1/16”.
Therefore the recommendation of your setter to use slabs instead of
tiles is a very good one indeed as far as the walls are concerned,
not certainly the floor of the stall. Maurizio, Expert Panelist |
Q 8205:
A local retailer (in NC) was promoting
their granite as better because they do the following. "K2 Sealing
System is a special silicone-based formula and application process
designed to penetrate below the surface of granite...Works by penetrating
the pores, bonding to the stone and preventing staining...doesn't
need to be re-applied. Most stone companies use surface sealers...K2
won't wear off, give an unnatural appearance, yellow. We're so confident
that K2 works we guarantee if for as long as you own your countertop."
Believe it is applied before the polishing process. Any comments on
this approach. Thanks Larry, Reply |
R1:
Dear Larry: Do you believe in miracle?... Neither do I!
For starters, there’s no such a thing like a polishing process
while fabricating a countertop: the slab is finished (polished) by
the factory, not the fabricator. Second, no company ever uses any
surface sealer, for the simple reason that all the sealers for stone
– bar none – are all below surface, just like this wondrous
K2 sealing thingie; in fact they are more properly dubbed: impregnating
sealers, or simply impregnators. Third, silicon-based sealers are
those that last the least amount of time (they have to be re-applied
every couple of years or so), and therefore they are as obsolete as
the calendar of 10 years ago. To the best of my knowledge, there are
only two companies left that stubbornly stick to silicon-based sealer.
That’s probably due to the fact that they can’t formulate
a different one. Forth: the most important thing to do before applying
an impregnating sealer is to find out if the stone you’ll end
up choosing needs to be sealed at all to begin with. In fact, you
do NOT want to seal a stone that doesn’t need it! Fifth, a sealer
for stone only solves a little problem: staining, and offers no protection
whatsoever to the surface of the stone. Very definitely it does not
solve the major problems, which are: 1. Selection of a good fabricator
(not one that goes on record with claims that belong to some “snake-oil”
salesman at a country fair). 2. Selection of a good fabricator. 3.
Selection of a good fabricator. 4. Getting to know what to do and
what to use on your stone every day – which is far more important
that what you do to it once every so many years. 5. Did I say selection
of a good fabricator? :-) Bottom line, as shocking as it may sound,
no “miracle-in-a-bottle” can be considered as the substitute
for knowledge and true professionalism. Maurizio, Expert Panelist
|
| Q 8204:
We are considering a "Moca Cream"
Limestone or 3 different granites : namely "Azul Mahogany",
"China Green", or "Autumn Leaf". I am very confused
if any of these are good choices for a kitchen counter top ? PLEASE
HELP !!!! Reply |
R1:
Dear: The limestone is out of the question. As for the granite, let
me tell you which one is my very favorite: a good fabricator!
I hope you will understand the true meaning of what I’m about
to say. It appears to me that like most other inquirers at this stage
you seem mostly interested in the type of “granite” and/or
its physical characteristics. It’s human nature at work, I reckon!
:-) How about if I tell you that a certain stone is a good choice
and then you get a low-grade slab? Trust me: the human factor is far
more important than the stone itself and should be the only true deciding
factor!
In an industry that’s virtually unregulated, how good and reputable
the fabricator who’s is going to process the stone you’ll
end up choosing is far more important than the stone itself. None
of the horror stories that get posted in this very site stem from
the stone itself: they all stem from the fabricator. That is why I
seldom make final statements about any one particular stone. There
may be differences within the same stone (and I’m not talking
about looks, here!) from one bundle of slabs and the next. The slabs
may have also been either “doctored” (which is bad), or
“resined” (which could be good, but only to a certain extent)
by the factory, which would make a big difference. Even more important,
what’s a good stone in the hands of some “Michelangelo”?!
And again: a reputable fabricator will only carry high-grade slabs,
not some “special! Maurizio, Expert Panelist |
| Q 8203:
Hi. Your website is very informative,
but I still have a question. A couple of years ago we remodeled our
kitchen and installed Uba Tuba granite kitchen coutertops. I have
been extremely happy with them so far, but recently have noticed some
"ring stains" resulting from what I think was a pop can
that had a bit of pop on the bottom and then stuck to the countertop.
Is there any way to remove these rings. Also, I have never sealed
this surface (installer said I did not have to). Do you think I should
and if so what product should I use? Thanks. Jane. Reply |
| R1:
Dear Jane: You’re installer was right about the sealing issue.
Now, about your stain: how does it look like? Is it darker than the
rest of the stone, or is it lighter? Let me know and than we’ll
take it from there. Maurizio, Expert Panelist |
| Q 8202:
Hi, I am a new owner of an old house.
The previous owner installed traverttine floors in kitchen, den, bath
and master dressing room. Its been a year now and the floors look
to me like they need TLC. The kitchen/Den is the worst. They are dull
and scratchy looking. Do I polish them somehow? The biggest problem
is we have pets and one of them must have "thrown up" on
the tile as there are several areas of what looks like etched spots
from stomach acid. I have tried specialized cleaners, floors sealers
and shine materials nothing works. How do I repair these? What do
I do to care for these
Hi, I am a new owner of an old house.
The previous owner installed traverttine floors in kitchen, den,
bath and master dressing room. Its been a year now and the floors
look to me like they need TLC. The kitchen/Den is the worst. They
are dull and scratchy looking. Do I polish them somehow? The biggest
problem is we have pets and one of them must have "thrown up"
on the tile as there are several areas of what looks like etched
spots from stomach acid. I have tried specialized cleaners, floors
sealers and shine materials nothing works. How do I repair these?
What do I do to care for these floors - I have tried looking through
your site but have not found the problem and the free care tips
you have suggested to others do not seem to be available any longer.
Thanks for any help. Rachael, Reply
|
| R1:
Dear Rachael: Your only option is to hire a bona fide stone restoration
contractor who will lightly grind (hone) and polish your stone. Now,
you’d better watch out! I consider stone refinishing as the very
pinnacle of all the activities related to stone from a professional
point of view. Unfortunately, there are a lot of quacks on the loose
out there! How could you tell a champ from a chomp? Could you trust
the recommendation of your local stone distributor, or contractor,
or your interior decorator? Hardly! Maurizio, Expert Panelist |
| Q 8201:
I had my kitchen floor done in tumbled
travertine before any base cabinets were installed. We then put the
cabinets on top of the installed travertine tiles. I have been told
that because travertine is a "soft stone" that this type
of installation will cause problems. Not sure I believe this. Prior
to the remodel, the cabinets were installed directly over the plywood
sub flooring (the kitchen is on the second floor). I am just taking
a guess, but I believe the compressive strength of even a soft stone
like travertine has to be much higher than the compressive strength
of plywood. Are there other issues here that I am not taking into
account? Any thoughts or comments? Thanks, Ron D, Reply |
R1:
Dear Ron: It may be considered a “soft” stone, but you don’t
want to be hit on your head with one of those tiles! Let’s not
forget that the Ancient Romans used travertine to build the Coliseum
and pave some of their roads! (And they didn’t have rubber tires
on their vehicles!)
Bottom line, whoever raised the issue about the suitability of travertine
in your floor under the cabinet is somebody who doesn’t understand
much about stone and the little he understands, he understands it
wrong! :-) Maurizio, Expert Panelist |
| Q 8200:
Had new kitchen counter tops (Verde
Peacock - which, if my Spanish is correct, is the same as peacock
green) installed several weeks ago. Look great but we are now seeing
faint rings in various places. The contractor applied one coat of
sealer. Searched your web site for answers and based on replies to
similar questions I think I have figured this out - just want to verify.
I'm guessing the problem is with the sealing and not the granite.
Did the lemon juice test and I'm not sure the counters need to be
sealed at all (based on your responses to a similar questions on peacock
green). I think my next step is to do the removal using methylene
chloride paint stripper. Make sense? Thanks (and I can't believe how
much I've learned from browsing your web site. Phil, Riverside, IL,
Reply |
R1:
Dear Phil: You guessed everything right! Verde Peacock (which is Charnockite,
not granite) should not be sealed. Many times people are baffled by
my opposition to sealing stones that don’t need to be sealed,
and are wondering why. They assume that sealing the anyway wouldn’t
hurt. Now you know why I am opposing the practice via first-hand experience!
Now remember, it’s never too early to think about the proper
maintenance of your stone. The issue of what you’ll be doing
day in and day out to your stone is far more important than the sealing
itself and it’s all too often neglected. Maurizio, Expert Panelist
|
Q 8199:
1.. Is Granite better than the man
made stones as in Silestone?
2.. Does Granite need to be sealed, I thought I read no but then thought
I saw yes. They said it would come sealed from the factory, is this
good and then just don't seal it again?
3.. What type of cleaners do we need for it?
4.. What really stains them?
I would appreciate your help in this matter before we make the mistakes
a lot of people have already done. Thank you, Kathy, Reply |
R1:
Dear Kathy: You're absolutely right, there's a lot of confusion about
granite and "granite". I am sure you will understand that
the confusion is coming from the human factor, not the stone. A good
fabricator is key to the whole "granite adventure" and should
have all the answers to your questions below. I might be wrong, but
it appears to me that like most other inquirers at this stage you
seem mostly interested in the color of the "granite" and/or
its physical characteristics. How about if I tell you that a certain
"granite" is a good choice and then you get a low-grade
slab?
In an industry that's virtually unregulated, how good and reputable
the fabricator who's is going to process the stone you'll end up choosing
is far more important than the stone itself. None of the horror stories
that get posted in this very site stem from the stone itself: they
all stem from the fabricator. That is why I seldom make final statements
about any one particular stone. There may be differences within the
same stone (and I'm not talking about looks, here!) from one bundle
of slabs and the next. The slabs may have also been either "doctored"
(which is bad), or "resined" (which could be good, but only
to a certain extent) by the factory, which would make a big difference.
Even more important, what's a good stone in the hands of some "Michelangelo"?!
And again: a reputable fabricator will only carry high-grade slabs,
not some "special!" Maurizio, Expert Panelist |
Q 8198:
The questions I have pertain to Kashmir
white kitchen countertop and
travertine in the bathroom and shower. Am I asking for trouble installing
Kashmir white granite in the kitchen? Is there a reason that it is
very hard to find? Does the fact of it not being as available as,
for example Uba tuba, mean that retailers stay away from it because
it is not as strong as a dark granite? What should I watch out for,how
do I take care of it as not to get it stained? I have black granite
in the foyer,it has turned very dull over the time,I like to avoid
a similar "detiriation" in the kitchen.I realize we do not
walk on the countertop,but my point is that it will get "use
and abuse damage"
For the bathroom my husband an I decided on travertine marble.Again,
can you give me any suggestions as to how I can take care of it from
the start.The fact that it is porous,is it a bad idea to put it into
the bathroom and shower? We had dark green marble before and it was
no problem.However we have white marble tile on the floor in the basement
an it is a big problem.Surface is scratched,it is yellowed and generally
not as nice as I hoped it would be in the long run.Any suggestions
what I can do about that? Thank you so much for your help. I am looking
foreward to hear from you Sincerely Gerhild, Reply
|
R1:
Dear Gerhild: Let's start with the White Kasmir. You're asking the
wrong question. The right question should be: "Am I looking for
trouble if I use this kind of 'granite' as the deciding factor and
I go to whoever carries it, even if the guy turns out to be a 'Michelangelo'?"
What I mean by that is that your ONLY decision factor should be the
fabricator. And once you find the right one, you choose your stone
among those that they have vailable. Never the other way around!
Like most other inquirers at this stage you seem mostly interested
in the color of the "granite" and/or its physical characteristics.
How about if I tell you that a certain "granite" is a good
choice and then you get a low-grade slab?
In an industry that's virtually unregulated, how good and reputable
the fabricator who's is going to process the stone you'll end up choosing
is far more important than the stone itself. None of the horror stories
that get posted in this very site stem from the stone itself: they
all stem from the fabricator. That is why I seldom make final statements
about any one particular stone. There may be differences within the
same stone (and I'm not talking about looks, here!) from one bundle
of slabs and the next. The slabs may have also been either "doctored"
(which is bad), or "resined" (which could be good, but only
to a certain extent) by the factory, which would make a big difference.
Even more important, what's a good stone in the hands of some "Michelangelo"?!
And again: a reputable fabricator will only carry high-grade slabs,
not some "special!" Maurizio, Expert Panelist |
| Q 8197:
My kitchen cabinets are white and I
plan to use a green granite countertop- silver sea green or verde
lavra. I had planned to purchase a white slide in stove which has
a true white flat glass top. Will this look alright with the darker
counter top? If not, what would you recommend? Reply |
R1:
Dear Sandi: Please, pretty please, let me out of interior decorating!
I'm even 25% colorblind, for crying out loud!!:-)
But I will tell you what is my favorite granne granite: A good fabricator!!
Let me explain myself a little better, hoping that you wll understand
what I mean. Like most other inquirers at this stage you seem mostly
interested in the color of the "granite" and/or its physical
characteristics. How about if I tell you that a certain "granite"
is a good choice and then you get a low-grade slab?
In an industry that's virtually unregulated, how good and reputable
the fabricator who's is going to process the stone you'll end up choosing
is far more important than the stone itself. None of the horror stories
that get posted in this very site stem from the stone itself: they
all stem from the fabricator. That is why I seldom make final statements
about any one particular stone. There may be differences within the
same stone (and I'm not talking about looks, here!) from one bundle
of slabs and the next. The slabs may have also been either "doctored"
(which is bad), or "resined" (which could be good, but only
to a certain extent) by the factory, which would make a big difference.
Even more important, what's a good stone in the hands of some "Michelangelo"?!
And again: a reputable fabricator will only carry high-grade slabs,
not some "special!" Maurizio, Expert Panelist |
Q 8196:
Dear Sir, We had sealed polished granite
(dark brown / grey) with water based penetrating sealer.
As the granite was really porous, it took in 4 coats. It was allowed
to cure for 4 days. Thereafter we put ink / oil to test the surface.
The same was left on it for 2 days. When we cleaned the the surface
with neutral pH cleaner. The ink came off 80% and the oil seemed to
have penetrated as the surface looked darkened.
The question is: How to dislodge / remove oil from this granite surface?
I look forward to your reply. M. Jhaveri, Reply |
R1:
Dear Mehul: No impregnating sealer will ever guarantee 100% sealing
performance, especially on a very porous stone and, especially again,
when you leave staining agents sitting on it for such a long time.
Having said that, When it comes to stain removal, either you buy one
of those expensive "Professional kits" (that no true professional
ever uses!) at a stone retailer near you, or you can spend less money
and get my comprehensive guidelines on how to remove stains by using
inexpensive and far more effective means that you may already have
in your household! Maurizio, Expert Panelist |
| Q 8195:
My granite countertop is cracked all
the way through from the front of the sink to the edge of the countertop
(about an inch and a half to two inches from end of sink to edge).
It is a dark color. I cannot afford to replace the granite countertop.
What can I do to fill the crack and make it not visible (at least
mostly!). Thanks, Lindsay Nelson, Reply |
| R1:
Dear Lindsday: You can't do nothing, sorry. But you don't have to
replace the countertop: your fabricator has to. They should have rodded
that particular spot. If they did, it would have never cracked. Maurizio,
Expert Panelist |
| Q 8194:
Hello, could you please help me I just
got a new granite stone installed in my bathroom only one day ago,
I did not realize and put a baby oil bottle on top of the counter
and now I have a big stain on top of my counter.............need your
help please advice what to do or what product will work thanks. Reply |
R1:
I've only had my granite worktop fitted for a couple of weeks and
now I'm horrified to find that there are quite a few marks already.
I think the supplier called it Shan Xi Black and said it was imported
from China (probably not the highest quality out there) but looking
at your gallery that one looks completely black. Mine is more of a
very dark grey with black speckles. It was sealed with an impregnator
sealant apparently.
A few days ago my children were squeezing grapefruits and left a couple
on the granite - wherever the granite has come into contact with the
grapefruit it has left light marks - one of them a huge ring.
The cutter/fitter suggested using black boot polish or black ink -
the boot polish may have helped a little but not much - I haven't
yet tried the ink but I'm wondering from reading some of your Q/A
whether it is the sealant that is at fault - although you only mention
absolute black as not needing to be sealed. Also - is the ink idea
just plain daft or should I give it a go?
I would be very grateful for any advice (especially with any cheap
solutions) as 2 weeks does not seem a very long shelflife for a 'granite'
worktop! Many thanks, Andrea |
| Q 8193:
I have a black honed granite countertop
that is blotchy and has darker circles all over it. I haven't gotten
anywhere with the installer - he said this is just what the stone
looks like. Is this problem something a color enhancer will improve?
Is there any way to change the honed finish? Thank you! Reply |
R1:
Dear Katy: Of course, it is NOT supposed to look like that!
There are indeed different opinions on the issue of sealing black
hone granite, but there is a unanimous consensus about the fact that
it presents maintenance issues. The problem with honed black granite
is that it is not, well . black any more! Most black stones are but
an optical illusion: they become black only when highly polished,
or when wet. (See the back of your slab to see the REAL color of your
stone!) As you take gloss off the stone surface (and honing does just
that) you lose depth of color and the stone turns gray; but when you
wet it ... here it is black again! As you spill oily liquids, or you
simply touch the stone surface with your fingers (perspiration), you're
going to have all sorts of dark surface stains that are a terrible
eyesore. Please notice that I said: SURFACE stains, not imbedded stains.
In fact, you can clean those stains off (though with lots of labor),
while if they were imbedded you would have to poultice them out. If
you apply an impregnator/sealer in the stone you will not solve your
problem one bit: in fact the sealer will only prevent liquids from
being absorbed by the stone (which in the case of black honed granite
is an unlikely event to begin with), not the staining of its surface.
Any solution? Well, yes: you have to give up the gray! Maurizio, Expert
Panelist |
| Q 8192:
I am in the process of purchasing granite
for my kitchen counter. My first thought was to buy absolute black,
because I want an Asian look, and I love the shiny black granite.
After I read some of your Q's & A's Absolute Black seems like
a poor choice. I thought Emerald Pearl, with it's flexs of metalic
would be better. Should I make this compromise. I keep going back
and forth with my discision and now I'm down to the last week before
my discision is final. Please help me with info on both granites and
which would be the right choice for this new kitchen. Thank you. Confused,
Linda, Reply
|
R1:
Dear Linda: Let me tell you which is my very favorite granite: a good
fabricator!
Like most other inquirers at this stage you seem mostly interested
in the color of the "granite" and/or its physical characteristics.
How about if I tell you that a certain "granite" is a good
choice and then you get a low-grade slab?
In an industry that's virtually unregulated, how good and reputable
the fabricator who's is going to process the stone you'll end up choosing
is far more important than the stone itself. None of the horror stories
that get posted in this very site stem from the stone itself: they
all stem from the fabricator. That is why I seldom make final statements
about any one particular stone. There may be differences within the
same stone (and I'm not talking about looks, here!) from one bundle
of slabs and the next. The slabs may have also been either "doctored"
(which is bad), or "resined" (which could be good, but only
to a certain extent) by the factory, which would make a big difference.
Even more important, what's a good stone in the hands of some "Michelangelo"?!
And again: a reputable fabricator will only carry high-grade slabs,
not some "special!" Maurizio, Expert Panelist |
| Q 8191:
We are considering using the verde
marinache for our kitchen countertops, which is a quite large area.
Whats your take on this certain granite? thank you. Reply |
R1:
Does that thing look like granite to you???
Doesn't it look like a river bed? Well, it may comes as a shock to
you, but that's exactly what it was! So much for granite that by its
own definition is a plutonic igneus rock!! :-) Having said that, to
make that natural conglomerate of different stones look as uniformly
finished as possible, the slabs are heavily doctored. If you have
a very busy kitchen, you don't want that stuff in it; but if your
kitchen is light-duty, then it could be acceptable.
Regardless, it looks to me that like most other inquirers at this
stage you seem mostly interested in the color of the "granite"
and/or its physical characteristics. How about if I tell you that
a certain "granite" is a good choice and then you get a
low-grade slab? In an industry that's virtually unregulated, how good
and reputable the fabricator who's is going to process the stone you'll
end up choosing is far more important than the stone itself. None
of the horror stories that get posted in this very site stem from
the stone itself: they all stem from the fabricator. That is why I
seldom make final statements about any one particular stone. There
may be differences within the same stone (and I'm not talking about
looks, here!) from one bundle of slabs and the next. The slabs may
have also been either "doctored" (which is bad), or "resined"
(which could be good, but only to a certain extent) by the factory,
which would make a big difference. Even more important, what's a good
stone in the hands of some "Michelangelo"?! And again: a
reputable fabricator will only carry high-grade slabs, not some "special!"
Maurizio, Expert Panelist |
| Q 8190:
I am located in south Florida and have
bought a condominium which needs renovation. I am trying to match
some vein cu travertine navona that has been down about 20 years.
Can't find vein cut but am able to locate cross cut travertine.Prices
range for12"x12" from 6.00/sq ft (an Internet dealer) to
6.45/sq ft (local dealer) to 3.50sq ft(in Miami) The individual selling
the 6.00 tile (who has to ship it to me from Georgia) tells me his
Italian travertine is superior to anyone else' travertine and that
the 3.50 product cannot possibly be the quality of a more expensive
product. I/m not sure that i am actually comparing apples to apples.
What questions should I be asking?> Does the country source make
a difference? Does the percentage of fill matter? Is honed or polished
preferable? It will be used in a den and bathroom, Many thanks. JH,
Reply |
R1:
Dear JH: Since the "man upstairs" did not invent georaphy,
the county of origin has nothing to do with the inherent quality of
a natural product. Worksmanship is a different story, but a piece
of stone?...
The number of the holes does have to do with quality: the higher the
number, the lower the grade.
As for the honed-finish vs. polished issue, considering where you
will be installing your stone, I would go with a honed-finished product.
Now remember, it's never too early to think about the proper maintenance
of your stone. Maurizio, Expert Panelist |
| Q 8189:
I am about to install travertine floors
in my home, it will be installed in the next few days. I purchased
the stone from a reputable dealer and am having the installation done
by a professional who specializes in travertine.
When the pallets of my stone arrived
at the retailer, it appears that the stone had been stored outside
through recent rains. Upon viewing the pallet, separate from the
sample, it appears that the fill was much darker. The retailer insists
that the dark fill will lighten when it dries, and there is no harm
to the travertine being subject to rain. I've been drying several
tiles myself at home, this does appear to be the case.
My questions: is there any harm that
could be caused to the travertine if they were subject to rain prior
to installation? Also, will I be safe installing this tile if the
fill isn't completely dry, as long as I don't seal it right away?
The installer indicates that the fill will continue to dry even
after installation, as long as I don't seal it until they're completely
dry. Thanks!
Anthony, Reply
|
R1:
Dear Anthony: If the travertine was exposed continuously to the rain,
(like in outdoor installations) then it would get danaged by it: rain
is slightly acidic. But in your case, I wouldn't worry. If the tiles
that you opened are all right, that's the end of that! As for the
sealing issue, travertine is quite a dense stone, and if it's highly
polished the application of a sealer would be a total waste of time
and labor. (Not a single drop of sealer would ever go in.)
Now remember, it's never too early to think about the proper maintenance
of your stone. Maurizio, Expert panelist |
| Q 8188:
Can you give me any advice on the stone
called 'violetta' which I am considering for kitchen countertops?
I enjoy your 'advice column' very much. Thank you. Carole, Melbourne,
Reply |
R1:
Dear Carole: Thanks for your nice words!
All things being equqals, if the slab is a good grade, Violetta is
a good stone. However ... It appears to me that like most other inquirers
at this stage you seem mostly interested in the color of the "granite"
and/or its physical characteristics. How about if I tell you that
a certain "granite" is a good choice and then you get a
low-grade slab?
In an industry that's virtually unregulated, how good and reputable
the fabricator who's is going to process the stone you'll end up choosing
is far more important than the stone itself. None of the horror stories
that get posted in this very site stem from the stone itself: they
all stem from the fabricator. That is why I seldom make final statements
about any one particular stone. There may be differences within the
same stone (and I'm not talking about looks, here!) from one bundle
of slabs and the next. The slabs may have also been either "doctored"
(which is bad), or "resined" (which could be good, but only
to a certain extent) by the factory, which would make a big difference.
Even more important, what's a good stone in the hands of some "Michelangelo"?!
And again: a reputable fabricator will only carry high-grade slabs,
not some "special!" Maurizio, Expert Panelist |
| Q 8187:
I purchased a home with travertine
in all rooms. Several months after I moved in, I noticed that it was
developing holes. The holes have since increased to hundreds. I received
an estimate for repair and polishing, at which time they told me that
it was a normal occurrence and not to worry about the future of the
floor. I cannot afford to hire a professional at this time, or any
time in the near future. Do you think it is possible for me to fill
in the holes without damaging the value of the floor? If so,where
can I find detailed instructions? Also, is it true as they told me
that it is not a problem to leave the floor with little holes (and
some quite large) everywhere? Thanks for your help, Wendy, Reply |
| R1:
Dear Wendy: Unfortunately there's not much I can tell you this side
of hiring a professional. If they were a few holes, then maybe; but
hundreds of them? It is certainly not a DIY project. Should you worry
about your open holes? It looks like the ancient Romans didn't when
they built the Coliseum! :-)Maurizio, Expert Panelist |
| Q 8186:
Could you please tell me how much of
a gap is suppose to go between granite floor tiles? We have heard
from 0 - 1/16".... Also what is the best way to lay down the
granite (with mortar or something else) We have already put the cement
board on the floor. Thank you... Diane, Reply |
| R1:
Dear Diane: Just forget about 0 (butt-joint); you’ve gotta have
grout in between your tiles. 1/16” with unsanded grout is “your
man”! White thin set. Now remember, it’s never too early
to think about the proper maintenance of your stone. The issue of
what you’ll be doing day in and day out to your stone is far
more important than the sealing itself and it’s all too often
neglected. As you can tell by reading many of this site’s postings,
you’re not likely to get good information about it from your
dealer or installer. Maurizio, Expert Panelist |
| Q 8185:
we have a large family home in the
Westlake area of Austin with a substantial amount of limestone,window
trim,quoins,pool pavers. We have tried every thing known and have
not been sucessful,can you help???Many Thanks Bill, Reply
|
R1:
Dear Bill: “can you help???” I sure can! I won’t be
making any money by trying to sell you any of my products, but help
you I will: GET RID OF THE STUPID THING, and keep in mind that’s
only money!
If you can spend some time reading my comments about limestone, you
will realize that my above advice is the only option that you have
to keep your sanity! Maurizio, Expert Panelist, |
| Q 8184:
My husband and I have been looking
for new countertops for over 1 year. We have white cabinets and a
wood floor. Really like the natural and old world look. Would like
a counter that is in the beige, brown, gold family. I have fallen
in love with the look of porcelain tile, but I get mixed reviews on
the maintenance of the grout. I keep a clean kitchen but have three
children. My island is about 9 feet long ( we eat alot of meals there
and therefore was thinking of doing granite their. What is your feedback
on the porcelain tile with grout? Any granite colors you can recommend?
Or other tops you recommend? Thanks Kathy, Reply |
R1:
Dear Kathy: Epoxy grout, latex modified grout, etc.? No matter what
it’s always going to be a problem to keep it clean. A solid granite
slab is always the best way to go, if the money factor is not a consideration.
You’re asking me about a granite color that I could recommend;
the answer is quite simple: any granite color will be fine in the
hands of a good fabricator! I hope you will understand the true meaning
of what I’m about to say. It appears to me that like most other
inquirers at this stage you seem mostly interested in the type of
“granite” and/or its physical characteristics. It’s
human nature at work, I reckon!:-) How about if I tell you that a
certain stone is a good choice and then you get a low-grade slab?
Trust me: the human factor is far more important than the stone itself
and should be the only true deciding factor!
In an industry that’s virtually unregulated, how good and reputable
the fabricator who’s is going to process the stone you’ll
end up choosing is far more important than the stone itself. None
of the horror stories that get posted in this very site stem from
the stone itself: they all stem from the fabricator. That is why I
seldom make final statements about any one particular stone. There
may be differences within the same stone (and I’m not talking
about looks, here!) from one bundle of slabs and the next. The slabs
may have also been either “doctored” (which is bad), or
“resined” (which could be good, but only to a certain extent)
by the factory, which would make a big difference. Even more important,
what’s a good stone in the hands of some “Michelangelo”?!
And again: a reputable fabricator will only carry high-grade slabs,
not some “special!” Maurizio, Expert Panelist |
| Q 8183:
We have picked out our Granite Top,
its called Giallo Tara from Brazil its light brown and black spots
as well. My question is with a good sealer will it be protected from
stains and how long does the sealer protect the granite, or do we
have to seal it every few months. We almost picked a granite called
Uba Tuba which is black but we found out it shows dust and dirt real
easy. So we went with the the Brown granite instead. Please let me
know anything helpful with our granite. Thanks Rick. Reply |
R1:
Dear Rick: Giallo Tara?? I’ve never heard of that particular
stone – at least not under that name.
Regardless, I hope you will understand the true meaning of what I’m
about to say. It appears to me that like most other inquirers at this
stage you seem mostly interested in the type of “granite”
and/or its physical characteristics. It’s human nature at work,
I reckon!:-) How about if I tell you that a certain stone is a good
choice and then you get a low-grade slab? Trust me: the human factor
is far more important than the stone itself and should be the only
true deciding factor!
In an industry that’s virtually unregulated, how good and reputable
the fabricator who’s is going to process the stone you’ll
end up choosing is far more important than the stone itself. None
of the horror stories that get posted in this very site stem from
the stone itself: they all stem from the fabricator. That is why I
seldom make final statements about any one particular stone. There
may be differences within the same stone (and I’m not talking
about looks, here!) from one bundle of slabs and the next. The slabs
may have also been either “doctored” (which is bad), or
“resined” (which could be good, but only to a certain extent)
by the factory, which would make a big difference. Even more important,
what’s a good stone in the hands of some “Michelangelo”?!
And again: a reputable fabricator will only carry high-grade slabs,
not some “special!” Maurizio, Expert Panelist |
| Q 8182:
Dear Sir/Gentlemen: I wish you will
kindly advise me as of which is the best adhesive to use to bond granite
tile to a slab of concrete. I am planing to remove the carpet in my
living room (first floor) and replace it with granite tile. Thanks,
HB Pratt, Reply |
| R1:
Dear HB: White thin set. Now remember, it’s never too early to
think about the proper maintenance of your stone. The issue of what
you’ll be doing day in and day out to your stone is far more
important than the sealing itself and it’s all too often neglected.
As you can tell by reading many of this site’s postings, you’re
not likely to get good information about it from your dealer or installer.
Maurizio, Expert Panelist |
| Q 8181:
We have installed a new kitchen that
is now 9mths old. We chose a lighter granite (think it may be cashmere
gold, but not sure) we discovered the first crack before Christmas,
from the corner of the sink to the edge of the bench top just above
the dishwasher. A representative from the company came to look at
it and told me that the kitchen manufacture should have put a support
from cupboard to cupboard above the dishwasher, he also said that
the lighter the granite the more chance of it cracking. He filled
the crack with a clear glue/sealer. I am very disappointed with this
as the crack can be seen, the bench tops cost over $3,000.00AU. This
morning we noticed that we have another 2 cracks in the granite, extending
from the corners of the cook top to the edge of the bench. Can you
give me an opinion as to whether the granite because it is lighter
could be prone to cracking? Margaret, Reply |
| R1:
Dear Margaret: Unfortunately, the kind of glossary you’re using,
i.e.: “should have put a support from cupboard to cupboard above
the dishwasher” is something I’m totally unfamiliar with.
Probably the way dishwashers are installed in Australia is different
from the way they’re installed in the USA … I really don’t
know. Bottom line, I can not comment on the first crack that you’re
reporting to me. About the other two, however, there’s no doubt
in my mind: they’re 100% responsibility of the fabricator. The
leveling of the cabinet and the assurance of proper support should
be part of the installation job. At least here in the US they are.
What’s more important, all the weaker spots should have been
properly rodded – which I assume they didn’t do. If they
did, very possibly even the crack by the dishwasher would have not
occurred. The color of the stone has absolutely nothing to do with
its inherent fragility. Your particular stone – which is orthogneiss:
a far cry from granite, since it’s not even an igneous rock,
but a metamorphed sedimentary stone – is indeed more fragile.
All the more reason to make sure that all the weaker spots are properly
rodded, if you ask me. Maurizio, Expert Panelist |
| Q 8180:
Hi! I have saturnia marble throughout
my master bathroom. It looks beautiful, except for recently in the
shower area. The house is two years old and the build up and lack
of luster is setting in. I have been using a marble cleaner from Home
Depot. It works great on the floors but not in the shower area. The
saturnia had been sealed two years ago. But, as is typical in a shower,
the soap and water cause a film and pink buildup is frequently present.
I'm afraid to use a harsh cleanser. Can you tell me what would work
well for this situation? Thank you!! Amy in South Florida, Reply |
| R1:
Dear Amy: Define “marble cleaner” for me! A cleaner –
any cleaner – is not formulated to clean a certain type of material.
It is rather formulated to remove certain specific types of soil –
from whatever surface they’re sitting on. What makes them specialty
products is the fact that, while they are doing their job at removing
the specific type of soil they’re formulated to remove, they
will not chemically interact with the stone by damaging it, like most
regular household cleaner would. Maurizio, Expert Panelist |
| Q 8179:
hi, I spilled nail polish remover on
my granite countertops!!! how do I get it out!!! this is an emergency!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!Hannah,
Reply |
| R1:
Dear Hannah: I’d love to help you out, but I’m a little
puzzled here. Nail polish remover is not supposed to affect any stone
– let alone granite. In order for me to help you solve the problem
I need to know; 1. What kind of “granite’ do you have; 2.
What the area where you spilled the nail polish remover looks like;
3. Also – very important – find out with your fabricator
if the slab they used had been resined by the factory. Answer those
three questions for me and then we’ll take it from there. Maurizio,
Expert Panelist |
Q 8178:
We recently remodeled a small bathroom
and put in a vanity with a "granite" countertop (Verde Peacock).
The vanity was placed in the courner, with wall running against two
sides. About 4 months after installation, a crack has appeared. The
crack can be felt on the surface and runs across the corner, making
a kind of rounded bottom to a triangle with the two walls. The installer
says that only 4 things should cause cracks: 1)installation on an
uneven surface;2) someone standing or sitting on the top;3)a shifting
of the walls or floor; or 4) a natural flaww in the stone. He says
that the surface is not uneven because they secured a single piece
of plywood to the vanity before mounting the vanity top. Certainly
no one has sat or stood on the top. He also said that he can't imagine
with the age of the house that you would still have wall or floors
shifting. However, in our area (Flagstaff, AZ) shifting of even older
houses is common. My guess is that is what happened. In a proper installation
shouldn't some space have been left to allow for some shifting?
I don't want to be unreasonable, but I am upset that my countertop
is
cracked. What is the reasonable thing to be done to repair a countertop
in this situation? Also, is it reasonable for us to expect the installer
to "make it right? Or is it just our problem if the crack was
caused by our house "settling"?
Thanks so much for any advice you
can give us. The installer is a nice guy and we want to work things
out with him to everyone's satisfaction. Kelly in Arizona, Reply
|
| R1:
Dear Kelly: The shifting of the house?? I’ve never been in AZ,
but to crack granite the settling of the house should feel pretty
much as a No. 5 or 6 in the Richter scale! Therefore, since the installation
is solid and nobody sat on the top, what’s left is the possible
natural flaw in the stone. Hey, the installer said it! Now the question
is: what is he gonna do about it? If the stone was flawed, it is certainly
not your problem, is it? Thank you in advance, Maurizio, Expert Panelist
|
| Q 8177:
My father has just had very large area
of travertine put into the house which is being built , this will
have to have a builders clean up done as soon as the builders leave
, can you tell me how we clean and maintain the floor , the house
is right on the beach and he is worried about sand scratching the
floor , do we use impregnators or sealers , also can travertine be
vitrified with wire pads and a nilfisk B5110 , thanks. Reply |
R1:
Dear Darren: Since you’re talking about the Nilfisk system, I
assume that your fathers’ travertine floors are highly polished.
The last thing that you want to do to a polished travertine or marble
floor is the “vetrification” promoted by Nilfisk. It’s
a disgraceful way to “maintain” highly polished stone floors
that has been recently banned even by the “politically correct”
Marble Institute of America (MIA). The least immediate damage that
it will do to travertine is to destroy most of the filler applied
by the factory. More deeper structural damages will follow after that.
There are better and sound ways to maintain highly polished marble
floors. First off, that floor should be “detailed” before
any routine maintenance procedure is implemented to it. Second, you
do NOT want to apply an impregnating sealer to it. Polished travertine
is the densest calcite-based stone available and doesn’t absorb
a darn thing (including the impregnator!), contrary to the widespread
misconception that has is as a very porous stone. Maurizio, Expert
Panelist |
| Q 8176:
I am in the process of building a home.
We have decided on granite countertops for both the kitchen and master
bath. I have chosen Dakota Mahogany for the kitchen and now am reading
your input on that stone. The other possiblity we looked at is Autum
Wheat. Which one would you suggest? and would you use granite in the
master bath? Reply |
R1:
Dear Tami: Sure I would use granite in a bathroom!
As for the rest I hope you will understand the true meaning of what
I’m about to say. It appears to me that like most other inquirers
at this stage you seem mostly interested in the type of “granite”
and/or its physical characteristics. It’s human nature at work,
I reckon!:-) How about if I tell you that a certain stone is a good
choice and then you get a low-grade slab? Trust me: the human factor
is far more important than the stone itself and should be the only
true deciding factor!
In an industry that’s virtually unregulated, how good and reputable
the fabricator who’s is going to process the stone you’ll
end up choosing is far more important than the stone itself. None
of the horror stories that get posted in this very site stem from
the stone itself: they all stem from the fabricator. That is why I
seldom make final statements about any one particular stone. There
may be differences within the same stone (and I’m not talking
about looks, here!) from one bundle of slabs and the next. The slabs
may have also been either “doctored” (which is bad), or
“resined” (which could be good, but only to a certain extent)
by the factory, which would make a big difference. Even more important,
what’s a good stone in the hands of some “Michelangelo”?!
And again: a reputable fabricator will only carry high-grade slabs,
not some “special!” Maurizio, Expert Panelist |
| Q 8175:
We are about to remodel our kitchen
and we are trying to choose a black colored granite. We are looking
at a Black Angola Labrador from Spain or Cambrian Black. The Black
Angola seems to have larger grains and some mica in it. We are leaning
towards the Black Angola. Do you have any recommendations? Also, will
we need to seal it and what is the best maintenance for the countertop.
We appreciate your advice. Jane, Reply |
| R1:
Dear Jane: I hope you will understand the true meaning of what I’m
about to say. It appears to me that like most other inquirers at this
stage you seem mostly interested in the type of “granite”
and/or its physical characteristics. It’s human nature at work,
I reckon!:-) How about if I tell you that a certain stone is a good
choice and then you get a low-grade slab? Trust me: the human factor
is far more important than the stone itself and should be the only
true deciding factor!
In an industry that’s
virtually unregulated, how good and reputable the fabricator who’s
is going to process the stone you’ll end up choosing is far
more important than the stone itself. None of the horror stories
that get posted in this very site stem from the stone itself: they
all stem from the fabricator. That is why I seldom make final statements
about any one particular stone. There may be differences within
the same stone (and I’m not talking about looks, here!) from
one bundle of slabs and the next. The slabs may have also been either
“doctored” (which is bad), or “resined” (which
could be good, but only to a certain extent) by the factory, which
would make a big difference. Even more important, what’s a
good stone in the hands of some “Michelangelo”?! And again:
a reputable fabricator will only carry high-grade slabs, not some
“special!” Maurizio, Expert Panelist
|
| Q 8174:
Dear Sir or Madam, We have a grey mottled
french granite fireplace in our house in France. The surface has become
somewhat discoloured by smoke. Can you kindly tell me what is the
best way of cleaning the granite without risk of damaging the surface?
Yours truly, Ian Witts, Bussiere-Poitevine, France, Reply |
| R1:
Dear Ian: Warm water (3 parts) and household bleach (1 part); Rubber
gloves; A laundry brush; Plenty of patience and elbow grease! Ciao
and good luck, Maurizio, Expert Panelist |
| Q 8173:
Hi, We bought slate from Home Depot
- the product is from Emser. I do not know where it is imported from.
The slate is installed in our front entry way outside. It has rusted
very badly where water hits it. The rust has ran all over the concrete
side walk and looks terrible. From what I have read it seems as though
it was not sealed properly to prevent this from happening. Home Depot
does not know what to do. They came out and used an acid cleaner on
one tile. I went to Emser's web site and it said specifcally not to
use acid cleaner on slate. Can the rust be cleaned? Can the slate
be resealed? Or should I have them rip it up and replace it with something
else? Cheryl in Florida, Reply
|
| R1:
Dear Ceryl: You probably never read my 5,000 or so comments about
using slate in installations different than an indoor wall! At any
rate, the “new religion”, namely “the sealing cult”
would have done only one thing for you: make you feel good at the
thought that you helped the manufacturer of the sealer and their distributor
to put their kids through college. The news that the people at the
HD didn’t know what to do is nothing that’s going to shock
me. As for Elmer, they tell you not to use any acid cleaner, but they
won’t tell you how to solve your problem. Why? Because there’s
no solution, and they know it. They actually knew it even before you
bought their beautiful stuff! Hey, it’s only money! Ciao and
good luck, Maurizio, Expert Panelist |
Q 8172:
I am trying to educate myself about
granite. Our Rotary Club wants to put up a large granite welcome sign
(two actually) outside of town. I have designed a structure with a
fieldstone base and limestone edging around the top (of the base)
that will support a roughly 4 ft x 8 ft x 8" thick slab of granite
(see jpeg attached). Both sides of the granite will be polished and
the edge will be rock pitched. I wanted a light colored granite to
maximize visibility from the highway.
We have budgeted $4,000 for each piece of granite which eliminated
most types except Elberton gray. This would work, but I was told that
it absorbs moisture over time which will result in a water stain.
I thought that the polished surfaces might resist moisture. Here in
southwest Michigan we do get a lot of snow and small drifts would
accumulate from time to time along the base of the granite (on top
of the limestone).
Also, I was hoping to get a pink or tan colored granite, but they
seem to run +$2000 more.
Any suggestions or advise about the moisture issue and other inexpensive
granite types?. Thanks, Wes, Reply
|
| R1:
Dear Wes: It’s granite, all right! True geological granite, that
is, and a very good quality, too! I wouldn’t worry too much about
the absorption of moisture: stone is used to it! :-) The application
of an impregnating-sealer to the face of the stone wouldn’t make
any sense and wouldn’t be advisable, either. (Shoot! I lost another
sale!!) What I would do is brush some good-quality clear epoxy paint
on the rough edges of the sign. (I don’t sell that!!) Those are
the most porous areas and where most of the rain water and melting
will have a chance to go in deep and, from there, migrate to the surface
(face) of the stone, possibly (not necessarily) creating problems.
Epoxy paint is the most water-proof material that you can think of.
You may have to apply it once a year or so, considering the big differences
on temperature that you folks experience between summer and winter
in Michigan! It’s a good thing it’s Saturday and my marketing
guy is not in to read this reply!! :-) Maurizio, Expert Panelist |
| Q 8171:
Hi, I know that I am very uneducated
after reading the many ?s out there. I am looking to install a granite
counter top. After reading that many of the granite counter tops are
not actually granite I am not sure now how to know if it is a good
piece or not. Can you tell me the basics for making a informed choice?
Any thoughts would be appreciated. Jennifer Ramirez, Reply
|
| R1:
Dear Jennifer: The formula for a successful selection of a granite
kitchen countertop is quite simple: choose the man, not the stone!
I hope you will understand the true meaning of what I’m about
to say. It appears to me that like most other inquirers at this stage
you seem mostly interested in the type of “granite” and/or
its physical characteristics. It’s human nature at work, I reckon!:-)
How about if I tell you that a certain stone is a good choice and
then you get a low-grade slab? Trust me: the human factor is far more
important than the stone itself and should be the only true deciding
factor!
In an industry that’s
virtually unregulated, how good and reputable the fabricator who’s
is going to process the stone you’ll end up choosing is far
more important than the stone itself. None of the horror stories
that get posted in this very site stem from the stone itself: they
all stem from the fabricator. That is why I seldom make final statements
about any one particular stone. There may be differences within
the same stone (and I’m not talking about looks, here!) from
one bundle of slabs and the next. The slabs may have also been either
“doctored” (which is bad), or “resined” (which
could be good, but only to a certain extent) by the factory, which
would make a big difference. Even more important, what’s a
good stone in the hands of some “Michelangelo”?! And again:
a reputable fabricator will only carry high-grade slabs, not some
“special!” Maurizio, Expert Panelist
|
| Q 8170:
We had large 16/16" travertine
floor tiles installed in a room in our home 20/24.' The installer
then sealed the floor with something that was to deepen and enhance
the colors. The floor tile is lovely but the installation was poort.
We have 2 problems: 1) The sealer seems to be scratching off with
normal wear - you can see it is off in some places and not in others;
and 2) more significant is that the tiles were not set properly and
there is lipping in many spots in that one tile is slightly higher
or lower than its neighbor. The installer has offered to remove the
sealant and reseal it to address the first problem (this sounds acceptable
to me); he has also offered to use a piece of equipment to essentially
smooth the ridges in the floor. It sounds like he is going to use
a sort of buffing machine that works with water to do this. He says
that this technique is used in commercial applications to get very
smooth floors. Have you heard of this technique before? What are your
thoughts about it? Julia, Reply |
R1:
Dear Julia: It looks to me like you’ve got yourself a “Michelangelo”!
Going by you report the guy doesn’t have a clue about sealing
and, obviously, about grinding stone floors, either!
When you apply a stone color enhancer the most important phase of
the application is to make sure that none of the residue of the product
is left sitting on the surface of the stone. A color enhancer is a
penetrating, below-surface sealer, NOT a topical. Now the whole thing
must be stripped, which is certainly not an easy feat! You can’t
strip it with a wax stripper of sorts. Only a potent (and highly toxic)
paint stripper based on Methylene Chloride will do. And you don’t
want to be around when they use that stuff!!
Grinding a floor is a very common practice, but it takes a man, not
a boy! It’s the most demanding activity from a professional point
of view among any possible activity you can think of within the stone
trade! Not only do you need to have specialized equipment (much heavier
than a buffer), but, most importantly, you have to know what you’re
doing. I ought to know: I’ve been doing that for over 40 years
and I now teach classes internationally about that process.
In the case of travertine it will also involve the re-filling of the
holes that will inevitably get open during the first two aggressive
cuts. Bottom line: get rid of that idiot and get a professional stone
restoration contractor instead. It will cost you plenty, but, hey,
it’s only money! (Besides, “Michelangelo” should be
paying!)
Now, you’d better watch out! Like I mentioned before, I consider
stone grinding/refinishing as the very pinnacle of all the activities
related to stone from a professional point of view. Unfortunately,
there are a lot of quacks on the loose out there! And you’re
already had “Michelangelo” working on your floor. You don’t
need his brother now, do you?! How could you tell a champ from a chomp?
Could you trust the recommendation of your local stone distributor,
or contractor, or your interior decorator? Hardly! Maurizio, Expert
Panelist |
| Q 8169:
I am doing a complete bathroom remodel
and would like to use Ming Green marble on the vanity, backsplash
and in the shower. Any recommendations on what finish on the marble
will work best on the vanity and in the shower? I'm planning on a
basketweave mosaic for the backsplash. For the floor of the shower,
I am leaning towards a glazed porcelain tile with marble tile on the
walls - should I use tumbled? polished? What do you recommend for
a finish on the vanity (a 60" double bowl vanity) Thanks, laura,
Reply |
| R1:
Dear Laura: As a general recommendation, green marble has to be set
on 100% solid setting material (epoxy) to avoid possible warping and
efflorescence from using regular grey or white thin set. This general
rule holds particularly true with the particular marble you selected.
Other than that it will be quite an enjoyable stone is you will take
care of it properly. (And not butt-jointing!!) The finish is immaterial.
Polished or tumbled is strictly a matter of personal preferences.
If you choose tumbled, then you may want to consider applying a good-quality
stone color enhancer like my outlandish MB-6. If you choose polished,
a good-quality stone impregnator/sealer like my amazing MB-4 applied
to the shower walls and to the vanity will do instead. Considering
the size of the vanity top, I don’t understand the problem of
the choice of the finish. Assuming that you want to have it made out
of a slab, it can’t be had tumbled; therefore the issue wouldn’t
exist. If you’d go with tiles instead, then, like a said before,
it boils down to personal preference. Maurizio, Expert Panelist |
Q 8168:
I bought a new house which was just
built. The floor is limestone , and there are a lot of filler spots
with white grout..It looks great..However a lot of the filler spots
are beginning to crack…..any ideas what can be done… I spoke
to builder and he will refill spots but I don’t want this ongoing
and eventually happen to whole floor
Also , what kind of grout would you recommend to fill it..the floor
is limestone travestine Appreciate your comments, Reply |
| R1:
Dear Michael: Technically, although travertine has the same chemical
makeup of limestone, it is not limestone. Having said that, I don’t
understand why you have problems with the filler. Travertine is typically
filled in the factory, and unless you’ve got a lousy quality
factory workmanship tiles, filler should not crack or come off. (All
too many times, when you buy stone through a builder you don’t
get what you pay for: you rather get what the GC paid for!) Maurizio,
Expert Panelist |
| Q 8167:
I just had granite installed in my
kitchen – black absolute…I complained about the grout having
a white tinge instead of being black. The original contractor (joke)
tried to resolve it by using the black marking pen on the grout lines.
My designer then hired someone else who replaced all of the black
grout…however they showed me how shiny it was and told me to
put coke on it and watch how it didn’t hurt the counter….later
I found turtle wax in my garage – it appears that they “waxed”
my granite counter?!? I can’t imagine that this is good for it??
Also there is half of a tile which now has a very dull look to it….but
only on a portion of the tile? Reply |
| R1:
Dear Karen: We don’t want to draw conclusions about the Turtle
Wax thing just because you found a can of wax in your garage, do we?
Why don’t you ask the contractor who applied the new grout to
your countertop? As for the dull half tile, I wouldn’t know what
to say without actually seeing it. Try to clean it with a paint stripper
based on Methylene Chloride; if anything is sitting on it will come
off. Maurizio, Expert Panelist |
| Q 8166:
I have just had black granite tiles
laid in the guest bathroom. The grout has been redone 2xs and not
sealed yet as both times it has turned gray. this is unacceptable
to me. We live in Northridge, Calif. and am not certain about the
hardness of the water or if that even affects the grout. What about
using distilled water? Thanks in advance for your help. Take Care,
Janice, Reply |
R1:
Dear Janice: Let’s start by saying a couple of things:
There’s no such an animal like totally black grout. Once it cures
it turns dark gray.
There’s no need to seal grout in a powder room. If the sealer
gets to the granite it may create problems with not an easy solution.
If you want something real black, then you have to consider grouting
your floor with black caulk. It works great, and it is really black!
Now remember, it’s never too early to think about the proper
maintenance of your stone. The issue of what you’ll be doing
day in and day out to your stone is far more important than the sealing
itself and it’s all too often neglected. Maurizio, Expert Panelist
|
| Q 8165:
I recently had crema marvil honed marble
installed in my bathroom on the shower walls. When the light hits
a certain area it appears as though there are oil spots and they really
stand out. When you get close to the tile you can not see it, however,
when you stand back and the light reflects on it it is real obvious!
The shower has not been used yet but the markings are right in the
center of the wall and it is the first thing I see when the lights
are on. At first I thought it was grout haze which it is not. The
marble has been washed with mild soap (joy) and water nothing else.
How do I get rid of the marks or make them less obvious. Would a small
amount of shine restorer in that area help? When the stone is wet
the spot is not noticeable. Thank you any feedback would be appreciated.
Reply |
R1:
Dear Susie: It’s hard to tell indeed, without actually seeing
it. My first guess is that whatever they used to set the tiles with
is seeping through. (The material of choice should have been white
thin set.) It could also be that the setting material is not cured
completely; in that case those dark spot should disappear in a matter
of a couple of weeks or so. Give it time, and if nothing happens,
then it looks like the most practical remedy is to apply a good-quality
stone color enhancer to your tiles, like my outlandish MB-6. That
would give you in a permanent way the same look as if the tiles were
wet.
Maurizio, Expert Panelist |
| Q 8164:
We recently moved into a new house
in which we had desert wave (also known as vyara) granite installed
for kitchen countertops. A couple of weeks ago, we noticed a very
large area around the seam turning flouorescent green! We also noticed
a couple of spots around our cooktop and a couple of spots in the
shape of a bottlecap. We cannot figure out what the heck this is from!!
Our installer has never seen anything like this before! Now we are
wondering if our granite top was truly sealed and what the heck is
causing the green stains! Could it be due to the installation process?
How do you recommend removing these? Heidi Tempesta, Reply |
R1:
Dear Herdi: Without actually seeing your countertop it’s impossible
for me to venture any diagnosis. The first thing that comes to my
mind is the material they used to fill the seam, but I really wouldn’t
know.
What I do know is that the answer given to you by your fabricator
(they have never seen anything like that before) is not good enough.
The question is: what are they going to do about it? Maurizio, Expert
Panelist |
Q 8163:
If one were to choose a honed absolute
black granite countertop and had it treated by an expert with a "good
quality color enhancer," can one be happy with the results?
I have read many of the Q&As concerning honed black granite but
each one left open the question of whether it could work out well
if the advice is followed about the color enhancer. I want a black
color but I dont want the shiny polish look.
Also, are able to recommend anyone on Long Island in New York that
you would consider expert or experienced with providing customers
with honed black granite and leaving them happy? Reply |
| R1:
Dear Inquirer: Define happiness for me! :-) There are indeed different
opinions on the issue of sealing black hone granite, but there is
a unanimous consensus about the fact that it presents maintenance
issues.
The problem with honed
black granite is that it is not, well … black any more! Most
black stones are but an optical illusion: they become black only
when highly polished, or when wet. (See the back of your slab to
see the REAL color of your stone!) As you take gloss off the stone
surface (and honing does just that) you lose depth of color and
the stone turns gray; but when you wet it ... here it is black again!
As you spill oily liquids, or you simply touch the stone surface
with your fingers (perspiration), you're going to have all sorts
of dark surface stains that are a terrible eyesore. Please notice
that I said: SURFACE stains, not imbedded stains. In fact, you can
clean those stains off (though with lots of labor), while if they
were imbedded you would have to poultice them out. If you apply
an impregnator/sealer in the stone you will not solve your problem
one bit: in fact the sealer will only prevent liquids from being
absorbed by the stone (which in the case of black honed granite
is an unlikely event to begin with), not the staining of its surface.
Any solution? well, yes: you have to give up the gray! Maurizio,
Expert Panelist
|
Q 8162:
Hi! We just had a "Pewter Granite"
from EXPO installed in our Master
bathroom as a vanity top. After looking over this site, I'm worried
that it is the "black granite" you mention as a nightmare
to maintain. Is it truly black or is it a dark gray honed "granite"
(I also assume it's not real granite since you mention that's fairly
common too) - should we go ahead and seal it? We also used a limestone
from Tennessee called "Southern Pearl" for the floor and
shower in our master bath - was this a mistake? should we seal it?
how do we care for both? thank you!! Reply |
| R1:
Dear Inquirer: “Pewter Granite”??? It must be a fancy name
that the EXPO or their fabricator gave to that stone – whatever
that is. “Souther Pearl”??? Ditto. Having no idea what kind
of stones you have, I wouldn’t know what to tell you. Sorry.
Limestone is usually a very bad choice for a shower enclosure, but
there are exceptions. Maurizio, Expert Panelist |
| Q 8161:
I have kitchen counters in Juparana
Rosso. It is very difficult to find this material. Does it go by alternate
names? It has a lot of movement, peach quartz color mixed with charcoal/black
swirls and speckles. It has a much higher percentage of red to gray
than Juparana Colombo. There is no yellow or brown in it. Thanks.
Cindy, USA, Reply |
R1:
Dear Cindy: Quite honestly I never heard of that stone – at least
not under that name. There are probably a few hundreds Juparanas (whatever
that means) out there. I lost the count of them, nor do I care to
keep up with it! :-)
As for telling me the color, I’m bad news: I’m 25% colorblind!
Regardless, even if I did know that stone I wouldn’t have any
idea if there’s availability and where. Maurizio, Expert Panelist
|
| Q 8160:
We have selected Madera Gold for our
kitchen counter tops. Are there any concerns with this selection and
will it hold up well in the kitchen. How often should it be sealed
and with what. Also we were thinking of doing the preparation of the
counter tops ourselves. We are going to use a porcelain under mount
sink and support the two counter tops that are 16 inches deep with
L shaped metal brackets that are 12 inches long leaving 6 inches of
counter top with no support. If needed we can reduce the depth of
the counter tops to 14 inches. Are there any suggestions that you
can give us to avoid the most common pitfalls? We also have polished
Travertine in the entry way and porcelain tiles in the kitchen, the
Travertine and all grout has been sealed. What is the best method
of cleaning these surfaces to keep both the tile and grout looking
its best for years to come? Thanks, Mike, Reply
|
| R1:
Dear Mike: Madera Gold is an absorbent stone and does require to be
sealed. How often? It all depends on the make of the sealer. Some
will need to be applied once a year or so, and some other will be
good for much longer. For instance, my outlandish MB-4 can easily
go 10 years before it needs to be applied again! (It comes with a
10-year warranty.)
The major problem
with your stone is that’s very difficult finding good-grade
slabs. So, I hope that you will be dealing with a reputable fabricator
that’s much more important than the stone itself.
As for your travertine
floor it needed to be sealed like you need a hole in your head!
I sincerely hope that you removed every residue of the stuff you
applied from the stone surface (which is just about the whole stupid
thing!!) :-)
All in all, you have
to understand that what you’ll be doing every day to your stone
is way more important than the sealing issue. Maurizio, Expert Panelist
|
| Q 8159:
Hello: we just had a granite Emerald
Pearl kitchen counter top installed, we noticed that the counter top
is not level and that one side of the counter is not supported (a
1/4 inch gap exists between the bottom of the counter to and the supporting
plywood). Our concern is that this is going to crack eventually. What
are the risks of this and now that the granite is already in place,
what can we do about it. Reply |
| R1:
Dear Bruce: What you’re reporting to me should concern you very
much. You’re asking me what you can do about it. It’s quite
simple: call your installer back and have then finish the job they’ve
been paid for. Maurizio, Expert Panelist |
| Q 8158:
we installed marble in our bathroom.
We have a floor that is such a mess with water drop stains, even foot
prints, that seem to be permanetly in the stone. I am upset and feel
the contractor needed to tell us about sealing the stone. Is there
any way we can repair this floor. Now I keep rugs down as it looks
as if I don't clean the floor. I have only wiped it with a damp cloth.
thanks, Dolores, Reply |
| R1:
Dear Dolores: The “water stains” you have are not stains
at all and they were certainly not generated by water. What’s
more, even if you had sealed your marble, you would have just as many
“stains” as you have now. Those are all etch-marks created
by pH active liquids that became in contact with your marble. You’re
only option is to hire a professional stone refinisher that will have
to slightly re-ground (hone) and re-polish your marble floor. Now,
you’d better watch out! I consider stone refinishing as the very
pinnacle of all the activities related to stone from a professional
point of view. Unfortunately, there are a lot of quacks on the loose
out there! How could you tell a champ from a chomp? Could you trust
the recommendation of your local stone distributor, or contractor,
or your interior decorator? Hardly! Maurizio, Expert Panelist
|
| Q 8157:
I am at my wits end! I just had new
porcelain tile laid over an old terrazzo floor. The installer used
a 'bonding' agent, but did not clean or strip the terrazzo first.
I have dark oily stains showing in my grout lines in various places
throughout my entire 1800 sq ft new floor! He used Jamo antique white
grout. I waited 2-3 days to seal the floors and did so with Tile lab
penetrating sealer and a foam brush. The installer and the tile supplier
said they have no idea what is going on. I removed the grout from
the dark areas and the installer put fresh grout in the areas. Yep.
You guessed it. The stains are back. Any clue what is going on and
how to remedy this mess? Thank you, Lori, Reply |
| R1:
Dear Lori: The installaer and the tile supplier (who made money out
of you) have no idea what is going on. The manufacturer (which is
a competitor of mine) and the distributor of the sealer you bought
don’t have a clue, either. (Did you actually apply an impregnating
sealer to a porcelain floor???? Boy, the “sealing cult”
is really getting’ deeper and deeper!!!:-).) And now you come
to me – who made not a single cent out of you – for free
advice. Mmm … I think I’ll pass, thank you. Maurizio, Expert
Panelist |
| Q 8156:
We purchased Verde Ubatuba granite
counter tops for our kitchen and would you please advise me. Do we
or do we not seal? If we do need to seal, which of your products do
you recommend? We also purchased a Jenn-Air downdraft cook top with
the capabilities to broil (as in BBQ) using the cooktop. I don’t
know if this makes any difference. Please advise. Ringraziares, Josephine,
Reply |
| R1:
Dear Joann: 1)Wrong: those imperfections are NOT indigenous to the
stone (especially Ubatuba); they’re indigenous to a low-grade
slab. 2) Your “Michelangelo” screw up the surface of the
stone when finishing the edges of the under mount sink-hole and now
he doesn’t know how to re-polish it. Only a proven stone restoration
refinisher could accomplish that for you. Maurizio, Expert Panelist |
| Q 8155:
In a reflex moment, I put a burning
pot on my neighbors brand NEW granite countertop and now there's a
ring. HELP. Is there any way to fix it? Reply |
| R1:
Dear Rachel: Oh boy!...
Let’;s hope for the best. Granite should not do that. In other
words, you should be able to put a hot pot onto a granite countertop
with no consequences. What to do now? Well, I need more information
if there’s a chance that I could help you out. What does that
ring look like: darker than the rest of the stone? Shiner (like a
metallic ring)? Or somehow rougher? How long did you leave that pot
sitting on the countertop? Answer those questions for me and then
we’ll take it from there. Maurizio, Expert Panelist |
| Q 8154:
I have several 24 by 20 marble tiles
and would like help with how to cut them to make a counter top for
my kitchen. They are about ¾’ thick. I know I need a wet
saw To cut them and asked at home depot what to do? They tried to
sell me a $88 saw I really don’t think this is the saw for a
D I Y er ! What saw should I use? Can you give me any tips on this
project ? I’m a novice at cutting stone at best ! Help ! thanks
in advance. Reply |
| R1:
Dear Donna: Stop worrying about the type of saw to use. You do NOT
want marble as a kitchen countertop! Maurizio, Expert Panelist |
| Q 8153:
Hi,I have slate floor throughout the
fmain floor in my house. It was installed 7 years ago and is now looking
pretty roughed up. There's scratches from the sofa legs and water
stains where my fridge is. I'm not sure what type of sealer was originally
put on it, I think it could have been just a colour enhancer. I want
to restrip this floor and make it look really shiny. What and where
do I find a stripper and what product would give it a glossy look
and make this floor easier to maintain. I find that food sticks to
this floor that you literally have to chizle it off if you don't clean
it up fast enough. K. Rizzuto, Reply
|
R1:
Dear K. Rizzuto: “what product would give it a glossy look and
make this floor easier to maintain.” Well, there’s no harm
in dreaming!
Scratches can’t be fixed on slate. “Water stains” (acid
etching that is) can’t be repaired on slate, either. Stripping
the color enhancer is impossible. (It’s below the surface of
the stone.) Applying shiny hard-shell coatings (poly-urethane like)
to slate is the trading of a big problem for a bigger one. Slate does
not belong on floors. End of the debate. But hey, it’s only money!
:-)Maurizio, Expert Panelist |
| Q 8152:
Dear Maurizio, I really enjoy your
replies at findstone - they are both funny and informative. I have
two sawn granites - lots of quartz, pink/orange feldspar and black
in one and mostly quartz and mahogany in the other - both look sharp
polished. In some projects I look for a more rustic finish and when
split they look great. I would like to incorporate sawn pieces - but
without polishing or honing - What do you think of using a linseed
based solution to enhance the appearance to bring out the colours?
Do you think a colour enhancer would work on a sawn surface? kind
regards, AML, Reply
|
| R1: Dear
AML: Boiled Linseed Oil is a natural color enhancer. Color enhancers
for stone are synthetic products instead. The latter are much more
expensive, but due to the fact that they are synthetic won’t
yellow over time like linseed oil will. Both products would work,
but, most likely, you will need more applications of a stone color
enhancer over linseed oil, since typically those products (like my
outlandish MB-6) are designed to be thinner. Maurizio, Expert Panelist |
| Q 8151:
what is the best sealer for AB honed
granite. also what about every day care. I normally use 409 to wipe
counters clean after cooking...what about now? Thanks for your advice!!!
mara, Reply |
R1:
Dear Mara: There are indeed different opinions on the issue of sealing
black hone granite, but there is a unanimous consensus about the fact
that it presents maintenance issues.
The problem with honed black granite is that it is not, well …
black any more! Most black stones are but an optical illusion: they
become black only when highly polished, or when wet. (See the back
of your slab to see the REAL color of your stone!) As you take gloss
off the stone surface (and honing does just that) you lose depth of
color and the stone turns gray; but when you wet it ... here it is
black again! As you spill oily liquids, or you simply touch the stone
surface with your fingers (perspiration), you're going to have all
sorts of dark surface stains that are a terrible eyesore. Please notice
that I said: SURFACE stains, not imbedded stains. In fact, you can
clean those stains off (though with lots of labor), while if they
were imbedded you would have to poultice them out. If you apply an
impregnator/sealer in the stone you will not solve your problem one
bit: in fact the sealer will only prevent liquids from being absorbed
by the stone (which in the case of black honed granite is an unlikely
event to begin with), not the staining of its surface. Any solution?
Well, yes: you have to give up the gray! Maurizio, Expert Panelist |
| Q 8150:
Hi I just had a granite countertop
installed and didn't check on the high maintenance on it. IT beautiful
countertop but I'm finding out that I have to clean as soon as possible
and I bought something from homedepot and to clean but not sure how
safe it is for clean spoons or forks laying on it after being sprayed
with this cleaner. the bottle says it for everyday usage. Plus I cannot
used a chopping block on it ?? This is important because I or my mom
chop alot of food preparation is it OK to use a chopping block on
top of this counter and can I put my toaster on this area and coffee
pot without fear of out damaged???? Lillie, Reply |
R1:
Dear Lillie: Let me get this straight: first off, you’ve got
this misconception that granite is a high-maintenance item. After
that you bought a cleaning product from the competition that for some
reason you don’t trust, and then you come to me for free advice.
Mmm … Something is bothering me a little bit! :)
Why don’t you call the manufacturer of the product you bought
and ask them? It’s only fair don’t you think? They got your
money, they’ll be glad to help you out. Maurizio, Expert Panelist |
Q 8149:
We just installed granite countertops
into our kitchen. The granite is `Madura Gold` ....can you tell me
if this is considered a fast absorbant granite and would it require
a sealer. A little late now, but the granite counters have indeed
been treated with a sealer of some sort. We have only had the counters
in for just over a week (and they were beautiful) but we recently
noticed two oil stains left from an olive oil bottle and dispenser.
I think I know your reponse....it needs to be treated with home-made
poultice. If we treat the area, I gather it will destroy any sealant
we have on the stone. Is it possible to replace the sealant only in
this small area..as they rest of the counters are fine and are essentially
brand new.
Thanks for your help. Erin, Reply |
R1:
Dear Erin: Obviously your countertop was not sealed properly. Therefore
I don’t understand your concern of wanting to seal only the small
areas where you will be poulticing out the stains. What is it: you
don’t care if you’re going to stain your stone somewhere
else?! :-)
Once you remove the stains, the whole thing will need to be thoroughly
sealed with a good-quality stone impregnator like my outlandish MB-4.
Maurizio, Expert Panelist |
| Q 8148:
I have a countertop in a bar that is
called PERSIA WHITE. So far ( 1 year) it seems to be holding up well
- sealed. I am thinking of re-doing my kitchen countertops and want
to know if this granite would be suitable. I'm like others that don't
want to be a slave to the maintenance. Thank you Judy Schuman, Reply |
R1:
Dear Judy: Allow me to give me the list of my favorite granites:
A reputable fabricator – end of the list!
I hope you will understand the true meaning of what I’m about
to say. It appears to me that like most other inquirers at this stage
you seem mostly interested in the type of “granite” and/or
its physical characteristics. It’s human nature at work, I reckon!:-)
How about if I tell you that a certain stone is a good choice and
then you get a low-grade slab? Trust me: the human factor is far more
important than the stone itself and should be the only true deciding
factor!
In an industry that’s virtually unregulated, how good and reputable
the fabricator who’s is going to process the stone you’ll
end up choosing is far more important than the stone itself. None
of the horror stories that get posted in this very site stem from
the stone itself: they all stem from the fabricator. That is why I
seldom make final statements about any one particular stone. There
may be differences within the same stone (and I’m not talking
about looks, here!) from one bundle of slabs and the next. The slabs
may have also been either “doctored” (which is bad), or
“resined” (which could be good, but only to a certain extent)
by the factory, which would make a big difference. Even more important,
what’s a good stone in the hands of some “Michelangelo”?!
And again: a reputable fabricator will only carry high-grade slabs,
not some “special! Maurizio, Expert Panelist |
| Q 8147:
Hi, About a year ago I had a granite
countertop installed - New venetian gold. I have a green stain from
food coloring. At first it was very dark. I used different household
cleaners to try and remove the stain. It has gotten a lot lighter
however it is still noticeable. What can you recommend at this point
to remove the stain. Thanks! Mark, Reply |
| R1:
Dear Mark: Let’s just hope that all the household cleaners you
used didn’t make the residue of the stain permanent. When it
comes to stain removal, either you buy one of those expensive “Professional
kits” (that no true professional ever uses!) at a stone retailer
near you, or you can spend less money and get my comprehensive guidelines
on how to remove stains by using inexpensive and far more effective
means that you may already have in your household! Such impressive
piece of literature will also tell you how to tell stains apart from
“stains”, and what to do about the latter! Maurizio, Expert
Panelist |
| Q 8146:
I understand that you advise against
using honed black granite as a kitchen countertop. Are there any kinds
or colors of granite that you think would be OK to use as a kitchen
countertop? I am considering ordering a honed butterfly green granite
slab for a countertop. Thanks in advance for your advise, Shara, Reply |
R1:
Dear Shara: The following answer I have for honed black granite applies
for any dark-colored stone.
There are indeed different opinions on the issue of sealing black
hone granite, but there is a unanimous consensus about the fact that
it presents maintenance issues.
The problem with honed black granite is that it is not, well …
black any more! Most black stones are but an optical illusion: they
become black only when highly polished, or when wet. (See the back
of your slab to see the REAL color of your stone!) As you take gloss
off the stone surface (and honing does just that) you lose depth of
color and the stone turns gray; but when you wet it ... here it is
black again! As you spill oily liquids, or you simply touch the stone
surface with your fingers (perspiration), you're going to have all
sorts of dark surface stains that are a terrible eyesore. Please notice
that I said: SURFACE stains, not imbedded stains. In fact, you can
clean those stains off (though with lots of labor), while if they
were imbedded you would have to poultice them out. If you apply an
impregnator/sealer in the stone you will not solve your problem one
bit: in fact the sealer will only prevent liquids from being absorbed
by the stone (which in the case of black honed granite is an unlikely
event to begin with), not the staining of its surface.
Any solution?
Well, yes: you have to give up the gray! If you apply a good-quality
stone color enhancer to your countertop (such as our MB-6, which is
also an impregnator/sealer). Maurizio, Expert Panelist |
| Q 8145:
I had my travertine floors cleaned
& polished recently and to make a long story short they used a
lacquer finish. My floors look awful with scratches everywhere in
the lacquer. I can buff them out but then the finish looks uneven.
I would like to remove the lacquer completely and use something else
to polish and seal the floor. Can I use acetone to remove the lacquer?
or will it irrepairably damage the travertine? Reply |
R1:
Dear Cindy: I had my travertine floors cleaned & polished recently
and to make a long story short they used a lacquer finish.” No
comment!!! :-) Acetone will not damage the travertine, but it won’t
remove the lacquer, either. If you want to purse the chemical approach
you will need a paint stripper based on highly toxic Methylene Chloride.
Trust me, you don’t want to be around when you use that stuff!!
The best way to go is to hire a bona fide stone restoration contractor
who will proceed to grind, re-fill, hone and polish your floor. Now,
you’d better watch out! I consider stone refinishing as the very
pinnacle of all the activities related to stone from a professional
point of view. Unfortunately, there are a lot of quacks on the loose
out there and you already had your “Michelangelo” working
on your floor! How could you tell a champ from a chomp? Could you
trust the recommendation of your local stone distributor, or contractor,
or your interior decorator? Hardly! Maurizio, Expert Panelist
|
| Q 8144:
I have inherited an antique (cir. 1890)
oak Eastlake-style dresser that has the original reddish-brown marble
top with small white/cream colored flecks in it. I have heard this
type of marble referred to as "sausage" marble. The finish
of the marble is fairly dull, and there is some shallow pitting of
the marble in one area (about a 2"x6"). Two questions: 1)
does anyone know if the original finish would have been polished,
or should have been more natural; and 2) should I try to fill the
pitted area (and how should that be done), or should I simply leave
it alone. I appreciate any help... Thanks-- Liz, Reply |
R1:
Dear Liz: I’ve heard plenty of whoppers in my day, but in all
my over 40 years of professional life dealing with marble at international
level every single day, I never heard of such a thing like “sausage”
marble!! What is it, an Italian sausage, a Polish sausage, or what?
And how do you cook it??!! :-)
Unable to understand the first thing about the type of marble that
you have, I encourage you to consult with a stone restoration professional
to determine your options and a possible course of action. Maurizio,
Expert Panelist |
| Q 8143:
Based on what appears to be a "good"
price from a granite dealer in our area, we planned on going with
St. Cecilia Granite, however, after reading some of the questions
and answers on your website, I'm wondering if we are getting "taken"
on this granite. We have never had granite, but love the look. We
didn't think we could afford it, but this guy gave us a good price
on the St. Cecilia and we like the look. From what I gather, it isn't
really granite and is extremely porous. Should we talk to our guy
and see if we can get something else for the same price or do you
think we'll be ok with this granite? Help! We are building a new house
and don't want to make a bad decision on this. Thanks! Kim Crumbliss,
Reply |
| R1:
Dear Kim: You may find an unscrupulous merchant that will try to sell
you a $5 stone for $10, but – mark my words – you will never
find a merchant that will try to sell you a $10 stone for $5!
The major problem
with Santa Cecilia “granite” is that’s extremely
difficult to find good-grade slabs and nobody will ever give you
a “special price” on those! The “special” ones
are typically heavily doctored and will soon show pits and lose
grit.
Having said that,
let me give you a list of my favorite granites:
The fabricator –
end of the list!
I hope you will understand
the true meaning of what I’m about to say. It appears to me
that like most other inquirers at this stage you seem mostly interested
in the type of “granite” and/or its physical characteristics.
It’s human nature at work, I reckon!:-) How about if I tell
you that a certain stone is a good choice and then you get a low-grade
slab? Trust me: the human factor is far more important than the
stone itself and should be the only true deciding factor!
In an industry that’s
virtually unregulated, how good and reputable the fabricator who’s
is going to process the stone you’ll end up choosing is far
more important than the stone itself. None of the horror stories
that get posted in this very site stem from the stone: they all
stem from the fabricator. That is why I seldom make final statements
about any one particular stone. There may be differences within
the same stone (and I’m not talking about looks, here!) from
one bundle of slabs and the next. The slabs may have also been either
“doctored” (which is bad), or “resined” (which
could be good, but only to a certain extent) by the factory, which
would make a big difference. Even more important, what’s a
good stone in the hands of some “Michelangelo”?! And again:
a reputable fabricator will only carry high-grade slabs, not some
“special!” Maurizio, Expert Panelist
|
| Q 8142:
Hi, We are putting slate in the family
room. It is half installed by my handy husband. We got slate that
I now know, because of your site, was dumped on the US market and
is probably the cheap Asian stuff. My question is what do I was it
with before I seal it before grouting? Thanks. Catherine Gadomski,
Reply
|
| R1:
Dear Catherine: There’s not much of any advice that I can give
to you. You will have huge maintenance issues with that floor, no
matter what you clean it with, what you seal it with, and what divinity
you will worship to help you out. End of story. Do NOT add insult
to the hurt by pre-sealing the tiles before grouting. That is one
of the most stupid widespread misconceptions I have ever got to witness
in my professional life; and – believe you me – I have witnessed
lots of stupid things!! Maurizio, Expert Panelist |
| Q 8141: I
have a sunroom with a new travertine tile installation. The floor
was sealed 3x with a penetrating sealer (Pro Stone, Grout & Tile
Sealer) by C-Cure. What products can you recommend to put some shine
onto the floor? The installer recommended that I apply clear acrylic.
However, since we have a hot top in this area, I wanted to make sure
that the floor does not become slippery. How can I clean the floor
and what cleaning products should I use? Thanks. Traudy, Reply |
| R1:
Dear Traudy: I must assume that your travertine is honed and filled.
If that’s the case, and you would like it shiny, why didn’t
you buy it polished in the first place? You do NOT want to apply any
acrylic finish on top of your travertine!! If you like it better shiny,
hire a bona fide stone refinisher to professionally polish it with
a polishing powder for marble. The process will not make the surface
of the stone any more slippery than it is now, but possible “water
stains” (acid etches, that is) would be more noticeable. Maurizio,
Expert Panelist |
| Q 8140: I
am remodeling a condo in Maui, and wanted to put travertine on the
counters. However, I will be renting it out, and am concerned about
stains, scratches. I was fully convinced it was what I wanted, but
now am thinking granite might be the better way to go. Does it really
stain (red wine, oils), or scratch? Vacationers will not be taking
care of it like I will. Thanks, Teri, Reply |
| R1:
Dear Teri: If it’s for renters, you do NOT want travertine in
your countertop. Granite is the way to go. Maurizio, Expert PanelistMaurizio,
Expert Panelist |
|
